This shop blends Route 66 kitsch with Old West style

Williams, Arizona, is often known as the “Gateway to the Grand Canyon.” The South Rim of the Grand Canyon is just an hour from Williams by car, or two hours on the elegant Grand Canyon Railway. A thriving tourist town, Williams is also home to roughly 3,000 year-round residents. Dad and I visited twice during the summer of 2011, once as part of our Grand Canyon Railway package and again on our own to further explore the Canyon.

About Williams

Historic Route 66 runs through the center of town

The town of Williams was settled in 1881 and incorporated in 1901. It is named for “Old Bill” Williams, a local trapper and explorer, for whom nearby Williams Mountain is also named. Historic Route 66, established in 1926 and fully paved by 1938, ran directly through downtown Williams. Bypassed by Interstate 40 in 1984, one year before Route 66 was officially decommissioned, Williams has the distinction of being the last town bypassed by the interstate highway system.

Although Route 66 has been officially off the books since 1985, historic preservationists have worked tirelessly to preserve what remains. In 1999, preservationists got a huge boost from then-President Bill Clinton, who provided $10 million in matching grants through the National Route 66 Preservation Bill. Many towns celebrate their Route 66 heritage, and Williams is no exception. A well-maintained two-mile loop still serves as Williams’ version of Main Street.

The nightly gunfights are a particular highlight

Despite its love for Route 66, Williams never forgets that it is also part of the Old West. Cowboys and gunslingers played an important role in the area’s early history, and they are celebrated with equal fervor in Williams today. Williams is the only town we’ve seen where nightly Wild West gunfights take place outside 1950s diners!

Williams sits well over a mile high, at an elevation of 6,770 feet. Those with breathing problems or other health conditions might have difficulty acclimating to the height. Take it easy and plan for plenty of rest breaks, particularly during your first day or two in town. Assuming that you have no problems with the elevation, however, Williams is an eminently walkable small town.

What to Do in Williams

The last stoplight on Route 66

The Grand Canyon is the major draw for visitors to Williams Arizona, and it can easily take two or three days to scratch the surface of all that the Canyon has to offer. Like any tourist town, though, Williams offers plenty of excitement to add an extra day or two to your Grand Canyon experience. Horseback riding, the Planes of Fame museum and the Bearizona drive-through wildlife park are all highly recommended, but we simply ran out of time. Instead, we turned our attention to the shops and restaurants of downtown Williams.

Our first stop was the Visitor Center. In addition to the normal maps and vacation planning materials, the Visitor Center is also home to a small but surprisingly well-done museum. The displays trace the history of Williams from the earliest peoples through today, with a decided focus on the glory days of Route 66. If you’ve ever wanted to see the last Route 66 stoplight or peruse old maps and tourist brochures, this free museum is a definite must-see.

The depot is fun and free to visit

The Grand Canyon Railway depot is also worth seeing, even if you do not take the train ride. Opened in 1908 by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad, the depot once included a Harvey House Hotel with 43 guest rooms. Founded by Fred Harvey in 1870, the Harvey House chain was well-known throughout the American Southwest for impeccable cleanliness, excellent food and top-notch service provided by the charming and wholesome Harvey Girls. Today the train depot has been meticulously restored. A large, well-stocked gift shop offers a wide variety of local souvenirs.

By far, our favorite activity in Williams was the nightly gunfight. The fights occur in the early evening at various spots along Route 66, so pick up a list of places and times at your hotel or campground. The free show is decidedly silly, but a lot of fun.

The streets of Williams are lined with kitschy shops and roadside diners, so be sure to leave ample time in your schedule to simply explore. We enjoyed dining at Twisters so much that we had dinner there during both visits. The family-owned diner is sure to take you back to the 1950s. Gleaming red and white accented by neon signage made me feel like I was in the Shake Shop from The Patty Duke Show. The menu is largely traditional diner fare such as hamburgers, hot dogs and onion rings, as well as an extensive list of ice cream options. But vegetarians and those who prefer a more substantial dinner will not be disappointed. The food was fresh and tasty and prices were reasonable.

Tips for Parents

Twisters reminded me of the Shake Shop from The Patty Duke Show!

Williams is a tourist town and priced accordingly. Gas, in particular, is extremely expensive. If possible, fill your tank before you arrive. The shops sell a mind-boggling array of souvenirs from kitschy to collectable, so set a budget in advance and try to stick with it.

Despite the plethora of tourists, Williams is a clean, safe small town. Keep an eye on your kids as you would in any tourist destination, but allow them the freedom to play and explore. If you have time, amble down to the railroad tracks to experience the “Williams traffic jam” in the morning or afternoon–when the Grand Canyon Railway rolls through, three or four cars get backed up at the tracks! Slow down, relax, and enjoy the laid-back way of life.

It’s a large park, and you can simply drive along the south rim and stop at the many, varied, tourist-busy view points. And that’s a truly rewarding experience in and of itself. When my son was less than three, we came to the Grand Canyon in snow. We stayed in a motel in Williams, AZ, near the Grand Canyon Deer Farm, and he was really perfectly happy just feeding the deer. But we persisted, into the park we went, and he had the snowball tossing experience of a lifetime – throwing a few soft white orbs down into “infinity and beyond,” to quote Buzz Lightyear, then a big favorite. Just a few stops made the Grand Canyon special – and easy – for both parents and children.

A look at the Grand Canyon near the Desert View look out point.

Tips From Our Grand Canyon Visit

We’ve spent weekends on the North Rim in a cabin, we’ve taken hikes, and seen the Canyon from all angles since then. But here’s a primer on exploring with small children and avoiding some of the crowds, even at peak Canyon season. If you arrive in the late fall or winter months, you’ll avoid a lot of the crowds to begin with, but even in summer, you can steer clear of the busiest Canyon spots. In October, with aspen trees in fall array, you’ll find relatively mild temperatures, and fewer visitors – the best of both worlds. However, that first Canyon trip with snow lining the rim – pretty spectacular, and although the roads were cleared, we had some solo time at several overlooks.

Regardless of the time of year you arrive, here’s an arrival tip. Rather than heading straight off U.S. 40, try Highway 89 North. We’ve always come in this way. This will take you to the less hectic East Entrance, and the Cameron Trading Post. The Post is a great place for some inexpensive lunch under a very cool hammered tin ceiling, in a comfortable dining spot. Our kids loved the Navajo tacos: you can have them with meat or just veggies on home made and delicious puffy fry bread. Along with lunch, you can buy souvenirs here, too, a great variety of trinkets and post cards and clothing options at reasonable prices. A few small toys will entertain between view points, and put an end to clamoring for souvenirs later. Then enter the park – and take a look at less frequented overlooks, such as the Little Colorado River Gorge before heading to the first of the major view points you’ll reach from this direction, Desert View, Grandview Point, and Moran Point.

Heading closer to the main South Rim entrance, you’ll find more and more amazing views, and larger crowds, too. If your tots can be back pack carried, or your children are a bit older, consider a short hike down the Kaibab Trail. The trail to Cedar Ridge is just three roundtrip miles, and offers a stellar view of the canyon, without being challenging.

A view of the Colorado River from the South Rim - near the east entrance

Another great walk is from the access road parking lot to Shoshone Point. This is only a three quarter of a mile trail, and it’s flat and forested, leading to a lovely view point, that’s rarely crowded.

We also like taking a stroll through the natural history museum at Yavapai Point. This small museum has a lot of great information about the geology, flora and fauna of the Grand Canyon area. You can also join ranger led short hikes here, or take a guided tour through the museum, and show the kids exactly what they’re looking at in terms of the earth’s layers, and ecology.

On a recent visit, we also climbed the tower at Desert View – hold onto the kid’s hands, and they’ll be fine on the stairs – for a great look across the slightly hazy expanse of the canyon as its many beautiful colors faded at sunset. Another great spot for sunset viewing is the porch behind Bright Angel Lodge – where the kids can also get ice cream or hot chocolate.

This is also an awesome and safe spot to watch the Canyon slip into moonlit darkness, and see the stars pop out.

Bright Angel offers reasonably priced accommodations – for a National Park concessionaire any way, but the rooms are small. Convenience can’t be beat, but we’ve frequently stayed outside the park. In Williams, Flagstaff, or farther afield, in Sedona. Our favorite place to stay is back at the Cameron Trading Post. The adjoining motel features rooms that are large, clean, reasonably priced, and many come with a creek or Little Colorado River gorge view. Once the restaurant closes at night, there’s little to do – except star gaze, play a board game with your family, and tuck in early for another full day of short trails and long views at the Grand Canyon.

Bryce Canyon is visually stunning

When Dad and I decided to spend the summer of 2011 exploring the American Southwest, we had a few specific destinations in mind. Near the top of the list were the best-known national parks in Utah — Zion, Arches and Bryce Canyon. For a variety of reasons, our visit to Utah was significantly delayed, but when we finally made it to Bryce Canyon in September, it turned out to be well worth the wait.

About Bryce Canyon

The tall pinnacles are known as hoodoos

Technically speaking, Bryce Canyon is not a canyon at all. Canyons are carved by rivers, while Bryce Canyon was carved by an endless cycle of freezing and thawing. As the official website points out, though, “the world’s biggest pothole” just doesn’t have the same ring to it.

Once covered by a vast body of water, the rocks of Bryce Canyon began rising approximately 15 million years ago as part of the Colorado Plateau. Roughly 8 million years ago, the Bryce Canyon area broke off to form the Paunsaugunt Plateau. Since then, the rocks have been shaped by ice and snow.

Approximately 200 days each year feature temperatures warm enough to melt the ice and snow during the day, only to refreeze at night. The constant expansion and contraction chisel and shape the rock formations, creating vast pinnacles known as hoodoos. Over time, the hoodoos erode, eventually collapsing altogether.

Humans have occupied the area since at least 200 A.D.

Bryce Canyon is home to nearly 40 species of animals including birds, mammals and reptiles. Pronghorns, Utah prairie dogs and mountain lions are among the animals you might spot. But by far the most commonly sighted are the squirrels, which regularly approach tourists to beg for food. Do not feed them or any wild animal in the park. It is against park regulations and is dangerous for both you and the animal.

Bryce Canyon was named for Ebenezer and Mary Bryce, Mormon pioneers who settled in the area in 1875, but the human history around Bryce Canyon is much older. The Paiute people used the location for seasonal hunting and gathering beginning around 1200 A.D., while there is evidence of Fremont and Anasazi use as early as 200 A.D. Ancient peoples populated the Colorado Plateau as far back as 12,000 years ago, but it is not yet clear whether they ranged as far as Bryce Canyon.

Visitors began pouring in during the early 20th century

In 1915, US Forest Service supervisor J.W. Humphrey viewed Bryce Canyon for the first time. By 1916, he secured government funding to improve the road and add vehicle accessibility at the canyon rim. Local tourists began to visit soon after, staying in tents erected by entrepreneurs eager to cash in on the new market. The first lodge was built in 1920.

Bryce Canyon became a national monument in 1923 and a national park in 1928. In 1930, the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel linked Bryce Canyon with Zion National Park and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Today the park encompasses 35,835 acres and welcomes 1.5 million visitors per year.

Zion to Bryce Canyon

Entering the park

We chose an RV park in Hurricane, Utah, 12 miles from Zion National Park. The park offered a fantastic nightly rate for members of the Thousand Trails membership camping system, so we decided to use it as a base camp for exploring the area. Our drive to Bryce Canyon was approximately three hours, though there are, of course, accommodations available much closer to the park.

The road from Zion to Bryce goes through Zion National Park, and you must pay the admission fee for both parks. As of 2011, the fee for each park is $25 per vehicle, and is valid for seven consecutive days. National park passes admit the pass holder and everyone in the vehicle free of charge.

The tunnel was exciting!

The road goes through the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel. There is no additional fee for standard vehicles to use this tunnel. If you plan to take an RV or other oversized vehicle through the tunnel, however, you must pay an additional $15 for a park escort.

Oversized vehicles, defined as those 11 feet 4 inches or taller, or 7 feet 10 inches or wider, cannot safely navigate the tunnel while remaining within the designated lanes. Therefore, the park service closes the tunnel to opposite-direction traffic while oversized vehicles pass through. The $15 fee is valid for two trips through the tunnel within seven days.

The road through Zion is narrow and winding with steep drop-offs and tight switchbacks. It was a lot of fun, but a bit of a white-knuckle adventure! Pay close attention to speed limit signs, as the speed limits change rapidly as you approach a switchback. Expect delays at the tunnel, particularly during traditional rush hours.

The tunnel was quite an experience! At 1.1 mile long, it was the longest tunnel in the United States when it opened in 1930. Dark and somewhat claustrophobia-inducing, it must be seen to be believed.

At Bryce Canyon

The small museum was very well done

Bryce Canyon National Park is packed with hiking trails and ranger programs. With such a long commute, though, we opted to focus on the scenic drive. A free park shuttle is available during the summer months, but we decided to take our own vehicle. We started at the visitor center, where a free 22-minute film explains the history and geology of this unique area. There are a few museum exhibits, and the friendly park rangers are full of advice and suggestions.

Take the time to stop at the scenic overlooks

The scenic drive is 18 miles in each direction, with a total of 14 overlooks. We drove out to the furthest point first, putting all the scenic pull-offs on our right as we drove back. The furthest overlook, Rainbow Point, is also the highest, at 9,115 feet. Dad has some chronic health conditions including asthma, and 9,000 feet is about the top of his comfort zone. So we walked around a bit and took a few photos, but did not linger too long. The rest of the pull-offs were well under 9,000 feet, and Dad did just fine.

We did not participate in the additional activities such as hiking or horseback riding, and spent approximately three hours exploring the scenic overlooks. Bryce Canyon offers a wide range of hiking options, from easy paved trails of less than a mile to a strenuous 23-mile overnight trek. Expect to add an hour or so to your stay for each mile of hiking. Ranger programs are offered throughout the day, from guided hikes to evening chats. Programs last  45 minutes to several hours.

Tips for Parents

The play of light and shadow are a photographer's dream

Bryce Canyon is completely unlike any other national park we have experienced, including the Grand Canyon. The hoodoos and other rock formations are simply breathtaking, and the visibility in the crisp, clean air is phenomenal. It is not unusual to be able to see 100 miles or more in every direction. The play of light and shadow makes Bryce a photographer’s dream.

If you have the time, consider letting your kids participate in the Junior Ranger program. Workbooks and information are available at the visitor center. Junior Rangers must complete a series of activities including attending at least one ranger program. When they have completed all the requirements, your kids can turn in their workbooks at the visitor center for a free Junior Ranger badge. Patches are available for $1. The badges and patches are unique and can only be obtained by those who have completed the program.

Keep a close eye on your children at all times, especially when hiking the trails. Steep drop-offs and slippery footing create inherent hazards. Do not let kids run ahead or get off the designated trails. Honestly assess everyone’s abilities and choose trails that are appropriate for your entire family.

Carry plenty of water and a few salty snacks. It is often hot and dry at Bryce Canyon, and dehydration is a common ailment. Hats and sunscreen are absolutely essential. Choose sturdy footwear such as hiking boots rather than flip-flops or sandals.

The Grand Canyon Railway was quaint and elegant

The South Rim of the Grand Canyon is served by one major highway–US 64 from Williams, Arizona, an hour to the south. Although the road is well maintained and served by several tiny towns with gas and food, it can get quite crowded during the major tourist seasons. While we made the drive later in our trip and it was fine, for our initial visit we decided to skip the traffic and travel in style. The Grand Canyon Railway offers a scenic and relaxing alternative.

About the Grand Canyon Railway

The train is pretty impressive

Until the late 1800s, traveling to the Grand Canyon meant spending roughly 8 hours each way in an uncomfortable stagecoach from Flagstaff. The ride was expensive and difficult, making it impractical for most travelers. In 1901, a spur line of the cross-country Santa Fe Railroad was built from Williams to the Grand Canyon, opening the canyon as a mass tourist destination for the first time.

The train trip was significantly less expensive than the stagecoach ride, priced at $3.95 instead of $15. In today’s money, that equals $114 rather than $423. Quite a difference in affordability! The train was also much more comfortable, and could complete the trip in only three hours.+

Automobile travel to the canyon was first attempted in 1902, but did not become practical for decades. By the 1960s, however, the interstate system was complete and America was in love with the car. The Grand Canyon Railway closed due to lack of ridership in 1968.

The hotel is rustic yet filled with modern amenities

In 1989, nostalgia for a simpler era was at an all-time high. Entrepreneurs Max and Thelma Biegert rescued the railroad from another company which, having failed in an effort to restore it, had already begun salvaging materials. The Grand Canyon Railway reopened on September 17, 1989, exactly 88 years after its initial run.

Besides the train, today the Grand Canyon Railway offers a full-service hotel and RV park in Williams, and a hotel at the Grand Canyon. You can purchase individual train tickets or create a customized package with accommodations.

Our Visit

The RV park is clean and well-kept

We decided on a two-night stay at the official Grand Canyon Railway RV park in Williams and a same-day roundtrip train ride to the canyon. We checked in at the RV park at around 6 p.m., leaving plenty of time to explore Williams that night. The park is entirely paved and reasonably level. Oversized pull-through sites offer full hookups, including both 50 and 30 amp electric service. Amenities include WiFi, cable TV and a common fire pit. RV park guests are welcome to use the swimming pool and hot tub at the connected hotel. The hotel is reminiscent of an old-fashioned lodge, but packed with modern amenities. Take time to explore the historic pub and the comfortable fireplace seating area even if you do not stay.

The Wild West show was surprisingly fun

Our day on the railroad began early. A free Wild West show takes place by the railroad depot at 9 a.m. The show involves members of the audience and is surprisingly well done. The actors are quite good at what they do, and are happy to pose for pictures and sign autographs after the show. Boarding starts immediately after the show, so arrive early to look around the historic depot, built in 1908.

The Train

First class seating is comfortable and stylish

The Grand Canyon Railway offers four classes of service. Coach class uses traditional 1950s Pullman cars with comfortable bench seating. Snacks and beverages are available for sale in the café cars. As of 2011, Coach class tickets cost $70 roundtrip for adults and $40 roundtrip for children aged 2 to 15. Under age 2 is free.

First class provides a significantly upgraded experience. Individual oversized, padded seats recline, offering the chance to stretch out a bit. On the way to the canyon, a light breakfast buffet consists of pastries, doughnuts and fresh fruit. Orange juice, coffee and sodas are also provided. On the return trip, snacks include an assortment of crackers, cheeses and fresh vegetables, along with sodas and coffee. Full bar service is available at reasonable prices. As of 2011, First class costs $140 roundtrip for adults and $110 roundtrip for children. Under age 2 is free.

If your kids are older, you might consider upgrading to Observation Dome or Parlor Car seating. Both require children to be at least 16 years old. The Observation Domes are located on the second level of the First class cars. In addition to the First class amenities, they offer panoramic viewing and, for those over 21, a champagne toast in the afternoon. The Parlor Car is modeled on the private cars of the old rail barons. Seating is on comfortable sofas and chairs, giving the car the feeling of a lounge. In addition to Observation Dome amenities, the Parlor Car offers a private bar and access to an open-air platform. As of 2011, Observation Dome tickets cost $170 roundtrip, while Parlor Car tickets are $190 roundtrip.

The National Park entrance fee of $8 is added to the cost of each ticket when purchasing online. If you have a National Parks pass, you can receive a refund by showing it at the window when you pick up your tickets.

The Experience

The breakfast was light but filling

Dad and I were seated in First class, as it is the highest level of service open to all ages. Our car attendant showed us to our seats, where a printed Grand Canyon guide was waiting for us. The ride is fully narrated, but our attendant took advantage of downtime to make personalized recommendations for things to do at the canyon.

The breakfast buffet opened as soon as we departed, and we spent the first half-hour watching the scenery and enjoying the food. Soon a strolling musician appeared, followed by a Wild West gunfighter. The entertainers make their way through the train; each is assigned to cover several cars. In the First class cars, they go to the Observation Dome before the First class seats, so you may hear some the act before they reach you. However, the entertainers are highly skilled and this in no way detracted from the experience.

The two hour and fifteen minute ride passed surprisingly quickly. There was a lot to see as the terrain changed from pine forest to desert and back again. Our car attendant pointed out animals along the way, supplementing the general narration. There are restrooms in every car.

At the Grand Canyon

The log cabin depot is one of only three still in existence

The train arrives at the canyon promptly at 11:45 a.m. The historic depot was built in 1910. It was one of only 14 depots constructed of logs and is one of only three that are still standing. It is the only log cabin depot that still serves an active railroad.

The depot is located at the base of Grand Canyon Village, a town of roughly 1,460 people dedicated to Grand Canyon tourism. The earliest settlers were entrepreneurs interested in making a quick buck off tourists arriving at the depot. They offered tents, food and souvenirs, and lived in whatever space they could find. Gradually the tourist industry became more regulated, permanent housing structures were built, and hotels replaced the tents. Today the village is an eclectic mix of interesting historic sites, sweeping views of the canyon, high-end restaurants, snack stands, elegant hotels and fascinating shops. A visitor center provides more information on this quaint area.

The canyon overlooks are stunning

Since we were returning to Williams on the afternoon train, we had only three hours and fifteen minutes at the canyon. Rather than striking out for more distant parts of the South Rim and risking missing the train, we opted to spend the afternoon in the village. Pick up a free walking tour brochure at the visitor center if you choose to explore the village. The area is less than two miles long, but there is quite a lot to see. Just make sure you leave time to actually enjoy the canyon views!

There are steep steps from the train depot to the village. However, a free shuttle van for guests with disabilities runs frequently throughout the day. Although it is primarily used for those traveling in a wheelchair, Dad was offered a ride due to his using a cane. Although he declined, we thought the gesture was wonderful.

The Return Trip

The train robbery was great fun!

Boarding for the return trip begins at 3:15, and the train leaves promptly at 3:30. The snack buffet was ready to go as soon as we departed. Although it would not replace a meal, it was quite welcome after a long afternoon!

There was significantly less narration on the return journey, although the car attendants remained available to answer questions. Another strolling musician, equally talented, came along partway through the trip to serenade us. Everyone relaxed, chatting quietly or even catching a short nap.

But don’t get too comfortable! Before we knew it, the train slowed to a stop. Normally at this point, you can see outlaws on horseback out the train windows. This portion was cancelled on the day of our trip, though, due to unusually heavy rains that created dangerously slippery mud.

Soon we heard an announcement that the outlaws had boarded the train! They would soon be making their way through the cars taking “donations.” Of course, modern society being what it is, the narrator was careful to stress that this was not a real train robbery and participation was entirely optional. “Please don’t take out your cell phones and call Homeland Security. We’ve actually had that happen before!”

As the outlaws neared our train car, our attendant encouraged us to play it up a bit. At his suggestion, various people in our car placed dollar bills behind their ears, tucked them into their glasses, or nestled them in their suspenders. Part of the game is for the outlaws to locate the cash.

The outlaws were great, playing up the robbery to the hilt, but keeping it light and fun rather than scary. Have your camera ready, as there were several wonderful photo opportunities!

Tips for Parents

Some trails are rocky and uneven

The Grand Canyon Railway experience is well worth the cost. The professional staff and highly skilled entertainers created an atmosphere of fun, rather than the stress associated with driving. With so much to see, there is no time for kids (or adults) to get bored. You are permitted to walk through the train, allowing everyone the chance to stretch their legs. The train is wheelchair-accessible via a lift, but you must make arrangements in advance.

Three hours is not enough time to see the Grand Canyon. Either book a package with an overnight stay at the canyon, or take the train solely for the experience of the train itself. We opted to return to the canyon on our own at a later date, which worked out well. On the day of your train trip, stick close to Grand Canyon Village. Although there are free shuttle buses throughout the park, seeing one area in depth is much more fun than constantly looking at your watch and wondering whether you can get back on time.

Keep a close eye on your children at the canyon. While some overlooks have guard rails, others do not. The terrain is often uneven and rocky, and some areas have steep steps. Although accidents are rare, it is best to err on the side of caution.

National Parks have delighted families for generations with their natural beauty. Offering so much to see and do, these parks are a wonderful venue for families to bond, learn and grow together in the splendor of nature itself. The parks below (listed alphabetically) are 5 of the best national parks in the United States, and were chosen for their intriguing significance and family-friendly nature, offering suitable activities for people of all ages.

Carlsbad Caverns Green Lake Room

Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico
3225 National Parks Hwy
Carlsbad, NM 88220
(505) 785-2232

Hidden below the rugged landscape in southeastern New Mexico, lies a series of large underground chambers carved out by water and sulfuric acid that slowly dissolved the limestone in the buried rock reef that is millions of years old. Over time, the resulting cavern was filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and other intriguing formations made by calcite deposits. Who would have ever thought that the rough terrain above – strewn with rocks, cactus and shrubs – concealed a treasure beneath.

Carlsbad Caverns Formations

Carlsbad Caverns encompasses more than 117 known caves. Visitors can hike on foot or take the elevator below and see some of the many caves, a few of which include the Big Room (or Hall of the Giants) – the cavern’s largest chamber about 4,000 feet long, 625 feet wide, and 350 feet at its highest point; the Green Lake Room – named for its pool in the chamber’s corner; Chocolate High – a maze of small passages totaling about a mile; and the Queen’s Chamber – considered the most beautiful and scenic area of the cave. About 1 million bats take refuge in the Carlsbad Caverns, sleeping together during the day on the ceiling of Bat Cave, and leaving the cave by night in a huge dramatic throng.

Carlsbad Caverns - a cascade of crystal calcite in the form of a frozen waterfall

Open year-round except December 25, general admission tickets can be purchased for adults 16 and older (children 15 and younger are free) and allow access to 2 self-guided trails. Guided tours are also available and can be purchased separately. There is dining, restrooms and drinking fountains in the underground lunchroom and on the surface’s visitor center.

A marvel of nature, Carlsbad Caverns is one of the top national parks in the USA, which families will enjoy exploring together.

Cypress trees covered by climbing ferns

Everglades National Park, Florida
40001 State Road 9336
Homestead, FL 33034
(305) 242-7700

Home to the elusive Florida panther, the American crocodile, the West Indian manatee, a myriad of tropical wading birds, reptiles, and the largest mangrove ecosystem in the western hemisphere, Everglades National Park is located on the southern tip of Florida, and is the largest subtropical wilderness in the United States. This interconnected network of marshland and forest ecosystems is teeming with countless species of wildlife. At 2,500 square miles, it is the 3rd largest national park in the lower 48 states.

Although the park is open year-round, winter is the best time to go, as the weather is comfortable and mosquitoes are least active. This park is a treasure trove of all sorts of outdoor fun activities. Go hiking along any of the numerous trails, paddling through the shady mangrove tunnels on a canoe or kayak, boating along the stunning coastlines, open ponds and lakes, or take a ranger guided tour and learn about the intricate habitats of the park. There are no accommodations at the park, but camping is available at the various campgrounds, and is a wonderful opportunity to hear the nightly chorus of the crickets as the park’s nocturnal inhabitants awaken.

Everglades - american alligator

The park is accessible from different areas, with visitor centers that provide a range of tours and programs, various rentals, informational brochures, orientation films, educational displays, and snacks and restrooms. Some areas of the park require an entrance fee, and the paid parking is good for 7 consecutive days.

Everglades - mangroves

With its dense mangroves, marshes, and tropical fauna, Everglades National Park offers many exciting adventures for families to discover.

Grand Canyon - South Rim View

Grand Canyon, Arizona
Village Loop Rd
Grand Canyon, AZ 86023
(928) 638-7888

One of the world’s most spectacular natural wonders, the Grand Canyon encompasses over 1.2 million acres of semi-arid land consisting of raised plateaus and structural basins, carved out by the Colorado River. It is 6,000 feet deep at its deepest point, 15 miles at its widest, and 277 miles long. The Grand Canyon is a significant resource of geological features including its immense fossil record, and paleontological, archeological and biological reserves found in its many caves.

There is plenty to see and experience at the Grand Canyon. From hiking along numerous trails such as the historic Hermit Road, walking the Trail of Time and learning about the canyon’s geologic history, taking guided tours, helicopter tours, mule trips, whitewater rafting, and more. The Tusayan Ruin and Museum offers a fascinating glimpse of Pueblo Indian life some 800 years ago. Visitors can also climb up the 70 foot tall stone watchtower Desert View Point (a historic replica of the prehistoric towers found on the Colorado Plateau, and the highest point on the South Rim).

Grand Canyon - Yavapai Observation Station

The Grand Canyon is accessible at the North and South Rims. The South Rim is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, and has a variety of museums and information centers with exhibits. Camping, lodging, and restaurants are available year round. There is free shuttle service throughout the Grand Canyon Village area, and paid parking at the Visitor Center. The North Rim facilities are open mid-May through mid-October due to weather.

Grand Canyon - ancient pueblo granaries, photo by drenaline

With its magnificent views, geologic history, and endless activities, the Grand Canyon is one of the top national parks for families.

Yosemite - Bridalveil Falls, photo by Mila Zinkova

Yosemite National Park
9039 Village Dr
Yosemite Natl Pk, CA 95389
(209)372-0200

Roughly chiseled granite cliffs and towering majestic sequoias stand as silent witnesses to time at Yosemite National Park north of Fresno, California. Countless wildlife species and plants find sanctuary in this 1,169 square mile park amid the clear streams, waterfalls, deep valleys and scenic meadows. Designated a World Heritage Site in 1984, Yosemite is a wilderness shrine in the High Sierra.

Although the park is open 24 hours per day, 365 days per year, some roads are closed due to snow from about November through May or June. Each season has something beautiful to offer, but summer is most popular. With the melting snow, rivers and waterfalls make a splendid sight, such as Yosemite Falls (the tallest in North America), Vernal, Nevada, and Bridalveil. Lush, fragrant wildflowers bloom in great varieties in Yosemite Valley, Wawona, and Tuolumne Meadows. Massive granite cliffs and domes such as the 8,842-foot Half Dome, the renowned El Capitan, and the 13,114-foot Mt. Lyell (Yosemite’s tallest peak), inspire a deep reverence.

Yosemite California - sunset on half dome

There is so much to do in Yosemite National Park. From hiking, biking, rock climbing, fishing, horseback riding, water activities, guided tours and more, this park offers something for every season. Winter offers its own activities including skiing and ice skating in a stunning backdrop of breathtaking natural beauty. Visitors can camp at the designated campgrounds, or book lodging accommodations at The Ahwahnee, but advanced reservations are highly recommended for both due to popularity. The park entrance fee is valid for unlimited entries to Yosemite for seven days, and includes all occupants of the car.

Yosemite - a winter wonderland - snow covered meadow

A breathtaking manifestation of natural beauty, Yosemite National Park will captivate young and old alike for generations to come.

Zion National Park - Zion Canyon

Zion National Park
Zion National Park, UT 84767
(435)772-3256

Cool waters of the Virgin River flow over stones deep in the canyon’s narrows, winding a graceful path through the soaring sandstone cliffs of Zion National Park in Southwestern Utah. Showcasing some of the most beautiful canyon country in the United States, Zion National Park is a striking tribute to the diverse magnificence of nature. With its forested highlands, lowland deserts, fauna and flora, the wildlife of Zion finds refuge in the park’s serenity.

Life in Zion thrives on the Virgin River, sustaining numerous species of mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians and fish. Masterfully adapted to their environment, many animals seek refuge from the day’s heat, only to emerge in the cooler hours of the evening and night. Yet when lightning strikes and thunder rolls, flash floods erupt, boring through the parched canyons with furious exhilaration, renewing life in this canyon oasis.

Virgin River Narrows at Zion National Park

Open year round, families will find plenty to do at Zion National Park. The visitor centers and Human History Museum provide lots of information on this haven. There is bicycling, birdwatching, hiking, horseback riding, camping (in several campgrounds), lodging (at Zion Lodge which is open year round), ranger-led activities (which are free), scenic drives, and more. The Zion Shuttle System is free and operates in Zion Canyon and the town of Springdale Utah. All park visitors are required to purchase a recreational use pass upon entering the park. The pass is valid for 7 consecutive days including the date of purchase.

Wall Street Zion narrows in Zion National Park

Families will be delighted by Zion National Park. With its wide-ranging elevations, landscape, microclimates and habitats, the wild beauty of this sanctuary stands as testament to the enduring spirit of life and nature.

Grand Silence, Great Beauty

Few landscapes on the planet have the capacity to take your breath away like the Grand Canyon. Once you have visited this truly grand natural wonder, most everything else you’ve witnessed up to that point in your life will probably pale in comparison. At least, that has been my experience. Any tourist could reel off the physical dimensions of the Canyon, its vast expanse, its history and geology. As for me, I always have to go back and check my facts and numbers which I find hard to remember accurately, but one thing that has stuck in my mind from my two trips to the Grand Canyon is the silent and powerful way in which it communicates the sheer force of nature. It’s impossible to imagine how one seemingly gentle, faraway force has managed to sculpt and alter the face of earth, until you witness it first hand. Until you see how a gushing river can carve out a path through layers of solid rock, at least millions of years old.  

Getting there:  

A 4 hour drive from Phoenix along long, straight stretches of Interstates 17, 40 and highway 64 brings you to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim – the most popular and tourist friendly part of the Canyon. Driving alongside never ending desert landscapes and larger than life cacti is a unique experience, novel to East Coasters more used to meandering mountain roads and lush greenery.  

Grand Canyon South Rim at Sunrise

What to see:  

The Grand Canyon offers several view points and spots all vying with each other to provide more spectacular views of the canyon below. A shuttle service helps you get to the various points and enjoy the vistas along the way. Depending on how much time you have, pick out a few of the many viewpoints to stop at. Some of the more prominent ones include Hopi, Maricopa, Mojave and Hermit’s Rest – the last stop on the shuttle’s route which also houses a gift shop and cafe. No matter what you do, ensure that your trip to the Canyon includes at the very least either a sunrise or a sunset view. You’ve got to experience the golden hour at the canyon – watching the rocks turn from a dry brown to a warm gold before being engulfed in shades of crimson, orange, red, pink and black is an experience you won’t forget. If you only have a day or a little more to spend here, plan your itinerary so you arrive at the Grand Canyon a little before sunset and wake up to view the sunrise, or at least one of them.  

Which brings us to the next point.  

Colorado River in the distance, Grand Canyon

Where to stay:  

Staying on the Grand Canyon National Park premises is a great option if you want to spend long hours exploring the canyon’s viewpoints, wake up early to catch the sun rise or just to explore the park by walk. Yavapai Lodge and other lodges offer comfortable rooms – the only drawback being the lack of modern amenities like a microwave oven, laundry or a breakfast room. This could be a huge consideration for families with children or people for whom these factors weigh high in priority. If you’re mainly here for the Grand experience though, these are minor issues you can get around quite easily with a little more planning and smarter packing. If you do want the works however (or at least a breakfast bar), you could stay at Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites Grand Canyon just down the road. Catching the sunrise is going to take a little extra effort – a small price to pay for the modern lifestyle you can’t do without. 

What to do:
Trek, River raft, Glass bridge, IMax theatre 

Besides catching glimpses of the Canyon from the prominent points and snapping hundreds of pictures, which is what a vast majority of the 3 million+ annual visitors do, you can and should consider taking your experience of the Grand Canyon a few notches higher…by treading lower. Hiking to the bottom of the canyon is touted to be the ultimate adventure – it’s hard work and not recommended for those not in excellent shape. You’re likely to come face to face with soaring desert temperatures, dehydration, rattle snakes and oncoming mules, but at the end of it all, you will see what not many do – a stunning bottom-up view of the canyon’s ridges and rocks. With the bonus of staying overnight at the base – making the round trip on the same day is not advisable and probably not the most sensible option to consider. Besides, you probably wouldn’t have the energy or will even if you wanted to – we’re talking about 10 hours+ of grueling hiking here. And unlike most other treks – you’ll be climbing uphill on your return. You require a Backcountry Pass to stay overnight at the base and are also recommended against hiking alone. I haven’t done this yet and it remains one of the top things on my ‘To do’ list.  

Grand Sunrise Colors

The other amazing experience Grand Canyon has to offer takes you to its creator – whitewater rafting on the Colorado is said to be among the most challenging on the planet. It takes a seasoned rafter to face some of its Class 5 rapids head on and emerge unscathed…maybe. But, there are some easy to moderate rafting trips more appropriate for families with young kids.  

Since 2007, you can experience the Grand Canyon from an unprecedented viewpoint – directly above it. The Horseshoe Glass Bridge owned by the Hualapai Indian tribe offers visitors a uniquely thrilling perspective and is not for the faint-hearted, I am told. Standing 4000 feet above the canyon and 70 feet in, you will get to see the ridges and rocks and the nothingness directly under your feet through the glass – the only thing separating your from what’s underneath. To get here however, you will have to travel away from the South Rim towards the North Rim and the Horseshoe Bridge is located on Grand Canyon West. It’s at least an additional 2 hours on the road – so, if that’s something you want to see, then factor in the round trip time into your itinerary.  

Before you drive away, stop by for a show at the Grand Canyon IMAX theatre for a last glimpse of the Canyon and a peek into the secrets and stories it has to reveal.  

A trip to the Grand Canyon offers plenty of photo ops, a backbreaking trek, an extraordinary camping experience and much more. But what the place really has to offer won’t be found in any brochure or tourism website – and that’s the elusive spiritual component – call it soul searching, self-inquiry or just finding the silent place within yourself. To me, the true essence of a Grand Canyon tour, lies in experiencing that beautiful silence within and without that somehow emerges more easily when you’re standing at its rim, looking at one of the many manifestations of nature’s glory.

My husband and son enjoying the meadows on the way to the Arizona Grand Canyon North Rim.

After having dinner at the Jacob Lake Inn restaurant in Arizona (see The Grand Canyon Part I: Pipe Spring and Jacob Lake), we all decided to make the forty-minute drive to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  It was a bit late to be starting out but we figured we’d still be able to get there in time to see the sun set over the canyon.  The drive along Grand Canyon Highway (AZ 67) was wonderful.  Trees lined the road for some of the trip but then opened up to huge meadows full of flowers and tall grass.  At that hour of the evening they were also full of deer and our son had a great time pointing them out to us as we went by.

Our first glimpse of the majestic Grand Canyon North Rim came once we entered the national park itself.  Through gaps in the trees we could see the towering cliffs that dropped down into the canyon.  After a short drive along the rim we came to the parking lot of the Grand Canyon Lodge, the only hotel inside the park.  The hotel was very crowded when we got there so we were forced to park at the far end of the lot.  From that far out it’s a bit of a walk to the Lodge so if you have someone with you that has any physical limitations it’s a good idea to drop them off at the hotel entrance before parking; there’s a loop that leads right past the front doors for passenger drop off or unloading bags.  This is where we let my grandma out to wait while we made the trek through the parking lot.  A long covered walkway with wooden benches and chairs provided a comfortable place for her to sit while she passed the time.

The Grand Canyon Lodge at the North Rim. View from the trail.

The inside of the hotel is every bit as spectacular as the view it was built to honor.  A large lobby made of dark wood with towering ceilings is the first thing you see upon stepping inside.  Just beyond it is an incredible indoor viewing room with walls made almost entirely of huge windows.  Filled with comfortable chairs, it’s the perfect spot to look out over the canyon while still enjoying the air conditioning.  My dad and grandma opted to stay there while the rest of us headed outside to the giant deck.  Alhough the deck was covered with chairs and benches, the ones with the best view were placed right up against the deck’s rock wall.  We had to hang around for a while to get these prime seats but they were well worth the wait!

And sunset at the Grand Canyon was well worth the drive!  We were lucky enough to be there on a very clear night and the view was breathtaking; I found it even more beautiful than seeing it during the full light of day.  As it got darker a ranger brought out a telescope and gave anyone who was interested a glimpse of the moon.  At the same time a fire had been lit in the huge stone fireplace on the other end of the deck and another ranger was leading a discussion about the Grand Canyon after dark.  Although the trip back to Jacob Lake required yet another rousing go around of the Mickey and Friends CD, we were extremely glad we’d been able to see the beauty of the Grand Canyon at night.

The Grand Canyon at dusk.

After checking out of our little cabins the next morning, we once again made the drive to the North Rim (here’s where the DVD player came in handy)!  My husband and I, along with my sister and her husband decided to take one of the short walks that began just outside the Lodge.  We found that it was a bit more of a hike than a walk however as some parts of the trail were quite steep so we were glad that we’d loaded our backpacks with plenty of water.  The lookout at the end provided a spectacular view however, and made up for the hard work in getting there!  After our hike we met up again with the rest of my family and headed up to the restaurant in the Lodge for lunch.  The restaurant sits just off of the lobby and offers incredible views of the canyon.  The menu had a variety of options and everything we ordered was very good.  The deli/bakery also had very good food and was a less expensive option for those who don’t want to spend every meal in the restaurant.

View at the end of our hike.

There is a paved lookout to the right of the lobby but even that little adventure made me nervous with our son; we carried him the whole way because there were still too many places for little feet to slip. I did see quite a few couples on the trail that had babies being carried in front-packs and as long as you have good balance and stamina you’d probably be fine. Still, the trail had no fence and there were a few areas with a steep drop-off. We’d certainly go back with our small children but if you go without other family members you may need to prepare yourself to stay close to the Lodge since a lot of the hikes would be difficult or dangerous with toddlers. That was one of the benefits of staying at Jacob Lake despite the forty-minute drive; there was the playground for him to enjoy as well as a lot of open area for him to run around in. If you are interested in staying inside the park however, you’ll want to make your reservations early; the Lodge and the campground fill up very quickly.

My son & mom playing on the lawn at the Lodge.

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is truly beautiful and provides some incredible views even compared with those of the South Rim.  It is a great deal smaller though and is only open from mid-May through mid-October as the road into the North Rim is usually closed by snow during the off months.  Alhough our son enjoyed it very much, he was limited to the lawns that surrounded the hotel since the trails really aren’t suited for small children; he stayed behind with my parents and grandma while the rest of us took our hike.

For more information on the Arizona Grand Canyon North Rim including lodging, campgrounds, and activities, visit their page at the National Park Service website (nps.gov/grca).  Also, if you haven’t already done so, make sure to read Part 1 of our Grand Canyon vacation!

Winsor Castle at Pipe Spring. Photo courtesy of nps.gov

Anyway, we’d decided to stop at Pipe Spring National Monument on the way to our motel in Jacob Lake (the tiny town in Arizona about 44 miles from the North Rim).  If you ever happen to be making the drive to the Grand Canyon by way of Southern Utah I’d recommend making a stop here.  The Visitor Center and Museum located at the monument is run by the National Park Service and the Kaibab Paiute.  Just beyond that and up a short trail is Winsor Castle, a fort built by Mormon Pioneers in the 1870’s.  We arrived just in time for a tour but as it was so hot I only managed to persuade my husband (okay, I forced him), to come with me while the others waited in the

My son and I in front of his favorite part of Pipe Spring: the covered wagon!

air conditioned Visitor Center.  While the tour was interesting for the adults, our son had far more fun running around and exploring all the pioneer and Paiute displays on the grounds; a big covered wagon quickly became his favorite.  There were also a number of ranger talks being held on various topics of pioneer and Paiute life during the late 1800’s but since we were on a bit of a schedule we weren’t able to attend any of them.  I did see several that looked perfect for children though.  The Pipe Spring National Monument page of the National Park Service website (nps.gov/pisp) has a complete list of all the ranger demonstrations and their times as well as more information about the monument and its history.

After an hour at Pipe Spring we were once again loaded up and on our way to the North Rim.  The drive along US 89A was absolutely beautiful…even though my husband and I were suffering through a second round of a sing-along CD with Mickey and Friends.  When we pulled into the parking lot of Jacob Lake Inn just over an hour later we found we were still a little early to check in so we headed across the street to a picnic area for a late lunch.  Jacob Lake is located in the Kaibab National Forest and the backdrop for our little picnic was perfect; our son loved running around in all the trees!  He also loved playing at the playground that sits in the middle of the Jacob Lake Inn; my husband and I took him there to play while the rest of my family checked in.

My husband and son at the picnic grounds in Jacob Lake

While the Inn does have regular hotel rooms available that include a television, internet, and a phone, my family had decided to stay in three of the cabins that are also available on the property.  These are certainly more ‘rustic’ as they have no T.V., internet, or phones but they do have large decks where we all gathered after dinner to watch the stars come out.  The inside of the cabins are small and the tiny size of the bathrooms remain a standing joke in my family to this day but really they’re not bad.

My little family and my Grandma in front of the family cabin at the Jacob Lake Inn.

My husband, son, and I shared what’s called a ‘Family Cabin’ with my Grandma.  This has two separate rooms joined together by a common bathroom.  My Grandma stayed in the small room which was basically just big enough for the queen bed and a nightstand, while my little family stayed in the bigger room.  This consisted of two queen beds set at opposite ends of the room, a sink, a clothes rack, and a desk.  Each room had its own private entrance which was nice.

My parents and my sister and her husband both stayed in their own single cabins which contained a queen size bed (cabins with king beds are also available), a nightstand, and a bathroom.

My parents and my sister and brother-in-law in front of the single cabins at the Jacob Lake Inn.

While we brought our own picnic lunch, we ate dinner and breakfast at the small Jacob Lake Inn restaurant.  Their dining room hours do vary depending on the time of year so make sure to check their times or you might end up going hungry!  Although I can’t say it’s the best food I’ve ever eaten it’s not bad considering that most of the restaurant staff is made up of college students who come to work during the summer.  And of course the fact that it’s the only place to eat for miles and miles makes it all taste better somehow!

Although we enjoyed our stay here I have to offer a word of warning: Jacob Lake is pretty much made up of the Inn, a campground and a US Forest Service Visitor Center.  The only restaurant, gas station, and gift shop is located at the Jacob Lake Inn.  It’s about a 45-minute drive to the North Rim where provisions and food are still extremely limited or an almost equally long drive back to Fredonia where the options aren’t much better.  If you’re bringing in your own supplies (especially for camping) you’ll want to make sure you stock up either before you leave or at one of the major cities along the way.

The beautiful scenery and quiet location of Jacob Lake provided the perfect start for our Grand Canyon weekend!  For more information on Jacob Lake and the Jacob Lake Inn, visit their website at jacoblake.com.  Be sure to read about the rest of our trip in The Grand Canyon Part II: The North Rim!