Our new travel trailer is long and heavy.

Dad and I spent the first seven years of our full-time RV lifestyle dumb and happy. Although my parents did as much research as they could before buying their first travel trailer, there were innumerable things that simply never came up. Brake controllers, for instance. When we began shopping for a new travel trailer in March 2012, every salesperson we met was appalled that we did not have a brake controller. This meant that we had towed the trailer for seven years without any way for the trailer brakes to engage! Luckily, we never had any incidents, even when crossing the Continental Divide. Still, going without a brake controller is not exactly a recommended activity. So when we bought our new trailer, we also invested the $150 in a good brake controller.

Our Saga

A traditional sway control hitch works for many vehicle combinations.

We also knew next to nothing about hitches. When my parents bought their trailer, the salesman recommended a weight distributing hitch with sway control. He sold them an Equal-i-zer, a popular midrange brand that was perfectly suited for that particular trailer and tow vehicle combination. However, our new trailer is both longer, at 31 feet, and heavier, at 7400 pounds loaded, than the old one. It is also rear-heavy, since we have opposing rear slides. Meanwhile, our tow vehicle is a Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer. It can handle the trailer, but needs a bit of help with stability. While the Equal-i-zer is a fantastic hitch, it was no longer right for our particular combination.

We upgraded to a Blue Ox, a more robust hitch with fabulous customer ratings. But for reasons that we simply could not fathom, the Blue Ox did not control our trailer sway at all. We had it readjusted several times, but eventually came to the conclusion that it simply would not work for us. It was time to take more drastic action.

Premium Hitches

The ProPride 3P is a different kind of hitch system.

By this point, it was clear that a traditional weight distributing hitch with sway control would not meet our needs. We assumed that the length and heft of the trailer, paired with our short-wheelbase tow vehicle, required a premium option.

Designed by avid RV enthusiast and travel trailer salesman Jim Hensley, who perfected his ideas over a 40-year period before licensing the patent to a manufacturing company in 1994, the Hensley Arrow was the original sway-eliminating hitch. Rather than controlling trailer sway after it starts, the Hensley Arrow locks the trailer and tow vehicle together by projecting the pivot point forward, off the hitch ball and into the midsection of the tow vehicle. This stops the rotational movement that induces trailer sway.

Although the Hensley Arrow remains enormously popular today, we were equally intrigued by the ProPride 3P. A later design by Jim Hensley, the ProPride 3P is manufactured by the former Vice President of Hensley Mfg, Inc. The ProPride is based on the same concepts as the Hensley Arrow, but the design is slightly different.

Both hitches are similarly priced at around $2400, although Hensley sometimes has less-expensive remanufactured units available. With such an investment at stake, we went back and forth between the two hitches, gathering information and opinions online before making a final decision. Ultimately, we chose the ProPride due to personal preferences as well as the incredible accessibility and helpfulness of the company owner, Sean Woodruff. Nonetheless, we truly believe that the Hensley product is equally worthy.

Ordering a ProPride 3P

Neither the Hensley Arrow nor the ProPride 3P is sold through dealers. Both hitches are designed for self-installation, and are sold only through their respective manufacturers. When we made the decision to order the ProPride, we called Sean, who walked us through the process of placing our order on the ProPride company website. Besides the hitch kit, we ordered extensions for our trailer chains and 7-pin electrical cord. Although they may not be necessary for all trailer-tow vehicle combinations, the extensions are often required because the hitch adds an extra foot in length between the tow vehicle and the trailer.

At the time of our order, the manufacturing process was a bit backed up, so Sean advised us to allow three weeks. The website allowed us to monitor the status of our order, and Sean was always available by cell phone for more personalized information. As it turned out, he was actually able to ship out our hitch less than two weeks after we placed the order.

About the ProPride 3P

We don’t look like every other vehicle going down the road!

Because Dad has a very bad back and we do not carry much of a tool chest, we were reluctant to install the hitch ourselves, so we arranged for our selling dealer to perform the installation. When we arrived at the dealership on installation day, we were very glad that we had! The system is massive, weighing in at over 200 pounds altogether. Of course, it is shipped in sections and those who are comfortable putting together mechanical devices should have no real problems. For us, however, it was well worth the few hundred dollars charged by our dealer.

The major components of the ProPride 3P are the stinger, the hitch box, the yoke, the weight distribution bars and the weight-distribution jacks. I was extremely confused at first, as are most people who are new to this type of hitch, so let’s break it down a bit.

The stinger is the metal piece that fits into the hitch receiver on the tow vehicle. It looks similar to the draw bar on a traditional trailer hitch, only there is no ball at the end. Instead, the stinger slides into the center of the hitch box. The stinger is the only piece of the setup that is not permanently installed on the trailer’s A-frame. It is easy to remove when not in use, and is fully adjustable to fit a wide range of tow vehicle-trailer combinations.

The hitch box is the main central unit of the ProPride. The box has a ball that locks onto the trailer’s coupler, preventing any possibility for rotation. The stinger slides in and is locked in place with two latches. The entire system is secured at the hitch box.

The yoke is a metal frame that fits securely underneath the trailer’s A-frame. In tandem with the hitch box, it ensures that the trailer stays steady and sway-free.

The weight distribution bars are available in multiple sizes from 600 pounds to 1400 pounds, depending on the trailer’s tongue weight. However, we strongly suggest that you discuss your particular setup with Sean before ordering bars. Although our tongue weight is only around 800 pounds loaded, he recommended the 1400 pound bars for our setup. The weight distribution bars are permanently attached to the trailer’s A-frame, making it much easier to hitch and unhitch from the tow vehicle.

The weight distribution jacks control the adjustment of the weight distribution bars. Unlike traditional weight distribution and sway control systems, the ProPride 3P is infinitely adjustable, allowing us to dial in our preferred setting. A power drill makes raising and lowering the jacks easier, but a manual wrench is provided with the hitch.

Our Experience

The main components of the ProPride 3P are easy to see here.

It took our dealer the better part of an afternoon to install the hitch. Wonderfully detailed step-by-step instructions are included, and Sean is just a phone call away. We watched the installation process, and it looked relatively straightforward. A competent handyman with a tool chest and a strong back could easily install it in less than a day.

There is a slight learning curve to hitching up the trailer. The stinger-hitch box coupling is sort of like docking at the space station! But we got the hang of it fairly quickly, thanks to a range of YouTube videos that demonstrate the process step by step.

We could feel the difference in towing as soon as we hitched up. Where before, we couldn’t go much above 35 mph on a day with no wind, the ProPride allowed us to go 55-60 mph in moderately strong gusts. Although we could still feel the push of a passing semi-truck, the ProPride turned a previously terrifying situation into a gentle and easy to correct non-event.

Yet the ProPride seemed to unmask another problem, one we hadn’t noticed with the other hitches, while we were busy trying to stay on the road. Whenever we hit the brakes, the trailer lurched to the right side. A trip to Camping World revealed that the trailer brakes were stuck on that side, and that issue was corrected under our trailer warranty. Nonetheless, the trailer continued to pull to the right on stopping.

Trailer Alignment

After ruling out any problems with the tow vehicle alignment or the hitch, we had Camping World perform a laser alignment on the trailer, which revealed the true source of our troubles. Due to a manufacturing defect, our trailer is badly out of alignment! That issue caused the unstoppable sway with the other hitches, and was now causing the pull to the right.

We genuinely believe that the ProPride 3P saved our lives. Its ability to lock the trailer and the tow vehicle together compensated for the alignment issue, preventing sway from developing. Instead, it gave us a gentle hint that something was not right by allowing the pull to the right to occur during braking.

Our Impressions

The Internet is filled with loyal fans of both Hensley and ProPride who claim that their hitches saved their lives during emergency situations. Until we developed our own issue, however, I largely took such claims with a grain of salt. After all, how often are we in an emergency situation, right? But now I realize that emergencies can arise anywhere, at any time. You never know when it will be your turn for something weird to happen with your trailer.

Even in a day-to-day, non-emergency situation, I do believe that the ProPride (and probably the Hensley as well) provides a safer and more comfortable tow than a traditional hitch does. We had a traditional system on our previous trailer and it worked fine. I was rarely particularly scared. Yet I know that I would have been more confident overall with a premium hitch. Unexpected situations are a way of life on the road, and I try to minimize the impact that they will have on our lives.

Do you need a ProPride 3P? Not necessarily. If your tow vehicle and trailer are well-matched, a variety of mid-range hitches will likely meet your needs. If you have the extra funds, however, a ProPride hitch provides additional safety, comfort and peace of mind. As someone on the RV forums once said, “You have a $30,000 tow vehicle and a $25,000 trailer. Is $2,500 really too much to spend on holding them together?” Ultimately, that is a question that only you can answer for your family.

Related Articles:

RV Shopping: Weights and Measures
RV Shopping: Weight Distribution and Sway Control
RV Shopping: Getting the Best Deal
RV Shopping: Meeting Your Family’s Needs

We pay nothing extra for the spectacular views!

As full-time RVers, Dad and I are always looking for ways to minimize our costs while maximizing our enjoyment. We are members of a variety of camping organizations, but no single camping club has been as valuable to us as our membership in Thousand Trails. Although the RV community is sharply divided in its feelings about the program, it has literally saved us thousands of dollars in the three years that we have been members. But the various membership options and benefits have changed dramatically over the years, and deciphering exactly what you get can be confusing. Always run any contract by your attorney before making a financial commitment.

Zone Camping

Thousand Trails activity centers are warm and inviting.

The Zone Camping Pass is Thousand Trails’ current (as of 2012) entry-level membership program. The premise is much simpler than that of other membership options. The country is roughly divided into four zones, and you can select any number of zones to include in your membership. Each zone contains approximately 20 campgrounds, for a total of 81 across the country.

As of 2012, the one-time enrollment fee is waived for the first zone. Additional zones are $795 each, with a discounted price of $1,995 total if you purchase all four zones. The annual fee is $499, no matter how many zones your membership includes. You are committed only for the first year, although you must express your desire to cancel in writing 30 days before your membership auto-renews. Passes are valid for the passholder, his or her spouse, and dependent children aged 23 or below who live at home or are in school away from home. Financing is available.

Thousand Trails Orlando is in the heart of the Sunshine State.

The annual fee includes 30 nights of camping at no charge. Additional nights are billed at $3 per night. You are entitled to use any of the campgrounds in your membership as much as you want, but the maximum stay at any one time is 14 nights. If you stay for more than four nights, you must spend seven nights entirely out of the system before entering the same or a different membership park. Each site can hold up to 10 people in one camping vehicle plus two tents or three tents with no camping vehicle. You may also park two non-camping vehicles on your site.

The Tent Camping Zone Pass works similarly, but is valid for a maximum stay of seven nights. As with the RV Zone Pass, if you stay for more than four nights, you must leave the system entirely for seven nights. You will be charged $3 per night after the first 30 nights of camping. Each tent site can hold six people and two tents, along with two non-camping vehicles. The annual fee is $249 as of 2012, while the enrollment fee is subject to change. No financing is available for the Tent Camping Pass. The pass includes access to tent sites at 14 Encore parks that are not part of the Thousand Trails system.

Traditional Memberships

The parks have very nice and well-equipped camp stores.

Dad and I purchased our Thousand Trails membership before the current Zone Camping Pass program. We spent a free weekend at the campground in Clermont, Florida, just outside of Orlando and toured the park with a sales representative before making our purchase. We financed that membership with monthly payments of around $100. Dues, which we also paid monthly, were approximately $40 per month. Under that membership, we were entitled to use any park in the Thousand Trails system as well as parks in the Leisure Time and NACO systems. We could stay 14 nights at a time, and had to leave the system for seven nights between stays. We were not charged any additional fees no matter how many nights we used in a year.

Thousand Trails parks offer mini-golf, volleyball courts, puzzle rooms, swimming pools and a wide range of scheduled activities, all at no additional fee.

The program worked very well for us, but when we were offered the chance to upgrade our membership, we jumped at it. We rolled our existing loan into the new loan, effectively raising our monthly payment by around $50 per month. Our dues payment remained roughly the same. Under the new contract, we now have access to parks operated by Outdoor World and Mid-Atlantic Resorts as well as our previously available parks. We can stay in any one park for 21 days at a time, and then go directly to another park with no time out of the system. We are only required to remain out of the park we just left for seven days. As full-time RVers, it is nice to be able go directly from park to park. Although we also enjoy visiting non-Thousand Trails properties, we know many full-timers who simply live within the Thousand Trails system. We also have some side benefits, such as discounts on cabin rentals at the parks. We also enjoy frequent discounted camping at Encore parks.

Upgrading Your Existing Membership

At Thousand Trails Medina Lake, the tame deer flocked to the campsites.

Whether you currently have a Zone Camping Pass or another type of membership, upgrades are always available. Encore, the parent company of Thousand Trails, works hard to respond to member requests and suggestions. Even though we are Elite, which is supposed to be the top level of membership, we recently received an invitation to a meeting to discuss yet another upgrade.

Resale Memberships

Thousand Trails memberships are easy to find on the resale market. Most sellers provide their membership number in their ads, allowing potential buyers to call Thousand Trails Member Services and check the validity of the offered membership. A resale membership often represents an incredible savings, but because so many different membership types have been offered over the years, make sure you do your due diligence. Carefully research the different options to learn exactly what each membership includes. Thousand Trails charges a $750 transfer fee, so be sure to include that fee in your calculations when comparing different memberships. Although this can be a wonderful way to pick up a premium membership that is no longer available, this is not the time for an impulse buy.

Related Articles:

Introduction to Membership Camping
Comparing Membership Camping Alternatives
RVing with Kids

The new RV is great, but it’s needed quite a bit of work lately!

When they find out that we RV travel full-time, people generally ask Dad and me two basic questions: How do you decide where to go, and what do you do when you get there? Our standard response to the first is, we make it up as we go along. For the second, we can have fun in a parking lot, literally. We proved that to ourselves when the power was out a few weeks ago. We went to a hotel for a few days until we could have it repaired, but found ourselves climbing the walls. So we went back to the RV, pulled out a board game, sat in the car with the air conditioner running and played the game. It was a nice change of pace.

It’s a good thing that we honed those skills early on in our RV adventures, because we have found ourselves stuck in some odd locations over the years. Most recently, it was Lake Wales, Florida. Dad and I both grew up in Lakeland, less than an hour from Lake Wales, and had both been there before. It’s a very quaint and picturesque small town, but not exactly known for being a “happening” place to be. It is, however, the location of the dealership where we purchased our new RV.

Downtown Lake Wales is quaint and friendly

The new RV is a good bit longer and heavier than the old one, so we needed to upgrade the weight distributing hitch and sway control combination. We were in Clermont, Florida, at the time, so we had to stop in Kissimmee to do the upgrade. After two adjustments we still weren’t happy with the ride, so we headed down to Lake Wales to have our dealer adjust it. The plan was to spend one or two nights in Lake Wales having the adjustments done and weighing the rig a few times at the nearby CAT scale to get everything distributed properly (for more info read about RV weights and measurements). As it turns out, however, that hitch system was not right for us at all. We ended up in Lake Wales for a month waiting for delivery of a new premium ProPride hitch.

The unexpected delay, however, gave us the opportunity to explore Lake Wales and the surrounding area. Among other attractions, we saw Spook Hill, which I thoroughly enjoyed as a child.

Spook Hill

Spook Hill is a true vintage roadside attraction. Gravity hills, where cars seemingly roll uphill, became hot tourist spots with the development of the automobile and were extraordinarily popular during the car culture days of the 1950s and 1960s. Many such hills exist around the country, each with its own local legends and lore.

Spook Hill is kitschy but tons of fun!

Located just outside downtown Lake Wales and a short drive from the famous Bok Tower, Spook Hill is a fun, if silly, look at pre-Walt Disney World Central Florida. The spot is a bit tricky to find, so put Spook Hill Elementary School (yes, the school’s mascot is a ghost!) into your GPS and then follow the signs from there.

I loved Spook Hill as a kid and I still enjoy it today, despite the city’s brilliant idea to build a housing complex on one side and an elementary school on the other a few years ago. Dad tells me that it was even better when he was a kid, when there was nothing around but citrus groves and a lake. The concept is simple: Stop and read the roadside sign that tells the legend, and then pull forward to the painted white line. Put your car in neutral and take your foot off the brake. Your car will apparently roll backward uphill.

According to the legend, the spot was once the site of a great battle between a Seminole chief and a man-eating alligator. The chief called upon the Great Spirit to help him defeat the gator, which was threatening the tribe. The battle turned the lake to blood and created a smaller secondary lake, but the chief was victorious. When he died years later, he was buried on the shores of the lake. Over the years, circuit riders and citrus growers noticed that their horses labored when going downhill. Eventually a fisherman and merchant parked his truck on the hill but was terrified to find it rolling backwards and uphill on its own. The legend spread rapidly and soon locals and visitors alike began lining up to experience the phenomenon for themselves. You can find a more detailed account of the legend at http://www.spookhill.info/legend.htm.

Is it an optical illusion? Did the Seminole chief and the man-eating gator really exist? Decide for yourself at this retro attraction.

Tips for Parents

Just pull up to the white line and put your vehicle in neutral, then hang on tight!

Spook Hill is a throwback to Old Florida. Don’t expect high-tech thrills or virtual reality enhancement. The attraction is entirely natural except for the billboard and painted white line. Many people claim that the effect looks best at night, when the school and houses are not quite as visually distracting.

Pay attention to your surroundings. Although locals are familiar with the spot and are generally careful to watch for visitors, the road is still a public thoroughfare and your car will not stop rolling on its own until after you round a slight curve. Be prepared to steer and to apply the brakes if necessary.

Spook Hill is probably not worth a long drive on its own. But tacked onto a trip to Bok Tower or the Florida’s Natural Grove House, the hill is definitely worth a stop.

Weights are boring but critical for safety and comfort

So you have decided to take the plunge, joining millions of others in the RV lifestyle. While it is important to find just the right floor plan to meet your family’s needs, don’t fall in love too fast. The layout and design features of an RV affect your family’s happiness, but the weights and measures affect your family’s safety. Although rules also apply to truck campers and motor homes, towable RVs such as travel trailers and fifth wheels require special considerations. Here I will focus on travel trailers, as those are the RVs with which I have personal experience. Always check with the manufacturers of both your tow vehicle and the trailer for specific advice on your particular combination.

Learning the Acronyms

Although it is not nearly as much fun as looking at photos and planning your trip, everyone in the market for a towable RV needs to learn a variety of acronyms. Understanding how these factors work together is a critical early step in RV shopping. For the tow vehicle, these numbers are on a sticker in the driver’s side door frame. For the RV, these numbers are on a sticker somewhere on the RV. In older models, the sticker was generally inside a kitchen cabinet, but in newer models it is typically on the outside near an entry door or storage compartment. Although general numbers are usually available online, the number may vary between individual units due to factory-installed options. Read the sticker on every single vehicle and RV you are considering.

You need to know the capabilities of both the tow vehicle and the trailer

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR): Both the RV and the tow vehicle have these. The GVWR refers to the maximum fully-loaded weight that the RV or vehicle can safely hold. This includes people, animals, furniture, accessories, water, propane, and even clothing. If it is inside the walls or attached to the frame, it counts toward the GVWR.

Maximum Trailer Capacity (MTC): This is the maximum trailer weight that your tow vehicle can handle. In theory, the GVWR of the trailer should not exceed the MTC of the tow vehicle. However, as long as the unloaded weight of the trailer is significantly below the MTC, you can keep the trailer within a safe range by carefully managing its payload.

Unloaded Weight (UW), Dry Weight (DW), Curb Weight (CW), or Base Weight (BW): This rating goes by a number of different names, but like the GVWR, both the RV and the tow vehicle have these. This is the weight of the RV or the tow vehicle without anything in it. But this can be confusing, because different manufacturers calculate this differently. Many, but not all, vehicle manufacturers include the weight of a 150-pound driver in this weight. Some also include a full tank of gas. Some RV manufacturers list the weight of the RV before any options are added (such as an awning or gas grill), while others list the weight of the fully-equipped RV when it leaves the factory. Since this term may mean many different things, the best way to get an accurate weight is to weigh the vehicle or RV yourself. We will discuss how to do this a little later.

Payload Capacity (PC) or Cargo Capacity (CC): This is how much weight you can safely put into the RV or tow vehicle, including options, accessories, people, pets, and personal items. The CC is equal to the GVWR minus the unloaded weight of that vehicle or RV. If the payload capacity is clearly marked on the vehicle or RV, then you can skip the step of getting your own unloaded weight. The UW will equal the GVWR minus the CC.

Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR): This number applies only to the tow vehicle. It is the maximum total weight of the tow vehicle plus the RV, including all of the people and items you add.

Rear Axle Weight Rating (RAWR): This number is only found on the tow vehicle. The RAWR is the maximum amount of weight that the rear axle of the vehicle can safely support. When towing, this number includes the tongue weight of the RV. It also includes the normal, unloaded weight on the rear axle as well as any payload that you carry inside the rear of the vehicle.

Tongue Weight (TW): This number applies only to the RV. This is the amount of weight that the RV places on the rear axle of the tow vehicle. For stability and safe towing, the TW of a travel trailer must be between 10 and 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight. Different specs apply to fifth wheels. The dry tongue weight quoted by manufacturers is often misleading, as the TW goes up as the trailer is loaded for camping.

Hitch Receiver Weight (HRW): This number applies only to the tow vehicle. It is the amount of tongue weight that the tow vehicle can safely handle. Note that this number may be lower than the available payload capacity on your RAWR.

How the Weights Work Together

When taken together, the above ratings paint a clear picture of whether your chosen RV and tow vehicle are a safe and effective combination. Here are some real-world numbers to help demonstrate how this all works.

Dad and I drive a 2007 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer with a Heavy Duty Tow Package. According to a combination of our vehicle sticker and the Ford Towing Guide, these are the numbers for our Expedition:

Armed with those figures for our Expedition, let’s look at the numbers for our travel trailer, a 2012 Forest River Flagstaff 27RLSS:

We know right off the bat that the TW of the Flagstaff is a bit misleading. When towing a travel trailer, for stability reasons it is critical that the TW be 10 to 15 percent of the total trailer weight. Therefore, with the trailer empty, the TW should be at least 614 pounds. Fully loaded, it should be at least 743 pounds. We can accomplish this by loading our heavier items toward the front of the travel trailer, but it is something we need to look at when comparing the capabilities of the Expedition to the needs of the trailer.

Your tow vehicle and trailer must work together

Now we can do some basic calculations without ever taking either the vehicle or the RV to a scale. The GVWR of the trailer is 7436, which is a good bit less than the MTC of the Expedition, at 9200. So the trailer weight itself is fine. The GVWR of the Expedition plus the GVWR of the trailer is 14836, below the 15,000 pound GCWR of the Expedition. So even if we load both vehicles to their maximum, we are still within specs. The minimum safe TW for the GVWR of the trailer is 743, below the 920 pound HRW of the Expedition. Again, the numbers work out. The maximum safe TW for the GVWR of the trailer is 1115. That’s higher than the HRW of the Expedition. But that’s okay. The dry weight of the tongue is only 474, so it will be easy to load in such a way that we do not exceed the HRW. If the dry weight of the tongue was higher, it might be tough to keep the TW down once the trailer was loaded.

GVWR (trailer) < MTC (Expedition)
GVWR (Expedition) + GVWR (trailer) < GCWR (Expedition)
GVWR (trailer) x .1 = minimum safe TW (trailer)
GVWR (trailer) x .15 = maximum safe TW (trailer)
Minimum TW (trailer) < HRW (Expedition)

Next we have to go to the scales to weigh the Expedition. We know that the RAWR of the Expedition is 4250—but how much weight is it already carrying? Can we put 743 or more pounds of tongue weight on it without causing damage? Aligning the Expedition on a CAT scale so that each axle is on a separate scale gives us the answer. We’re currently carrying 3240 pounds on that rear axle.

RAWR (Expedition) – Actual Weight on rear axle = remaining CC on rear axle
4250 – 3240 = 1010

We have over 1000 pounds to play with—our max HRW is only 920, so no way is the tongue weight on that trailer going that high! We also learn that the current loaded weight of our Expedition is right at 6400 pounds.

GVWR (Expedition) – Actual Weight (Expedition) = remaining CC of Expedition
7400 – 6400 = 1000

Again, our HRW is 920, lower than the available CC of 1000 pounds. So the additional tongue weight will not exceed the Expedition’s GVWR. The travel trailer appears to be well within our vehicle’s capacities.

Trailer Weights

Our trailer can handle the payload we need without overstressing our tow vehicle

Now we need to look at the trailer itself. Dad and I are full-timers, meaning that we live in the RV year-round. According to experts that we have heard at various seminars, two people who full-time generally carry around 1500 pounds of “stuff.” That’s everything from dishes to electronics, and clothing to furniture. If you do a lot of dry camping, in which you do not have utility hookups, you will also carry water in the fresh water tank. A full load of water adds approximately 250 pounds, depending on the size of your tank! Since we rarely camp without hookups, we only carry around 1/3 of a tank, or about 80 pounds of water.

We were able to eliminate quite a few RVs from our list based on weights alone. Some of the travel trailers that we looked at had dry tongue weights of well over 900 pounds! Since we can only handle a maximum of 920 pounds fully loaded, those RVs did not meet our needs. Likewise, many of the travel trailers had cargo capacities of only a few hundred pounds. There is no way that we could have carried everything needed for full-timing in that little capacity.

The Flagstaff that we finally selected is a bit light on cargo capacity, at just 1293 pounds. Our previous travel trailer could handle 2200 pounds. But this was an area in which we were willing to compromise, since the trailer is otherwise perfect for our needs. We just have to be extremely careful when loading it. But since our Expedition weights are not nearly at capacity, we carry some items that we use less frequently inside the vehicle instead of the RV.

Using the CAT Scales

Weighing the combination, loaded for camping, is the only way to know for sure

Except for the current weights on the Expedition, we were able to find all the numbers we needed without visiting a scale. Once you purchase your travel trailer, however, it is imperative that you make the trip. CAT scales are available at truck stops, where semi-truck drivers use them to ensure that their trucks are within legal weight limits. Open to everyone, these scales are the best place outside of specialized RV weighing facilities (offered at some rallies) to determine the actual weight of your tow combination.

Load up the tow vehicle and RV as you would for camping. If you plan to dry camp, fill your fresh water tank. Fill the propane tanks and your vehicle’s gas tank. Add the clothing, shoes, toys, games, books and other supplies you plan to carry. Don’t forget the firewood, grill, bicycles and anything else that you would take on your ideal camping trip. Hitch up and drive (carefully) to the nearest CAT scale.

CAT scales actually consist of multiple smaller scales that are divided by painted yellow lines. Position your combination so that each axle is on a separate scale. The front axle of your vehicle should be on the furthest forward scale, the rear axle on the next scale and all the trailer axles on the third. For purposes of calculations, all the trailer axles will be considered together as one unit. Push the call button and tell the attendant that you need to weigh your combination. When you get the go-ahead, pull off the scales and park in a safe location, then go inside to get the results. As of 2012, an initial weigh costs $9.50, while reweighs within 24 hours cost $1 each.

Tow the trailer to wherever you are storing it and unhitch. Do not unload anything in your tow vehicle. Immediately return to the CAT scale in your tow vehicle. If it is a long distance, replace whatever gas you used. Now position the vehicle on the CAT scale as you did before, ensuring that each axle is on a separate scale. Push the button and give the attendant the previous weigh number from your receipt. Park safely and go inside to get your new receipt.

With the two receipts in hand, you have all the information you need to determine your actual weights and make adjustments as needed. The bottom number on your first receipt is the Gross Weight of the tow vehicle and the RV. Subtract the Gross Weight on the second receipt (just the tow vehicle) from the Gross Weight of the combination. Next, subtract the Trailer Axle Weight on the first receipt to get the Actual Tongue Weight of the trailer.

Gross Weight (with trailer) – Gross Weight (without trailer) – Trailer Axle Weight = Actual TW

Add the Actual TW of the trailer to the Trailer Axle Weight on the first receipt (combination) to get the total weight of the trailer. Multiply the total weight of the trailer by 0.1 to determine the minimum safe TW, and by 0.15 to determine the maximum safe TW. Compare those numbers to your calculated actual tongue weight.

(Actual TW + Trailer Axle Weight) x 0.1 = minimum safe TW

(Actual TW + Trailer Axle Weight) x 0.15 = maximum safe TW

Confused yet? Here are some examples from our combination, taken at a CAT scale a month ago. We had the dealer transfer our weight distribution sway control hitch system from our old trailer to the new one.

Tow Vehicle and Trailer Combination

Tow Vehicle Only

The Steer Axle is the front axle, and the Drive Axle is the rear axle. The Trailer Axle is the weight carried on the axle of the trailer, but does not include the tongue.

The gross weight of the combination is 13720 (first receipt), while the gross weight of the tow vehicle without the trailer attached is 6260 (second receipt). The trailer axle weight (first receipt) is 6760. So using the formula, we can calculate the actual tongue weight.

Gross Weight (with trailer) – Gross Weight (without trailer) – Trailer Axle Weight = Actual TW
13720 – 6260 – 6760 = 700

The trailer axle weighs 6760 and the tongue weighs 700. That means our total trailer weight is 7460 pounds.

Trailer Axle Weight + Actual Tongue Weight = Total Trailer Weight

6760 + 700 = 7460

Remember that the Tongue Weight should be 10 to 15 percent of the total trailer weight.

(Actual TW + Trailer Axle Weight) x 0.1 = minimum safe TW

(Actual TW + Trailer Axle Weight) x 0.15 = maximum safe TW

That means our TW should be between 746 and 1119. The maximum TW that our Expedition can handle is 920, or roughly twelve percent. But our concern is that our TW is too low. Ten percent of 7460 is 746, so our tongue weight is 46 pounds lighter than it should be. On our next trip, we’ll need to shift some weight forward onto the tongue. Thankfully, our RAWR is 4250, so we can handle another 90 pounds on the rear axle.

RAWR (Expedition) – Actual Weight on rear axle (first receipt) = remaining CC on rear axle
4250 – 4160 = 90

We can easily shift 50 pounds or so forward without damaging the axle. If the tongue weight was too high, we could reverse the process and shift weight backwards onto the trailer axle.

But there’s another problem. The GVWR of the trailer is 7436 and we’re carrying 7460. That means we are carrying 24 pounds too much inside the trailer. We need to move some items into the vehicle, since we’re not exceeding its capacity.

So we could simply move 24 pounds from the trailer into the Expedition and 50 pounds from the back of the trailer to the front of the trailer. We have 90 pounds available on our rear axle, and 50 plus 24 is 74, so we’re still (barely) within specs. But what if we want to buy more groceries? What if we pick up a few souvenirs? Won’t we go overweight again?

There is a second possibility. The tongue weight needs to be at least ten percent of the loaded trailer weight. Therefore, if the loaded trailer weight goes down, so does the necessary tongue weight. What if we move a bunch of weight out of the trailer?

Looking at the numbers again, we can do another equation. By adding together the front axle and rear axle numbers on the receipt that includes the trailer, we can determine how much the tow vehicle weighs including the weight of the trailer tongue.

Steer Axle (first receipt) + Drive Axle (first receipt) = Gross Weight Tow Vehicle with Tongue
2800 + 4160 = 6960

The GVWR of the Expedition is 7400. That means we can still add 440 pounds of cargo to the Expedition, as long as we don’t add it all to the rear axle. Since Dad and I travel alone, we can fold down our second row seats and put cargo there.

If we move 200 pounds of weight from the trailer axle to the Expedition, then the total trailer weight goes down to 7260. Now we only need to shift 26 pounds forward onto the trailer tongue to get to ten percent. If we move 300 pounds, then the trailer weight goes down to 7160. We just have to be careful to balance the load in the Expedition so that more of the weight goes onto the front axle than the rear axle. But how do we balance everything? The weight distributing hitch is a valuable tool that no RVer with a heavy trailer should ever be without.

Related Articles:

RV Shopping: Weight Distribution and Sway Control

Our new Flagstaff 27RLSS is long and heavy

When purchasing a new travel trailer, it is very important to familiarize yourself with several numbers that, when taken together, demonstrate the ability of your tow vehicle to safely pull your chosen trailer. However, even crunching the numbers is not always enough. When towing a heavy or long travel trailer, you must also consider weight distribution and sway control. These factors are critical to a safe towing experience and the best choice of equipment varies for each combination of tow vehicle and trailer. Below is a general guide based on my own experiences, but it is always best to speak with the manufacturers of both the tow vehicle and the trailer to ensure that you have the best possible setup for your individual needs.

Weight Distribution

Trailer hitches come in two basic forms—weight-carrying and weight-distributing. As the name implies, a weight-carrying hitch sits on the bumper of the tow vehicle and takes the full weight of the trailer tongue. These hitches are common and relatively safe for very lightweight trailers. As the weight of the trailer rises, however, weight-distributing hitches become critical.

This is an example of a combined weight-distribution and sway control system

A weight-distributing hitch attaches to a receiver mounted on the tow vehicle’s frame beneath the rear bumper. Vehicles that are designed for heavy trailer towing have both a hitch receiver and an electrical connection to plug in the trailer. To safely tow a trailer that weighs over 5000 or 6000 pounds (depending on the tow vehicle manufacturer), the tow vehicle needs to be specially equipped. Among other upgrades, a properly equipped tow vehicle is outfitted with a heavy duty hitch receiver and a 7-pin electrical connector. On some vehicles, these items are standard equipment. On others, they are part of an optional package. For some older vehicles, it may be necessary to add each item individually to the vehicle. Always check with your vehicle manufacturer to ensure that you have all necessary equipment to safely tow a heavier trailer. Also check the manufacturer’s towing guide to learn the weight limitations of your tow vehicle.

As an example, Dad and I drive a 2007 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer with the optional Heavy Duty Towing Package. This package includes an auxiliary oil cooler, an upgraded radiator, heavy duty flashers, a trailer brake wiring kit, a hitch receiver, and a 7-pin wiring harness and connector. According to the Ford Towing Guide, we can tow a 6000 pound trailer with a 600 pound tongue on a weight-carrying hitch, or a 9200 pound trailer with a 920 pound tongue on a weight-distributing hitch. If we had a 2012 Ford F-350 DRW truck, we could tow a 15000 pound trailer with a 1500 pound tongue on a weight-distributing hitch.

What a Weight-Distributing Hitch Does

As the name implies, a weight-distributing hitch distributes the weight of the trailer tongue among the three axles—the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle, and the axle of the trailer. The weight distribution system that you choose should be able to handle more than the tongue weight of the trailer, but not too much more. If you choose a 1500 pound system for a 400 pound tongue, the weight distribution will be too great. You need to have 10 to 15 percent of the total trailer weight on the hitch. Any less and you may experience dangerous and unpredictable sway. Likewise, a system rated for 1000 pounds is virtually useless for a 1500 pound hitch. The distribution will be improper. Theoretically your tongue weight might still end up in the 10 to 15 percent range, but the weight distribution system will not perform as predicted.

Sway Control

Integrated sway control works with the heavy weight distribution bars

Although it is possible to install either portion separately, sway control systems typically go hand in hand with weight-distributing hitches. In an ideal world, a properly loaded and balanced tow vehicle and travel trailer combination will not sway. In reality, however, it only takes a sudden gust of wind, being passed by a semi-truck (the infamous “truck suck”) or even a moment’s inattention to the road for a dangerous sway condition to develop. When my parents first bought the old RV in 2004, the dealer told them that he had plenty of customers turn down sway control, drive a few miles down the highway, then turn around and come back for a sway system.

The problems of sway are exacerbated by not only loading and balance, which are reasonably easy to correct, but by the length and weight of your travel trailer compared to the length and weight of your tow vehicle. In general, a short wheelbase vehicle such as an SUV or a short bed truck is more prone to trailer sway, particularly as the length of the trailer approaches or exceeds 30 feet. A trailer that weighs as much as or more than the tow vehicle is also more likely to sway.

Keep in mind that trailer lengths can be misleading. In older trailers, the model number typically gave the overall exterior length of the trailer. Our 2004 Road Runner XL 27RB was 27 feet long from tip to tail. Today, however, the model number generally refers to the interior length. Our new 2012 Forest River Flagstaff 27RLSS is 27 feet long in the living area, but 31 feet long overall—four feet longer than the old trailer. The exterior length is usually listed on a chart in the manufacturer’s brochure and website, but be sure to ask if it is not readily apparent. We looked at a few RVs that were 30 feet long inside, but more than 36 feet overall!

Sway control is available in three main types—friction, adaptive, and predictive. All three types work well under the conditions for which they were designed. Each RVer has his or her favorite type of sway control system and one or two that are absolutely hated. The problem is that one person’s hated sway control is the next person’s favorite. As a very general rule of thumb, friction systems work extremely well on shorter and lighter trailers, while expensive predictive systems are considered the gold standard for heavy, long trailers towed by vehicles with a short wheelbase. That said, however, many people successfully tow long trailers with friction systems and many prefer an adaptive or predictive system for even a relatively short trailer.

Before choosing your weight-distributing hitch or sway control system, do a great deal of research. Visit the websites of various hitch and sway control manufacturers and learn how that particular system works. Visit Internet forums for RVers, particularly those frequented by full-timers. Ask detailed questions about your particular combination, and take all opinions to heart.

Ultimately, the only way to decide which system is right for you is through real world experience. Though it can be an expensive lesson if your first choice doesn’t work out, it is important to thoroughly test out your new system. Hitch up and drive (carefully) in a variety of road and weather conditions. Stop and start at low speeds, try out city traffic and drive on the highway. If your trailer sways, begin by readjusting the sway control system or pay an expert to adjust it for you. As long as all of your weights are balanced, most minor sway problems can be corrected by playing with the settings on the sway control system. But if you are unable to get sway under control, consider purchasing a different system. Compared to the price of your tow vehicle and your travel trailer, not to mention the fact that the lives of your family and others on the road are on the line, even buying two or three systems is a relatively small investment.

Brake Controllers

The brake controller controls the trailer brakes. Pretty important equipment!

As mentioned above, my parents’ RV dealer made a huge deal out of the need for a sway control system. And he was absolutely right. With the sway control system he sold them, we were later able to trade the long wheelbase van in on a short wheelbase Expedition, and successfully towed the 27 foot travel trailer all through the windy American Southwest. We are now looking to upgrade our system, as the new 31 foot trailer is slightly too sway-prone for the old system.

What that dealer never mentioned to my parents, however, is a brake controller! Without a brake controller, the trailer brakes will not activate, forcing the tow vehicle to stop the entire combination. Brake controllers are legally required in all states for trailers over a certain weight, though the exact weight varies from state to state. When we were shopping for our new travel trailer, however, all of the dealers we talked to were in agreement that our old trailer, which weighed in at just over 6000 pounds fully loaded, definitely needed a brake controller. We were fortunate indeed that we were able to successfully tow through the mountains, considering our trailer brakes were never engaged! At nearly 7500 pounds fully loaded, our new travel trailer certainly needs its brakes.

A brake controller activates the trailer brakes when the vehicle brakes are applied. The brake controller itself is a small box mounted within easy reach of the tow vehicle driver. There are two types of brake controller—proportional and time-delayed. Time-delayed controllers always provide maximum braking power at a preset interval after initial vehicle braking. Proportional controllers apply the trailer brakes in tandem with the braking power applied on the vehicle brakes. Both types of system have their fans, and in general, both work well. Base your decision on the recommendation of your dealer in tandem with detailed Internet research.

A Word on Dealers

RV Dealers don't always know which system is best for you

We spoke to dozens of RV dealers during an intense two months of shopping for our new travel trailer. We found that for the most part, dealers care about helping customers select the RV that is truly right for them. As in any industry, though, we found extremely good dealers who go above and beyond the call of duty, and extremely bad dealers who care only about making a sale. We also found quite a few well-meaning dealers who were not well versed in the particulars of towing with an SUV.

Ultimately, you have the responsibility for the safety of yourself, your family and other drivers with whom you share the road. It is up to you to learn and understand the capabilities and limitations of your tow vehicle. Some dealers will say, “Your vehicle will tow anything on the lot!” Others prefer, “Don’t worry that the hitch weight is over your specifications. A weight-distributing hitch will take care of that.” These and similar statements are not necessarily red flags, but they are yellow warning flags. Expect dealers with this mindset to be either uninformed or purposely misleading. That was the point at which Dad and I started tuning out the dealer’s “helpful advice” altogether.

Even when interacting with helpful and well-informed dealers, we chose to make every calculation ourselves, just to be on the safe side. Every time we walked through an RV, we carried a tape measure and I made detailed notes on my smart phone. We searched the manufacturer websites and talked to others who owned the same model. When a specific question arose, Dad actually called the manufacturer and talked to the lead design engineer on that model (the one we ended up purchasing, as it turns out).

Though it took a long time and quite a few near-misses, we ended up buying from a wonderful dealership that we feel we can truly trust. Eagle Ridge RV in Lake Wales, Florida is a small dealership with only a handful of employees and a relatively small number of units, enabling them to provide us with nearly unparalleled service and advice. We are extremely happy with both our RV and our dealer. Take your time, refuse to yield to high-pressure tactics, and pursue any questions or concerns until you have a definitive and absolutely correct answer. Your family’s safety and happiness are well worth the effort.

Negotiating an RV purchase can be intimidating

So you are in the market for a new RV. After a tedious search, you finally found the RV of your dreams. The floor plan and design scheme work wonderfully for your family. If it is a towable, you have performed seemingly endless calculations to ensure that you are within all weight specifications. You have picked out a weight-distributing hitch and sway control system. You’re ready to roll. Now just one hurdle stands between you and a lifetime of vacation memories—the negotiation process. No matter how many cars you may have purchased in your life, buying an RV is an entirely different ballgame.

Dad and I were in the market for nearly two months at the beginning of 2012. We negotiated hard on numerous models, only to have a deal breaker pop up at the last minute. Along the way, we learned some tips and tricks for getting the best deal.

RV Shows

An RV show can be a fantastic place to make a purchase, but only if you have done your homework in advance. RV dealers are generally hungry to make a sale, and may be willing to throw in extra dealer options or other incentives. Numerous financing companies are on site, luring in customers with terrific offers. Manufacturer reps are often available to answer technical questions for which the dealer may not have expertise.

RV shows are noisy, crowded and exciting

However, trying to make a purchase at an RV show can be a nightmare if you do not already know what you want. The larger shows feature literally hundreds of models in all sizes, floor plans and design schemes. Even if you have already narrowed your search to a specific type (travel trailer, fifth wheel, motorhome) the sheer number of options is frankly exhausting. The RVs are crowded into a massive outdoor space such as a fairground, thousands of shoppers are traipsing in and out, and both dealers and manufacturer reps are often overwhelmed. Invariably, the two or three models that you like the best are on opposite sides of the fairground, requiring a long trek back and forth to make comparisons.

If you know what you want, buy early or buy late. The RV shows typically start on a Wednesday or Thursday and last through the weekend. The smaller weekday crowds give early birds the best shot at negotiating with a dealer who really has time and energy to sit down and have a conversation. Of course, RVs sell throughout the show, so shopping early also ensures that you have first pick.

The last day of the show is often the best time to get a great deal. Faced with moving inventory back to their lot, which may be a few hours’ drive away, many dealers are ready to negotiate hard. Markdown signs are a common sight in RV windows, particularly in the last hours of the show. As a side benefit, you may also be able to pick up common RV items such as a sewer hose or campground directory at a reduced price from a vendor who is ready to go home. However, most dealers are understandably exhausted by the end of a show. Many RVs are already sold, and the dealer may be less inclined to extend a special “show price” on a new unit that has to be ordered.

In addition, show prices are not always the best prices. Many dealers post the MSRP in the RV windows alongside that dealership’s show price, to demonstrate just how great a deal you are getting. Of course, just like cars, the reality is that no one ever actually pays the MSRP. Sometimes the same dealer is offering the same price on their lot, meaning that you could go in three weeks later and get the exact same deal without the stress of the show. Additionally, not all dealers go to the shows. If two dealers in the area sell the same model, many shows allow only one to participate. The other might have a “show weekend” sale on their lot with prices that undercut the show dealer by as much as a few thousand dollars.

What if I Don’t Know What I Want?

RV shows offer a mind-boggling number of choices

Does this mean that you should not shop for an RV at a show? Not at all, but it does mean that you should go into a show with your eyes wide open. Dad and I find that it works best to treat the show as an exploratory trip. Where else are you going to find hundreds of different models all in the same place? Plan to visit at least three times. The first day, simply shop to see what is out there. Take a camera and take detailed photos of any model that really catches your eye. Grab a brochure on that particular model, and take copious notes on what you like and don’t like. Also note the show price.

That night, take the time to go through your brochures, photos and notes. Go through your weight capacities carefully, checking them against the listed brochure weights. Compare the photos and notes to your overall wish list. Go online and research the specific models, paying especially close attention to reviews and comments by people who already own that RV.

On your second visit to the RV show, walk back through the units you are still considering. Compare the brochure weights to the actual “as equipped” weights found on a yellow sticker on the outside of the RV. Talk to the dealer or manufacturer rep about any customizations you would want. Inspect the quality of workmanship—does anything look cheap or shoddy? Do cabinets and drawers open and close easily? Lift up the bed to access the under-bed storage, open the hide-a-bed, stand in the shower, and even sit on the toilet. Does the RV feel functional? Is anything difficult to use?

Dad and I were strongly considering one unit, until we tried to remove the cover from the propane tanks. The clearance was too tight, and we both ended up scratched and bleeding! The manufacturer rep explained in a low tone that the particular unit we were looking at was a prototype, and the design had changed to provide another 2 inches of clearance. We could order the same RV at the show price from the factory, but it would have the additional clearance. We ended up not purchasing that one for other reasons, but we never would have known if we hadn’t tried everything that day.

Ask the dealer to bring the slide-outs in on any unit you are seriously considering. Although it may be rare, virtually every RVer eventually runs into an overnight situation in which it is impossible to put out the slides. Many of today’s RVs are designed with multiple slide-outs to create more living space, but they may be impossible to use with the slide-outs in. Dad and I fell madly in love with an RV that we found on the first day of the Tampa show, and actually let the dealer arrange financing. When we came back to find out we were approved, but before we signed anything, it occurred to us to bring the slide-outs in. Good thing we checked, because the entire unit mashed together tightly! We couldn’t access the bathroom, the refrigerator, or the area in which I would sleep at all. Needless to say, we walked away.

Before your third visit, comparison shop prices on your two or three top choices. RVTrader.com allows you to search in your local area or nationwide. If the dealer’s show prices are competitive, you may be able to make a great deal. On that third visit, do a final detailed walkthrough of your top choices. Then negotiate hard as you would with any dealership. But if you are not absolutely, 100 percent convinced that one of the show models is the best choice for your family, be prepared to leave the show and continue looking elsewhere. The knowledge gained at the show is invaluable no matter where you make your final purchase.

Working Multiple Dealers

Don't be afraid to walk away and negotiate by phone from a neutral location

Dad has one key catchphrase that he pulls out whenever he’s seriously in the market for a major purchase. “XXX dealership sold me a car, but I bought it from YYY dealership.” Here’s the story. A long time ago, Dad was in the market for a new car. He shopped around and then ended up at XXX dealership. He worked with the dealer for a long time, checking out the specific features of a few models, test driving, and deciding what he wanted. He was ready, willing and able to buy that car. But like most young adults, he was on a budget. He and the sales representative came to a meeting of the minds on price. But Dad needed to break the down payment into two chunks a week apart, due to his payday schedule. The dealership flatly refused. He was going to make the full down payment that night, or the deal was off. So Dad walked away. He went 20 minutes down the street to the next town over, where the dealership was hungry. They wanted to make that sale, so they readily agreed to Dad’s terms. The first dealership put a lot of time and effort into making the sale, only to lose it at the last minute. The second dealership only spent about 10 minutes and raked in the cash.

That story has served as an excellent lesson over the years, and it is even more common in the RV industry than it is in the auto industry. RVs are high-priced luxury items. No one really *needs* to buy a new RV, while many people genuinely need a new car. As luxury items, RV prices also include a huge markup—some sources say as much as 30 or even 40 percent. In many ways, despite the popularity of RVs, it really is a buyer’s market.

If the model you like is available at more than one dealer, it is worth the time and effort to visit multiple locations. Each dealer has a unique contract with the manufacturer, meaning that incentives may vary from location to location. Dealers need to move inventory at different times, either to meet a quota or to make room for incoming units. In addition, if you are able to travel to an out of state dealer, you may be able to save hundreds or thousands in freight fees—the closer the dealer is to the manufacturer, the less money is spent on getting the RV to the lot.

Don’t get so stuck on price that you miss the intangibles, however. Take the time to get to know each dealership. Check out the service department. Watch how the dealership handles customers with warranty repairs. Talk to the service manager and customers who are having work done. Even the most expensive RVs are complicated and mostly hand-built pieces of machinery, and are prone to minor problems. Choose a dealership that demonstrates excellent customer care beyond the point of sale.

Negotiating Tips and Tricks

Like any other major purchase, in order to successfully negotiate, you have to understand the rules of the game. The dealer wants to make as much profit as possible, and you want to get the lowest possible price. Dealers generally want to combine everything into one big, complicated deal—trade-in, base purchase price, options, upgrades, financing and taxes. This is an easy way for the customer to get confused or misled, so insist on separating out each portion.

Dad and I had a trade-in for our recent RV purchase. We shopped hard at multiple shows and dozens of individual dealer lots. Almost invariably, the initial exchange went something like this:

Salesperson: How can I help you today?

Me: We’re in the market for a new travel trailer.

Salesperson: Great, I’ll be happy to help. Do you have a trade-in?

Dad: I don’t want to talk about that yet. What can you show us in a (long list of exact specs)?

Salesperson (to me): Can you just tell me what year, make and model your trade-in is?

It’s a classic sales ploy. Get the customer to talk about all the things he or she dislikes in the old model, ostensibly finding out what the customer wants in a new model, but actually taking detailed notes of problems as a reason to lowball the trade-in later.

When that one didn’t work, the salesperson would move on to the next:

Salesperson: Okay, I understand you don’t want to talk about the trade-in. How much are you looking to spend?

Dad: A hundred bucks. How much are you looking to make?

This one is a little trickier. Many salespeople genuinely want to know your price range so that they can show you things that fit your budget. But giving a number can also backfire later in negotiations. Once the salesperson knows that you are comfortable with up to $50K, for example, it can be harder to negotiate down the price of the $25K RV you fell in love with.

While out on the lot, make a detailed inspection of the unit you want. Many dealers try to discourage this, since “any issues will be addressed during the PDI (pre-delivery inspection).” But what happens if something turns out to be more complicated or more difficult to repair? What if you discover that you need or want a particular modification that was not included in the negotiated price? Go over the unit with a fine-toothed comb and decide what, if any, modifications you want.

When you are ready to make a deal, separate out each portion. Negotiate the base purchase price of the new RV first—the as-is price, with the dealer correcting any problems before you take delivery. If you have done your homework, you should know how much comparable units are selling for in your area. Make an offer that is a few thousand less than the lowest price you have seen, and be willing to negotiate up from there. Know your top figure as well and be willing to walk away.

Once you have agreed on a base price, get a quote in writing for any modifications or changes you want. Depending on the time of day and how busy the dealership is, you may not get this number for a couple of days. Be patient and refuse to sign anything until you have an itemized list with accurate prices.

Now you are ready to discuss your trade-in. RV dealers use the NADA guide to price trade-ins. NADA figures are available online, so know what your trade-in is worth before you begin. Make full disclosure to the dealer of anything that is wrong with the trade-in—most dealers have a checklist that serves as a guide, but if there are any problems that the checklist does not cover, go ahead and come clean.

Most dealers told us that they intended to wholesale our previous trailer due to its age and condition, and offered only a thousand dollars or so. But the dealership we ended up buying from saw its potential as a fixer-upper and offered us a fair price. Sure enough, the trailer was sold at a profit after only sitting on the lot for a couple of days!

Negotiating the trade-in after the purchase price prevents dealers from making slippery deals—bloating the trade-in offer to cover an overcharge for the new RV or vice versa. Your trade-in should be a deduction from the fair market price of the new RV—what the dealership would charge to someone who had no trade-in at all.

Financing

RV financing is a complicated subject, and there is no single answer that works well for everyone. Those with excellent credit profiles buying expensive RVs may do best with dealer financing, which is usually tied to a major bank. There are always excellent financing deals for “well-qualified buyers” financing over $50,000, with terms that may last as long as 25 years.

If your credit is slightly tarnished, the RV costs less than $50,000, or you have a great credit score but a relatively short credit history or thin credit profile, you may have more success finding your own financing. Many credit unions are willing to finance RV deals that the major banks do not want, particularly if you are already a customer.

If you happen to be a full-time RVer, things may be even trickier. As of 2012, full-time RVers and live-aboard house boaters got caught up in escrow regulations designed for sticks and bricks houses. Rather than try to separate out the two types of customers, many financial institutions simply stopped writing loans for full-time RVers. Although this can disqualify you from some of the best deals, Dad and I were easily able to obtain good financing through our long-standing relationship with a credit union.

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RV Shopping: Meeting Your Family’s Needs
Florida RV SuperShow: The Biggest RV Show in the Country

Our new travel trailer is well worth the wait!

Despite, or maybe because of, the economic downturn, the RV industry is experiencing an explosion in growth. Although newly retired Baby Boomers remain the biggest market, according to the RVIA (Recreation Vehicle Industry Association), the fastest-growing market segment is young adults aged 18-34. It is easy to see why—even the most luxurious RV park is typically less than half the price of a hotel room in a similar area. If you leave the RV mostly packed between trips, all you need to do before taking off is throw in a few clothes and your perishable food items. Many kids (and adults!) thrive on familiarity, sleeping and eating better in a place that they perceive as “home.” You can sleep in your own bed each night, cook meals in your own kitchen, and use your own bathroom facilities. But with so many models available, trying to choose “the right” RV can be mind-boggling.

Dad and I have been full-time RVers, living and working on the road, for more than seven years. When we set out in January 2012 to upgrade our RV, we expected a quick and easy decision-making process. After all, we knew exactly what we didn’t like in our previous travel trailer, so it was just a simple matter of choosing one that addressed those issues, right? We were quite surprised to find that even with years of RVing experience, it took over two months of serious shopping to pick out the right RV for us.

RV Types

Motorhomes are extremely popular, but are not right for everyone

The first decision you must make when shopping for an RV is the basic type that you prefer. Many RVers love the convenience of a motorhome. A fully self-sufficient vehicle, a motorhome provides maximum flexibility when going down the road. The kids can spread out and relax on the couch or at the dining table. It is easy to grab a sweater, use the bathroom or make lunch, even if the weather is cold or rainy. When you arrive at your destination, all you need to do is park and hook up to the utilities.

Nonetheless, motorhomes do have their drawbacks. High on the list is the initial cost. Motorhomes are subdivided into three categories: Class A, Class B, and Class C. The tour bus-style Class A motorhomes are typically the most expensive, ranging in price from $100,000 to well over $1 million. Of course, all RVs depreciate rapidly, making a gently-used Class A affordable for many families. Class B van conversions and Class C “mini-motorhomes” are smaller and less expensive, generally ranging from $50,000 to $200,000.

Additionally, most people who drive motorhomes also tow a car. Without a car, you must pack the motorhome for moving and disconnect from all utilities every time you want to get groceries or go sightseeing. With a car, you must connect and disconnect the towed vehicle (sometimes called a toad) whenever you change campgrounds. Though many disagree, Dad and I feel that hooking up a car to a motorhome takes just as long as hooking up a travel trailer to a tow vehicle, negating one of the main “benefits” of a self-contained motorhome.

Both fifth wheels and travel trailers are towed behind a vehicle. A fifth wheel requires a truck, as its tongue sits on a special hitch in the truck bed, while travel trailers connect to the rear end of a wide range of vehicles. Some smaller, lighter travel trailers are towable by minivans and even large cars, while the tiniest trailers are towable even by a motorcycle! Of course, the bigger and heavier the travel trailer, the bigger and heavier the tow vehicle must be. Both fifth wheels and travel trailers come in a mind-boggling array of floor plans and design schemes, making it easy to find one that fits your needs. Prices range from just a few thousand for the tiniest travel trailer to over $100,000 for a luxury fifth wheel.

Truck campers fit over the bed of an existing pickup truck. Small, compact and inexpensive, truck campers are a great choice for families who spend the bulk of their time outdoors rather than inside the RV. They provide sleeping, dining, cooking and bathroom space, but like tiny travel trailers, they offer little room to simply spread out and relax.

Each type of RV includes numerous subtypes such as pop-ups, toy haulers and camper vans. Choose the basic type of RV first and then decide if you prefer a specific subtype.

Floor Plans, Weights and Features

The sheer number of available floor plans is mind-boggling

Within these basic types of RV lay a truly stunning variety of options. When my parents first bought their travel trailer in 2004, there were a few basic choices. Would you like the bedroom at the front or rear? Do you want a closet or a spot for two bunk beds? Some RVs offered one or two small slide-outs, providing a bit of additional living space.

In the years since Mom passed away and I moved in with Dad, we went to occasional RV shows and marveled at the new choices. But it wasn’t until we began seriously shopping that we realized just how far RV floor plans have come. Want a bunkhouse that sleeps six in triple bunks, at the opposite end from the master bedroom? No problem. Would you like an outdoor kitchen (in addition to the well-appointed indoor kitchen)? Sure. Care for a slide out TV with that? Maybe you want a garden tub or a large enclosed shower. Are you a gadget lover? How about a 32-inch HDTV, integrated surround sound, hookups for all your consoles and a built-in hair dryer? Want to host a sit-down meal for six people? Check out the king-sized U-shaped dinette.

Of course, the more we shopped, the more we realized that it is impossible to get everything on a wish list in a single RV. Although RVs continue to grow bigger and bigger, they are still tiny compared to even the smallest sticks and bricks home. There is only so much weight that an RV frame can handle, and only so much weight that a tow vehicle can tow.

Our Experience

Can you believe we have this much kitchen in a travel trailer?

Dad and I began our shopping with a specific wish list, then added and subtracted things as we toured different models. After spending seven years sleeping on the jackknife sofa, my feet blocking the silverware drawer, I knew I wanted a separate bedroom. Then I began to realize just how much real estate a bunkhouse truly takes. Somewhere along the line I decided I would rather have a usable kitchen than a bedroom. Likewise, I fell in love with the electric fireplaces that are now installed in many models—until I realized that the space used by the fireplace took away from the space available for electronic components. With DirecTV HD, two laptops, a Kindle Fire, a four-in-one printer/scanner/copier/fax machine and a DVD-VCR combo, we really needed a place to put our components!

Although we are partial to travel trailers, Dad and I did not restrict our shopping. We walked through million-dollar luxury motorhomes (not that we could have afforded one, but it was great for comparison purposes) and tiny truck campers. We soon came to the realization that no matter how much you spend, the tradeoffs remain the same.

As we could not find any particular reason to change, we ultimately decided to stick with a travel trailer. Dad has a small travel scooter that he uses occasionally due to his arthritis and other medical conditions. Our Ford Expedition allows him to carry the scooter in the back, protected from the elements. So we needed to find a travel trailer that fit within the specs that the Expedition could handle. That eliminated the biggest and heaviest trailers from our list, though the beefy Expedition was equipped for the vast majority of trailers that we liked.

It took more than two months to settle on our new travel trailer, the Forest River Flagstaff 27RLSS. Despite attending the Tampa RV Supershow (the biggest RV show in the country) and several smaller shows, and walking the lot of practically every dealer in Central Florida (and several in Georgia), we actually found this one online. I Googled all of the major RV manufacturers and went through every floor plan on their websites one at a time. It was tedious, but well worth the time.

When we saw this particular floor plan online, our initial thought was, “That’s the craziest thing we’ve ever seen!” It was completely unlike any other floor plan we had seen in any other RV, and it looked like it just might work. We located the RV at a small dealer that had not been on our radar, and went to take a look. Yet we rejected it at first. When I decided to give up on having my own bedroom, I decided that sleeping on an air mattress hide-a-bed would be a reasonable alternative. But when we opened up the hide-a-bed in this particular RV, it took up way too much floor space for me. One of our favorite features is the opposing slide-outs that create a huge amount of living area. The hide-a-bed covered most of that space.

After rejecting this model, we walked through another hundred or so RVs, but could not get this one out of our minds. Other than the hide-a-bed concerns, the RV was perfect. At the beginning of this shopping adventure, I discussed the shopping process with a friend who has owned numerous RVs. Her advice was simple—Buy the RV that you love and then customize it to meet your needs. With her words echoing in my mind, I took another look at the floor plan. That’s when it hit me. Instead of sleeping on the hide-a-bed, why not sleep on the dinette? The high density foam cushions make a surprisingly comfortable bed that is just slightly narrower than a queen. Tucked into its own slide-out, it creates a cozy sleeping nook that feels separated from the rest of the room.

We made a fantastic deal and went on to further customize our new RV. We upgraded the 900 watt microwave to an 1100 watt, replaced the plastic toilet with a porcelain model, and purchased an extra-large countertop convection oven to augment the built-in gas oven. We had the dealership install extra satellite hookups for our HD DVR and replaced the 6 cubic foot RV refrigerator with the 9.6 cubic foot household model that we already owned. We are looking into stainless steel replacement options for the plastic kitchen sink, and we bought a starter set of high-quality kitchen knives to place in our built-in knife rack behind the stove. Incidentally, if anyone in your family has a disability, many companies now specialize in accessible RVing. Google “RVing with a disability” for products and services.

We hosted a sit-down Passover dinner just weeks after we bought it

This RV is not perfect—no RV ever will be. But we love the floor plan and the décor. We have a massive entertainment center along the back wall with a built-in 32 inch HDTV and plenty of space for our electronic components. The leather sofa, refrigerator and oven are on a slide-out opposite the king-sized U-shaped dinette that serves as my bed at night and my office by day. The kitchen features an enormous peninsula counter with an extension, providing plenty of prep space to create elaborate meals, and there are enough cabinets to hold a dizzying array of groceries and cooking essentials. The large bathroom has an enclosed corner shower with plenty of elbow room, and Dad’s bedroom has a long hanging wardrobe and enough space for a coat rack. We have two skylights, a plethora of windows with day and night shades, and an upgraded fan that offers full air replacement in less than five minutes. We hosted a full sit-down Passover dinner for five with plenty of room to prepare, cook, serve and store the meal, and no one ever felt crowded. There is enough space to store everything we need for full-timing, and enough curio shelves to display our treasured items. These are the things that are important to us. Your family will have entirely different needs and wants. Oh, and that hide-a-bed I wasn’t thrilled with? It turned out to be extremely useful when we had houseguests for five days right after we moved in. Dad gave the guests his bedroom, and he slept on the hide-a-bed. There was just enough room to get around it to the kitchen, and we folded it up each morning when we awoke. Though I wouldn’t want to do it every day, having that third queen bed is a wonderful feature!

It was a hard-fought battle to find the right RV for us, but in the end it was worth the effort. Take your time, shop around, use the Internet as a tool, and do not allow any dealer to pressure you into making a quick decision. An RV is an investment in your family’s happiness, so make sure that you buy the one that your family truly loves.

Getting oriented in a new area can be a challenge

Those who are adults today remember the ongoing road trip debate: do we ask for directions or not? It was often portrayed as a competition between men and women, with men refusing to stop and ask. Today that debate, once ongoing fodder for sitcom storylines, seems almost quaint. Now the more relevant question is: should we believe the GPS?

Pros and Cons of GPS 

Only a few years ago, GPS was heralded as the technology that would end the age-old tradition of getting lost. Just type your destination into the unit, and you will receive turn by turn directions both onscreen and helpfully narrated by a friendly computer voice. While GPS certainly has its place, it didn’t take long for hapless users to realize that the GPS doesn’t always have our best interests at heart. 

Your GPS can, at times, be your best friend and your worst enemy

Have you ever put your faith in your GPS only to stop short when you realize it’s guiding you onto a one-way street…in the wrong direction? Or had the unit repeatedly order you to make a U-turn in the middle of a busy highway? The problems are magnified when driving an oversized vehicle such as an RV. The GPS has no way of knowing that your vehicle is too heavy for that tiny bridge or too tall to fit underneath the upcoming overpass. 

On the other hand, GPS can be wonderful at helping us get out of confusing situations. Whether you made a wrong turn or just can’t remember how to get back to the interstate from that lovely café, GPS can be invaluable at walking you through the situation step by step. While solely relying on GPS can be a mistake, so can turning your back on the technology altogether. 

Pros and Cons of Maps 

The RVer's Friend details big-rig friendly services across the US and Canada

Many frequent road trippers still consider maps to be the gold standard. A map allows you to look at all available options and plan out the route that makes sense to you. It also allows you to locate major points of interest and weave them into your overall route without having to plot out each portion of the route separately with the GPS. Even if you rely primarily on your GPS, a map can be extremely useful for those situations in which your GPS insists that you go in a direction that simply doesn’t work. 

However, map reading is an art that not everyone is skilled in. From the time I was very young, I was in charge of the map for our family vacations. Dad was busy driving and, while Mom was quite intelligent and competent in almost every way, she simply didn’t have the knack for finding our current location and direction of travel on the map and narrating where we should turn. If you plan to use maps, have everyone in the family practice reading them well in advance of your trip, and give the job of navigator to the person with the best innate sense of how to handle the map. 

If you travel by RV, consider investing in a trucker atlas and the RVers Friend. Dad and I use both in our full-time RVing lifestyle, and have found them both incredibly helpful. The trucker atlas gives detailed information about weight and height restrictions, bridges and tunnels, and other important data for large vehicles. The RVers Friend, updated each year, provides information on big rig-friendly gas stations and restaurants, campgrounds and other important amenities along highways throughout the United States and Canada. 

Old-Fashioned Common Sense 

Getting there is half the fun, if you know where you're going

Perhaps the best way to navigate a road trip is to use good old-fashioned common sense. Sit down well in advance of your trip and put together a route. You can do this with a paper map or online using MapQuest, Google Maps or a similar program. Consider the time of day you plan to travel, where you plan to stop along the way and your personal driving preferences. Sometimes interstate highways are best, and sometimes the scenic route is a lot more fun. 

On the day of your trip, go ahead and punch your destination into your GPS. If there is a major discrepancy between the route you planned and the one that the GPS suggests, try to figure out why. If you are driving an RV, check your truck atlas to make sure that the roads can handle your vehicle. Working back and forth between the GPS and traditional maps is a bit more time consuming, but can ultimately produce a safer and more efficient route that is best for your family. 

Related Articles:

Discovering Roadside Attractions
Planning Ahead for a Family Trip – Tips and Advice
Staying Connected on the Road: Internet Options for Travelers
Family Travel Planning: Dining and packing for small travelers
Are We There Yet? Keeping Kids Entertained on the Road

Hillsborough River is one of Florida's eight original state parks

Just minutes from crowded downtown Tampa, Hillsborough River State Park is a world away. The park won numerous awards in 2010 from ReserveAmerica, the national online campground reservation system. Hillsborough River was ranked #30 of the Top 50 Scenic Views, #15 of the Top 100 Family Campgrounds, #5 in the Top 25 Tours and Events, and #1 in both the Top 25 Canoeing Spots and the Top 25 Water Recreation Parks. Due to its location, Hillsborough River State Park is open year-round.

History

The suspension bridge is still going strong more than 70 years after it was built

Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, Hillsborough River State Park opened to the public in 1938. It was one of the eight original state parks in Florida. The Hillsborough River runs through the park, creating a small set of rapids. The park has been updated numerous times over the years, but many of the original buildings remain. The original concession stand is now a pavilion, while the old park entrance houses a small museum. The original suspension bridge is readily accessible via a short walk from one of the parking lots.

The land on which Hillsborough River State Park now sits formerly belonged to the Seminole tribe. Conflicts between the Seminoles and the settlers erupted after Florida became a United States territory, and when the US government decided to move the Seminoles west, the Second Seminole War began. A fort was constructed along the river between Fort Brooke (modern day Tampa) and Fort King (modern day Ocala) to protect the bridge from Seminole attacks. That fort was abandoned and soon replaced by Fort Foster. Today the park offers guided tours of the reconstructed Fort Foster.

Recreation

This is one of the only Class II Rapids in Florida

Canoeing and kayaking are among the park’s biggest draws. The river boasts one of the few Class II rapids in Florida. Canoes are not permitted through that section of the river. More than seven miles of hiking trails lead to picturesque hideaways. However, approximately a quarter of the park is in a flood zone, so it is important to check with the ranger station for updated weather information, particularly during spring and summer.

An old-fashioned swing set

An ADA-accessible half-acre swimming pool, a playground complete with swings, an interpretive museum and numerous picnic spots are among the park’s offerings. Campfire programs are offered most weekends. Bicycles and canoes are available for rent at the well-stocked camp store. A quick-service restaurant is open year-round.

Campground

The campground can accommodate all sorts of camping setups

Whether you prefer to travel with a tent or a large motor home, the Hillsborough River State Park can accommodate you. Unlike many state parks, the park has sites for RVs up to 50 feet in length. The campground consists of two heavily wooded loops, offering a real back to nature experience. All sites offer electric and water hookups, and a dump station is located between the two loops. Some sites are a fairly long walk from the restroom facilities, so choose your campsite carefully if this is a concern.

The restrooms provide flush toilets and hot showers. All campsites have picnic tables and fire rings. Pets are permitted, but must be physically under your control at all times. You are expected to clean up after your pet.

Tips for Parents

The park is filled with natural wonders

Hillsborough River State Park is just minutes from downtown Tampa, making it an ideal location for those who want to combine city sightseeing and old-fashioned fun into a single trip. The park is extremely popular, so book as far ahead of your stay as possible. Campsites are $26.88 per night with tax as of 2011. Senior citizens and those with proof of disability who are Florida residents qualify for half-price camping. Each site can accommodate two tents or an RV and one tent.

Whether you are camping at the park or simply visiting for the day, keep in mind that the park is home to a wide variety of native plants and animals. Poison ivy, spiders, snakes and other hazards are always a possibility. Teach your kids to respect the natural world, but be careful not to induce fear.

The Prayer of the Woods is still meaningful today

Set age-appropriate ground rules before your trip. Are your kids permitted to leave the campsite without you? How far can they roam? Are they allowed to try building a campfire? What about cooking over the fire? Talking through your expectations at the outset can prevent arguments during the trip.

Even if you have an RV outfitted with all the latest gadgets, don’t let your kids stay cooped up inside. Take the Fort Foster tour. Participate in the campfire programs. Rent a canoe or go swimming in the pool. Kids are great at finding ways to entertain themselves outside, so set up some camp chairs and keep an eye on them.

Be sure to pack plenty of lighting if you will be spending the night. The park gets extremely dark at night, so everyone needs a flashlight for restroom trips. You will also need lanterns for campsite illumination, and battery-operated lighting if you are sleeping in tents. Even in Florida, the ground can get cold, so pack camping pads and spare blankets.

Hillsborough River State Park is a true throwback to a different era. Bring your camera and plenty of spare batteries, since you never know when a photo opportunity will arise.

No internet option is perfect for all travelers

Anyone who is an adult today can remember when staying connected during a trip meant an occasional phone call to the office and postcards to friends and relatives. Today, however, we live in an always-on internet world. Disconnecting for a week or more can be impractical or simply impossible. While there is no magical solution that works well in every situation, a variety of internet solutions are available at a reasonable cost.

Wi-Fi

Most hotels and many RV parks offer Wi-Fi connectivity

Wi-Fi, or wireless internet, has been available since the mid to late 1990s. At that time, hardware was expensive, service was slow, and hotspots were tough to find. In the early 2000s, technology improved to the point that Wi-Fi became a sort of de facto standard for internet on the road. Today virtually all new laptop computers are sold with a Wi-Fi card. Most hotels and many campgrounds offer some form of free or paid Wi-Fi access. A few major cities offer Wi-Fi blanketing, in which the downtown district or even the entire city provides Wi-Fi connectivity.

There are several standards representing the evolution of Wi-Fi technology. Newer standards, such as 802.11n, are backwards-compatible with older standards. This allows you to purchase a new computer with an up-to-date Wi-Fi card and still connect to older networks. However, your speed and the range at which you can get a signal may be lower on an older network.

Some places heavily advertise their Wi-Fi networks

Wi-Fi is a terrific option for travelers who only stay in locations that provide it and do not need connectivity while going down the road. Increasingly, fast-food and casual restaurants provide free Wi-Fi for their customers, allowing you to pull off the road for a few minutes to use the internet. Wi-Fi signal ranges are quite limited, so you may need to take your computer inside the restaurant rather than tapping into the signal from the parking lot.

Wi-Fi also works well when traveling internationally. Two years ago, we were on an Eastern Caribbean cruise. Shipboard internet is available on most cruise lines, but is frightfully expensive. Instead, I opted to work while in port. In St. Maarten, we did a shortened version of the America’s Cup regatta. After the race, we took a water taxi to downtown, where I slipped into the local library. After figuring out how to use the French keyboard, I was able to work for about an hour at no charge, meeting my deadline. We then re-boarded the water taxi with enough time left to do some shopping before the ship departed.

The biggest limitation on Wi-Fi is availability. We live full-time in an RV and often camp in state or federal parks, which do not offer Wi-Fi connectivity. We also drive for long periods, providing me an excellent opportunity to work in the car. So we decided that we need a more permanent solution for our internet needs.

Smart Phones

New cell phones provide internet access, but the usefulness may be limited

Remember when cell phones only made telephone calls? I recently purchased my first Android phone, which provides full internet access and hundreds of productivity applications. My cell plan offers unlimited data usage, but only when connecting directly from the phone.

I have found that my phone is sufficient for responding to email, taking notes and performing limited research, but between the screen size and the touch screen keyboard, I cannot write a full article on it. However, if your work needs primarily involve staying in touch and receiving emails, a smart phone might work for you.

My phone also offers the option to create a wireless hotspot at an additional monthly fee. As a hotspot, my phone will allow five different devices to connect to the internet. The major drawback is that the speed of connectivity is based on the speed of the phone. If we happen to be in an area with a strong signal, that’s great. If not, then we could experience speeds similar to dialup or worse. When using the hotspot function, I am limited to 5 gigabytes of data per month, like most AirCard solutions.

AirCards

The Sprint Overdrive is a hybrid 3G/4G device

AirCards have gone in and out of favor since their debut in the early 2000s. An AirCard, also known as a mobile broadband card, allows you to connect your computer to a cellular network. The current iteration is known as 3G, or third generation. Fourth generation, or 4G, service promises speeds resembling traditional broadband, but is only available in specific major cities.

You must purchase both the AirCard and a monthly data plan. Some carriers, including Sprint and Clear, offer unlimited data for a single monthly fee on the 4G network. Others, such as Verizon, have monthly data caps on 4G. All carriers currently limit 3G access to 5 gigabytes per month.

The Virgin Mifi will have a 5 gigabyte data cap beginning Feb 2011

Virgin Broadband2Go made a huge splash in late 2010 when the company announced that it was offering truly unlimited (no cap) 3G on a no-contract pre-paid basis for $40 per month. Unfortunately that offer was short-lived. Virgin announced last week that in February, it will begin capping data usage at 5 gigabytes per month. Some carriers, such as Virgin, slow down users’ speed when they exceed the limit. Others, such as Sprint, charge users a per-megabyte fee for excess usage.

To put the data cap in perspective, we had a Sprint Overdrive for several months. The Overdrive is a 3G/4G hybrid device that automatically connects to 4G when it is available, and 3G the rest of the time. In the year that we had the Overdrive, we were only in a 4G area once, for a few minutes. So we were subject to the 3G data cap every month. We had two computers connected to the device and were careful to avoid watching streaming video or listening to music. We turned off our automatic updates, and used settings in our browsers to prevent videos from automatically loading. Despite these precautions, we exceeded our usage twice, both at a significant cost.

The major advantage to mobile broadband is the ability to use the service while traveling down the road. Dad usually drives, and I am able to settle back in my seat and write articles as we go. The air card works about as well as a cell phone–sometimes the signal drops when we enter a remote area, and the speed varies according to our distance from a cell tower. However, I have successfully connected from deep within a state park.

Satellite Internet

Satellite internet is currently the most expensive but most reliable long-term mobile solution

Satellite internet is the most expensive but most reliable option for long-term travelers. If you have an RV or house boat, you can have a dish permanently mounted, preventing the need to set it up and tear it down each time. Some systems also offer automatic pointing, saving you time in determining the proper coordinates.

The initial cost outlay is significant for a permanently mounted system, ranging from $3,000 to more than $20,000. Monthly fees range from $40 per month for a consumer-grade plan with a daily download cap of 200 megabytes to nearly $1000 per month for a commercial-grade plan with no download caps.

Due to price, we have decided not to invest in portable satellite internet at this time. We currently use the Virgin Broadband2Go mobile broadband service. Once the 5 gigabyte data limit kicks in next month, we may weigh our options yet again. The price of satellite equipment has fallen dramatically in the past five years, and we hope that it will continue to fall. Until and unless that happens, however, we will continue to use a mix of mobile broadband and Wi-Fi.