I admit to being a huge Billy the Kid buff

It all started in Roswell, New Mexico. After visiting the Roswell UFO Museum, Dad and I stopped at the Chamber of Commerce to find out what else might be going on in town. We happened to meet a wonderful employee who was happy to help us plan out the rest of our stay in New Mexico. She was very perceptive and quickly tuned in to our individual interests. When she mentioned the words “Billy the Kid,” my face gave me away. I wanted to learn everything I could about the infamous outlaw.

Our new best friend told us all about the Hondo Valley, which includes the town of Lincoln, New Mexico, where Billy and his Regulators were involved in the Lincoln County War. She also mentioned Fort Sumner, where Pat Garrett shot Billy on July 14, 1881. I glanced at Dad, who smiled and readily agreed to go chasing after Billy the Kid.

The Great Mystery

As this painting shows, Billy the Kid has captured many imaginations

I have been a Billy the Kid fan for quite some time. Like many people, I am a huge fan of the films Young Guns and Young Guns II. The second movie raises the possibility that Billy may not have been killed at Fort Sumner after all, but might instead have escaped and lived into old age. But that’s only a movie, right?

As I began to dig deeper into the facts of the Billy the Kid case, I gradually became less and less certain that he was, in fact, shot and killed that night. Too many things just did not add up. It was great fun to speak with the locals in Lincoln, each of whom had a personal theory as to what might have happened so long ago.

I ended up purchasing several books that all purport to tell the real story of Billy the Kid. Although the details vary, all of the resources agree on the basics. Far from a vicious, evil outlaw, the person that history describes was gentle, refined, sharply intelligent and surprisingly well-loved by most everyone he met.

Fort Sumner, where Billy the Kid was allegedly killed

I became increasingly more determined to learn what I could of the truth behind Billy’s alleged death. I also became intrigued by the story and determined to write a speculative fiction novel based on the idea that he did not, in fact, die that night.

There was just one small problem. Fort Sumner was several hours’ drive from where we were staying, and we were due in Tombstone, Arizona. Ordinarily we would have pushed back our stay in Tombstone, but we were also contending with a series of wildfires. We had a relatively short window in which to make our Tombstone appearance before the latest fire potentially spread in that direction. So, with a sigh, I reluctantly agreed to skip Fort Sumner. We went on to Tombstone and continued our westward journey.

A Second Chance

The drive through New Mexico was pretty desolate

Pushing the Billy the Kid mystery out of my mind, I was happy to discover that our trek took us along Route 66. As a huge fan of retro kitsch, I was thrilled to experience the diners and roadside attractions in places like Williams, Arizona.

For a number of reasons, we sort of got stuck in Las Vegas for longer than planned (if you can call an extended stay in Las Vegas “stuck,” that is). But we had tickets to the So You Think You Can Dance tour in Memphis, so we came up with a new plan. We would drive Interstate 40 straight through from Vegas, except for a brief stopover near Petrified Forest National Park. We estimated that we could cross the country in four days and still make the show. But it didn’t leave any time for sightseeing along the way.

Although I knew we wouldn’t be stopping at any attractions, I picked up a Route 66 guidebook. We plan to drive back across the country next summer, and I wanted to get a jump start on picking out new sights to see. While I was flipping through the New Mexico section, though, it suddenly jumped out at me.

The Fort Sumner Points of Interest

Fort Sumner was just 40 miles south of Interstate 40! We wouldn’t need to backtrack, because a parallel road would take us up to Amarillo, Texas, where we could rejoin the interstate for our drive to the Oklahoma border, where we planned to stop for the night. How could I possibly pass up my chance to see it, when the detour was so short?

Dad was in the gas station when I made my discovery, and he knew something was up as soon as he saw my face. As he was towing the travel trailer, he made me wait until we were back on the interstate before I was allowed to share my news.

When I was nine years old, Dad and I were both in a play called Teahouse of the August Moon. In one scene, the American army captain is trying to get to the village of Tobiki, Okinawa, to set up a democratic system of government. But the interpreter, Sakini, allows all sorts of additional people (and one goat) to catch a ride in the Jeep. Many of the people want to stop off somewhere else first. Though the captain is reluctant, he eventually agrees.

Dad rolled his eyes and quoted a few lines from the play, but agreed to stop off at Fort Sumner. After a long drive, we arrived in town shortly after lunchtime.

Our Experience

The Fort Sumner Visitor Center was extremely helpful

Arriving in Fort Sumner, it quickly became clear that the town is proud of its Billy the Kid connection. From drugstores to dry cleaners, it seemed virtually every downtown business had a mural or a sign proclaiming that Billy the Kid is still in town.

On stopping by the visitor center, we learned that there are two main Billy the Kid hotspots in town. The Billy the Kid Museum has more of a roadside attraction feel, while the Old Fort Sumner Museum has a more traditional display of artifacts. Both have Billy the Kid gravesites, although the Billy the Kid Museum’s is clearly marked as a replica, while the Old Fort Sumner Museum’s is purported to be real. Confused yet? So were we.

We quickly saw a difference between the locals in Fort Sumner and those in Lincoln. While the Lincoln crowd seems willing to at least entertain the possibility that Billy the Kid was not killed by Pat Garrett, those in Fort Sumner seem fiercely protective of the idea that he was. Perhaps because Fort Sumner would lose its tourist luster if it was determined that Billy was not, in fact, killed there? Or do they know something that we don’t? I just love a good mystery!

Billy the Kid Museum

This gravesite is clearly marked "replica"

Expecting a kitschy roadside stand, we headed first to the Billy the Kid Museum. As of 2011, the museum is open 8:30 to 5:00 Monday through Saturday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors over age 62, and $3 for kids aged 7 to 15.

Despite its reputation as just a roadside attraction, both Dad and I were impressed at the size of the place and the attention to detail. There was a massive collection of artifacts, from a lock of Billy’s hair to a curtain that hung over the doorway of the room where he was allegedly killed. There was also a rather sizeable room full of old guns, some of which were reportedly Billy’s. Outside was the famous replica gravesite, which was quite interesting to see.

The museum also houses all sorts of random memorabilia, from old cars to 1960s Ken and Barbie dolls. It was great fun to look around, and we could have easily spent hours there. But we had a long drive ahead of us, so after photographing the Billy the Kid items, we were on our way.

Old Fort Sumner Museum

This was a treasure trove of documents pertaining to the mystery

As of 2011, admission to the Old Fort Sumner Museum is $5, though you can visit the grave site for free. The museum is a good bit smaller than the Billy the Kid Museum, but I was spellbound. On display were a seemingly endless number of affidavits, original newspaper articles and research reports dealing directly with the mystery surrounding Billy’s alleged death. Dad ran around taking photographs while I pored over the old documents.

Naturally there was no consensus, and the mystery remains just that. But I left the museum that day with a head full of facts and figures that can only help in setting up my novel. Outside, we took a few moments to pay our respects at the old cemetery.

Billy's gravesite? Not necessarily.

As the story goes, Billy’s pals Tom O’Folliard and Charlie Bowdre were already interred at the cemetery when Billy was killed in 1881. He was buried next to them. But as luck would have it, a flood washed away the wooden grave markers shortly after Billy was interred. This fact adds deeply to the mystery.

Apparently no one really knows exactly where Billy the Kid is purportedly buried. The current tombstone location is a best guess based on testimony of witnesses who had visited the gravesite. A permanent grave marker was placed at the site, but was stolen three times over the years.

In 1962, Lincoln County tried to have Billy’s body exhumed and moved to Lincoln. But for a number of reasons, they lost the court case. One of the primary reasons? No one knew exactly where Billy was, and no one wanted to dig up the entire graveyard to find out!

These men swore to their dying day that they buried Billy the Kid. But did they?

More recently, researchers have talked of exhuming both Billy and his mother, who is most likely buried in Silver City, New Mexico. Supposedly DNA testing could conclusively prove once and for all whether or not it is, in fact, Billy the Kid who rests in the cemetery in Fort Sumner. But again, no one is willing to dig up the entire cemetery to find Billy’s remains. His mother’s gravesite seems more certain, but her original wooden grave marker is also missing, and the later tombstone has her name misspelled. It is entirely possible that neither of them would be particularly easy to locate!

The helpful desk clerk at the Old Fort Sumner Museum gave us directions to the site of Pete Maxwell’s home, where Billy was allegedly killed. But the house is no longer standing, and accessing the site requires going through another tourist site, which was getting ready to close, and then hiking out to the location. It would have been interesting to see, but apparently there is literally nothing left. So we opted out, satisfied with our time in Fort Sumner.

Tips for Parents

Did Billy the Kid really give away this rifle two months before he was shot? If so, why?

If you or your kids are Billy the Kid fans, Fort Sumner is well worth a stop. If your kids are unfamiliar with the legend, rent Young Guns before your trip. Although not entirely historically accurate, the movie does a good job of presenting the basic storyline of the Lincoln County War. The artifacts in both museums paint an interesting picture of Billy that is not readily available in mainstream media. The town itself is small and friendly, making it a great place to take a break.

If possible, plan to spend an entire day in town. While you can certainly see the highlights in just a few hours, we felt a bit pressed for time. Having a full day would have allowed us to relax and take our time rather than rushing through.

Related Articles:

In the Footsteps of Billy the Kid: Lincoln, NM

Smokey Bear Meets Billy the Kid? Carrizozo, Capitan, and Valley of Fires, New Mexico

Get Your Kicks on Route 66

White Oaks is a virtually abandoned mining town

It is truly amazing how many times you can read a book or see a movie without retaining all of the details. Young Guns II, the 1990 sequel to Young Guns that highlights the further exploits of Billy the Kid, is one of my favorite films. I love the sequence in the brothel, when the Regulators agree to “send out the Indian” to be killed, only to dress the deputy as Chavez and send him to the lynch mob instead. The movie clearly states that the scene takes place in White Oaks, but I never memorized that particular detail.

While looking at the driving map of Billy the Kid historic sites in Lincoln County, which we obtained at the Billy the Kid Visitor Center in Ruidoso Downs, I noticed the town of White Oaks. It was listed as a ghost town that was once a center for gold mining. Dad and I had eagerly anticipated visiting some of the ghost towns of the Old West, and White Oaks was just 12 miles from our campsite in Valley of Fires! We knew we had to go while we were in the area.

Many original buildings are still standing

After our day in Lincoln, my head was spinning with ideas for a new historical fiction novel based on the life of Billy the Kid. I purchased several history books, eager to develop a realistic setting for my novel. Meanwhile, I wanted to watch the Young Guns films again. I knew they had taken a number of literary licenses with the story, but I also knew that they would put me in the right frame of mind to begin writing the book. When we got to the brothel scene in the second movie, I nearly fell off the couch. I finally connected the dots and realized that White Oaks, the ghost town I wanted to see, was White Oaks, the gold mining town where Billy the Kid spent a great deal of time.

About White Oaks

The No Scum Allowed Saloon is open irregular hours

In 1879, John Wilson made an accidental gold strike in the mountains nearby. An outlaw more concerned with outrunning authorities than staking a claim, he quickly sold his interest to John V. Winters and Charles Baxter, two men he had recently met, for a pistol and $38 in gold. As news of the gold strike spread, the town of White Oaks popped up seemingly overnight. Approximately 2,500 immigrants, many highly educated, settled in town within the first year.

The wealth of the miners and the education of the new residents quickly developed White Oaks into an impressive city. Four churches, a school, a meat market, a dairy, a blacksmith shop, a mortuary, a post office and several general stores were among the highlights. With numerous gambling houses and brothels, White Oaks also appealed to the seedier side of human nature. Though it was never as tough as Lincoln, New Mexico or Tombstone, Arizona, and no significant gun battles were fought there, White Oaks was a sort of resort town for Billy the Kid and other outlaws.

The homes of White Oaks offer picturesque views

By 1885, much of the lawlessness of the Old West was over, and White Oaks settled into a relatively quiet, prosperous existence, expanding to roughly 5,000 residents. But ultimately White Oaks’ wealth would be its undoing. In the late 1890s, plans were made to expand the El Paso and Northeastern Railroad to Lincoln County. The line would connect to White Oaks, then the most bustling town in the county. But property owners were cocky about what they had. They set real estate prices extremely high, expecting railroad promoters to meet their demands. Instead, the railroad men walked away. In 1899, the line was connected to nearby Carrizozo instead, setting the stage for that town’s boom years. The grand era of White Oaks was over. The town fell into a decline from which it would never recover.

The Susan McSween gravesite is elegant and understated

Nonetheless, prominent residents continued to maintain homes in town. Perhaps the most notable resident was Susan McSween Barber, the remarried widow of Alexander McSween, whose death was one of the major events of the Lincoln County War. She developed a sizeable cattle business, earning the moniker “Cattle Queen of New Mexico,” and moved to White Oaks in 1902. She stayed until her death in 1931 and is buried in White Oaks’ Cedarvale Cemetery.

Today the population of White Oaks is roughly a dozen. Two sites, the Miner’s Home Museum and the Schoolhouse Museum, are open to the public. A pottery shop and the No Scum Allowed Saloon draw visitors from throughout the area, though both are open highly irregular hours.

Our Visit to White Oaks

The Miner's Home gives new meaning to "open to the public"

Highway 54 is a major road running north and south between Alamogordo and Santa Fe. The highway runs directly through Carrizozo and, just three miles north, meets the turnoff for White Oaks. As soon as we made the turn, we noted a distinct change in terrain. Rugged and nearly deserted, the area beckons those with a sense of adventure.

White Oaks Avenue is the main road through town. Cedarvale Cemetery, the Miner’s Home Museum and the No Scum Allowed Saloon lie along the paved portion of this road. Our first stop was the Miner’s Home.

Being from New Orleans, Dad and I have a very big-city mentality in our approach to life in general. We’re used to locked doors, heavy iron gates and numerous protective measures applied to museums and historic exhibits. What a shock, then, to realize that not only is the Miner’s Home free of charge, but it is left wide open. Plexiglass protects the actual exhibits, but you are welcome to wander through at your leisure any time you like.

The cabin is filled with authentic artifacts

The cabin is set up as it would have been in the 1880s. All manner of artifacts, from heavy furniture items to the contents of a lady’s dressing table, are visible throughout the home. Informational signs tell the story of White Oaks. Out back, visit the Toolshed for a look at a common workshop of the era. There is even an outhouse, its door open just enough for a quick peek.

Cedarvale Cemetery appeared closed at first glance, until we realized that it was not locked. You are asked to close the gate when you enter or exit, probably to keep out the local wildlife. The graves are remarkably well preserved. Susan McSween Barber’s gravesite is elegant, but smaller and less ornate than we would have expected. Deputy James Bell, killed by Billy the Kid during his escape from the Lincoln County Courthouse, is also buried in Cedarvale.

Much of the road is still unpaved

Beyond the main strip of White Oaks Avenue, the roads are steep, gravel and very bumpy. We decided to drive out to the pottery shop, three miles down the unpaved portion of White Oaks Avenue, but turned around after a mile or so. There is a somewhat confusing map of the town near the Miner’s Home, but we had trouble figuring out exactly where the Schoolhouse Museum was. Dad was skeptical of doing too much driving on the unpaved roads, so we gave up. Still, it was well worth the drive just to see a legitimate ghost town. The story of White Oaks is a sad lesson in the danger of greed, but it stands as a testament to the boom era of the Old West.

Tips for Parents

Deputy James Bell was killed in Billy the Kid's escape from the Lincoln Courthouse

The Historic White Oaks website, which we did not discover until long after our trip, is probably the best place to get information on the historic buildings, their locations, and the reasons that they are important. While White Oaks is fascinating, it is not well labeled. If you get off the main road, expect to get lost at least briefly.

Carry water and plenty of snacks. Unless the No Scum Saloon happens to be open, there is nowhere to purchase food or drinks in White Oaks. You may want to stop for gas and supplies in Carrizozo before heading out.

Though the town is a bit confusing, it is worth a visit. So many Old West towns have been “restored,” “renovated,” or “improved,” endlessly replaying a sanitized version of historic events to an ongoing stream of tourists. White Oaks offers the chance to wander through boom town streets and take in the memory of what was, rather than getting lost in what currently is.

Walking up to this sign, we could feel the energy of the place

When Dad and I were in Roswell, New Mexico, we stopped by the official Visitor Center. A wonderful representative there helped us plan a new route–the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway, which runs through the Hondo Valley region and includes the town of Lincoln New Mexico, where Billy the Kid got his start as an outlaw.

A trip to Lincoln was clearly a must-do, but what about the rest of the region? We soon discovered that the route included Capitan, home of Smokey Bear; Carrizozo, the county seat since 1913; and the Valley of Fires, a massive lava flow three miles from Carrizozo that happens to offer a developed campground. The main tourist hub for the area is Ruidoso, but we wanted to do something a little different.

Valley of Fires

The Valley of Fires was breathtaking

Valley of Fires is a recreation area adjoining the Carrizozo Lava Flow, created approximately 5,000 years ago from lava vents in the Earth’s crust. The molten lava flowed south, ultimately creating an area of lava rock 44 miles long and 2 to 5 miles wide. The total surface area is approximately 127 square miles. At its thickest points, the lava is 165 feet deep.

Towing the travel trailer into the Valley of Fires was quite an experience! As we left Carrizozo, the terrain changed, surrounding us with giant black rocks on either side. As of 2011, the nightly fee is $7 for tent camping, $12 for primitive RV sites, or $18 for a site with electric and water hookups. Valley of Fires is operated by the Bureau of Land Management, a federal agency that accepts Golden Access and Golden Age National Park passes for half-price camping. The day use fee is $3 for one person, $5 for a carload or free for National Park pass holders.

This was the view from our front door

The paved RV section of the campground is literally built on the side of a mountain. The road is steep but well-graded, and the sites are tiered along the mountainside. The tent section offers level tent pads and is sheltered against the mountain for protection from wind. That’s a good thing, because the wind whipped through our RV site so badly that our satellite dish nearly fell down the mountain! As it is, the LNB arm is permanently bent.

We chose a site directly across from the small visitor center and gift shop, staffed by an extremely helpful volunteer. A clean, modern bath house was just a few steps away. The view from our site was truly stunning–overlooking the Hondo Valley and Ruidoso on one side, and the lava flow on the other.

The lava walk is the main attraction

The main attraction at the Valley of Fires is the lava walk. The paved trail through the lava flow offers 14 interpretive signs explaining the history, flora and fauna of this unique location. The majority of the trail is wheelchair-accessible. Carry plenty of water when hiking the trail. A hat and sunscreen are essential, as there is no shade and the sun is intense.

Valley of Fires also offers a steep and rocky, but short, hike to a stunning overlook. Rumor has it that with a telescope, it is possible to see the Trinity Site from here. The Trinity Site is the spot at the nearby White Sands Missile Range where the atomic bomb was tested in 1945.

Carrizozo

The Carrizozo Museum is well worth a stop

As the county seat for Lincoln County, we expected Carrizozo to be a bustling government town. Instead, we found a nearly abandoned shell with a couple of restaurants, a gift shop or two and an extremely cool museum.

Carrizozo got its start in 1899 when the railroad came to Lincoln County. As the new railroad town boomed, the former county seat of Lincoln and the mining town of White Oaks declined. By 1913, the bustling Carrizozo was the obvious choice for a new county seat.

In 1940, Carrizozo built a new ice house and frozen food locker to match the 1938 power plant next door. Families could rent space in the locker to hold game and other foods that needed to be kept frozen. The place also sold blocks of ice for home iceboxes. By the mid-1950s, most people had freezers at home, and the locker was no longer needed. Briefly operated as a milk processing plant, the frozen food locker sat empty until the Lincoln County Historical Society renovated it into a museum in the 1990s.

The Room of the Old West was impressive

Today the museum is open extremely limited hours, so call ahead before planning a visit. Admission is free. We were the only visitors during our trip, and were given a private tour. The collection is a fascinating blend of artifacts from throughout Carrizozo’s history divided into a series of rooms and sections, each focusing on a particular type of artifact. A milliner, a model railroad exhibit and a tribute to Carrizozo’s first theater are among the highlights.

Our favorite was the “Room of the Old West,” separated from the rest of the museum by a set of saloon doors. Inside, a realistic mural blends seamlessly with actual artifacts to give the illusion of being inside an Old West saloon. At the other end of the room, a collection of saddles and a detailed history of barbed wire grabbed our attention.

The entire tour took less than an hour to complete. Though Carrizozo is small, its residents are fiercely proud of their town’s history. Carrizozo is well worth a visit on your way to or from the Valley of Fires. Walk through the museum, and then stop by the Four Winds restaurant for excellent home cooking.

Capitan

The bear cub was a living mascot for the program

Roughly 30 minutes from the Valley of Fires along the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway is the small town of Capitan, home of Smokey Bear. You may be familiar with the Smokey Bear ad campaigns–“Only you can prevent forest fires.” What is less widely known is that Smokey was a real bear.

The National Forest Service developed its fire prevention campaign during World War II, when resources were stretched thin and the Japanese used wildfires as a weapon. After the film Bambi was released in 1942, Disney loaned the title character to the campaign for one year. Keeping the animal theme, Smokey Bear was chosen as the new mascot, making his debut in 1944.

The Capitan Mountains have always been prone to wildfires, both natural and human-caused. In 1950, a particularly devastating fire ravaged the area. Firefighters discovered a tiny bear cub, orphaned and badly burned, clinging to a tree in the destroyed forest. Local rangers took in the cub and nursed him back to health, soon naming him Smokey after the campaign mascot.

When he recovered, Smokey moved to the National Zoo in Washington, DC, where he became a national hero. As the living mascot for the fire prevention campaign, Smokey started receiving so much fan mail that he was actually assigned his own zip code! He was given a mate named Goldie in 1962, but the pair never had children. Little Smokey, rescued as a cub from another Lincoln Forest fire in 1971, moved in with Smokey and Goldie as their “adopted child.”

The trail to Smokey's gravesite winds through desert plants

Smokey retired as the living mascot in 1975, passing the mantle to Little Smokey. When Smokey passed away in 1976, he was buried in the town of Capitan, close to the mountains where he lived as a cub. Smokey Bear Historical Park was built around his gravesite in 1979.

Today the site contains a small but highly informative museum with an orientation film and exhibits dedicated to conservation and forest fire prevention. Outside, the trail to Smokey’s gravesite highlights the flora and fauna of the Chihuahuan Desert, of which Capitan is a part. A small gift counter in the visitor center and a larger gift shop at the end of the trail sell all sorts of Smokey Bear memorabilia.

Our visit to Capitan lasted roughly two hours. The drive to town along the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway is breathtaking, and Smokey Bear Historical Park is extremely well-done. Kids of all ages have likely been exposed to the Smokey Bear message, and learning about the real bear adds a new layer to the experience.

Ruidoso/Ruidoso Downs

The Old Dowlin Mill was a hotspot for outlaws and prominent citizens

Ruidoso and its sister, Ruidoso Downs, are the tourist heart of the Hondo Valley. There are “Old West in a box” museums, great for people who only have limited time, as well as grocery stores and chain restaurants. The only two stops that we found especially worthwhile were the Old Dowlin Mill, a preserved sawmill and great house where Billy the Kid, Pat Garrett and other historic figures used to gather, and the Billy the Kid Visitor Center.

The Billy the Kid Visitor Center is incredibly informative

The Billy the Kid Visitor Center, in Ruidoso Downs, is a must-see for anyone planning a stay in the Hondo Valley. The center is packed with exhibits and information about the various towns in the region, including Alamogordo’s connections to the Space Race, the gypsum dunes of White Sands National Monument and, of course, Billy the Kid’s Lincoln County War.

A walk-through miniature of the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway and leaflets with suggested day trips help immensely with planning your stay. We actually got caught up for nearly an hour watching videos of local residents sharing their family histories in the region.

This sleepy village was the epicenter of the Lincoln County War

Dad and I are on an extended RV tour of the Southwest this summer, after wintering in Central Florida. Planning a cross-country trip can be tough, especially when many of the best places to see have little or no online presence. So we created a loose schedule based on the big, obvious destinations.

Our plan was to drive from Roswell, NM to Tombstone, AZ, stopping overnight at the halfway point in Deming, NM. Fortunately we ran into a wonderfully knowledgeable and very talkative employee at the visitor information center in Roswell, or we would have missed a significant chunk of history: Lincoln, New Mexico, where Billy the Kid got his start as an outlaw.

The Lincoln County War

John Tunstall threatened L.G. Murphy's monopoly

Endlessly depicted in Hollywood films, the Lincoln County War was at its heart a trade war. Then the county seat, the town of Lincoln was at the epicenter of the fight. English businessman John Tunstall arrived in Lincoln in 1876 with partner and attorney Alexander McSween. Opening a cattle ranch and mercantile, Tunstall threatened the monopoly of L.G. Murphy, long in control of government beef contracts and local farmers.

With both local law enforcement and the notorious Santa Fe ring backing Murphy, Tunstall felt threatened. He hired a motley band of outsiders and troublemakers to work for him. Tunstall provided an income and an education to his Regulators, and they provided both labor and protection. One of the Regulators was a then-unknown teenager named William H. Bonney, aka Billy the Kid.

Hard to believe this was once the "Most Dangerous Street in America"

When Tunstall was murdered by Murphy’s boys in 1878, the Regulators were deputized and assigned to bring in the murderers, as well as a few others known to be affiliated with the gang. But the violence escalated, eventually causing President Rutherford B. Hayes to name Lincoln’s only street the “Most Dangerous Street in America.” In one of the war’s most noted firefights, Sheriff William Brady, a staunch Murphy supporter, was killed. Though he took bullets from at least five different guns, Billy the Kid was blamed.

This painting depicts Billy the Kid leading the Regulators from the burning McSween home.

The Regulators lost their deputy status but refused to give up their quest for vengeance, turning outlaw instead. In 1879, they were tricked into returning to Lincoln, where they were trapped in the home of Tunstall’s attorney, Alexander McSween. Following a five-day siege, the house was set on fire by federal troops from nearby Fort Stanton, brought in to support the Murphy faction. Most of the Regulators escaped, along with McSween’s wife Susan. Alexander McSween, however, was shot in front of his home.

While most of his pals went straight or disappeared, Billy the Kid went on to become the West’s most infamous outlaw. Former pal Pat Garrett accepted an appointment as Sheriff of Lincoln County, and made hunting Billy his personal and professional goal. According to records, Pat Garrett shot and killed Billy the Kid in Fort Sumner, NM on July 14, 1881. An increasing body of evidence, though, raises serious doubts as to whether Billy was actually killed that night.

Visiting Lincoln

At the edge of town, this sign marks the beginning of Historic Lincoln

Our helpful visitor bureau employee suggested that we spend a few days checking out the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway, conveniently located between Roswell and Deming. The Byway covers 84 miles through the Hondo Valley, including a number of historic towns. But I was most excited to visit Lincoln. I wanted to walk the streets where it all happened so many years ago.

All of Lincoln's buildings must follow strict preservation codes

Lincoln today is a fantastically preserved small town. While many of the other historic towns through Arizona and New Mexico have become major tourist destinations complete with decidedly modern conveniences, Lincoln supports a population of 50-75 (depending on whom you ask) with no modern amenities at all beyond indoor plumbing and electric lights. There are no grocery stores, gas stations or fast food outlets. There is no “Greater Lincoln.” The entire town consists of carefully preserved historic buildings along a single street. Lincoln has been a National Landmark since 1960 and, according to locals, the city code is massive. Even the tiniest changes to any building must go through a series of permits and approvals to ensure that the 1870s character is preserved.

Today the Lincoln State Monument encompasses five buildings important in the Lincoln County War, as well as a detailed museum. As of 2011, all-inclusive admission is $5 for adults. Children aged 16 and under are free, as are New Mexico residents on select days.

Our Experience

The Belgians we met at this roadside sign explained that Western films are popular in Europe

Interestingly, Lincoln’s only street is a portion of US 380, which runs from Greenville, Texas to San Antonio, New Mexico. Occasional travelers happen to discover Lincoln entirely by accident. But the area is mind-bogglingly remote. Traveling from Ruidoso Downs, where we began our Lincoln exploration at the Billy the Kid Visitor Center, we rarely encountered another vehicle. We did happen to stop at a roadside marker outside Lincoln at the same time as a couple from Belgium. Dad asked, “You know about Billy the Kid in Belgium?” and the husband replied, “Of course. We do have movies!”

Victims from both sides of the war are buried here

Driving into Lincoln from that direction, be sure to stop at the cemetery. It’s off to your right less than a mile outside of town. It seems to be open at odd hours, but you can get great photos from outside the fence. Several victims from both sides of the Lincoln County War are buried there.

Lincoln is less than a mile long, and all buildings are located along the main road. It is best to park your car at the visitor center and museum, and explore the town by foot. Carry plenty of water and a few snacks. On the day of our visit, the temperature was 106 and the humidity was in the single digits. It’s easy to get dehydrated before you even realize you are thirsty.

Anderson-Freeman Museum

The museum presents a balanced account of the war

Attached to the Lincoln visitor center is the Anderson-Freeman Museum. This small but surprisingly detailed museum covers the history of Lincoln from prehistory through today. Take the time to read and digest the extensive exhibits on the Lincoln County War. Rather than taking sides, the museum presents the facts of the war with equal attention given to both factions. You can purchase tickets for the Monument sites here or at the Courthouse at the other end of town. Be sure to pick up both a free walking tour guide for Lincoln and a free driving tour guide of the surrounding area.

What to See

The Tunstall Store contains only authentic merchandise

Your walking tour map will detail 15 points of interest, including the five sites that are part of the Lincoln State Monument. We were able to complete the entire walk in approximately three hours, including stopping in at the shops along the way, talking with some of the locals, and reading each historical sign in detail. If you have a more passing interest, you can easily see all the sites in one to two hours.

In my opinion, the two stops that deserve the most time and attention are the Tunstall Store and the Lincoln County Courthouse. John Tunstall was Billy the Kid’s employer, and it was his murder that sparked the war. The store is fantastically preserved, stocked from top to bottom with the actual items that were sold there.

The hole Billy the Kid put in the courthouse wall during his dramatic escape

The Lincoln County Courthouse is no longer active, as the county seat moved to Carrizozo in 1913. But the old courthouse is arguably the single most important location in Billy the Kid history. It was originally L.G. Murphy’s mercantile, the center of the monopoly before Tunstall came to town. Murphy died in 1878.

After the Lincoln County War, James Dolan took over Tunstall’s store, and the old Murphy establishment was converted into the courthouse. It was here that Billy the Kid was held in 1881, awaiting hanging for the 1878 killing of Sheriff William Brady. Billy obtained a pistol, shot two guards, and fled the jail in a dramatic escape. Billy’s leg irons and the bullet hole he left in the wall are among the highlights.

Tips for Parents

Lincoln is a well-preserved historic town

In our experience, kids are fascinated by the Old West. However, parents should note that Lincoln is a preserved historic town, not a modern museum filled with technological marvels. The town’s story is told through photographs, maps, artifacts and a great deal of printed signage. Bring Lincoln to life for your kids by reading and summarizing the presented information, and drawing their attention to interesting artifacts.

Consider watching the films Young Guns and Young Guns II before your visit. Although not entirely historically accurate, the movies do present a fairly complete overview of the Lincoln County War and the events that followed. Action-packed and easy to digest, the films can help get your entire family excited about this most unusual little town.