Capitol Reef National Park is a sparsely populated Utah stunner

This park is the unsung hero of Utah’s justifiably popular national parks system. While Zion and Bryce several hours to the west bear the brunt of visitor travel, and Arches is photographed everywhere and well known, Capitol Reef often gathers blank stares, or the misconception that is must be underwater somewhere.

My kids ranked Capitol Reefs empty roads and quiet trails one of their favorites on a recent Utah trip. Your family will enjoy it too, including the luxury of just-out-of-the-park lodging in the small town of Torrey, eight miles west with motels that are family run, reasonably priced and friendly. There’s an annual Cowboy Music and Poetry Festival held in Torrey; but it’s pleasant tree-shaded streets and several eclectic cafes are a draw any time of year. Many of its motels have swimming pools perfect for a summer dip.

The park is named for its dome-shaped rock formations which resemble a reef. In those rocks you can read the virtual creation of the American continent in sedimentary multi-colored stone. One hundred miles long, the Waterpocket Fold is filled with stone buttes and soaring cliffs, and will bring the major oohs and ahhs out in your family. It was the simple pleasure of picking apples from an orchard planted in the 19th century but still viable that was perhaps our favorite moment. Alone in the quiet orchard at twilight we could imagine ourselves part of the pioneer party that founded the small ranching community of Fruita, now within the park. There are over twenty five hundred trees here, and there’s something wonderful about being able to run along the rows of fruit trees with abandon, looking up at the towering rock monoliths and crags surrounding this spot. A bit of man and a lot of nature.

The rock formations are truly stunning, combining the red rocks of parts of Canyonlands and Arches to the east with the sheer cliffs and soaring monoliths of Zion. One such formation looks like the U.S. Capitol building, which is how the park got its name.

Native American inhabitants once called this land “the sleeping rainbow,” due to the varying hues of sandstone and sedimentary stone that rises up from riverbanks and desert, and it’s particularly stunning at sunset near the enormous Chimney Rock just off Highway 24. Another site to see in the park is the Hickman Bridge, a natural rock arch that reaches skyward over a hundred feet.

The natural arch of Hickman bridge

We were quite moved by the legacy of the people who passed through this landscape. The Fremont Petroglyphs which are easily visible from the Hickman Bridge Trail were created by the Fremont tribes people over a thousand years ago. More recent inhabitants left their marks on the rocks as well. Early Mormon pioneers carved their names in sandstone. Their legacy is called the Pioneer Register.

Nearby we explored the Behunin Cabin, built by a settler in the 19th century out of red sandstone. It was designed to fit seamlessly into the landscape. Early ecological thinking, my son remarked. The cabin is easily spotted just off Highway 24. A short walk will lead you to Gifford Farmhouse. This historic farm was built a bit later, in 1908., and affords a fascinating look at a the accouterments of a working farm.

We explored two major trails in the park. The Hickman Bridge Trail’s view of the natural arch bridge and nearby petroglyphs is a must do. It is two miles round trip and just east of the main visitor center. A trail brochure that you can pick up at the trail head lists things to observe along the trail. We enjoyed siting an indian granary as well as a small arch named Nels Johnson Bridge.

We also took a section of the Chimney Rock Loop Trail. At three and a half miles, it was the elevation rise at the beginning of the walk that kept us from going further, if your children are older, it’s a relatively easy walk and offers full sweeping views of the Waterpocket Fold region.

Just driving through the park on the twenty five mile long scenic drive that starts near the visitors center is rewarding. With an orchard stop at Fruita and several well grade dirt spur roads on which to diverge, you can see much of the park from your vehicle making scenic stops for photos and leg stretching along the way.

I took a Toyota Camry easily down one spur road, Grand Wash Road. It’s just a mile and it leads directly to the Cassidy Arch. Take a two and a half mile drive down the equally well maintained Capitol Gorge Road to reach the easy mile long Capitol Gorge Trail, that takes you to the site of the Pioneer Register, where Mormon settlers created their unique and touching legacy on the sandstone.

Car trips are never dull traversing the state of Utah.

One of my favorite states to explore is Utah. My family and I have taken many trips around the state, from the red arches of Arches National Park, the stunning canyons of the aptly named Canyonlands, Salt Lake City, Park City, well, the list goes on. Driving distances collapse when they’re broken up by one stunning vista after another, and you’ll find them throughout the state.

For a long weekend, you can’t beat heading to Utah, and from the Los Angeles area, you can get to its edge in just about six hours. This is one of our favorite and closest Utah sojourns – to Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon, and Escalante National Monument. You can stay car centric and see a great deal of scenery and get a lot of enjoyment with short, child friendly walks; or settle on one spot and explore all that nature has to offer at easily reachable overlooks and simple trails.

The pleasures of reaching the park starts just outside of the traffic sprawl that is Las Vegas. Red cliffs and the muddy Virgin River below them replace the billboards and empty desert with a head spinning suddeness and we know we’re getting close. We always make a stop at the first lookout point, and small children firmly in hand, toss a few random rocks down into the river gorge.

We like to stay outside the park in Springdale, at the Desert Pearl. Pool and hot tub, check. Rustic but contemporary furnishing, balconies, views of the hills and the Virgin River up close. A big treat: the bathroom floors are heated.

A sleek room at the Desert Pearl, Springdale, UT

Moving into Zion, in high season, spring through fall, you need to decamp from the car and take the park shuttle, which is free, and designed to reduce congestion in the park’s main area. If you circle through this area on your way to Bryce Canyon or other area attractions, you can stay in your car and see some overviews and overlooks on the perimeter of the park.

And what a park it is from any angle – whether you’re hopping off the shuttle for a close look and a short loop trail that allows you to snap photos of the Virgin River gorge, wading through the river itself in the summer, or loping across a green valley that leads to one of the parks lodges, and an excellent place to relax and enjoy the view from the outside tables at the lodge restaurant.

Millions of years of sedimentary deposits created these rock walls and palaces, through layering, erosion and time. Vertical red and white rock, the curving river, these stunning vistas form the core of the park for simple hikes, longer trails, river wading, or photography pit stops – your choice to experience.

Zion is wonderfully accessible – trails, river walks, and just perfect views wherever you stop.

We were there in the summer, and carefully donning rubber beach shoes, we waded through the cool river along with many other groups and families. With the towering, multi-colored rock walls on either side, the clear water splashing over colored stones, the sky an indomitable blue above, this simple trek is a must-do for families who enjoy getting a little wet.

Driving on from Zion, the next stop is Bryce – not far away, but a world of different shaped rock figures and forms that create a fairy tale of frozen figures and spires and hoodoos, particularly potent at sunset. A steep but easy path flows down through the rock sculptures, which bring to mind everything from elves and trolls frozen in time to distorted church spires. The path is easy I should say going down, coming back up – you’ll be carrying the smallest travelers.

While Bryce Canyon Lodge lacks the amenities of the Desert Pearl in Springdale, with small rooms and dated furnishings, it has the enormous advantage of being perched right over this trail to the heart of Bryce’s most popular rock formations. It’s hard to resist being able to take strolls here early in the morning and at sunset. If you travel in the winter, you’ll thrill to see these astonishing rock shapes dotted with snow. In the winter, although the Park Service salts the path, it can still be slippery after a snowfall, so approach with caution.

What child wouldn’t be captivated by these fairy land rock forms?

Bryce and Zion draw the most visitors each year of any Utah national park, but there’s so much more to see in the state, even staying within a long weekend’s driving radius. Just a few hours outside of Bryce, you’ll find the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument; with layered rose and rust and orange colored rock faces that can take your breath away, even as observed through a car window.

This is one of our favorite drives. Without any specific destination or landmark, you can stop at countless overlooks, viewing other worldly scenery with the same ease that you can spot a gas station from a freeway.

Add a day to your journey and you’ll come to Capitol Reef National Park, which unlike Bryce and Zion, boasts so few visitors that as you drive up to caves and cliffs and along easy to navigate and well graded dirt roads through the canyons, you’ll feel practically alone in nature. You’ll find petroglyphs and the farms of early settlers, and their improbably laden and well tended fruit trees, too.

Waterpocket Fold, arguably the most famous sight in the park is a monocline, or a sedimentary rock fold that sweeps upward, exposed in all its glory by the forces of erosion, ocher, white, and deep red-brown streaks look especially amazing at sunset.

Driving Highway 12 on Utah’s Grand Circle tour will lead you past many awesome sights like these

Circling the southwest’s national park corridor from the edges of Arizona and Nevada throughout Southern Utah is one of my favorite trips. Some travel sites will recommend you take up to twenty-one days for this itinerary, and some of you reading this will think that it’s too much to see and do in such a short time, and especially with small children. But trust me, it isn’t.

It’s jam packed, it’s colorful, it’s fun, but the only thing crazy about the trip is how wonderful it is for such little effort.

Fly into Las Vegas or drive from Vegas or Los Angeles – but the trip itself doesn’t truly begin until you reach St. George, Utah, a few hours from Las Vegas up I-15.

There you’ll find the St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site. Your children will be fascinated by the fossilized dinosaur prints – some two thousand in fact, and it will keep everyone from being restive as you drive another ninety minutes or so into park number one, Zion National Park. If you’ve come spring through fall, you’ll park at the park entrance and jump on the free shuttle that plies the full length of the park. You can hop on and off at short stops for photo overlooks, at the park lodge for lunch, or stay on the bus and just stare out the window. There are several child-accessible trails worth taking too, which will lead to a full day of pleasant adventure. The super gentle Riverside Walk traverses the Virgin River and passes beneath a hanging garden. Wading up the river itself when the water flow is low, is also highly recommended, but be sure you’re wearing rubber sandals or water shoes as the bottom is rocky. Steep red cliffs on either side of you, pleasantly cool water under foot – awesome afternoon. Recommended overnight accommodations: any number of comfortable motels in adjoining Springdale. We spent two nights here.

Arches and cliffs and rivers and views oh my!

It’s only two hours from Zion to the hoodoos and mysterious red rock formations of park number two, Bryce Canyon. The aptly named Bryce Amphitheater offers a wonderfully easy walk around the rim for a view at all the wonders below, or traverse the paved path down into the Queen’s Garden Trail for an up close look at the vibrantly colored and surreally shaped rock hoodoos. Over night stop: the lodge at the rim of the canyon, for its stellar proximity to the Amphitheater rim.

You’ll want to take the stunning Utah 12 over Boulder Mountain to the park number three, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The stunning multi-colored rocks form what Led Zeppelin might’ve been inspired by, a virtual Stairway to Heaven. A short hike that’s accessible for little feet or the parents who carry them is Calf Creek Falls.

You are now two to three hours away from park number four, Capitol Reef National Park, considerably less visited than Bryce or Zion. Dome shaped white and multi-colored rock formations are one attraction, and so is the pioneer-settled town of Fruita. Founded in the 19th century, you’ll still find and be able to pick fresh fruit from the trees. Recommended over night accommodations are found in the small town of Torrey, where mom and pop motels offer the most bang for your buck, but chain offerings are also available.

You’re now heading east and south through a dry desert moonscape where satellite radio briefly deserted us and we picked up a scratchy AM station playing the theme song to The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. In about three hours you’ll be in park number five, the stunning Arches National Park.

Here, jaw dropping orange and red rocks shape a stone facsimile of Wall Street, delicate arches span sand dunes, and hills, including arches made famous to many children courtesy of  Indiana Jones 3. Devils Garden Trail lets you see a number of arches but requires a walk along the way, many of the arches are park and walk over to scramble up – true child’s play.

An easy scramble – parents, lift your little ones – leads to a grand view on Utah’s National Parks tour.

Across the highway from Arches is one part of national park six, Canyonlands National Park called Island in the Sky. Drive to the over looks, and admire the Green River far below; the trails here are longer than most small children can traverse. Another amazing lookout spot is on a spur road just before the entrance to Canyonlands. This is Dead Horse Point, a state park with a sad story behind it of horses plunging to their doom, but an amazing view also accessible by simply climbing out of your car. You can find pleasant motel accommodations in Moab proper, or swing out route 128 to Red Cliffs Lodge for delightful views and a spacious suite near the Rio Grande. We stayed two nights in this location. It’s a long five hours but it’s an easy drive across I-80 to reconnect with I-15 and turn south to Las Vegas or LA, with hundreds of photographs and sleepy children dreaming of red rock fairy lands through the last remaining miles.

-A side trip: about an hour north of your intersection with the I-15 is Cedar Breaks state park whose scenic overlooks are less than twenty minutes off the highway. There’s an easy rim trail to traverse, or stay with the five mile road that rings the small park whose amphitheater is similar to that inside Bryce Canyon National Park. You’ll have scenic overlooks from which to grab some stunning photos, which in the summer months will include a view of wild flowers.

One of many arches in Arches National Park – a window on the sky

We were looking for double arch. I was told that’s where Indiana Jones stood as a child in film number three. I confess, all I can remember from the series is Harrison Ford and the massive boulder hurtling down after him, which I know didn’t happen in Arches National Park.  I also vaguely remember a monkey in the second film. Pretty sure there aren’t any monkeys in southern Utah either.

But there are plenty of Arches. Over two thousand of them. The hundred plus miles that make up the national park are full of them, and some even stretch out onto highway 191. The red sandstone in this part of the state has beautifully eroded into shapes like spires and windows and bridges and of course arches. The magnificent formations, clear blue skies most of the year, and easy to access short trails, lookout points, and grand vistas from the parks road makes this my favorite National Park. For us, it trumps Yosemite’s grandeur and Yellowstone’s geysers.

From the impossibly precarious Balanced Rock, to the surreal Courthouse Towers that look like windowless high rises, to the elegant flat planes of the city scape look of Park Streets cliffs, the often photographed Delicate Arch, and the stream of fascinating smaller arches located along the paths of Devils Garden, the landscape never disappoints.

And neither did Double Arch, located easily on a paved spur road about mid-park, and easily accessed. Wind and erosion partnered here to create a particularly impressive wing of sandstone from cracked rock domes. Throughout the park, most of the arches were formed from the weathering of Entrada sandstone deposited by ancient oceans millions of years ago. Salt beneath the rock pushed upwards as the seas advanced and fell, creating pressure that made the sandstone crack and create the arch. Over time, some arches fall, and new ones form.

We loved sand dune arch. Less than an eighth of a mile from the main park road, you duck down a sandy trail to a shaded arch right over a deep dune. Windows are two separate, facing arches a short distance away from each other. They’re among the most accessible in the park. Pull into a lot, stroll over to either one, climb up the short stair-like sides, and voila. Picture opportunity, amazing views, and brilliant sky framed by the arch itself. Children love this easy scramble. The caveat probably goes unspoken that small tots should have their hands held at all times.

Park Avenue in Arches National Park is like a movie set facade of the NYC highrises for which it’s named – a spectacular one.

Possibly even more impressive than the arches themselves is the attraction known as Park Avenue that appears shortly past the visitors center entrance to the park. These enormous vertical slab cliffs indeed bear the outline of skyscrapers and could be a surreal, Martian alternative universe of New York City.

The easy single mile path that leads from the parking lot through the Park Avenue area has a few stairs but is otherwise entirely child friendly. It’s most beautiful late in the day or early in the morning, when the sky scraper illusion is most prominent and the day’s heat has faded or not yet risen. The mile will pass effortlessly – there’s so much to see and admire as shadows shift over the rock facades – like a movie set all done in red – and create new illusions of buildings and towers.

The well known Delicate Arch – so well known that it graces Utah’s license plates – is the hardest to access. It’s a long walk by any standard, and small tykes are going to be carried much of the way. There are so many other easy to see arches along the eighteen mile road through the park that you won’t mind too much if you need to miss it to accommodate small children. Besides, it’s a reason to come back, as I did, when my children were older. You can take photos from an overlook and point it out, but the trail that will lead you to stand beneath it is three miles long and has an elevation gain of about four hundred feet.

Outside the park, right along U.S. 191 you’ll find Wilson Arch. This is a simple climb up a hill which many people undertake – you’ll see people posing for pictures beneath it from the road. Join them and you’ll be treated to a sweeping view of the desert valley and the red rock everywhere. We stood for awhile gazing at a thunderstorm on its way before scrambling back down to our car before the first drops fell.

It’s hard to describe how magical the arches are, but it is an incredibly special place. Many years ago, a waitress in a Salinas truck stop told me that I had to take my children there. That it was more important that I take them there than to Paris or New York or San Francisco, the latter of which I was headed toward. Her fervor impressed me and got me there – and I’m passing it on. Take the kids. So many easy trails, so many stunning views. Seeing the world framed by an arch puts more than the landscape into perspective. It gives you a dream-scape to admire, too.

Arches National Park is located in the southeast part of Utah about 5 miles north of Moab, Utah. Find out more about this inspirational wonder of nature by visiting their site at the National Park Service: http://www.nps.gov/arch/index.htm

Of course, the entire Southern Utah area is filled with amazing sights – the delicate arches and wonderful, easy loop trails in Arches National Park, the purple-at-twlight monoliths of Fisher Towers off Route 128, the serpentine meandering of the Colorado River alongside the road, the aptly named Green River snaking through canyons thousands of feet below an overlook.

Canyonlands National Park offers incredible views and great short hikes

In Canyonlands, particularly, you’ll find rock formations that the kids will love finding, as their names are descriptive: elephants, nymphs, knights and shoes are easily recognizable, regardless of which of the three distinctive park areas you’re visiting. Island in the Sky is easily accessible with an extensive visitors center, paved roads, short loop hikes, and a vast mesa resting atop sandstone cliffs that rise high above the surrounding canyons. Many overlooks reveal changing views from easy pull outs. There’s also a short trail to a very spectacular view point – called the Grand View Overlook. The trail is easy and under a mile, but as it takes you along the canyon’s actual edge, you’ll want to hold on tightly to small children’s hands. A favorite very short trail of ours led to Mesa Arch, with a great view of the canyons below. Older kids will love climbing the whale at Whale Rock, too.

The Needles area is the southeast end of Canyonlands,  named for the brightly colored spire like sandstone formations here. You’ll also find more vast and panoramic views that take a bit longer to access, but are still an easy drive. Parents with small children will want to skip the Maze which is four wheel drive accessible. However, en route to that location, you’ll find the Great Gallery with some truly astonishing man made rock art – created by Native Americans in prehistoric times. You’ll also find some self-guided trails right off the scenic drive. Older children and adults will love the half mile Cave Spring Trail, which leads you past an historic cowboy  camp and very well preserved prehistoric pictographs. But you’ll need to traverse two wooden ladders to see them.

We toured a lot of the park in our car, taking only short loop trails or picture taking stops. How adventures you want to be depends on both the ages of your children, your comfort level with taking them out along trails that are easy but have steep drops, and how hot or cold the weather is when you’re visiting. You can still see a lot of the park without wandering far from your vehicle, and having done this trip several times with children of varying ages, it’s always a pleasure just to view the scenery, to get out and take pictures and name those cool rocks.

The history of the place is awe inspiring. After all, many, many years ago, be sure and tell your children, this dry rocky landscape was perched at the edge of an enormous ocean. Many centuries of floods and subsequent dry spells caused vast deposits of sedimentary stone, and when the continent itself began to rise ten million some years ago, wind and rain created the amazing cliffs, strange island and peaks and arches. A wonderful children’s book, Fossils Tell of Long Ago might make a good traveling companion for this trip. Our family was enthralled by the different colored stone layers, red and brown and green and gold. And by the shapes, so fantastic and recognizable – rocks and arches look like theaters, buildings, bridges, cathedrals, and cars.

There are so many different facets to the scenery in Canyonlands, Utah - the kids will love the mysteriously shaped rock formations

At the Visitor’s Centers, kids can receive Discovery Packs, which include binoculars, a hand lens for examining geological findings up close, a naturalist guide and a lined notebook. Parents will need to leave a deposit for these, but they’re a lot of fun for ages five and up.

Looking at such awe inspiring sights makes you hungry, we found. A casual stop in Moab is
Milt’s, a drive-in with a 1950′s era feel and fantastic crisp onion rings. For a full meal, you’ll find Pasta Jay’s in town, where what they serve is pretty evident by the name.

If you’re staying out at Red Cliff’s Lodge off Route 128, you’ll love the river front dining at a family friendly restaurant with an incredible view of Fisher Towers and the Colorado River to accompany your trout, vegetable platter, or apple pie. Even if you’re not staying there, it’s worth a drive for the view, although winter months may find the road a bit difficult.

Although Canyonlands is a bit off the beaten path, you’ll love experiencing this beautiful, divided park with its fairy tale rock formations and fantastic views.

Snow is like ice cream - cold but great fun for kids of all ages.

Okay, once you overcome the shock that not only did your child think you made a terrible mistake, but you could’ve saved a lot of money and stayed warmer by just visiting that beach boardwalk, even in winter – it’s time to hit the slopes.

The best way to do this with children of any age (once they can walk effectively and are over the age of two) is to get lessons. Kind, age appropriate, group or individual lessons that let mom or dad head off to the big slopes or the lodge for a fireplace and hot chocolate, or to ‘bunny slopes’ for slow old people, like me.

Of course you’ll need to get to that ski resort in the first place, and whether its Park City, Utah or a homespun Vermont resort geared to day trippers, you’ll need gear. You could rent it on site, like we did; or bring it with you from home – which is great if you’re planning to ski repeatedly, or are in fact an afficiando of the sport, otherwise, transporting cumbersome gear via plane or stuffed vehicle should be eschewed for the less sleek rental items available at any resort you’ll visit.

Mammoth Mountain – Mammoth Lakes, CA

Making a ski trip fun for kids should always involve great quantities of hot chocolate, grilled cheese sandwiches, and a rental condo, lodge, or motel room that’s conveniently located near the slopes. We took one such trip to Mammoth Mountain California, staying at the lodge, dining in the over priced but oh-so- convenient dining room, riding an enclosed lift car for a scenic view and then back down again to the baby slopes where we all had our respective lessons. A drive to picturesquely iced Reds Lake apres ski, and cozy rental-movie watching in our pine walled room made this one easy. Best of all was an outdoor jacuzzi which one could spend hours in and which one wanted to, at least in order to avoid getting out of it and hoping not to slip on the ice that formed as your wet footprints hit the red wood deck. Mountain views: A+, ski rentals and meals on the pricey side, convenience also great.

Skiing Park City, Utah

A different sort of a trip was found at Park City Mountain resort, where the kids were a bit older, and the ski instruction better and longer. A six hour day including lunch break took my son up amazingly high slopes when he gained fast skill and mobility in his small-fry group lesson. When his instructor called me and cajoled me into a private lesson praising his great learning ability, who was I to fight future Olympic ski champion greatness. Luckily for me I didn’t know just how high he was going, or that it was going to start snowing while he was up there. He returned triumphant, unscathed, and skilled. My daughter and I stuck to movies – we were there primarily for the Sundance Film Festival – and hot cocoa.

Tips for Parents

How early is too early to go skiing? Apparently, to my surprise, once your child can competently walk. Toddler classes are everywhere, and the babe who conquers a bunny slope will be thrilled with his or her abilities. Also apparently, the earlier you learn, the easier that learning comes, which may explain why my college age learning skill had severely limited my capabilities.

If you’re ski-inclined, a good time of year to pursue that passion is holiday time. Along with the obvious delight of children, snow, snowballs, and the ubiquitous cocoa offerings, there are usually some special events taking place. Park City Mountain Resort for example presents Santa. A skiing Santa, who will descend from the mountain top via the Town ski lift, where he waits for photo ops, carols, and cookies just after dark.

Park City Utah – snowy fun

I’m a big fan of Park City, because the resorts lessons were provably good, somewhat reasonable in price, and it’s not a glitzy show palace despite its location. It’s received several top family resort awards, and I can see why, particularly since its class sizes are for five children or less, and kids age six and up can choose lunch away from their parents in one of the resorts on-mountain restaurants. It’s toddler age program, for kids three and a half to five has only three kids per class, and these lessons are understandably shorter and do not include lunch.

For families with matriarchs braver and more adventuresome than me, there are family zip line tours, an arctic coaster, night skiing, and other fast moving pursuits. At the end of a three day stay, I no longer heard any mention of skee ball, although that would be an interesting activity to add to any ski resort willing to take on such an idea.

The temple was stunning

When we travel, Dad and I try to move beyond the glossy tourist attractions and dig deeper into the local culture. We love to learn the history of each place that we visit, from the geological records to the human events. While in Utah, one of our goals was to learn a bit about the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints (LDS), originally known as the Mormon Church. We knew that the church was instrumental in founding portions of Utah, including the town of St. George, so we decided to pay a visit to the St. George Utah Temple.

About the Temple

The statue of Jesus dominates the main room

Although the temple in Salt Lake City was begun first, the St. George Utah Temple was the first to be completed in Utah. It was dedicated in 1877, and was the only temple completed during Brigham Young’s 30-year presidency of the church.

The highly ornate temple has undergone renovations several times, although much of the original look was retained. The first renovation began just a year after the temple opened, when the tower was badly damaged in a lightning storm. It was replaced with a taller and more majestic tower.  The annex was destroyed in a fire in 1928, although all records and furnishings were saved. A new annex opened in the 1950s. Extensive renovations took place in 1937 and again in 1975, nearly doubling the size of the temple.

The temple is not open to the public, although visiting members of the church are always welcome. Instead, the church operates a large visitor center on the site. Admission is free, and the visitor center is open from 9 to 9 daily.

Our Experience

Our guide was extremely helpful and friendly

Dad and I arrived in the early afternoon, after spending the morning at the St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site. We read some informational signs on the early history of the temple and took a few photos from the road before entering the visitor center.

The center was staffed with friendly and welcoming church volunteers. After a bit of small talk, one of the volunteers offered to show us around. The center was packed with religious artwork, photos of various church leaders and displays related to both the temple and LDS life. Dad was particularly enthralled by the large display of copies of the Book of Mormon translated into numerous languages. There was no Hebrew translation, but there was an Arabic version. It was quite interesting to see how many languages were available.

The visitor center offered terrific views of the temple

The temple was visible through a large plate-glass window. Beneath the window was a set of photographs and descriptions of the various temple rooms. It was wonderful to see depictions of the interior. Everything was elegant, yet tasteful.

During our tour, our guide asked if we were members of the church. We explained that we are not, but that we are curious. She was happy to answer our questions and share details of both historic and modern LDS life. Dad even asked the hard questions regarding divorce and other controversial topics, and she was ready with simple, honest answers.

At the end of the visit, we were offered a Book of Mormon and invited to make an appointment with a missionary. At no time did we feel pressured or proselytized to, only welcomed as visitors and invited to learn as much as we cared to.

Tips for Parents

The Book of Mormon was translated into a dizzying array of languages

The visitor center is a wonderful place to visit, regardless of your own religious affiliation. Utah was largely settled by Mormon pioneers, and a trip to the visitor center adds perspective to the state’s history. The church volunteers are quite helpful, whether your interest lies primarily in historical research or modern LDS life.

Kids are welcome, and the volunteers go out of their way to make them feel comfortable. There is a lot to look at, and children’s questions are answered honestly and thoughtfully. Of course, how long you spend will largely depend on your children’s attention span.

It is entirely up to you whether you accept a Book of Mormon or make arrangements to meet with a church representative. Although the offer is made, there is no pressure. As we understand it, the visitor center is meant to be a repository of information rather than any sort of “conversion center.” We ended up spending close to an hour asking detailed questions, but you could easily see the center in 30 minutes or so.

The St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site is ranked one of the top ten in the world

Dad and I recently spent some time in southwestern Utah, as part of our summer 2011 adventure through the American Southwest. While we were excited to see the national parks, we also wanted to discover the smaller local attractions. As science and history buffs, we knew we couldn’t miss out on the St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site in St. George, Utah. The site has been described by paleontologists as one of the top ten track sites in the world.

About Dinosaur Discovery

The 3-D dinosaur tracks are quite rare

Local optometrist Dr. Sheldon Johnson was clearing some land on his property in 2000 when he made an unusual discovery. As he was removing blocks of sandstone from a hill, Dr. Johnson unearthed a three-dimensional dinosaur footprint. The well-preserved track was visible in both the sandstone and the clay that covered it.

While dinosaur tracks are common in this part of Utah, three-dimensional tracks are not. As he unearthed more and more footprints, Dr. Johnson called in an expert for advice. Paleontologist Dr. Jim Kirkland and his team identified hundreds of dinosaur tracks preserved on Dr. Johnson’s land, as well as rare impressions of dinosaur skin. Dr. Johnson and Dr. Kirkland worked with officials at the local, state and national levels to preserve the tracks and impressions, and display them in a museum on the site of the original discovery.

The museum features dozens of fossils

Today the museum features the best-preserved of the tracks along with fossils of dinosaurs, small animals and a wide variety of plants. An intro video uses cartoon characters to explain life in the dinosaur era, while a special exhibit room features changing displays and activities related to dinosaurs.

As of 2011, the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 to 6. Limited operating hours are sometimes offered on Sundays during the summer. Admission is $6 for adults and $3 for kids aged 4 to 11. Children under 4 are free.

Our Experience

Take time to see the kid-friendly intro video

Dad and I arrived around 11:00, just in time for the introductory video. Shown in a curtained-off section of the main exhibit hall, the video can be slightly hard to hear if the museum is crowded. Sit close to the TV if possible. The video’s cartoon characters are loveable, and the presentation is great fun for all ages.

The exhibit hall is basically one large room with directional arrows for crowd control. Though it was fairly busy on the day of our visit, we never felt crowded or had any trouble seeing the displays. Signage throughout the exhibit does an excellent job of explaining the type of dinosaur that made each track and the type of track or imprint that was left behind.

The origami was a lot of fun

During our visit, the special exhibit was on origami. The room was filled with examples of origami dinosaurs, with signs explaining the type of paper used and the dinosaur represented. Additional signs explained the art of origami and some of the difficulties of reproducing various types of dinosaurs in paper.

In the center of the room was a large table. At each seat was a laminated set of instructions for making either a crane or a swan in origami. A thick stack of origami paper sat in the middle of the table. Not being ones to shy away from a challenge, Dad and I decided to give it a try. We noticed halfway through the project that some sets of instructions were for an “easy” version, while others were for a “harder” variation. Guess who ended up with the harder project? Both animals came out quite well, though.

Tips for Parents

The volunteers were friendly and helpful

The St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site is great fun for all ages, even if you are not a particular dinosaur fan. The informational signs are packed with details for paleontology buffs, but there is enough to look at to keep everyone engaged. Younger readers may have difficulty with some of the signs, so plan to explain things to your kids. The museum is staffed with friendly and knowledgeable volunteers who are happy to share their expertise.

We spent approximately two hours examining everything in depth. If your interest is more casual, you could easily finish the museum in an hour or so. Parking is available on site for RVs and other large vehicles, making this a great break point during a long drive. The museum is entirely enclosed and climate-controlled.

Pipe Spring was settled by Mormon pioneers in 1870

While exploring the national parks of Utah, Dad and I decided to base camp at an RV resort in Hurricane, just over the Utah border in the extreme southwest corner of the state. We had a few extra days in Hurricane, so we decided to explore the area. On the advice of a friendly local at the free Hurricane Valley Museum, we drove out to Pipe Spring National Monument about 45 miles away, just over the border along the Arizona Strip.  We took Utah State Route 59 east until we reached the state line where it turns into Arizona State Route 389.

About Pipe Spring

The ranch has been carefully preserved

Pipe Spring has long been a source of vital water in the Arizona desert. The Ancestral Puebloans settled in the region in approximately 1 A.D. They were followed by the Paiute people in approximately 1200 A.D. The Paiute saw their role as stewards of the land and water. They built a complex society, in which resources were freely shared, ensuring that everyone had enough.

In 1847, Mormon settlers traveled to Utah under the direction of Brigham Young. In 1870, on orders from the Mormon church, Anson Winsor went to Pipe Spring to establish a tithing ranch. The ranch house he built is still known as Winsor Castle. As it was isolated from local government or other services, the ranch house was constructed as a fort.

The guided tour was fascinating

Winsor Castle soon drew the ire of the Paiute, as it was constructed literally on top of the spring. The Mormons argued that they needed the water for their ranch operations, while the Paiute felt that they were selfishly hording a community resource. Meanwhile, the Mormon church came under fire from the federal government for their practice of polygamy. Many Mormon men sent their additional wives to live at Winsor Castle, far away from what they felt were the prying eyes of government agents. Tensions ran extremely high between the three groups.

Eventually the competing interests were resolved. The Mormon church renounced polygamy in 1890, paving the way for Utah statehood in 1896. The church sold the ranch to a private owner in 1895. Starved for resources, many native Paiute families were forced to move away or take survival jobs on local ranches. In 1913, however, the Kaibab Paiute Reservation was established on 200 square miles along the Arizona Strip. Pipe Spring became a national monument in 1923 and is jointly managed by the National Park Service and the Kaibab Paiute tribe.

Our Experience

The drive was half the fun!

The drive from Hurricane to Pipe Spring was breathtakingly beautiful. The route includes steep mountain grades, tight switchbacks and wonderful scenery. Pull-offs are available for those who want to enjoy the views. Arizona does not observe Daylight Saving Time, so during the summer Arizona time is an hour earlier than Utah time. We were happy to discover that the gas station across the street from the monument is on tribal land, so no sales tax is charged. Plan to fill up there if you can.

Unlike many national monuments, Pipe Spring is not well known. Only 55,000 people visit each year, in contrast to upwards of 2 million at Zion National Park, or more than 5 million at the Grand Canyon. The relative lack of tourism provided a very peaceful and relaxing day with park rangers who had plenty of time and energy to answer questions. As of 2011, the monument is open from 7 to 5 daily during the summer, and 8 to 5 daily from September through May. Admission is $5 for adults, valid for seven consecutive days. Children aged 15 and under are free. National park passes offer free admission for the passholder and three guests.

The park rangers were friendly and helpful

We arrived just after noon Arizona time. We ran straight to the theater at the back of the visitor center to catch the fantastic introductory film. The movie sets up the relationships between the opposing groups in a way that avoids taking sides. After the film, we headed directly to Winsor Castle for a guided tour.

The 25-minute tour was packed with historical details. Our guide was fantastic at keeping everyone engaged, while an older woman in our group delighted us with her own memories of some of the period appliances and décor. We were invited to dip our hands into the spring water, but warned not to drink it as the water is not tested or treated for possible bacteria.

The animals were adorable

After the tour, we explored the grounds on our own. Farm animals still live on the ranch. They are not tame, but tolerate visitors with a sort of idle curiosity. A half-mile trail through the property leads to some truly amazing views.

We spent a bit of time exploring the small museum in the visitor center at the end of the day. Crops are still grown on the property and visitors are invited to take samples of whatever happens to be in season. The rangers are helpful and friendly, and always happy to share their knowledge.

Tips for Parents

Pipe Spring is a wonderful place to take a break from the high-energy touring at nearby national parks. A quiet oasis with plenty of space to play or simply sit and chat by the water, Pipe Spring offers something for everyone. Plan to spend at least two hours taking it all in. The weather is often hot and dry, so carry water if you plan to spend time outdoors.

Zion National Park is gorgeous

The national parks of Utah were high on our list of must-sees when Dad and I visited the American Southwest this summer. Due to some unexpected delays, we did not actually make it to Utah until September. As it turns out, the weather was perfect for our visit to Zion National Park.

About Zion

The Zion area has been visited by humans since at least 6000 B.C. Ancient nomadic tribes gathered wild plants and hunted game in the fertile region, carved by the Virgin River. Later, the Anasazi and Fremont peoples settled in the area, developing a system of agriculture customized to the environment. They built permanent dwellings and community buildings, but left the region by around 1300 A.D. due to changing weather patterns that alternately brought severe droughts and flooding. New nomadic tribes flourished until the European Americans arrived in the late 1700s.

It's easy to see why the settlers named it Zion!

In 1847, the Mormons came to Utah under the direction of Brigham Young. While they were mostly concentrated in what is now Salt Lake City, some church members were directed to spread out and settle the surrounding area. The fertile southern portion of the state proved excellent for agriculture, and the region became known as Utah’s “Dixie.” Zion means “sanctuary” or “place of God,” and those who settled near the Virgin River felt that they were living in such a place, so they quickly adopted the name.

In 1872, explorer John Wesley Powell mapped the Zion area, bringing new attention to the region. The canyon was declared a national monument in 1909 under the Native American name Mukuntuweap, but poor road conditions made it nearly impossible to access. By 1917, road and rail line improvements made it possible for tourists to reach the new Wylie Camp, a series of tents that comprised the first in-park lodging facilities.

Reverting to the Mormon name, “Zion,” the area became a national park in 1919, the first in Utah to receive that designation. The Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel was completed in 1930, linking Zion with Bryce Canyon. Extensive work was done to the park by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930s, much of which still remains. Today the park welcomes more than 2 million visitors per year.

Visiting Zion

The free shuttle bus is efficient and easy to use

Zion National Park comprises 229 square miles, but many visitors choose to focus on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. From April through October each year, the route is accessible only by free shuttle bus. Parking is available at the visitor center just inside the park gates, but it fills quite quickly. Free park and ride service is available in the gateway town of Springdale, just outside Zion National Park. However, the fee structure is a little odd.

If you have a national parks pass, it is valid for you and up to three guests, or for everyone in a vehicle. Simply show your pass when you leave the Springdale shuttle and enter Zion through the pedestrian entrance.

If you do not have a national parks pass, you will need to drive into the park once. As of 2011, the admission fee is $25 per carload, and is valid for seven consecutive days. You may use the car receipt for readmission through the pedestrian entrance for your entire group.

If you do not first enter the park by car, then each person in your group must separately pay the per-person admission fee at the pedestrian entrance. As of 2011, the admission fee is $12 per person, valid for seven consecutive days. If you have more than two in your group, it is easy to see how the fees can add up!

Our Experience

Breakfast at the Lodge was a great choice

Dad and I stayed at an RV resort in nearby Hurricane, Utah, just 12 miles from Zion National Park. He has a national parks pass, so we did not need to pay for admission. We arrived before 10:30 and decided to take a chance on finding parking in Zion rather than Springdale. We did manage to find a spot at the very back of an outer parking lot. If we had been much later, Zion parking would have been completely full.

We had heard good things about the restaurant in the Zion Lodge, so we decided to get breakfast before heading out. We caught the free shuttle bus at the visitor center, which dropped us off just outside the Lodge. A breakfast buffet was available, but since we are not heavy eaters, we opted to split a meal from the menu instead. The food was terrific! We arrived just before the restaurant shut down to prepare for lunch, but still received quick, friendly and professional service.

Exploring the canyon was lots of fun

With full bellies, we were ready to see Zion Canyon. The full shuttle ride is approximately 80 minutes if you stay on the bus, but where is the fun in that? We opted to get out at every stop. Each bus stop offers a mix of scenic overlooks and hiking opportunities, from short paved trails to strenuous overnight adventures. The weather was terrific, so we decided to explore some of the trails.

To us, the most interesting part of the adventure is the fact that the scenic drive travels along the canyon floor. At the Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon, only the Rim is easily accessible. Getting down into the canyon requires either a helicopter ride or a strenuous hike or mule ride. At Arizona’s Verde Canyon, the Verde Canyon Railroad visits the canyon floor, but there is nowhere to get out and walk around. This was our first experience with hiking along a canyon floor.

We thoroughly enjoyed every stop. Most had gorgeous views from just outside the bus stop, making them a great choice even for those who do not want to hike. We ended up taking two designated hiking trails and one very short but very steep climb to an overlook.

Weeping Rock Trail

If you only do one hike, choose Weeping Rock

According to the official park newspaper, this is a short but steep trail to a rocky alcove with dripping springs. While accurate, the description does not do justice to this amazing little spot. The climb was definitely steep, gaining 98 feet of elevation in just two-tenths of a mile. But the trail was paved and relatively easy. What was truly incredible, though, was the sheer volume of water at the top. We climbed through a surprisingly lush forest, ending in a massive rocky alcove that felt more like a rainforest! We expected a few drips, but actually got something of a shower. What a welcome relief on a hot, dry desert day! Use caution on the steps as you approach the alcove, as they are always wet and slippery.

Riverside Walk

The beginning of the famed The Narrows trail

Almost as soon as we entered the park, we began to hear talk of The Narrows. A strenuous and potentially dangerous eight-hour hike in the Virgin River, we knew that The Narrows was outside our physical capabilities. But we were intrigued to learn that The Narrows begins at the end of the Riverside Walk, a paved trail along the riverbank that is just 1.1 miles in each direction. So we decided to take the Riverside Walk and wade out into the river at the beginning of The Narrows.

What an amazing adventure! As we followed the path, the canyon walls began to narrow, forming a slot canyon. We had one eye on the sky, as rain was predicted, but the weather held out. What a treat to step out onto the rocks in the river, watching intrepid hikers trek down the river and out of sight! Note that while the Riverside Walk is fine for children, The Narrows is not recommended for kids or anyone who is not in top physical shape.

Court of the Patriarchs

The Court of the Patriarchs overlook is worth the climb

Although not designated as an official hike, probably because it is so short, don’t miss the steep trail to the overlook. It’s right behind the bus stop, and offers a phenomenal overview of the rock formations. Signage at the overlook gives a great deal of information about the waterfalls and other natural features within the park.

Zion Human History Museum

The Zion Human History Museum is well worth a stop. A dramatic 22-minute free film tells the story of Zion, while a small but excellent set of displays showcases artifacts from throughout the region. We were fortunate enough to be there just before a storm rolled in, and Dad had great fun on the back patio photographing the storm clouds! Use caution if you try this, though, as lightning is a very real danger. If less than 30 seconds elapse between the time you see lightning and the time you hear thunder, take shelter immediately.

Tips for Parents

The storm clouds were gathering behind the museum

Zion National Park is packed with ranger programs and hiking opportunities. We did not have time in our one-day visit to explore Kolobob Canyons or Kolobob Terrace, both offering scenic drives on which you may take your personal vehicle. Plan to spend a full day exploring the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive by shuttle bus, and at least one more day seeing the rest of the park.

Keep a close eye on your kids, and never allow them to run ahead or go off the designated trails. Steep drop-offs and slippery footing present constant hazards. Pay especially close attention if you decide to enter the river at the beginning of The Narrows. The current is swift and the rocks are slippery. We saw several families having a good time together, but this is not like your local swimming hole. Make sure your kids are good swimmers and are willing to follow instructions before entering the river. Do not go more than a few feet into the water if your children are small.

Bottled water is not sold within the park. Instead, the gift shop at the visitor center sells reusable water bottles. Filling stations are located at most stops along the scenic drive. Keep your bottles full and make sure that everyone is drinking plenty of water. The weather is often hot and dry, easily leading to dehydration. Carry salty snacks with you. Hats, sunscreen and sturdy walking shoes are essential.

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Zion National Park Utah: An Overview