Verde Canyon Railroad: Arizona’s Other Grand Canyon

The historic engines are worth a closer look

Central Arizona’s Verde Valley is a hidden treasure. With the Verde River as a natural water source, the region was settled in the late 19th and early 20th century when rich veins of copper were found in the local mountains. Although today the Verde Valley is best known for the resort town of Sedona, Clarksdale’s Verde Canyon Railroad is one of the region’s highlights.

About Verde Canyon Railroad

Spend some time in the old depot

Easily accessible from Sedona via beautiful, scenic 89A, the Verde Canyon Railroad departs from historic Clarkdale. The railroad opened in 1912 as part of the copper mining operation in nearby Jerome, but today is solely a tourist route from Clarkdale to the ghost town of Perkinsville. The historic railroad was named an Arizona state treasure in 2005.

The four-hour journey departs at 1:00 p.m. on select dates. Specialty evening trains, including a wine tasting ride, depart at 5:30 p.m. on some summer days. The schedule varies widely by season, so visit the official website for details well in advance of your trip. Prices vary for the evening departures.

The Verde Canyon Railroad offers three classes of service. Both coach and first class offer unlimited access to open-air cars with wooden, high-back bench seats, allowing visitors to take unobstructed photos. Caboose seating offers private open-air viewing at both the front and the back of the car.

The coach seats can be reversed

Coach class seating is in comfortable, climate-controlled vintage Pullman cars. Each seat is a two-passenger bench, and seats can be turned to face each other, allowing a family of four to enjoy the ride together. Snacks and both alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages are available for purchase. As of 2011, coach seating costs $54.95 for adults, $49.95 for seniors over age 65, and $34.95 for children aged 2 to 12. Under age 2 is free.

First class offers comfort and style

First class mirrors the grace and romance of traditional rail travel. Seating arrangements depend on the size of the group. Parties of two are seated at a two-top table in comfortable, oversized chairs that face each other. Larger groups sit on overstuffed sofas facing each other with a coffee table between. A buffet of heavy hors d’oeuvres is included in the price, as are bottled water and a champagne toast (apple juice for the kids). Sodas and full bar service are offered at your seat, and are reasonably priced. As of 2011, first class tickets are $79.95 for all ages.

The Caboose offers quiet luxury

The Caboose provides the ultimate in luxury, privacy and good taste. Available only to private parties, the Caboose is outfitted as if it was the private rail car of Senator William A. Clark, founder of Clarkdale. Sumptuous wood paneling, luxurious leather chairs, cupola seats, a surprisingly well-appointed private restroom and upgraded food service are among the highlights. As of 2011, the Caboose costs $600 for parties of up to six. Although the website states that the Caboose is for adults only, this is no longer the case. Children are now welcome in the Caboose.

Our Experience

Arrive early to see the small museum

We arrived at approximately 11 a.m. for our 1 p.m. departure. Our first stop was the John Bell Museum. The free museum, housed in an old boxcar, was packed with interesting memorabilia from the train’s history. A short video described the ride and showed off some of the scenery, setting the stage for what was to come.

A well-stocked gift shop and a small café are also located at the depot. If you have splurged on First class tickets, though, you might want to skip the café. The appetizers in First class are easily enough to create a filling lunch. Shaded seating is plentiful and the grounds are beautifully manicured. Plan to spend at least an hour exploring the depot.

It's easy to make a meal from the heavy appetizers

We were seated in First class, near the midpoint of the train. You are assigned to a car but not to a specific seat. Our car hostess directed each group to the proper side of the train for the size of the group–parties of two at the café tables and larger groups in the sofa seating. We took a table near the buffet, across from a family that consisted of a 12-year-old boy with his mother and grandfather. They were terrific traveling companions, and the boy seemed to thoroughly enjoy himself.

On each table were fresh bottles of water and a bowl of chips. The buffet spread was highly impressive–fresh Caesar salad, mini-sub sandwiches, an assortment of fresh vegetables, cheese and crackers, and wonderfully decadent brownie bites. Although each item was cut into bite-size pieces, we were encouraged to take as much as we wanted. Our car was full, and there was plenty of food for seconds and even thirds. Under safe food handling laws, the railroad staff is required to throw out the leftovers upon reaching Perkinsville, so don’t be shy about taking as much as you like.

Each car provides easy access to an open-air car. Both the enclosed and open-air cars are staffed by well-trained attendants who are excellent at taking care of guests, answering questions, and pointing out sights along the way. The tour is fully narrated, but the car attendants add a layer of personalized service to the experience.

Verde Canyon

Verde Canyon was stunning

Unlike the more famous Grand Canyon Railway, which goes TO the Grand Canyon, the Verde Canyon Railroad actually travels THROUGH the Verde Canyon. Sheer rock walls, a pitch-black tunnel, impossible-seeming bridges and a plethora of wildlife are among the highlights. It was quite hot on the day we visited, so Dad and I kept going back to the air-conditioned car. But before we knew it, we were heading back out to the open-air car for another must-see photo opportunity.

The end of the line is Perkinsville, a ghost town that was once a crucial water stop for the railroad. At its peak, an estimated 12 families lived in town. Today the still-standing buildings are perhaps best known for their appearance in the 1960s film, How the West Was Won.

The locomotive switches ends at Perkinsville

Smokers will be happy to note that during the Perkinsville stop, ashtrays are provided in the open air cars. Whether you smoke or not, it’s worth going outside to watch the locomotive switching process. Instead of turning the train around, railroad engineers simply move the locomotive to the other end!

The return trip to Clarkdale is intentionally mellow and relaxed. Little narration is provided, but the car attendants are happy to answer questions or help you set up photographs that you may have missed the first time. “Verde Canyon Rocks” are offered on the return trip. Just a few dollars get you a sizeable package of chocolate candies that really do resemble rocks. We were staying at an RV park in nearby Cottonwood. Out of curiosity, I compared the look of the candies to the rocks at the RV park. I literally could not tell the difference! The candy is semi-sweet and surprisingly good.

Tips for Parents

The open-air cars provide room to move around

Unlike a car or an airplane, trains encourage passengers to get up and walk around. There is plenty of space in both the enclosed and open-air cars for kids to burn off energy. The 12-year-old across from us kept up an almost frantic pace going back and forth between cars, while a toddler crawled on the floor. Kids must be accompanied by an adult while in the open-air cars.

Entering the tunnel was exciting for all ages

There is a great deal to look at, and the kids seemed fascinated on the ride to Perkinsville. Since the return trip follows the same route, it may be slightly harder to keep children focused. Our car attendant spent a great deal of time chatting with individual families, and was great at handling kids. But children may want to bring a book, a small toy, or a handheld game system for backup entertainment on the ride back to Clarkdale.

The Verde Canyon Railroad was a true hidden gem. Top-notch service and mind-boggling scenery make the railroad a definite must-do. In addition, every employee we encountered demonstrated a real pride and love for the railroad. If you have the funds, consider splurging on First class. The food service and increased comfort are well worth the additional cost.

Some of the train cars are wheelchair-accessible via a lift. Let the train staff know when you make your reservation that you require an accessible car. Staff does their best to accommodate last-minute wheelchair parties, but it may be impossible if the accessible cars are already booked.

About the Author: Lisa is a full-time travel writer. She lives in an RV with her disabled father and writes about their experiences. Although she has no children of her own, Lisa loves being an Aunt to her own relatives and the children of all her friends. You can follow her adventures on her blog, Travel Confessions.