Great Wolf Lodge – Grapevine, Texas

This four-story interactive water play structure is a children's haven at Great Wolf Lodge in Grapevine

Anyone familiar with the Great Wolf Lodges knows that they are in for a spectacular treat when booking a stay at this woodsy cabin-themed resort.  The 80,000 square foot onsite indoor water park at the Great Wolf Lodge Grapevine boasts a comfortable 84-degree year-round fun for all ages with pools, slides, rides, and a four-story interactive water play structure. The resort also features inviting accommodations, shopping, dining, a fitness room, spa and kids spa, a supervised teen lounge with age-appropriate internet access and games, an arcade, and activities galore for all ages. The Cub Club for younger children provides hands-on programs with fun activities, games and crafts and to keep younger children happily entertained. For more information visit their website www.greatwolf.com/grapevine/waterpark

Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort & Spa – San Antonio

The four-acre water park at the Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort & Spa in San Antonio is nestled amid verdant gardens (courtesy of Hyatt Hotels)

At only 20-minutes from historic San Antonio, the Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort and Spa includes 500 luxurious guestrooms, 27 holes of championship golf, tennis, a premier spa, a youth spa for teens, fine dining, a fitness center, and a four-acre water park with several swimming pools, man made beach and lazy river, all nestled amid the verdant gardens. The Camp Hyatt children’s program offers exciting games, arts and crafts, contests, nature hikes, swimming and more for kids ages 3-12. San Antonio also features many off-site activities for those who wish to explore its attractions including the historic Alamo, Mission Trail, SeaWorld San Antonio, and a host of museums and theme parks. For more information visit their website www.hillcountry.hyatt.com

Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort & Spa – Lost Pines

The Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort & Spa offers endless recreation for families (courtesy of Hyatt Hotels)

Renowned Hyatt hospitality greets guests with yet another Texas resort, this one along the border of the Colorado River in Lost Pines, Texas. Nestled in 405-acres of picturesque wilderness in Austin, Texas, the Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort and Spa boasts spacious guestrooms, championship golf, tennis, a fitness center, a world-class spa, youth spa for kids, horseback riding, archery, trap shooting, lots of river recreation programs from kayaking to rafting, and much more. The onsite water park features a two-story water slide with beach area, lazy river, pools, hot tubs, waterfalls and fountains for splashing fun. There are also plenty of off-site activities for those who wish to discover the nearby varied attractions. For more information visit their website www.lostpines.hyatt.com

JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country Resort & Spa – San Antonio

Views of the gorgeous Texas Hill Country surround the JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country Resort & Spa

The JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country Resort & Spa is close to many area attractions, yet far enough for families to withdraw from the hubbub of daily life. Guests can enjoy golf, tennis, the spa, fitness center, fine dining, boutique shopping, and an onsite water park with lazy river, water slides, 650-foot rapid river ride, children’s pools, adult pool, whirlpools, and activity pool with fountains and waterfalls designed to relax and rejuvenate your senses. The resort also features a kids club for children ages 4-12 with fun activities, games, arts and crafts that incorporate the beautiful wildlife and history of San Antonio. The contemporary accommodations are comfortably appointed, many with gorgeous views the surrounding Texas Hill Country. For more information visit their website www.jwsanantonio.com

La Torretta Lake Resort & Spa – Montgomery

La Torretta Lake Resort & Spa sits on the shores of beautiful Lake Conroe

La Torretta Lake Resort & Spa feels like an island escape by the shimmering shores of Lake Conroe, Texas, with its breathtaking views, endless skies, and recreation for the entire family. Conveniently situated about an hour north of Houston, this resort boasts elegant accommodations with suites and villas, a spa, fitness center, golf, tennis center, delicious dining, and more. Guests can relax or splash around at the onsite water park featuring several swimming pools including a Pollywogs pool for tots, a lazy river, and a water playground. There is also a miniature golf course, teen lounge with games, a kid’s camp for children ages 5-11 with activities and playground, and the lovely sandy beach with swimming in the lake. For more information visit their website www.latorrettalakeresort.com

Westin La Cantera Resort – San Antonio

The Westin La Cantera Resort has commanding views of the Texas Hill Country

With commanding views of the Texas Hill Country, the Westin La Cantera Resort in San Antonio, Texas is a fantastic family retreat with a wide array of recreation for all ages. It has luxurious accommodations with your choice of rooms, casitas or suites, all of which feature their celebrated Heavenly Bed® renowned for its unsurpassed comfort.  The resort also boasts two onsite golf courses, a nature trail, exceptional dining, spa, fitness center, and a kids club with exciting activities from arts and crafts to games, sports, swimming and more for children ages 4-12. The onsite water park features six sparkling pools, three hot tubs, water slides and cascading waterfalls. Complementary shuttle service is also provided to nearby shopping. For more information visit their website www.westinlacantera.com

The Woodlands Resort & Conference Center – The Woodlands

The Woodlands Resort & Conference Center rests on 28,000 wooded acres

At about 30 minutes north of Houston, The Woodlands Resort & Conference Center offers families an enchanting getaway resting on 28,000 wooded acres. Guests can enjoy two championship golf courses, tennis courts, a spa and fitness center, game room, dining, 180 miles of lush trails for hiking and biking, and a variety of accommodations with idyllic views. The onsite water park features swimming pools, a 30-foot Forest Tower with a double helix water slide, waterfall, water playground with waterspouts and fountains for splashing fun, an underwater treasure chest for kids to explore, and lots of poolside games and activities (seasonal). Area attractions include plenty of nearby shopping, dining and entertainment. For more information visit their website www.woodlandsresort.com

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San Antonio Texas Attractions

From the middle of December to the end of the month, you’ll enjoy the music and art offerings in their thirty fifth year at the Armadillo Christmas Bazaar. This well known Austin holiday event is both an art fair and a music celebration, with handmade crafts, great musical acts, and of course, visits from Santa. Decorated with trees and wreathes, the artists booths and crafts makers are supplemented by stellar live music and food offerings too. My kids loved watching a leather craftsman create designs on an amazing vest, and enjoyed listening to alt country singers while nibbling on holiday cookies.

Armadillo Christmas Bazaar

You’ll want to get outside after the bazaar, held indoors at the Palmer Center. And the best place for that is around the tree lined trails of Lady Bird Lake, a body of water created by the Colorado River. If its time for lunch, check out La Condesa in the 2nd Street area for great Mexican food, and fresh squeezed guava juice.

Once you’ve revived, there’s a host of holiday activities to choose from. Early in December, you’ll find a holiday sing along and a shoppers stroll around the Capitol Building where a massive Texas tree looms with multi-colored lights. Free gallery exhibits for all and hot chocolate for the kids make this downtown Austin tradition a truly fun event. Also early in the month is a tree lighting in Zilker Park, with Santa Claus and live music playing straight through the month of December. Ice skating rinks also abound around Austin. We went to the rink sponsored by Whole Foods and made a stop in the organic grocery chain for vegan sushi for dinner. Other rinks also offer family skating events around town.

A holiday must see is the massive Gingerbread Village at the Four Seasons Hotel. Ever seen a gingerbread Alamo? Or the Texas State Capitol topped with icing? The hotel also offers a Teddy Bear Tea with strolling carolers and a reading of the Night Before Christmas. Of course, Santa makes his presence known here, too.

Austin’s Auditorium Shores area offers a wonderful New Year’s program for families. Outdoor and indoor music, film, and dance events, open galleries and a massive, three dimensional light sculpture create an alcohol-free celebration that’s filled with children and adults. The night ends with an explosion of fireworks. The performances highlight Austin’s cultural diversity, with Mexican flamenco dancing, musical yoga, and more. Best of all, the entire event is free.

Austin at Christmas time is a lot of fun!

Earlier in December, and also free, my kids enjoyed participating in the nightly performances by the Southwest Key and East Austin College Prep’s Latino Arts Preservation, a re-enactment of a Mexican posada, the recreation of the Christmas story. Santa showed up too, along with pinatas for punching, face painting, and game booths.

Any time of year is a good time for some family biking fun, and we hit the jackpot with rentals from Mellow Johnny’s Bike Shop, with inexpensive four hour rentals and bikes in all sizes and styles. We also liked that the shop had a cafe next door and we enjoyed some tasty strawberry smoothies before heading out along a bike trail prepared for us by friendly staff members.

The smoothies didn’t keep us going all day however, and after cycling around Lady Bird Lake, we took a local’s advice and checked out the charming Justine’s, a French bistro located in the warehouse district. French you’re saying? French with children? Think crispy thin french fries and delicious onion soup, tasty quiches and salads. Large family groups and friends are common here, and the kids will love the old turn-table playing classic tunes – holiday jazz any one?

Bats may seem more Halloween creatures than Christmas critters, but the Congress Avenue Bridge is a treat in any season. Over a million bats come out of the bridge and head out to forage for bugs at dusk every day; however you’ll see more of the spectacular migration spring through autumn. While there are less winged wonders soaring the through the night sky at winter time, the Austin sunsets can be spectacular this time of year. You’ll find the best viewing from the bridge’s south-east end.

Although your kids may clamor to hang upside down with the bats, you’ll want a more traditional night’s rest. We stayed nearby at the Hotel St. Cecelia, where bungalows and studios are an option to rooms, giving families more space. We loved “Suite Four” which included an outdoor fireplace and porch. Santa won’t even need to squeeze down a chimney if he’s arriving here! My musician daughter preferred “Suite Five” that housed an upright piano, but alas, that was not available. Still, the starry Texas nights and that outdoor fireplace was conducive for family gatherings and guitar playing. This off the beaten track hotel has modern/rustic furnishings and a quirky vibe along with its spacious quarters.

The Texas State Cemetery dates to the 1850s

Blame it on years of living in New Orleans, where locals still hold picnics in the stunning above-ground cemeteries. Or blame it on a somewhat morbid fascination with all things dark yet beautiful. Regardless, Dad and I are particularly enamored by cemeteries, and make it a goal to see the major burial grounds in each city we visit. The Texas State Cemetery in Austin was a particularly interesting choice.

About the Texas State Cemetery

The cemetery is immaculately maintained

In 1851, when State Senator Edward Burleson passed away, landowner Andrew Jackson Hamilton donated 21 acres for his burial. The Texas State Cemetery opened on the site in 1854 in Austin, Texas. It is the final resting place for a long list of Texas founders including Stephen F. Austin, who was responsible for Texas’ early colonization.

Today, the cemetery houses a surprisingly expansive Visitor Center and research archives with staff librarians to assist visitors. It also boasts the shortest State Highway in Texas, the half-mile Highway 165 that runs through the grounds. New burials are still conducted at the cemetery, though eligibility is limited to Texas politicians and prominent local residents. As of 2011, the cemetery grounds are open daily from 8 to 5. The Visitor Center and archives are open the same hours Monday through Friday. Free guided tours are available for groups of 10 or more with advance notice. There is no admission fee.

Our Experience

We really enjoyed the Visitor Center

We began our visit, appropriately enough, at the Visitor Center. A boisterous school group was there when we arrived, but they left soon after. If you have the time to spare, sit down and watch the excellently produced and presented videos, which provide a terrific overview of Texas history. A small but well-chosen collection of artifacts further brings history to life.

As the outside temperature was well over 100 degrees, we decided to drive rather than hiking the grounds. The road is well-marked and easy to follow and with virtually no traffic, we had little trouble stopping to take the photos we wanted.

Make sure to grab a brochure at the Visitor Center before heading out. Most of the prominent gravesites are marked on the brochure with a bit of background information on the honored person.

The September 11 Memorial was extremely touching

Our most stunning experience was the 9/11 Memorial. Dedicated in 2003, the Memorial features a circular granite wall etched with the timeline of the September 11, 2001 terrorist attacks. The centerpiece is a pair of steel columns retrieved from Ground Zero. Unlike many memorials of that tragic day, visitors to the Texas State Cemetery are able to get close to the columns, even touching them as desired, while paying respects to the victims. It was a truly moving moment for both of us.

Tips for Parents

Take time to slow down and appreciate the scenery

The Texas State Cemetery is beautifully manicured and offers an excellent retreat for families of all ages. The stunning grounds are well-worth a visit, even if you are not particularly interested in locating the gravesites of Texas politicians. The Visitor Center offers a quick and easy-to-follow history of the state, and is small enough not to overwhelm young children. Just a mile from the Texas State Capitol building, the Texas State Cemetery offers families a much-needed break from the bustle of downtown Austin.

The sense of history is palpable throughout the property. So many pre-Civil War burial grounds have long since been abandoned and largely reclaimed by the Earth, yet this one continues to function today. Strike up a conversation with your kids as you contemplate the massive changes that Texas has undergone from those Wild West days through today.

If you plan to spend time hiking through the cemetery, keep some water and salty snacks in your car. The dry air can be quite dehydrating, but food and drinks are not permitted on the grounds. Wear plenty of sunscreen, a hat, and comfortable walking shoes. Use caution around the steel columns at the 9/11 Memorial, as there are numerous sharp edges.

The Texas State Capitol is second in size only to the US Capitol

I’m a bit of a government nut, always keeping up with the latest Senate and House debates. So when Dad and I were in Austin, Texas during the spring of 2011, I was excited to tour the Texas State Capitol complex. As it turned out, the state legislature was in session, offering us the chance to watching government in action from the observation gallery. We planned to spend an hour or two at the Capitol, but actually ended up staying for the better part of a day.

About the Texas State Capitol

The Capitol's interior is equally stunning

Opened in 1888, the Texas State Capitol building is second in size only to the United States Capitol in Washington, D.C. It is actually taller than the U.S. Capitol by 15 feet. The Capitol Extension opened in 1993, doubling the Capitol’s square footage. In 1994, the former General Land Office, located across the grounds from the Capitol building, opened as the Capitol Visitors Center.

As of 2011, the Capitol Visitors Center is open 9 to 5 Monday through Saturday and noon to 5 on Sunday. The Capitol building and Extension are open 7 a.m. until 10 p.m. Monday through Friday and 9 to 8 on weekends. Hours may be extended during legislative sessions. There is no admission fee.

Free tours of the Capitol and Extension are available Monday through Friday 8:30 to 4:30, Saturday 9:30 to 3:30 and Sunday noon to 3:30. The 45-minute tours depart roughly every hour, subject to tour guide availability.

Parking in the nearby garage is free for 2 hours and $1 per half-hour after that. The maximum daily charge is generally $8, although this may be higher on weekends during special events.

Our Experience

The Capitol Visitors Center is packed with interesting exhibits

Dad and I arrived around 11:00, and started our adventure at the Capitol Visitors Center. An information desk just inside the entrance was packed with helpful brochures on the Capitol, Austin, and the entire state of Texas. The friendly front desk staff provided a guide map and a bit of information, and we were on our way.

Several rooms of exhibits provided an excellent overview of daily life throughout the state’s history. Numerous exhibits were interactive, allowing children to try on a cowboy hat or attempt to learn some of the most common cattle brands of the Old West. Cowboys, Native Americans and early settlers were all given space in the spotlight, and some exhibits spoke to the challenges of heading west into an uncertain future. A collection of computers provided quizzes and interactive experiences, though they were packed with local school groups on the day of our visit.

We ended up in the middle of a protest!

Leaving the Capitol Visitors Center behind, we crossed the immaculately manicured grounds to the Capitol building and found ourselves in the midst of a protest! It appeared to be something to do with educational funding, and the protestors were polite and well-behaved. It was good to see that Austin’s citizens take their rights seriously and are not afraid to express their opinions. There was a fairly heavy security presence, but the officers were unobtrusive and clearly there just to make sure that nothing got out of hand.

The tour was highly engaging

Making our way through the crowd, we entered the Capitol building. A fairly large group of people was milling around inside, but we made it through the security checkpoint (metal detector) quickly. A walking tour was about to start, so we milled around and took a few lobby photos while we waited.

The tour was fascinating. Our guide was extremely well-versed in the history of both the Capitol and the state, and he pointed out quite a few design features and hidden tributes that we never would have found on our own. He was particularly good at engaging visitors of all ages and backgrounds, making everyone in the group feel included. We walked through the entire Capitol building and Extension in 45 minutes, maintaining a brisk but not strenuous pace.

Lunch was excellent and surprisingly reasonable

The tour ended just down the hall from the Capitol Grill, which is open to the public. Before the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001, visitors to the U.S. Capitol were permitted to dine in that building’s eateries, including the famed Senate Dining Room. We were big fans of that experience, so we were very much looking forward to recreating it on a smaller scale.

We were not disappointed! Though Texas does not serve the U.S. Capitol’s legendary bean soup, we found the food top-notch and the prices surprisingly reasonable. Portions are large, so plan to split if you have smaller appetites.

We had an excellent birds-eye view of the action

After lunch, we were ready to see government at work, so we headed upstairs to the Visitor Galleries. There we had a birds-eye view of debates taking place on the floor below. Although we are not familiar with the issues faced by Texas residents and their elected leaders, the debates held our attention for quite awhile.

When we grew weary of politics, we wandered out to the Capitol Extension to take a closer look at a few things that were mentioned on the tour. On our way out, we stopped in the surprisingly well-stocked gift shop.

Tips for Parents

Don't miss the elegant outdoor balconies

The Texas State Capitol is well-worth a visit for families of all ages. The Capitol Visitor Center offers interactive exhibits that are fun for kids yet engaging for adults. The free guided tour is fast-paced and fun, yet highly informative, and simply wandering through the building is a treat.

If your visit occurs while the legislature is in session, take a few minutes to sit down and watch. Observing the democratic process in action is both educational and entertaining, and gives kids real-world experience to complement the lessons they learn in school.

The exhibit halls were massive!

When Dad and I headed out on our Western adventure in the spring of 2011, we actually knew relatively little about the region. But we were eager to learn as much as we could. In states as diverse as New Mexico, Utah and Arizona, we sought out major museum complexes and tiny roadside attractions looking for the truth behind each state’s tourist hype.

While we were successful everywhere we went, we truly hit the jackpot in Austin, Texas. As the name implies, The Story of Texas paints a detailed picture of that state, no easy feat for a place that was once an independent country and is second only to Alaska in size.

About the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum

Plan to spend at least one full day at the museum

Five years in the making and named for the Lieutenant Governor who worked tirelessly toward its creation, the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum opened in downtown Austin in 2001. Featuring a sweeping four-story rotunda, three floors of highly interactive exhibits, an IMAX theatre, a separate special effects theater, a 200-seat café and an underground parking garage, the museum is truly “Texas-sized.”

As of 2011, the museum is open 9 to 6 Monday through Saturday and noon to 6 on Sunday. The IMAX shows a mix of documentaries and nature films, IMAX classics, and first-run blockbusters. Although the schedule varies, in general the documentaries and nature films are shown early in the day, and first-run movies may have one or two screenings after the museum closes at night.

Museum admission is $9 for adults, $8 for students with ID, $7 for seniors over age 65 and military members, and $6 for kids aged 4-17. There is a slight surcharge for combination tickets that include the Texas Spirit special effects theater and/or the IMAX. Garage parking is $8 for the day.

Our Experience

The first floor focuses on the influence of the state's bioregions

Dad and I arrived just after 9, prepared for a long day of exploration. We opted for tickets that included the museum exhibits and the Texas Spirit Theater, guessing correctly that we would not have time to take in an IMAX film.

We began on the first floor, which is themed to “Encounters with the Land.” The exhibits on this floor track Texas history through the exploration of its diverse landscape. The stage is set by a thorough examination of Texas’ wildly varied bioregions. Further exhibits focus on ancient Native American peoples, Spanish and French settlers, and westward expansionists. The story of their interactions is told against the backdrop of the role that the land played in their daily lives.

The Alamo played an important role in Building the Texas Identity

The second floor is dedicated to “Building the Texas Identity.” Despite having been part of nations as diverse as France, Spain and Mexico, Texas has always been fiercely independent. Following the Texas Revolution, Texas became a sovereign republic in 1836. It became a U.S. state in 1845, only to secede as part of the Confederacy in 1861.

We were fascinated by the exhibits on this floor, which examine in great detail the factors that led to Texans’ strong independence. A particular highlight was a reproduction of Stephen F. Austin’s jail cell in Mexico City, where we sat and listened to a voiceover explain in Austin’s own words the importance of the coming Revolution. We also enjoyed the New Beginnings exhibit, dedicated to the role that women played in Texas’ social reform during the late 19th and early 20th century.

Don't miss The Star of Destiny at the Texas Spirit Theater

The second floor is also home to the Texas Spirit Theater. Our tickets offered the choice of two productions: The Star of Destiny and Wild Texas Weather. Having already spent several weeks experiencing Texas’ wild weather firsthand, we opted for The Star of Destiny. The character of Sam Houston served as our guide through many of Texas’ landmark events, from the Galveston Hurricane of 1900 to the Saturn V rocket launch. In-theater special effects, including a few built into the seats, help put audiences in the middle of the action. More than a few times, we were caught completely off guard!

By this time, we were starving, so we made our way to The Story of Texas Café. As you might expect, the menu was packed with local favorites from Tex-Mex to oversized loaded potatoes. They say things are bigger in Texas, and the portions are no exception. Plan to split unless your appetites are enormous! A limited kids’ menu is available.

The Texas Longhorns were important in Creating Opportunity for Texans

After lunch, we headed to the third floor, “Creating Opportunity.” This floor traces Texas’ history from its 1936 centennial through today. The state has come a long way in the intervening years, from modern ranching techniques through the oil boom and into new developments in medicine and technology. Plan to spend some time on this floor, as three theaters (included in your admission) vie for attention. In a recreation of the old Abilene rail station, video presentations show off nine distinct regions of Texas. Meanwhile, the Cowboy Theater highlights the differences between the Hollywood version of cowboy life and the reality. Nearby, a video presentation narrated by Walter Cronkite explores the role that oil played in revolutionizing life in Texas.

Tips for Parents

The rotunda floor depicts themes of Texas history

Dad and I found it difficult to see everything The Story of Texas has to offer in a single day. Plan to spend two days if possible, or sit down with a guide map when you arrive and prioritize your activities. It is easy to get caught up in the various interactive exhibits, so plan to see fewer things in a single day than you otherwise might.

We saw The Star of Destiny with a theater full of young children on a school trip. Although most seemed to thoroughly enjoy it, a few of the youngest seemed frightened by the special effects. Explain to your kids in advance that their seats will move and perhaps bump or poke them unexpectedly. Some of the kids we were with had seen the show before, and those who knew what to expect squealed and giggled rather than becoming upset. If your child is very sensitive, consider holding her in your lap during the show.

Expect a lot of questions. The Story of Texas seems to fire up the imaginations of visitors of all ages, but the full story is long and complex, and younger children may have difficulty holding all the information in their heads. Refer to the detailed informational signs for assistance, and never hesitate to ask an employee to help answer questions.

Note that photography is not permitted in the museum. All photos for this article are used by special permission of the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum.

The LBJ Museum is on the grounds of The University of Texas

Dad is a mid-generation Baby Boomer. His teen years were filled with the hallmarks of the turbulent 1960s–the Beatles, the Vietnam War, race riots and protests and seismic shifts in the cultural zeitgeist. But perhaps no single event had a bigger effect on him than the 1963 assassination of President John F. Kennedy. As Dad was not yet a teenager then, it is actually somewhat surprising to hear just how much he remembers about Kennedy’s brief time in office. But he never talks as much about President Lyndon B. Johnson, who presided over the remainder of the 1960s.

Nonetheless, when we were in Austin, Texas, during the spring of 2011, Dad really wanted to see the LBJ Library and Museum. I was curious to learn more about this President I knew so little about, so I readily agreed to the trip. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I ended up having a fantastic time getting to know the 36th President of the United States.

About the LBJ Library and Museum

Lady Bird Johnson used this office for 25 years

The LBJ Library and Museum was dedicated on May 22, 1971 on a 30-acre site at The University of Texas. In 2012, the property is set to undergo a $10 million dollar renovation and expansion, so call ahead if you plan to visit during the year. As of 2011, the museum is open daily 9-5, closed only on Christmas Day. The Archives are open weekdays 9-5 and closed on federal holidays. There is no admission fee, and the museum offers a large, free parking lot. Pay close attention when you park, though, as the free visitor lot is flanked by lots only open to university pass holders.

Interestingly, the LBJ Library and Museum is the only Presidential Library without an admission fee. President Johnson insisted that any library bearing his name should be free and open to all. The winding exhibit halls do an excellent job of telling the story of Lyndon Baines Johnson, his wife, Lady Bird, and their children, Lynda and Luci. Throughout the museum, the human story is framed by the cultural and political story of the United States in the 1960s. Through January 2, 2012, an entire exhibit hall is dedicated to a featured exhibit entitled “Left to Right: Radical Movements of the 1960s.” If you have the opportunity to catch this exhibit, we highly recommend it!

Our Experience

The building is flanked by flower beds

We arrived at the museum around noon. From the parking lot, you must cross a breezeway and a small park area featuring some of Lady Bird’s beloved flowers. We took a few minutes to stop and enjoy the park before entering the building.

The docents at the front desk are extremely friendly and helpful, and always eager to talk about President Johnson. If you have time to spare, ask them a few questions and enjoy the stories.

We began in the small theater, where a short overview film plays multiple times throughout the day. The movie provides an excellent introduction, and captivates the imaginations of visitors of all ages. The museum exhibits follow a winding but easy to follow path, saving visitors the trouble of constantly referring to a map!

A reproduction of President Johnson's Oval Office

As a huge fan of retro technology, I was particularly excited to see the recreation of the Oval Office as it looked during Johnson’s presidency. A photo gallery shows other rooms of the White House during the Johnsons’ time in residence.

The First Lady’s Gallery is unique in that it includes Lady Bird Johnson’s actual office, which she used for 25 years. The Gallery also offers numerous audiovisual presentations, photographs and bits of memorabilia that reveal a great deal about the former First Lady.

The Radical Movements exhibit was fascinating

Dad and I were both spellbound by the Radical Movements exhibit. Dad was a Radical during that era, and he basked in a great deal of nostalgia looking at old posters and buttons. I am fascinated by political movements in general, and those of the ‘60s in particular, so I appreciated the detailed look at the various movements.

We ended up spending more than three hours carefully examining the various displays. We would have stayed a bit longer, but it was long past lunchtime. If your interest is more casual, you could see the highlights in roughly two hours.

Freedom Riders

We just happened to be in town at the same time as Civil Rights legend Julian Bond. Mr. Bond was a founding member of the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee, an activist politician, and a long-term president of the NAACP. On May 4, 2011, we were fortunate to attend an event hosted by Mr. Bond at the LBJ Museum.

The evening began with a special sneak peek at the first 15 minutes of the then-unreleased PBS documentary, Freedom Riders. The documentary tracks the Freedom Rides, a 1961 non-violence movement in which mixed-race groups of men and women took public buses into the Deep South. The Freedom Rides drew attention to the Jim Crow policies of segregation and sanctioned violence against minorities. After the sneak preview, Mr. Bond spoke at length about the Civil Rights Movement, his personal experiences, and his view of civil rights today.

The event was held at the museum to celebrate the upcoming opening of a temporary exhibit on the Freedom Riders. Though we were not able to see the exhibit, the evening was one I will never forget. The museum regularly hosts similar events, so check to see if anything is going on during your visit.

A great way to see the Congress Avenue bats

Austin, Texas prides itself on being unusual. In fact, the city’s slogan, proudly repeated by tourists and locals alike, is “Keep Austin Weird.” Despite its status as the state capital, Austin is much more reminiscent of the New Orleans’ French Quarter than a traditional government town.

Perhaps the crown jewel in Austin’s “weird” title is the reverence it displays for a colony of Mexican free-tailed bats. Spending the spring, summer and early fall under the Congress Avenue Bridge, the bats’ nightly departure in search of food is a major tourist draw. Although you can watch the flight for free along the bridge, Dad and I opted for a river cruise with Capital Cruises.

About the Bat Cruise

The Capital Cruises bat boat

Established in 1991, Capital Cruises conveniently docks outside the Hyatt Regency Austin on Ladybird Lake, which is actually a segment of Texas’ Colorado River (not connected to the more famous Colorado River further west). Paid parking is available at the Hyatt, while a free public lot is within easy walking distance.

As of 2011, the cruise costs $10 for adults, $8 for seniors and $5 for kids aged 3 to 12. Those aged 2 and under are free. Cruise times vary by season, so check the Bat Cruise official website for the latest updates. Guests are asked to arrive 20 to 30 minutes before departure.

Our Experience

The giant bat is kitschy but fun

Dad and I arrived at approximately 7:30 p.m. for our 8:00 cruise. The atmosphere at the dock is quite friendly and laid-back, and the staff chatted easily with guests as we awaited our departure. Our guide encouraged everyone to visit the hotel restrooms, as there are no bathroom facilities on the boat. If you’re hungry, an ice cream cart sometimes stops by the dock.

The boat was a large pontoon filled with plastic chairs, but our attention was drawn to the giant bat at the rear. Pretty imposing and a great reminder of what was to come! As the boat filled up, our guide encouraged everyone to squeeze together so that late arriving groups could sit together. Food and beverages are allowed on board.

Austin's historic downtown

We left the dock promptly on time, heading away from the Congress Avenue Bridge. Dad and I were pleased to discover that the first half of the bat cruise is a riverboat tour of Austin. Our guide had a nearly encyclopedic knowledge of the city, and pointed out historic buildings all along the way.

There is a lot of history in Austin, making a guided tour a virtual requirement for developing a deeper understanding. What better way to learn history than kicked back on a relaxing river cruise? Our guide was happy to field questions, and our group was pretty talkative.

The Bats

The column of bats looked almost solid

After the historical portion of the cruise, our guide turned the boat around and headed toward the Congress Avenue Bridge. The bat flight actually started earlier than expected that evening, and our guide wasted no time in getting us into position. Approximately 1.5 million bats fly each evening, though, so we didn’t miss a thing. I’m actually glad that the bats started flying before we got there, because it was quite impressive to see the massive column of bats from far away and then gradually draw closer until we were directly underneath.

Ladybird Lake is popular, particularly when the bats are flying. Our boat was joined by other tour boats and a variety of watercraft including canoes and kayaks. We also had a great view of people lined up along the bridge.

The flight pattern was intricate

Our guide proved to have just as much knowledge about bats as he did about Austin’s history. As we watched the bats swarm overhead, our guide shared facts and figures about the Congress Avenue Bridge colony and Mexican free-tailed bats in general.

The sheer number of bats is awe-inspiring. At times it almost looked like a solid wall. The bats’ echolocation is phenomenal, and their flight path reminded me of a very intricate ballet. Apparently Mexican free-tailed bats are so highly maneuverable that they can even dodge a bullet!

As the number of bats flying out began to dwindle, our guide negotiated the boat back to shore. Although the cruise was over, several people stayed to chat. There was no feeling of being rushed off the boat.

Tips for Parents

It was a beautiful sunset

There were several kids on our boat and on the other tour boats we saw. All were absolutely enthralled with both the river cruise portion and, especially, the bats. Unless your kids have a particular fear of bats, I see no reason to avoid this cruise.

Make sure everyone keeps their mouths closed and their eyes protected while underneath the bats’ flight path. Despite assurances by our guide that guano is used in a wide range of consumer products, bat droppings aren’t the sort of thing I want in my mouth or eyes! I did get a drop on my forehead, but unlike bird droppings, guano is not particularly messy. Several people on our boat were wearing hats.

Advance reservations are recommended, though not always required. Cruises are typically available from March through October, depending on weather and the bats’ migration. Austin, Texas can be quite warm, so make sure everyone is well hydrated and wearing sunscreen. Cruises generally depart shortly before sunset.

The Museum of the Weird honors the dime museum tradition

With the official slogan, “Keep Austin Weird,” Austin, Texas is filled with a strong, independent pride. The center of the live music scene and a popular location for street festivals, the 6th Street Historic District is a pedestrian-friendly strip filled with bars, restaurants and shops of every description. It is also a natural home for the Museum of the Weird. Dad and I visited the museum during the Pecan Street Festival this year.

Dime Museums

To fully appreciate the Museum of the Weird, it is necessary to understand the historical context. Popularized by great showmen such as P.T. Barnum, dime museums were all the rage in the late 1800s. For only ten cents, city dwellers could enjoy the same lowbrow and often shocking displays that those in rural areas experienced with the traveling sideshows. Barnum’s American Museum, on Broadway in New York City, set the stage for the dime museums that followed. Barnum coined the phrase “edutainment,” a blend of education and entertainment that is used today to describe places like Walt Disney World’s Epcot.

Museum of the Weird pays homage to its predecessors

Dime museums introduced visitors to the exotic, the appalling and the disturbing in a time when information about the wider world was difficult to obtain. Visitors flocked to the museums by the thousands to see two-headed animals, flea circuses, feats of strength, magicians and mummies. Human “freaks,” including Barnum’s General Tom Thumb, were often featured.

With few regulations and intense pressure to create newer and more exciting experiences, dime museums often resorted to trickery and outright fraud. Barnum himself realized that visitors were lingering too long, so he put up signs stating “To the Egress.” Thinking they would find a new and exciting exhibit, visitors eagerly followed the signs–only to find themselves walking out the exit doors. To see the rest of the museum, they would have to stand in line and pay a new admission fee.

Dime museums fell by the wayside in the early 20th century. Increasingly sophisticated audiences, concerns about the human rights of “freaks,” tougher regulations, and improved access to worldwide news worked together to end the era of the dime museum. By the mid-20th century, the dime museum seemed firmly relegated to the history books.

Austinite Brian Brushwood helped usher in the modern freak show

In the late 20th century, public tastes changed yet again. Self-proclaimed “freaks” began using body modification, fire eating and extreme stunts to create a sideshow renaissance. Bizarre magicians such as Brian Brushwood (an Austin native), Criss Angel and Matt the Knife, as well as heavily physically modified performers such as Lizardman, have become the public face of the new sideshows.

The increased attention to modern freaks has created a resurgence of interest in the old freak shows, including the dime museums. A handful of new dime museums have opened around the country. Today’s museums present traditional displays as well as historical information on the dime museums of old. If you are interested in learning more about the dime museum tradition, check out the City University of New York’s virtual recreation of Barnum’s American Museum.

Museum of the Weird

The Museum is inside the Lucky Lizard gift shop

Like the best roadside attractions, the Museum of the Weird is hidden at the back of a T-shirt shop. Beside T-shirts of every description, Lucky Lizards is packed with posters and a wide range of unusual souvenirs. As of 2011, museum admission is $5 for adults and $2 for children under age 8. If you buy a T-shirt, you get free admission. If you buy a Lucky Lizards or Museum of the Weird T-shirt, you get two free admissions. Tickets are sold at the gift shop register.

Admission tickets, which are yours to keep, resemble old carnival tickets with bright print and slightly antiquated wording. Show your ticket at the old-fashioned barker’s booth at the rear of the store, and then slip through the turnstile and back in time.

Inside the Museum

Fire eating is an old sideshow tradition

The museum is dimly lit, with narrow passages, and is stuffed to overflowing with all sorts of bizarre exhibits. Each display is well labeled with informational signs that provide some background. Look for mummies, taxidermied animals with various physical mutations, ghostly photography, legendary monsters and Bigfoot’s footprints. One wall is dedicated to the haunted history of Austin.

In the dime museum tradition, the collection is a mix of authentic artifacts and outright fabrications. Though museum staff is happy to point out exactly which items are which, Dad and I had a ton of fun trying to figure it out for ourselves. Look for seams, stitches, body parts that are not quite aligned, and other small details that are out of whack on the fakeries.

For us, the most unexpected and interesting part was the sideshow performer. She met us in the back room of the museum and invited us out onto the porch for a demonstration. The private show consisted of “the Human Blockhead,” a stunt in which the performer inserts a nail up her nose, and a variety of fire eating stunts. Tips are appreciated but not required.

We have seen these stunts at various times over the years, but always as part of a large and elaborate theater show. What a treat to get a private performance, up close, with the opportunity to ask questions and learn more about how the stunts are done!

Tips for Parents

Some displays are fairly creepy

Although most kids seemed to enjoy themselves, we did see an unaccompanied brother and sister. The girl was probably around 12, and the boy maybe 7 or 8. They came through the turnstiles just after we did, and the girl froze in place. She kept saying she was scared and didn’t want to go through. After a few minutes, the kids steeled themselves and headed forward past us, into the museum. I don’t know what happened to them, but I suggest that parents go through with their kids rather than sending them in alone.

Be prepared for a variety of questions. As they have for over 100 years, dime museums continue to capture the imaginations of children and adults alike. Depending on your kids’ ages and interests, the museum can spark interesting discussions on topics ranging from the plausibility of ghost sightings to the ways in which people can be manipulated.

The museum is relatively small and is easy to see in an hour or so. It is also fairly quiet and uncrowded, even during busy street festivals, making it an excellent place to relax and decompress. So on your next trip to Austin, why not stop by to see the cream of the crop in 19th century entertainment?

We were fortunate on our little day trip to be able to leave our car in the parking structure of a family member’s office because parking in downtown Austin can be a hassle.  Generally you’re forced to park either in a metered spot on the street or in a paid parking structure or lot.  Both of these options can take you several blocks away from your destination so you can end up having quite a walk.  Admission to the Austin Children’s Museum will provide you with a somewhat discounted rate at certain parking garages so be sure to check out their website (www.austinkids.org) for details before you visit.  On this occasion it was nice to be spared the frustration of finding a parking spot and our short walk to the Children’s Museum gave us a chance to look around a bit.  

Photo courtesy of mexic-artemuseum.org.

We were sidetracked almost immediately by a museum we stumbled across about a block from the ACM.  Called the Mexic-Arte Museum, it featured Mexican/Mexican-American fine art and looked so interesting we couldn’t help but stop for a minute to check it out.  The art on display was created by Latino artists from all over Mexico, Central and South America, and the United States.  Although unfortunately, we didn’t have time to enjoy all of the exhibits, we did go through the gift shop which had a variety of items both on display and for sale including authentic clothing, art work, jewelry, and pottery.  The art we could glimpse on the other side of the shop looked truly beautiful and we plan to explore it more fully on our next trip to Austin.  

Our son in front of his favorite piece of art in downtown Austin, TX.

As we left the Mexic-Arte Museum and continued to the ACM, we passed a number of large street sculptures created by local artists.  Our son’s favorite was a giant, brightly painted guitar.  Although it took us a couple minutes to drag him away from it, he was quickly distracted once we entered the doors of the Children’s Museum.  The first thing he saw as we walked in was a huge wooden train table and miniature city.  It was just his size and he loved playing with all the other kids gathered around it!   

Our son playing at the train table at the Austin Children's Museum.

When he was finally ready to move on, we headed upstairs to check out the attractions there.  On the second floor we found a room full of large, wooden blocks along with bright orange safety vests and hard hats.   

Our son dressed up as a construction worker at the Austin Children's Museum.

Our son enjoyed dressing like a construction worker and playing with the blocks for a while before dragging us into another room where he got to operate a miniature crane and bulldozer.  Then we were off to the “Tinkerer’s Workshop.”  Though this area was designed for children a little older than our son, he still enjoyed building his own car and racing it down a ramp, making a parachute drop, and creating his own robot out of cardboard and brads (all with the help of daddy of course)!  

After spending well over an hour on the second floor, we eventually found our way downstairs again and began to wander through the rest of the exhibits.  On the first floor we found a series of hands-on displays centered on motion, a little farm (The “Rising Star Ranch” designed for children under two) and the miniature “Global City.” This last exhibit seemed to be the most popular with the kids.  Our son quickly joined in the play and was soon dressed in an apron, serving us food in the little kitchen.  Then he ‘worked’ the cash register in the grocery store before heading to the veterinarian’s office to help make all the (stuffed) animals feel better.  He loved dressing up in all the different rooms and interacting with the other children as they played too!   

Our son playing in the kitchen of the "Global City" at the Austin Children's Museum.

Once he found the small train station above the grocery store though, he was hooked.  A real train was running around the track, passing through the station and through a make-believe countryside before emerging on a raised platform over the exhibit floor.  He spent the rest of the time at the museum watching its progress and running along beside it for as long as he was able!  He enjoyed his day at the museum so much that even now that we’re home again, he still talks about wanting to go back and this time, taking grandma and grandpa too!  He was so worn out by the time we left that we barely kept him awake for our lunch at a little outdoor café around the corner.  He did perk up a bit when he got to throw bread crumbs to the waiting birds, but he was asleep almost as soon as we put him in his car seat for the drive home.  

My husband and son at the Austin Children's Museum.

Now for a few museum tips…  The Austin Children’s Museum is quite popular and can get very busy.  For parents who don’t want to fight through crowds of school-age children on field trips and tours, the museum does offer “off” days and times when there are no tours scheduled.  Also, while there is a storage rack with hangers for diaper bags and purses just off the museum’s entry way, there are no lockers so be careful of what you leave unattended.  Though there is room for stroller parking beneath this rack, space is limited so you might not get a spot if it’s crowded; I wore my three-month old in a front pack all day instead and she seemed quite content!  Finally, the museum offers a variety of story times and guided activities each day of the week; a calendar of these events can be found on their website.   

For more information on the Austin Children’s Museum including hours, pricing, exhibits, and activities, please visit their website at www.austinkids.org.