Of course, the entire Southern Utah area is filled with amazing sights – the delicate arches and wonderful, easy loop trails in Arches National Park, the purple-at-twlight monoliths of Fisher Towers off Route 128, the serpentine meandering of the Colorado River alongside the road, the aptly named Green River snaking through canyons thousands of feet below an overlook.

Canyonlands National Park offers incredible views and great short hikes

In Canyonlands, particularly, you’ll find rock formations that the kids will love finding, as their names are descriptive: elephants, nymphs, knights and shoes are easily recognizable, regardless of which of the three distinctive park areas you’re visiting. Island in the Sky is easily accessible with an extensive visitors center, paved roads, short loop hikes, and a vast mesa resting atop sandstone cliffs that rise high above the surrounding canyons. Many overlooks reveal changing views from easy pull outs. There’s also a short trail to a very spectacular view point – called the Grand View Overlook. The trail is easy and under a mile, but as it takes you along the canyon’s actual edge, you’ll want to hold on tightly to small children’s hands. A favorite very short trail of ours led to Mesa Arch, with a great view of the canyons below. Older kids will love climbing the whale at Whale Rock, too.

The Needles area is the southeast end of Canyonlands,  named for the brightly colored spire like sandstone formations here. You’ll also find more vast and panoramic views that take a bit longer to access, but are still an easy drive. Parents with small children will want to skip the Maze which is four wheel drive accessible. However, en route to that location, you’ll find the Great Gallery with some truly astonishing man made rock art – created by Native Americans in prehistoric times. You’ll also find some self-guided trails right off the scenic drive. Older children and adults will love the half mile Cave Spring Trail, which leads you past an historic cowboy  camp and very well preserved prehistoric pictographs. But you’ll need to traverse two wooden ladders to see them.

We toured a lot of the park in our car, taking only short loop trails or picture taking stops. How adventures you want to be depends on both the ages of your children, your comfort level with taking them out along trails that are easy but have steep drops, and how hot or cold the weather is when you’re visiting. You can still see a lot of the park without wandering far from your vehicle, and having done this trip several times with children of varying ages, it’s always a pleasure just to view the scenery, to get out and take pictures and name those cool rocks.

The history of the place is awe inspiring. After all, many, many years ago, be sure and tell your children, this dry rocky landscape was perched at the edge of an enormous ocean. Many centuries of floods and subsequent dry spells caused vast deposits of sedimentary stone, and when the continent itself began to rise ten million some years ago, wind and rain created the amazing cliffs, strange island and peaks and arches. A wonderful children’s book, Fossils Tell of Long Ago might make a good traveling companion for this trip. Our family was enthralled by the different colored stone layers, red and brown and green and gold. And by the shapes, so fantastic and recognizable – rocks and arches look like theaters, buildings, bridges, cathedrals, and cars.

There are so many different facets to the scenery in Canyonlands, Utah - the kids will love the mysteriously shaped rock formations

At the Visitor’s Centers, kids can receive Discovery Packs, which include binoculars, a hand lens for examining geological findings up close, a naturalist guide and a lined notebook. Parents will need to leave a deposit for these, but they’re a lot of fun for ages five and up.

Looking at such awe inspiring sights makes you hungry, we found. A casual stop in Moab is
Milt’s, a drive-in with a 1950′s era feel and fantastic crisp onion rings. For a full meal, you’ll find Pasta Jay’s in town, where what they serve is pretty evident by the name.

If you’re staying out at Red Cliff’s Lodge off Route 128, you’ll love the river front dining at a family friendly restaurant with an incredible view of Fisher Towers and the Colorado River to accompany your trout, vegetable platter, or apple pie. Even if you’re not staying there, it’s worth a drive for the view, although winter months may find the road a bit difficult.

Although Canyonlands is a bit off the beaten path, you’ll love experiencing this beautiful, divided park with its fairy tale rock formations and fantastic views.

A beautiful Yosemite winter view.

Our Experience in Winter

So it was with a little bit of trepidation that I decided to take the kids to Yosemite again – but this time in a comparatively tourist-less season. This time instead of heat I’d be worrying about the cold, and I was relatively sure crowds would not be an issue. Yosemite is a picturesque place to visit over the holidays, but it’s not well traveled due to road closures and, well, the reason those roads can close – cold and snow.

But my worries were unwarranted. We had no crowds, no problem with parking, and although the temperature never crested a balmy 35 degrees, thanks to thermal underwear, gloves, hat, and a down jacket that was fashionable in the 80′s, I was comfortable. The kids, newly outfitted from discount clothing stores like TJ Maxx and Marshalls, were too. So when you’re budgeting for this trip, if you don’t have snow-weather gear, get some. Something else you’ll need to get: snow tires or chains. I was comfortable with the AWD in my Rav4, but I was also lucky. There were no ice patches, roads were cleared, and the soft snow that fell during our stay didn’t stick. So provision up. And then enjoy – and there’s plenty to enjoy indeed.

Picture perfect snow covered vistas. Artistically frozen streams and water falls. Pink sunsets glinting off the white snow and El Capitan. The kids can make snow angels. The rental cabin outside the park has a fireplace and I have Duraflame logs. You may not hike far – at least we didn’t. It was enough for us to just pop out of the car, flop down in some snow, throw a few snow balls, and then get back inside and get that heater going. No one is going to clear the snow drifts, and the people we saw walking very far off the road were wearing snowshoes – but the views are amazing, and the peacefulness of the park in the winter makes this a trip well worth taking.

And of course, there’s the simple wonder of snowfall itself. Living in Southern California, you don’t see that too often. Even if you do, will you see it with stunning iconic mountains and cliffs as a backdrop? With a fox, or was it a coytote, darting across an empty meadow? With a doe pausing to graze on some out-of-sight greenery and Yosemite Chapel behind her?

Picture taking aside, there’s something wonderful about tucking the kids into bed in a one-room cabin, watching the firelight flicker, and taking a last, moon-lit view out the window at soft white snow.

The Wawona Hotel has a lovely, rustic dining room with Sequoia cones hanging from the lights.

Our cabin was in Wawona, which is also home to Wawona Hotel in Yosemite National Park, a nineteenth century historic hostelry with a wonderful dining room. I made lunch and breakfast at the cabin, but confess to breaking my rule of using whatever kitchen I am fortunate enough to rent, and driving us the short distance to the hotel for dinner. The Victorian look of the dining room with its hand painted lights decked with sequoia cones was charming, and the service was friendly and relaxed. Best of all, the chef was happy to adopt meat dishes for vegetarian and vegan consumption, and the hot chocolate was a big hit with the kids, too. The hotel serves a delicious sounding Christmas dinner too, if you’re inclined to be in the park for the holiday.

In the park, the elegant Ahwahnee Hotel also has holiday dinners – in both cases you’ll want to reserve much in advance. The Ahwahnee may require a year’s planning. The hotel itself is a great respite from the cold, with a huge roaring fireplace in the lobby, a gift shop to explore, and a lobby bar that offers hot toddies for adults and hot apple cider for the kids.

Favorite moments: feeding chilly looking squirrels from the front porch of our cabin. Watching a sunset. Pelting my own car with snowballs. And the views, yes, those views. And no need to dodge around the heads of other tourists to get the best shots of Half Dome.

We entered the park via Highway 140, which is open year round. The road primarily follows the Merced River Canyon, and with two new bridges constructed after a recent rock slide, it’s easy to drive and relatively un-congested, even if you’re not traveling in the winter months.

Pipe Spring was settled by Mormon pioneers in 1870

While exploring the national parks of Utah, Dad and I decided to base camp at an RV resort in Hurricane, just over the Utah border in the extreme southwest corner of the state. We had a few extra days in Hurricane, so we decided to explore the area. On the advice of a friendly local at the free Hurricane Valley Museum, we drove out to Pipe Spring National Monument about 45 miles away, just over the border along the Arizona Strip.  We took Utah State Route 59 east until we reached the state line where it turns into Arizona State Route 389.

About Pipe Spring

The ranch has been carefully preserved

Pipe Spring has long been a source of vital water in the Arizona desert. The Ancestral Puebloans settled in the region in approximately 1 A.D. They were followed by the Paiute people in approximately 1200 A.D. The Paiute saw their role as stewards of the land and water. They built a complex society, in which resources were freely shared, ensuring that everyone had enough.

In 1847, Mormon settlers traveled to Utah under the direction of Brigham Young. In 1870, on orders from the Mormon church, Anson Winsor went to Pipe Spring to establish a tithing ranch. The ranch house he built is still known as Winsor Castle. As it was isolated from local government or other services, the ranch house was constructed as a fort.

The guided tour was fascinating

Winsor Castle soon drew the ire of the Paiute, as it was constructed literally on top of the spring. The Mormons argued that they needed the water for their ranch operations, while the Paiute felt that they were selfishly hording a community resource. Meanwhile, the Mormon church came under fire from the federal government for their practice of polygamy. Many Mormon men sent their additional wives to live at Winsor Castle, far away from what they felt were the prying eyes of government agents. Tensions ran extremely high between the three groups.

Eventually the competing interests were resolved. The Mormon church renounced polygamy in 1890, paving the way for Utah statehood in 1896. The church sold the ranch to a private owner in 1895. Starved for resources, many native Paiute families were forced to move away or take survival jobs on local ranches. In 1913, however, the Kaibab Paiute Reservation was established on 200 square miles along the Arizona Strip. Pipe Spring became a national monument in 1923 and is jointly managed by the National Park Service and the Kaibab Paiute tribe.

Our Experience

The drive was half the fun!

The drive from Hurricane to Pipe Spring was breathtakingly beautiful. The route includes steep mountain grades, tight switchbacks and wonderful scenery. Pull-offs are available for those who want to enjoy the views. Arizona does not observe Daylight Saving Time, so during the summer Arizona time is an hour earlier than Utah time. We were happy to discover that the gas station across the street from the monument is on tribal land, so no sales tax is charged. Plan to fill up there if you can.

Unlike many national monuments, Pipe Spring is not well known. Only 55,000 people visit each year, in contrast to upwards of 2 million at Zion National Park, or more than 5 million at the Grand Canyon. The relative lack of tourism provided a very peaceful and relaxing day with park rangers who had plenty of time and energy to answer questions. As of 2011, the monument is open from 7 to 5 daily during the summer, and 8 to 5 daily from September through May. Admission is $5 for adults, valid for seven consecutive days. Children aged 15 and under are free. National park passes offer free admission for the passholder and three guests.

The park rangers were friendly and helpful

We arrived just after noon Arizona time. We ran straight to the theater at the back of the visitor center to catch the fantastic introductory film. The movie sets up the relationships between the opposing groups in a way that avoids taking sides. After the film, we headed directly to Winsor Castle for a guided tour.

The 25-minute tour was packed with historical details. Our guide was fantastic at keeping everyone engaged, while an older woman in our group delighted us with her own memories of some of the period appliances and décor. We were invited to dip our hands into the spring water, but warned not to drink it as the water is not tested or treated for possible bacteria.

The animals were adorable

After the tour, we explored the grounds on our own. Farm animals still live on the ranch. They are not tame, but tolerate visitors with a sort of idle curiosity. A half-mile trail through the property leads to some truly amazing views.

We spent a bit of time exploring the small museum in the visitor center at the end of the day. Crops are still grown on the property and visitors are invited to take samples of whatever happens to be in season. The rangers are helpful and friendly, and always happy to share their knowledge.

Tips for Parents

Pipe Spring is a wonderful place to take a break from the high-energy touring at nearby national parks. A quiet oasis with plenty of space to play or simply sit and chat by the water, Pipe Spring offers something for everyone. Plan to spend at least two hours taking it all in. The weather is often hot and dry, so carry water if you plan to spend time outdoors.

Zion National Park is gorgeous

The national parks of Utah were high on our list of must-sees when Dad and I visited the American Southwest this summer. Due to some unexpected delays, we did not actually make it to Utah until September. As it turns out, the weather was perfect for our visit to Zion National Park.

About Zion

The Zion area has been visited by humans since at least 6000 B.C. Ancient nomadic tribes gathered wild plants and hunted game in the fertile region, carved by the Virgin River. Later, the Anasazi and Fremont peoples settled in the area, developing a system of agriculture customized to the environment. They built permanent dwellings and community buildings, but left the region by around 1300 A.D. due to changing weather patterns that alternately brought severe droughts and flooding. New nomadic tribes flourished until the European Americans arrived in the late 1700s.

It's easy to see why the settlers named it Zion!

In 1847, the Mormons came to Utah under the direction of Brigham Young. While they were mostly concentrated in what is now Salt Lake City, some church members were directed to spread out and settle the surrounding area. The fertile southern portion of the state proved excellent for agriculture, and the region became known as Utah’s “Dixie.” Zion means “sanctuary” or “place of God,” and those who settled near the Virgin River felt that they were living in such a place, so they quickly adopted the name.

In 1872, explorer John Wesley Powell mapped the Zion area, bringing new attention to the region. The canyon was declared a national monument in 1909 under the Native American name Mukuntuweap, but poor road conditions made it nearly impossible to access. By 1917, road and rail line improvements made it possible for tourists to reach the new Wylie Camp, a series of tents that comprised the first in-park lodging facilities.

Reverting to the Mormon name, “Zion,” the area became a national park in 1919, the first in Utah to receive that designation. The Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel was completed in 1930, linking Zion with Bryce Canyon. Extensive work was done to the park by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930s, much of which still remains. Today the park welcomes more than 2 million visitors per year.

Visiting Zion

The free shuttle bus is efficient and easy to use

Zion National Park comprises 229 square miles, but many visitors choose to focus on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. From April through October each year, the route is accessible only by free shuttle bus. Parking is available at the visitor center just inside the park gates, but it fills quite quickly. Free park and ride service is available in the gateway town of Springdale, just outside Zion National Park. However, the fee structure is a little odd.

If you have a national parks pass, it is valid for you and up to three guests, or for everyone in a vehicle. Simply show your pass when you leave the Springdale shuttle and enter Zion through the pedestrian entrance.

If you do not have a national parks pass, you will need to drive into the park once. As of 2011, the admission fee is $25 per carload, and is valid for seven consecutive days. You may use the car receipt for readmission through the pedestrian entrance for your entire group.

If you do not first enter the park by car, then each person in your group must separately pay the per-person admission fee at the pedestrian entrance. As of 2011, the admission fee is $12 per person, valid for seven consecutive days. If you have more than two in your group, it is easy to see how the fees can add up!

Our Experience

Breakfast at the Lodge was a great choice

Dad and I stayed at an RV resort in nearby Hurricane, Utah, just 12 miles from Zion National Park. He has a national parks pass, so we did not need to pay for admission. We arrived before 10:30 and decided to take a chance on finding parking in Zion rather than Springdale. We did manage to find a spot at the very back of an outer parking lot. If we had been much later, Zion parking would have been completely full.

We had heard good things about the restaurant in the Zion Lodge, so we decided to get breakfast before heading out. We caught the free shuttle bus at the visitor center, which dropped us off just outside the Lodge. A breakfast buffet was available, but since we are not heavy eaters, we opted to split a meal from the menu instead. The food was terrific! We arrived just before the restaurant shut down to prepare for lunch, but still received quick, friendly and professional service.

Exploring the canyon was lots of fun

With full bellies, we were ready to see Zion Canyon. The full shuttle ride is approximately 80 minutes if you stay on the bus, but where is the fun in that? We opted to get out at every stop. Each bus stop offers a mix of scenic overlooks and hiking opportunities, from short paved trails to strenuous overnight adventures. The weather was terrific, so we decided to explore some of the trails.

To us, the most interesting part of the adventure is the fact that the scenic drive travels along the canyon floor. At the Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon, only the Rim is easily accessible. Getting down into the canyon requires either a helicopter ride or a strenuous hike or mule ride. At Arizona’s Verde Canyon, the Verde Canyon Railroad visits the canyon floor, but there is nowhere to get out and walk around. This was our first experience with hiking along a canyon floor.

We thoroughly enjoyed every stop. Most had gorgeous views from just outside the bus stop, making them a great choice even for those who do not want to hike. We ended up taking two designated hiking trails and one very short but very steep climb to an overlook.

Weeping Rock Trail

If you only do one hike, choose Weeping Rock

According to the official park newspaper, this is a short but steep trail to a rocky alcove with dripping springs. While accurate, the description does not do justice to this amazing little spot. The climb was definitely steep, gaining 98 feet of elevation in just two-tenths of a mile. But the trail was paved and relatively easy. What was truly incredible, though, was the sheer volume of water at the top. We climbed through a surprisingly lush forest, ending in a massive rocky alcove that felt more like a rainforest! We expected a few drips, but actually got something of a shower. What a welcome relief on a hot, dry desert day! Use caution on the steps as you approach the alcove, as they are always wet and slippery.

Riverside Walk

The beginning of the famed The Narrows trail

Almost as soon as we entered the park, we began to hear talk of The Narrows. A strenuous and potentially dangerous eight-hour hike in the Virgin River, we knew that The Narrows was outside our physical capabilities. But we were intrigued to learn that The Narrows begins at the end of the Riverside Walk, a paved trail along the riverbank that is just 1.1 miles in each direction. So we decided to take the Riverside Walk and wade out into the river at the beginning of The Narrows.

What an amazing adventure! As we followed the path, the canyon walls began to narrow, forming a slot canyon. We had one eye on the sky, as rain was predicted, but the weather held out. What a treat to step out onto the rocks in the river, watching intrepid hikers trek down the river and out of sight! Note that while the Riverside Walk is fine for children, The Narrows is not recommended for kids or anyone who is not in top physical shape.

Court of the Patriarchs

The Court of the Patriarchs overlook is worth the climb

Although not designated as an official hike, probably because it is so short, don’t miss the steep trail to the overlook. It’s right behind the bus stop, and offers a phenomenal overview of the rock formations. Signage at the overlook gives a great deal of information about the waterfalls and other natural features within the park.

Zion Human History Museum

The Zion Human History Museum is well worth a stop. A dramatic 22-minute free film tells the story of Zion, while a small but excellent set of displays showcases artifacts from throughout the region. We were fortunate enough to be there just before a storm rolled in, and Dad had great fun on the back patio photographing the storm clouds! Use caution if you try this, though, as lightning is a very real danger. If less than 30 seconds elapse between the time you see lightning and the time you hear thunder, take shelter immediately.

Tips for Parents

The storm clouds were gathering behind the museum

Zion National Park is packed with ranger programs and hiking opportunities. We did not have time in our one-day visit to explore Kolobob Canyons or Kolobob Terrace, both offering scenic drives on which you may take your personal vehicle. Plan to spend a full day exploring the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive by shuttle bus, and at least one more day seeing the rest of the park.

Keep a close eye on your kids, and never allow them to run ahead or go off the designated trails. Steep drop-offs and slippery footing present constant hazards. Pay especially close attention if you decide to enter the river at the beginning of The Narrows. The current is swift and the rocks are slippery. We saw several families having a good time together, but this is not like your local swimming hole. Make sure your kids are good swimmers and are willing to follow instructions before entering the river. Do not go more than a few feet into the water if your children are small.

Bottled water is not sold within the park. Instead, the gift shop at the visitor center sells reusable water bottles. Filling stations are located at most stops along the scenic drive. Keep your bottles full and make sure that everyone is drinking plenty of water. The weather is often hot and dry, easily leading to dehydration. Carry salty snacks with you. Hats, sunscreen and sturdy walking shoes are essential.

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Zion National Park Utah: An Overview

Bryce Canyon is visually stunning

When Dad and I decided to spend the summer of 2011 exploring the American Southwest, we had a few specific destinations in mind. Near the top of the list were the best-known national parks in Utah — Zion, Arches and Bryce Canyon. For a variety of reasons, our visit to Utah was significantly delayed, but when we finally made it to Bryce Canyon in September, it turned out to be well worth the wait.

About Bryce Canyon

The tall pinnacles are known as hoodoos

Technically speaking, Bryce Canyon is not a canyon at all. Canyons are carved by rivers, while Bryce Canyon was carved by an endless cycle of freezing and thawing. As the official website points out, though, “the world’s biggest pothole” just doesn’t have the same ring to it.

Once covered by a vast body of water, the rocks of Bryce Canyon began rising approximately 15 million years ago as part of the Colorado Plateau. Roughly 8 million years ago, the Bryce Canyon area broke off to form the Paunsaugunt Plateau. Since then, the rocks have been shaped by ice and snow.

Approximately 200 days each year feature temperatures warm enough to melt the ice and snow during the day, only to refreeze at night. The constant expansion and contraction chisel and shape the rock formations, creating vast pinnacles known as hoodoos. Over time, the hoodoos erode, eventually collapsing altogether.

Humans have occupied the area since at least 200 A.D.

Bryce Canyon is home to nearly 40 species of animals including birds, mammals and reptiles. Pronghorns, Utah prairie dogs and mountain lions are among the animals you might spot. But by far the most commonly sighted are the squirrels, which regularly approach tourists to beg for food. Do not feed them or any wild animal in the park. It is against park regulations and is dangerous for both you and the animal.

Bryce Canyon was named for Ebenezer and Mary Bryce, Mormon pioneers who settled in the area in 1875, but the human history around Bryce Canyon is much older. The Paiute people used the location for seasonal hunting and gathering beginning around 1200 A.D., while there is evidence of Fremont and Anasazi use as early as 200 A.D. Ancient peoples populated the Colorado Plateau as far back as 12,000 years ago, but it is not yet clear whether they ranged as far as Bryce Canyon.

Visitors began pouring in during the early 20th century

In 1915, US Forest Service supervisor J.W. Humphrey viewed Bryce Canyon for the first time. By 1916, he secured government funding to improve the road and add vehicle accessibility at the canyon rim. Local tourists began to visit soon after, staying in tents erected by entrepreneurs eager to cash in on the new market. The first lodge was built in 1920.

Bryce Canyon became a national monument in 1923 and a national park in 1928. In 1930, the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel linked Bryce Canyon with Zion National Park and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Today the park encompasses 35,835 acres and welcomes 1.5 million visitors per year.

Zion to Bryce Canyon

Entering the park

We chose an RV park in Hurricane, Utah, 12 miles from Zion National Park. The park offered a fantastic nightly rate for members of the Thousand Trails membership camping system, so we decided to use it as a base camp for exploring the area. Our drive to Bryce Canyon was approximately three hours, though there are, of course, accommodations available much closer to the park.

The road from Zion to Bryce goes through Zion National Park, and you must pay the admission fee for both parks. As of 2011, the fee for each park is $25 per vehicle, and is valid for seven consecutive days. National park passes admit the pass holder and everyone in the vehicle free of charge.

The tunnel was exciting!

The road goes through the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel. There is no additional fee for standard vehicles to use this tunnel. If you plan to take an RV or other oversized vehicle through the tunnel, however, you must pay an additional $15 for a park escort.

Oversized vehicles, defined as those 11 feet 4 inches or taller, or 7 feet 10 inches or wider, cannot safely navigate the tunnel while remaining within the designated lanes. Therefore, the park service closes the tunnel to opposite-direction traffic while oversized vehicles pass through. The $15 fee is valid for two trips through the tunnel within seven days.

The road through Zion is narrow and winding with steep drop-offs and tight switchbacks. It was a lot of fun, but a bit of a white-knuckle adventure! Pay close attention to speed limit signs, as the speed limits change rapidly as you approach a switchback. Expect delays at the tunnel, particularly during traditional rush hours.

The tunnel was quite an experience! At 1.1 mile long, it was the longest tunnel in the United States when it opened in 1930. Dark and somewhat claustrophobia-inducing, it must be seen to be believed.

At Bryce Canyon

The small museum was very well done

Bryce Canyon National Park is packed with hiking trails and ranger programs. With such a long commute, though, we opted to focus on the scenic drive. A free park shuttle is available during the summer months, but we decided to take our own vehicle. We started at the visitor center, where a free 22-minute film explains the history and geology of this unique area. There are a few museum exhibits, and the friendly park rangers are full of advice and suggestions.

Take the time to stop at the scenic overlooks

The scenic drive is 18 miles in each direction, with a total of 14 overlooks. We drove out to the furthest point first, putting all the scenic pull-offs on our right as we drove back. The furthest overlook, Rainbow Point, is also the highest, at 9,115 feet. Dad has some chronic health conditions including asthma, and 9,000 feet is about the top of his comfort zone. So we walked around a bit and took a few photos, but did not linger too long. The rest of the pull-offs were well under 9,000 feet, and Dad did just fine.

We did not participate in the additional activities such as hiking or horseback riding, and spent approximately three hours exploring the scenic overlooks. Bryce Canyon offers a wide range of hiking options, from easy paved trails of less than a mile to a strenuous 23-mile overnight trek. Expect to add an hour or so to your stay for each mile of hiking. Ranger programs are offered throughout the day, from guided hikes to evening chats. Programs last  45 minutes to several hours.

Tips for Parents

The play of light and shadow are a photographer's dream

Bryce Canyon is completely unlike any other national park we have experienced, including the Grand Canyon. The hoodoos and other rock formations are simply breathtaking, and the visibility in the crisp, clean air is phenomenal. It is not unusual to be able to see 100 miles or more in every direction. The play of light and shadow makes Bryce a photographer’s dream.

If you have the time, consider letting your kids participate in the Junior Ranger program. Workbooks and information are available at the visitor center. Junior Rangers must complete a series of activities including attending at least one ranger program. When they have completed all the requirements, your kids can turn in their workbooks at the visitor center for a free Junior Ranger badge. Patches are available for $1. The badges and patches are unique and can only be obtained by those who have completed the program.

Keep a close eye on your children at all times, especially when hiking the trails. Steep drop-offs and slippery footing create inherent hazards. Do not let kids run ahead or get off the designated trails. Honestly assess everyone’s abilities and choose trails that are appropriate for your entire family.

Carry plenty of water and a few salty snacks. It is often hot and dry at Bryce Canyon, and dehydration is a common ailment. Hats and sunscreen are absolutely essential. Choose sturdy footwear such as hiking boots rather than flip-flops or sandals.

The Grand Canyon Railway was quaint and elegant

The South Rim of the Grand Canyon is served by one major highway–US 64 from Williams, Arizona, an hour to the south. Although the road is well maintained and served by several tiny towns with gas and food, it can get quite crowded during the major tourist seasons. While we made the drive later in our trip and it was fine, for our initial visit we decided to skip the traffic and travel in style. The Grand Canyon Railway offers a scenic and relaxing alternative.

About the Grand Canyon Railway

The train is pretty impressive

Until the late 1800s, traveling to the Grand Canyon meant spending roughly 8 hours each way in an uncomfortable stagecoach from Flagstaff. The ride was expensive and difficult, making it impractical for most travelers. In 1901, a spur line of the cross-country Santa Fe Railroad was built from Williams to the Grand Canyon, opening the canyon as a mass tourist destination for the first time.

The train trip was significantly less expensive than the stagecoach ride, priced at $3.95 instead of $15. In today’s money, that equals $114 rather than $423. Quite a difference in affordability! The train was also much more comfortable, and could complete the trip in only three hours.+

Automobile travel to the canyon was first attempted in 1902, but did not become practical for decades. By the 1960s, however, the interstate system was complete and America was in love with the car. The Grand Canyon Railway closed due to lack of ridership in 1968.

The hotel is rustic yet filled with modern amenities

In 1989, nostalgia for a simpler era was at an all-time high. Entrepreneurs Max and Thelma Biegert rescued the railroad from another company which, having failed in an effort to restore it, had already begun salvaging materials. The Grand Canyon Railway reopened on September 17, 1989, exactly 88 years after its initial run.

Besides the train, today the Grand Canyon Railway offers a full-service hotel and RV park in Williams, and a hotel at the Grand Canyon. You can purchase individual train tickets or create a customized package with accommodations.

Our Visit

The RV park is clean and well-kept

We decided on a two-night stay at the official Grand Canyon Railway RV park in Williams and a same-day roundtrip train ride to the canyon. We checked in at the RV park at around 6 p.m., leaving plenty of time to explore Williams that night. The park is entirely paved and reasonably level. Oversized pull-through sites offer full hookups, including both 50 and 30 amp electric service. Amenities include WiFi, cable TV and a common fire pit. RV park guests are welcome to use the swimming pool and hot tub at the connected hotel. The hotel is reminiscent of an old-fashioned lodge, but packed with modern amenities. Take time to explore the historic pub and the comfortable fireplace seating area even if you do not stay.

The Wild West show was surprisingly fun

Our day on the railroad began early. A free Wild West show takes place by the railroad depot at 9 a.m. The show involves members of the audience and is surprisingly well done. The actors are quite good at what they do, and are happy to pose for pictures and sign autographs after the show. Boarding starts immediately after the show, so arrive early to look around the historic depot, built in 1908.

The Train

First class seating is comfortable and stylish

The Grand Canyon Railway offers four classes of service. Coach class uses traditional 1950s Pullman cars with comfortable bench seating. Snacks and beverages are available for sale in the café cars. As of 2011, Coach class tickets cost $70 roundtrip for adults and $40 roundtrip for children aged 2 to 15. Under age 2 is free.

First class provides a significantly upgraded experience. Individual oversized, padded seats recline, offering the chance to stretch out a bit. On the way to the canyon, a light breakfast buffet consists of pastries, doughnuts and fresh fruit. Orange juice, coffee and sodas are also provided. On the return trip, snacks include an assortment of crackers, cheeses and fresh vegetables, along with sodas and coffee. Full bar service is available at reasonable prices. As of 2011, First class costs $140 roundtrip for adults and $110 roundtrip for children. Under age 2 is free.

If your kids are older, you might consider upgrading to Observation Dome or Parlor Car seating. Both require children to be at least 16 years old. The Observation Domes are located on the second level of the First class cars. In addition to the First class amenities, they offer panoramic viewing and, for those over 21, a champagne toast in the afternoon. The Parlor Car is modeled on the private cars of the old rail barons. Seating is on comfortable sofas and chairs, giving the car the feeling of a lounge. In addition to Observation Dome amenities, the Parlor Car offers a private bar and access to an open-air platform. As of 2011, Observation Dome tickets cost $170 roundtrip, while Parlor Car tickets are $190 roundtrip.

The National Park entrance fee of $8 is added to the cost of each ticket when purchasing online. If you have a National Parks pass, you can receive a refund by showing it at the window when you pick up your tickets.

The Experience

The breakfast was light but filling

Dad and I were seated in First class, as it is the highest level of service open to all ages. Our car attendant showed us to our seats, where a printed Grand Canyon guide was waiting for us. The ride is fully narrated, but our attendant took advantage of downtime to make personalized recommendations for things to do at the canyon.

The breakfast buffet opened as soon as we departed, and we spent the first half-hour watching the scenery and enjoying the food. Soon a strolling musician appeared, followed by a Wild West gunfighter. The entertainers make their way through the train; each is assigned to cover several cars. In the First class cars, they go to the Observation Dome before the First class seats, so you may hear some the act before they reach you. However, the entertainers are highly skilled and this in no way detracted from the experience.

The two hour and fifteen minute ride passed surprisingly quickly. There was a lot to see as the terrain changed from pine forest to desert and back again. Our car attendant pointed out animals along the way, supplementing the general narration. There are restrooms in every car.

At the Grand Canyon

The log cabin depot is one of only three still in existence

The train arrives at the canyon promptly at 11:45 a.m. The historic depot was built in 1910. It was one of only 14 depots constructed of logs and is one of only three that are still standing. It is the only log cabin depot that still serves an active railroad.

The depot is located at the base of Grand Canyon Village, a town of roughly 1,460 people dedicated to Grand Canyon tourism. The earliest settlers were entrepreneurs interested in making a quick buck off tourists arriving at the depot. They offered tents, food and souvenirs, and lived in whatever space they could find. Gradually the tourist industry became more regulated, permanent housing structures were built, and hotels replaced the tents. Today the village is an eclectic mix of interesting historic sites, sweeping views of the canyon, high-end restaurants, snack stands, elegant hotels and fascinating shops. A visitor center provides more information on this quaint area.

The canyon overlooks are stunning

Since we were returning to Williams on the afternoon train, we had only three hours and fifteen minutes at the canyon. Rather than striking out for more distant parts of the South Rim and risking missing the train, we opted to spend the afternoon in the village. Pick up a free walking tour brochure at the visitor center if you choose to explore the village. The area is less than two miles long, but there is quite a lot to see. Just make sure you leave time to actually enjoy the canyon views!

There are steep steps from the train depot to the village. However, a free shuttle van for guests with disabilities runs frequently throughout the day. Although it is primarily used for those traveling in a wheelchair, Dad was offered a ride due to his using a cane. Although he declined, we thought the gesture was wonderful.

The Return Trip

The train robbery was great fun!

Boarding for the return trip begins at 3:15, and the train leaves promptly at 3:30. The snack buffet was ready to go as soon as we departed. Although it would not replace a meal, it was quite welcome after a long afternoon!

There was significantly less narration on the return journey, although the car attendants remained available to answer questions. Another strolling musician, equally talented, came along partway through the trip to serenade us. Everyone relaxed, chatting quietly or even catching a short nap.

But don’t get too comfortable! Before we knew it, the train slowed to a stop. Normally at this point, you can see outlaws on horseback out the train windows. This portion was cancelled on the day of our trip, though, due to unusually heavy rains that created dangerously slippery mud.

Soon we heard an announcement that the outlaws had boarded the train! They would soon be making their way through the cars taking “donations.” Of course, modern society being what it is, the narrator was careful to stress that this was not a real train robbery and participation was entirely optional. “Please don’t take out your cell phones and call Homeland Security. We’ve actually had that happen before!”

As the outlaws neared our train car, our attendant encouraged us to play it up a bit. At his suggestion, various people in our car placed dollar bills behind their ears, tucked them into their glasses, or nestled them in their suspenders. Part of the game is for the outlaws to locate the cash.

The outlaws were great, playing up the robbery to the hilt, but keeping it light and fun rather than scary. Have your camera ready, as there were several wonderful photo opportunities!

Tips for Parents

Some trails are rocky and uneven

The Grand Canyon Railway experience is well worth the cost. The professional staff and highly skilled entertainers created an atmosphere of fun, rather than the stress associated with driving. With so much to see, there is no time for kids (or adults) to get bored. You are permitted to walk through the train, allowing everyone the chance to stretch their legs. The train is wheelchair-accessible via a lift, but you must make arrangements in advance.

Three hours is not enough time to see the Grand Canyon. Either book a package with an overnight stay at the canyon, or take the train solely for the experience of the train itself. We opted to return to the canyon on our own at a later date, which worked out well. On the day of your train trip, stick close to Grand Canyon Village. Although there are free shuttle buses throughout the park, seeing one area in depth is much more fun than constantly looking at your watch and wondering whether you can get back on time.

Keep a close eye on your children at the canyon. While some overlooks have guard rails, others do not. The terrain is often uneven and rocky, and some areas have steep steps. Although accidents are rare, it is best to err on the side of caution.

Kitsch was everywhere in Gatlinburg, and Pigeon Forge, where this Wonderworks attraction was located.

In order to reach this old fashioned, traffic filled, tourist town abutting the Great Smoky Mountain National Park, you have to drive off Route 40 and down through a more modern tourist enclave called Pigeon Forge, home of Dollywood, and Dollywood’s Splash Country – Dolly Parton’s down home answer to Disneyland. Here we discovered an enormous eye catching upside down building called Wonderwork, the facade to a giant games arcade with massive amounts of screaming happy children.

So am I recommending these activities to families? Well, if crowds, kitsch, and mid-range motels, buffet dinners and definitely not ready for Broadway dinner theater appeals – Pigeon Forge is the capital!

We came for the national park, and chose Gatlinburg as a closer stay. Years ago, family relatives had settled in on rocking chairs at boarding houses in Gatlinburg, and oddly enough, you’ll see some old fashioned hotels, with rockers on the porches, still located in town. We stayed at the modern Hilton Garden Inn just off the main drag. The rooms are not large, but all the amenities are in place, and the small hotel dining room offered the best food choices for us. If you like foot long hot dogs and corn on the cob on sticks, there are plenty of other choices in town.

We dined first, having arrived late in the day out of Nashville, and then set off to explore the town on foot. We found that although Gatlinburg may be a small town and have somewhat small town attractions, they’re not inexpensive. I spent as much on the Mystery Theater and Ripley’s Believe it Or Not Museum here as I would’ve on an off Broadway play and dinner in New York. But I’m not really complaining. It was an experience we enjoyed and… probably won’t repeat.

The Mystery Theater – not much of a mystery. They tell you a ghost story, unrealistic mannequins and a stage set fall into darkness while a ghost story is told via recording. The kitsch made it amusing, but you can scratch that one off your list. Not so Ripleys. Although a chain, Ripley’s has always been fun, and offers unique, bizarre exhibits everywhere. I’ve let my kids persuade me to pay for exploring one of these attractions – Jackson Hole, Wyoming, Key West, Florida, home in LA, and in Gatlinburg. We especially enjoyed climbing into the giant chair that made us look like Thumbelina’s relatives. After seeing headless men and chambers of horrors (avoid the latter with smaller children), we were ready for some cotton candy, slightly oily fudge, famous sticky taffy, and a good look at the enormous collection of tee shirt stores that fill Gatlinburg’s main drag.

We loved splashing through puddles in this rainy National Park.

In the morning we headed into the park. Great Smoky Mountain National Park is misty with fog, has spectacular views and is green and wet. Over eight hundred miles long, the park has over fifty five inches of rainfall a year, even at lower elevations, thirty inches more at the top. Bring your rain poncho, regardless of the season. U.S. Highway 441 cuts through the park, providing access to many look out points and trail heads. Newfound Gap is in the center of the park, and it was here in 1940 that President Roosevelt dedicated the national park. Another historic part of the park is Cades Cove, a lovely valley that contains historic town buildings established before the community was absorbed into the park. The valley contains a number of log structures that our kids enjoyed exploring.  The John Oliver Cabin, both the Baptist and Methodist church and their adjacent cemeteries are well worth exploring. Our favorite was the Myers Barn.

At the other end of the park, we enjoyed look out points around and access to part of the Appalachian trail. Kids of all ages will enjoy the excitement of vast, forest filled views coming in and out of focus through mist and cloud. The park has a magical, lush green feeling that our kids really enjoyed – and be warned, our kids also greatly enjoyed splashing through puddles. If you’re driving a rental car instead of a family car on a cross country drive, you won’t mind the puddles as much.

Puddles splashed through, we also took a short hike at Clingman Dome, the highest elevation in the park. We walked out to the observation deck and after a passing rain shower, were rewarded with a grand view of tree, forest, hills and a rainbow. The park is almost entirely forested with old growth trees that were here long before European settlers arrived in America, and long before Gatlinburg began selling fudge to tourists.

The petroglyph site is well worth a visit

The Three Rivers Petroglyph Site is in the middle of nowhere, along Highway 54 between Carrizozo and Tularosa, New Mexico. Managed by the Bureau of Land Management, the site’s tiny budget does not leave room for a Visitor Center, gift shop or restaurant. But there are clean restrooms and a small ranger station staffed by extremely helpful and friendly volunteers. Approximately 30 minutes from Carrizozo or Alamogordo, the site is well worth a visit.

The Petroglyphs

The petroglyphs are a 1,000 year old mystery

Petroglyphs are a form of rock art. As opposed to pictographs, which are painted on rocks, petroglyphs are actually carved or etched into the rock’s surface. The petroglyphs at Three Rivers were created between 900 and 1400 AD by Jornada Mogollon Native Americans, ancestors of the modern Hopi and other Pueblo peoples.

The purpose of the petroglyphs and the choice of location remain a hotly debated mystery. Perhaps this was a sacred site, a conjunction of trade routes, or simply a scenic lookout point. Some have even postulated that the petroglyphs were a children’s art project. Whatever the reason for them, the petroglyphs are stunningly beautiful.

Our Experience

The hosts were extremely helpful

The road to the petroglyph site is well marked but quite desolate. A left turn into the site leads to a gravel parking lot with a few RV sites, a small building with modern restroom facilities and a tiny trailer that serves as the park office. If the office is closed, you can pay your entrance fee at an outdoor station.

As of 2011, admission to the site is $2 per vehicle. National Park Service passes are honored. The hosts were quite helpful, providing a map of the site and an admonition to carry plenty of water. It was 98 Fahrenheit when we began our hike, and well over 100 by the time we finished. The sun was beating down with no clouds in sight, and the humidity was less than 10 percent. Water was definitely a requirement!

The hiking trail is rugged and steep

The self-guided hike begins with a short, flat path to a wheelchair-accessible set of mounted binoculars. The rest of the one mile roundtrip trail up the side of the mountain is steep, rugged, rocky and fairly strenuous. I looked doubtfully at Dad, who has a few health conditions and walks with a cane, but his face was determined. As it turned out, he did just fine–a few moments of huffing and puffing along the way, and some back pain that evening, but nothing he couldn’t handle.

Many of the best glyphs are off the main trail

The petroglyphs are scattered along both sides of the trail. As the ranger explained to us, there are more than 21,000 petroglyphs at the site, of which only 11 are marked on the map. While most parks require visitors to stay on the marked paths, this one actually encourages you to get off the trail. Many of the best glyphs are nearly impossible to see from the path. Of course, taking any artifacts is against federal law. Be careful to avoid touching the glyphs, as they can be damaged by handling.

The Hike

Watch your footing when leaving the trail

The trail has changed little in 1,000 years. There are no handrails, smooth grades or other modern “finished” elements. There is a steep drop off the mountain on one side, and loose rocks on the other. Several spots require you to pick your footing carefully, to avoid tripping or slipping. Although it sounds a bit scary, no rock climbing or other special skills are required. Plenty of tourists of all ages make the climb each day. Just use caution and avoid getting so caught up in photography that you forget to watch where you’re going!

The glyphs are surprisingly detailed

There is a short climb before you reach the actual petroglyphs. We found it easiest to stick to the trail until we reached the first marked glyph, to orient ourselves and provide a guide to what we were looking for. Once we were comfortable with the trail and the glyphs, we began going off-trail a bit. Not being experienced climbers or hikers, though, we did not roam too far. If you are used to the mountains, you may want to go further afield, discovering glyphs that we never saw.

The shelter at the top of the trail is a great place to relax

We found several level spots along the trail that were great places to stop, catch our breath and drink some water. We found that one 16 ounce bottle of water each was just enough water, though if we do it again we might take along a third bottle to share. At the summit of the marked trail is a small shelter with benches. This is a terrific spot to stop and relax, enjoy the mountain overviews, or let the kids play.

You can continue up the mountain past the shelter. There are few petroglyphs on that segment, but some people claim that they are some of the best. As it was the end of the marked trail, though, Dad and I opted to head back down. You can loop around the other side of the glyphs on the return trip, finding glyphs that were not obvious on the way up.

It took us nearly two hours to do the full trail, but we were stopping every few feet for photographs. At a moderate walking pace with few stops, you could easily finish in an hour or so. There is an old village ruin a short distance from the parking area, but the rangers explained that there is literally nothing left. They showed us photos of the site, and we decided not to explore it.

Tips for Parents

The images are sometimes abstract

The petroglyphs are spectacular, and it was great fun trying to imagine the story behind various glyphs. Why was that image created? Who made it? What was he or she trying to say? Some images are clearly of something specific, such as a ram or a bird or a person, while others are more abstract. We enjoyed trying to decide what some of the abstract images might be.

Although the terrain is tricky, it is relatively safe. Discuss safety tips and ground rules before your visit and do not allow kids to run or play on the rocks. Keep them with you or slightly ahead of you, where you can pay attention to their movements. Dress appropriately for the weather and carry plenty of water, along with a few snacks. It is virtually impossible to get lost, but you may get wrapped up in the petroglyphs and spend more time than you anticipated. Sunscreen and a hat can help prevent painful burns in the desert sun.

The road to Carlsbad Caverns is winding and quite scenic

New Mexico’s Carlsbad Caverns National Park is the third largest cave system in the United States and arguably one of the best-known. I am a bit of a cave nut, so when Dad and I planned a Southwestern adventure, Carlsbad Caverns was one of my must-do attractions. We visited just days before a wildfire raged in the nearby canyon, threatening the historic Natural Entrance and park buildings and closing the cave for several days. Thankfully, no permanent damage was done and the Caverns are again open for business.

About Carlsbad Caverns

We stayed in gorgeous but desolate Lakewood, New Mexico

Dad and I stayed in Lakewood, New Mexico, a ghost town with a very lively RV park, approximately 30 minutes from downtown Carlsbad. The Caverns are 23 miles from Carlsbad. The tiny town of White’s City offers lodging, an RV park, dining and shopping near the entrance road to Carlsbad Caverns National Park. The seven-mile park entrance road is both scenic and extremely winding. Numerous pull-offs are provided, allowing you to park your car off the road and enjoy the scenery.

Carlsbad Caverns is breathtaking

Carlsbad Caverns offer quite a few different tour options. The Big Room is the best-known and most popular cave in the system and is accessible by elevator or via the steep but beautiful Natural Entrance. The Big Room tour is entirely self-guided. Ranger-guided tours include the one-mile, moderately strenuous King’s Palace; the lantern-lit Left Hand Tunnel; the ladder-accessed Lower Cave; and the extremely challenging Slaughter Canyon Cave, Hall of the White Giant, and Spider Cave tours. Dad and I selected the Big Room and King’s Palace tours.

Carlsbad Caverns is also known for its population of Mexican free-tail bats. Each night from late spring through early fall, approximately 400,000 bats fly from the Caverns in search of dinner. A free narrated program is offered at sunset in the outdoor amphitheater. The bats were late returning from Mexico this year, so Dad and I were unable to see the flight.

As of 2011, basic admission to the Caverns, which includes the self-guided Big Room tour, is $6 for adults and free for those aged 15 and under. Tickets are valid for three consecutive days. Those with National Park Service passes are admitted free. Prices and minimum age requirements vary for the ranger-guided tours. Visit the Carlsbad Caverns website or call ahead for details.

Our Experience

The Visitor Center restaurant was pricey but good

Dad and I arrived at approximately 11 a.m. We booked tickets for the 3 p.m. King’s Palace tour and decided to have lunch and look around the Visitor Center before descending into the Big Room. The restaurant offers sandwiches and salads at predictably high prices, but the portions are large enough to share and the quality was good.

After lunch, we took in the orientation film. Interestingly, unlike many caves that are formed by running water, Carlsbad Caverns was formed by sulfuric acid created by the interaction of underground gas and oil with surface water. The film was followed by a short ranger presentation on the guano miners. As it turns out, the Carlsbad Caverns bats provided an immense amount of guano (droppings), which miners gathered and sold for fertilizer in the 1800s. The first guided tours of the Caverns were accessed via guano buckets! Today the portion of the cave used by the bats is not accessible to the public, though ancient guano deposits are visible in parts of the Big Room.

Everywhere we looked was another fascinating view

We rented audio guides for $3 each from the Visitor Center bookstore and descended into the Big Room at approximately 1 p.m. I highly recommend the audio guides for a more thorough exploration of the Caverns. The major formations are labeled with signs, but the audio guides provide additional details.

The Big Room path is 1.25 miles in length and takes an average of one to two hours to complete. An optional shortcut path cuts the total length in half. A somewhat shortened wheelchair path is available. The rugged Natural Entrance is an additional 1.25 miles and descends a total of 79 stories. Those in reasonably good shape should be able to complete the Natural Entrance trail in roughly one hour. There is no wheelchair access for the Natural Entrance or any ranger-guided cave tour.

Big Room

The massive Big Room was aptly named

Dad and I opted to take the elevator rather than the Natural Entrance to the Big Room. Your ears will pop from the rapid descent and chewing gum is not permitted, so be prepared! The elevator opens just outside the Underground Restaurant, a snack and beverage stand where the guided tours meet and the self-guided Big Room tour begins.

The Big Room is just spectacular! It is the biggest known cave chamber in the Western Hemisphere at 600,000 square feet. The walking path wanders around hundreds of elegant and delicate formations of every description. Most of the formations were created during the last Ice Age and are now inactive, but just enough water seeps through the desert ground above to keep a few formations actively growing.

The cave was filled with beautiful colors

We had a rather bizarre experience during our stroll. As the Big Room path takes one to two hours and we entered at 1 p.m., we expected to finish the walk with enough time to get a snack at the Underground Restaurant before our 3 p.m. King’s Palace tour. About a quarter of the way through the cave, I retrieved my cell phone from my pocket to check the time. According to Sprint, the time was 2 p.m.! We had taken our time a bit, stopping to adjust camera settings and working to get excellent photos, but we were still quite surprised. We picked up the pace, but barely made it to the King’s Palace meeting location before 3 p.m. Sprint time.

Imagine our surprise when the ranger approached the gathered group and stated clearly that it was time for the 2 p.m. tour to begin! Somehow the Caverns caused my cell phone to switch time zones. We still had an hour left, so after a quick snack we headed back into the Big Room to finish our audio tour. Lesson learned. Digital equipment can react weirdly with the cave environment, so always wear an analog watch.

King’s Palace

The King's Palace tour descent, and later ascent, is eight stories

The King’s Palace tour is the least strenuous of the ranger-guided tours. The 1.5 hour, one mile tour visits four large chambers in the deepest publicly-accessible part of the Caverns. The total descent is eight stories, which you must then ascend at the end of the tour. The route to the King’s Palace follows part of the Natural Entrance route, allowing you to see some of those formations as well.

Our tour guide was a wonderful storyteller

Our guide was an excellent storyteller, drawing children and adults alike into a narrative about the cave’s discoverer, Jim White. She provided a great deal of interesting information on the formations as well. Perhaps the most exciting part of any cave tour is the blackout, and this was no exception. Our group settled along a low stone wall on the edge of the walkway as our guide related stories about lighting in the cave’s early days. Then she asked us to turn off all glowing electronic equipment before flipping the switch to turn out the lights.

You haven’t experienced total darkness until you’ve experienced it in a cave! Your eyes will fight to adjust, vainly searching for any ambient light. Your other senses are dramatically heightened, hyper-alert to the movements of your fellow tourists or your guide.

Eventually our ranger lit a small, dim light, casting eerie shadows on the walls. As our eyes adjusted, she spun more tales of early cave explorations. Once we were adjusted, she restored the main cave lighting and we continued on our way. It was a very cool experience, and a good bit longer than the blackouts we’ve experienced at other caves.

Tips for Parents

The delicate formations are fascinating to all ages

Carlsbad Caverns is a top destination for visitors of all ages. The Big Room is open to all, though strollers are not permitted. The King’s Palace tour is relatively easy, but more challenging than the Big Room, and children must be at least 4 years old to participate. The other guided tours are more strenuous and have higher minimum age requirements.

The Caverns are 56 degrees F and humid year-round. Being from the muggy Deep South, Dad and I were thrilled for a few hours of humidity after the intensely dry air of the surrounding desert. Those who come from drier climates, however, may feel clammy and wet, and the humidity could trigger asthma attacks or breathing difficulties in those who are prone to them. We were okay without jackets, but children could get cold.

Plan to spend the better part of a day exploring the park. The scenic entrance road, extensive Visitor Center, and numerous cave tour options make Carlsbad Caverns a true destination. Keep a close eye on your kids in the cave, where walkways can be slippery. Outside, however, there is plenty of room to play and burn off steam.

No food or beverages are permitted inside the cave, except plain water. Plan to stop for lunch or snacks at the Underground Restaurant or the upstairs Visitor Center eatery. Taking frequent breaks can keep everyone’s energy up and moods relaxed.

The Carlsbad Caverns were featured on Tots and Travel’s 5 Top National Parks for Families.

Robert Goddard's 1914 rocket patents set the stage for the atomic age

Southern New Mexico is an interesting study in contrasts. Barely had the Old West died out, its outlaws and lawmen dead or too old to continue fighting, before the atomic age began. Although the atomic age officially started with the detonation of the first nuclear bombs in Japan during World War II, the groundwork was being laid as early as 1914 by future New Mexico resident Robert H. Goddard. That year he filed two patents, one for a multistage rocket and one for a liquid-fueled rocket.

New Mexico is filled with sweeping open land dotted by small towns and, today, a handful of big cities. It was and is a natural spot for testing unproven aircraft, spacecraft and weapons without endangering anyone. Today, vast swaths of New Mexico belong to the United States military, including the White Sands Missile Range, where the atomic bomb was initially tested before deployment to Japan.

The gypsum dunes are breathtaking

Meanwhile, southern New Mexico holds another surprise. Giant sand dunes, created not from quartz but from gypsum crystals, are particularly rare because gypsum is water-soluble. In most cases, gypsum dust melts in the rain and is carried out to sea. But New Mexico’s Tularosa Basin is fully enclosed. High in the arid Chihuahuan Desert, the area receives little rain. What rain does fall it settles into the ground or collects in pools that quickly dry out, allowing the gypsum to remain. The gypsum dunes are contained within White Sands National Monument.

White Sands National Monument

The adobe visitor center dates to the 1930s

While spending a few days in nearby Alamogordo, Dad and I decided to visit both sections of White Sands. Dad was disappointed to learn that the Trinity Site, where the atomic bomb test occurred, is open to the public only two days per year, but was happy to learn about the Missile Museum. We began our trip at White Sands National Monument.

As of 2011, entrance to the park costs $3 per person. Children aged 15 and under are free. National Park Service passes are honored. Admission, valid for seven consecutive days, includes the Dunes Drive, sunset ranger program and most special events.

The historic adobe visitor center, which dates to the mid-1930s, was closed for renovations during our visit. A temporary visitor center was set up in a trailer, and the rangers went out of their way to be helpful, but we were not able to access the museum exhibits. Instead, we focused on the Dunes Drive, a sixteen-mile roundtrip through the dune field.

The sleds are also known as sand discs

You can buy or rent a sled at the gift shop if you would like to go sledding down the massive dunes. The sleds are round plastic discs, available in both child and adult sizes. Although it sounded like fun, the temperature was 108 F on the day of our visit. Dad and I decided to stay in the air-conditioned car, but we did see several people of all ages enjoying the sleds.

Only a portion of the Dunes Drive is paved. The unpaved trails are relatively rough, but safe for vehicles. Despite Dad’s initial misgivings, four wheel drive is not necessary. But the speed limit is low and, at times, you may want to drive considerably more slowly. In addition, you will probably want to stop and read historical markers, walk the boardwalk, or take photos. Plan to spend at least a couple of hours enjoying the dunes.

White Sands Missile Museum

Missiles could have been launched from these simple but effective computers

About a half-hour drive from the National Monument, the White Sands Missile Museum is staffed by volunteers and open irregular hours. Call ahead or inquire at the National Monument before making the drive.

As the museum is located on an active missile range, security is understandably tight. You must present your driver’s license, registration and proof of insurance to security, and your vehicle may be searched. There are extremely specific restrictions on photography, so ask for information when you enter the base. In addition, it is illegal to photograph the missile range from the public roadway. If you like to take scenic mountain photos, pay close attention to the signage throughout the region.

Seeing an atomic bomb casing up close is creepy

Admission to the museum and connected Missile Park is free. The indoor exhibits present a fairly detailed overview of the missile range’s history. Small rockets and early control equipment are among the highlights. Outside, Missile Park is filled with items from every era. Perhaps the most fascinating, yet terrifying, is the Fat Man Bomb Casing. This is the atomic bomb that was dropped on Japan in 1945.

In a separate building is a V-2 rocket. The V-2 was originally developed by Germany for use in World War II. After the war, many of Germany’s best scientists moved to the United States, bringing the V-2 with them. The rocket was a proving ground for experiments that eventually led to the American manned space program.

Tips for Parents

The picnic shelters are a great place to relax

Both the National Monument and the Missile Museum are endlessly fascinating for most kids. There are quite a few historical signs, so parents may wish to read and summarize them for younger children. But with plenty to look at, room to play, and the opportunity to go sledding in the desert heat, how could any child resist?

There are no public dining facilities at either location, and the nearest towns are a bit of a trek, so pack plenty of snacks and drinks. Picnic shelters are readily available throughout the National Monument, so consider packing a full lunch. Remember that this part of the country is exceptionally hot and dry, so encourage everyone to drink plenty of water. Sunscreen and a hat are absolutely essential if you plan to spend much time on the dunes. Incidentally, if you wear sunglasses, be sure to take them off at some point while at the National Monument. Dad was shocked to discover that the “brown” dunes he had seen all day were actually a brilliant white!