Tombstone was a haven for both outlaws and lawmen

Tombstone, Arizona, is inextricably linked to the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral. More than perhaps any other gun battle, that one is seen as representative of the lawless Western frontier. It elevated Marshal Wyatt Earp to mythic hero status in legend and lore, despite the fact that at the time, most of the townspeople sympathized with the Cowboy gang. The Earps stood trial for murder but were ultimately exonerated.

Dad and I love a good mystery, and we were eager to dig further into the topic of law and order in Tombstone. As is true throughout the Old West, things in Tombstone were not nearly as cut and dried as Hollywood would have us believe. Part-time lawmen they may have been, but the Earp contingent and their pal Doc Holliday were in their time at least as well-known for their criminal exploits as for their lawful ones. Gunfighters and gamblers with a long list of charges in multiple states, their records were no cleaner than those of the outlaws they publicly sought to eradicate. In fact, the O.K. Corral fiasco was apparently more of a standoff between rival gangs than any sort of morally-induced arrest attempt.

Regardless, the time of the Earps was over. Morgan Earp was assassinated in March 1882. Following a vendetta ride, Wyatt and Virgil left Arizona never to return, as did Doc Holliday. But their lives were forever marked by the gunfight. Meanwhile, Tombstone was tired of the violence.

Tombstone Courthouse

Tombstone finally got a courthouse in 1882

Even before the gunfight, it was clear that Tombstone was sorely lacking in any sort of legal establishment. Guns were actually banned in Tombstone at the time. Beginning in 1880, visitors could carry guns into town, but were required to check them at the hotel or sheriff’s office. The topic of firearm carrying actually factored into the Earp trial, as the faction protested that they were serving as legally-armed representatives of the law rather than illegally-armed vigilantes.

But who could actually enforce the gun laws? At the time, the nearest government buildings were a two-day ride away in the county seat of Tucson or the territorial capital of Prescott. Yet Tombstone’s population was at least as high as that of either neighboring town. In 1881, Cochise County was created and Tombstone named its county seat.

The old courtroom has been preserved

A shiny new courthouse opened in 1882. But for every dedicated lawman like John Slaughter, there were many more of questionable backgrounds, including Deputy Sheriff Burt Alvord. Apparently Alvord couldn’t ever quite pick a side. As a teenager, he was part of the lynch mob that hung John Heath on the streets of Tombstone, but he became a serious lawman under Slaughter a few years later. Then he decided he preferred the company of outlaws, and left the law enforcement business to start his own gang.

Tombstone’s boom years lasted less than a decade. By the end of the 1800s, the mines were full of water, the price of silver was down, and most residents had moved away. Despite a valiant effort by the few who remained, the county seat moved to nearby Bisbee in 1929. The last offices at the courthouse closed in 1931.

Tombstone turned to tourism to survive, and by the 1950s the town was regularly drawing visitors eager to experience the Wild West. In 1955, the Tombstone Restoration Commission took over the old courthouse. It opened as a museum under the purview of the Arizona State Parks system in 1959, the first state park to open in Arizona.

Visiting the Tombstone Courthouse

Take photos of yourself or the kids on an old Western saddle

As is true across the United States, the Arizona State Park system faced a serious budgetary crisis in 2010 and 2011, forcing major cuts. The Tombstone Courthouse was on the short list of spots designated for closure, but the Tombstone Chamber of Commerce and the City of Tombstone stepped in. As of 2011, the Courthouse is open from 9-5, 7 days per week. Admission is $5 for adults, $2 for kids aged 7 to 13, and free for those aged 6 and under. The courthouse is located at the corner of 3rd and Toughnut Street.

An ominous gallows stands in the quiet courtyard

The Courthouse is filled with artifacts and informational signs that tell the story of Tombstone’s history. Numerous displays are dedicated to the story of law and order, including a massive law library. The old courtroom has been preserved. However, there are also entire rooms dedicated to both Native American and pioneer history in the region. One former jail cell has been preserved, while the rest of the cavernous room is filled with mining equipment and various wagons.

Outside, a replica gallows stands grimly in the quiet courtyard. The original burned in 1912. Interestingly, despite Tombstone’s reputation for violence, only seven men were lawfully hung in town.

Wyatt Earp House and Gallery

The restored Wyatt Earp House is now an art gallery

At the corner of 1st and Fremont, just a short walk from the courthouse, is the Wyatt Earp House and Gallery. Today the building is 756 square feet, consisting of two houses that were pushed together sometime after the Earps left Tombstone. Wyatt lived in the 376 square foot adobe portion of the building.

Exactly what happened to the house between the time Wyatt left in 1882 and the time Jim Allen discovered it in 2003 is not entirely clear. What is known is that Jim and his wife Liz put a great deal of time, effort and love into the building’s restoration. Needing to recoup some of their money, but wanting to open the home to the public free of charge, they eventually settled on a solution. They opened an art gallery in the historic building.

It is perfectly acceptable to visit solely for the history without a desire to browse the art. As we walked in the door, we were greeted by a friendly woman who shared the history of the building with us. There are photographs of the restoration available for viewing, and she was happy to answer all the questions we had about the home.

Tips for Parents

The jail cell was creepy but cool

Packed with thousands of artifacts, the Tombstone Courthouse is a must-see for those with even a passing interest in history. A traditional museum with written signage rather than multimedia exhibits, the Courthouse retains visual interest for even the smallest child. Try to read and summarize the information for younger kids.

Follow your kids’ lead. It would be impossible to fully read and digest all that the courthouse offers in even a series of visits, so focus on the things that draw your kids’ attention. You can make a cursory pass through the entire courthouse in an hour or so, but those with a deeper interest should plan for at least two hours.

The Wyatt Earp House and Gallery takes just a few minutes to see, but is well worth a visit. In today’s culture of suburban sprawl, both kids and adults are generally shocked to see just how little space the average family home provided. The restoration photographs are quite interesting to see. It is clear that the current owners love the home, and they love showing it off to visitors of all ages. This is definitely not a snooty or exclusive art gallery, and children are always welcome.

Gunfight at the O.K. Corral

Tombstone, Arizona, is known as the “Town too Tough to Die” for its remarkable ability to survive against all odds, but many of its residents were not so lucky. The town’s history is marked by short, violent lives that ended with mining accidents, disease or gunfights. Today, well-trained historical reenactors replay some of the most infamous gunfights for tourists at the O.K. Corral and the Helldorado Town.

O.K. Corral

The gunfight at the O.K. Corral didn't actually happen at the O.K. Corral

One of the Old West’s most famous gun battles was fought in Tombstone, Arizona. A showdown between the Earp lawmen and the Cowboy gang of the Clantons and McLaurys, the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral actually took place on Fremont Street, which is now the main highway. But the old corral serves as a historical museum, and the battle is reenacted daily at 2 p.m. in a custom-built outdoor theater on the grounds. As of 2011, admission is $10. Kids aged 5 and under are free. Your admission ticket includes the gunfight, the museum, the Historama exhibit and a copy of the Epitaph newspaper printed just after the original fight.

The reenactment begins at the opposite end of town

The show actually begins around 1:30 p.m. at the opposite end of Allen Street, in front of the Birdcage Theater. The Earps and Cowboys reenact the events that led up to the gunfight in a series of vignettes. This preshow, free for everyone, is masterfully done, as it invariably draws a crowd up the street to the O.K. Corral. In order to see the resolution, you must then buy a ticket and enter the attraction. A great example of marketing without making it feel like a sales pitch! If you buy your tickets in advance, you can skip the long line at the ticket counter and head inside to see the exhibits.

The museum consists of a series of indoor and outdoor displays filled with artifacts from the corral and the town. The corral was literally a horse corral, a stable where travelers and residents kept their horses. Mockups of the blacksmith shop and other support buildings are on the grounds. Plan to spend an hour or so seeing everything in detail.

The animatronic gunfighters are so cheesy, they're fun

A short reenactment of the gunfight entertains the waiting crowd at the press of a button. Dating to the years before the theater show, this version features old, beat-up and not very expressive audio-animatronics. It is a classic showcase of vintage roadside attractions, and is so bad that it is actually quite amusing. Dad and I exchanged worried glances at this point, but we need not have fretted. The actual gunfight show, complete with well-trained actors, is highly entertaining and extremely well done.

Shortly before 2 p.m., the crowd was asked to line up outside the theater doors. Those with disabilities who cannot manage stairs were put in a separate line, as were families with children who might be frightened by the loud gunshots. Those groups were admitted first, with disabled visitors placed in the front row and small children seated by the door.

The live actors were phenomenally talented

The rest of us were then allowed to sit wherever we liked. The small open-air theater offers bleacher seating, so every seat has a good view. It started raining fairly heavily as soon as we were seated, which gave Dad and me another lesson on Arizona. In New Orleans, where we’re from, the humidity is extremely high. Once it rains, even briefly, everything is soaked for the rest of the day–clothes, hair, benches, grass. In Arizona, the overall humidity is quite low. The rainstorm ended roughly halfway through the 30 minute show. By the time the show ended, my jeans were completely dry.

The show was terrific! Continuing the vignettes that took place outside, the story uses a mix of humor and foreshadowing to set the stage for the historic gunfight. The Cowboys are presented as sympathetic characters, but so are the Earps. The show avoids taking sides, presenting a balanced picture of the battle. The gunfight itself is short, as was the original battle, but contains numerous very loud shots. Sensitive kids may want to cover their ears.

Historama

The Historama is worth a visit

The Historama entrance is inside the O.K. Corral gift shop. Shows begin every half-hour throughout the day. Created in the 1960s, the attraction is a true roadside gem. A 3-dimensional diorama filled with tiny figures sits on a table on stage. Throughout the show, a projection screen moves up and down to show historical film clips. At various points, figures on the diorama come to life to demonstrate the events mentioned in the narration. And what a narration! At the Historama, the story of Tombstone is told by the legendary Vincent Price. The show is fascinating, and is included with admission to the O.K. Corral.

Tombstone Epitaph

The Tombstone Epitaph office holds vintage newspaper equipment

Located behind the Crystal Palace on 5th Street, the Tombstone Epitaph newspaper dates to 1880 and is the oldest continuously-published newspaper in Arizona. Founder John Clum chose the name as a tongue-in-cheek reference to the town’s name. Your O.K. Corral admission includes a coupon for a free copy of the Epitaph story on the gunfight. Admission to the Epitaph museum is free.

The Epitaph is still published today, but the museum celebrates its 1880s incarnation. Look for printing presses, old editions, and a wide range of artifacts and memorabilia. I actually found a more recent edition with a story I liked, and I was able to purchase a copy for under $4. Allow 30 minutes or so to look around.

Helldorado Town

Helldorado Town is a mockup Western town

Helldorado Town is located at the back end of Tombstone, along Toughnut Street near the Good Enough Mine. The town features mockups of Old West buildings, a miniature golf course and an open-air theater. Two different gunfight shows are presented each day in the theater.

The ticket booth is a small wooden structure at the Helldorado entrance. You do not need a ticket to visit the town or café, but tickets are checked on the way into the theater. As of 2011, admission is $6. The seating is in full sun, but drinks are permitted. Grab a cold bottle of water from the café on the way in.

The Tombstone Territorial Gunfighters have won awards

The Tombstone Territorial Gunfighters have won a number of awards, and their performance skills are top-notch. The 30-minute show consists of a series of short vignettes. One actor takes the role of narrator, providing a bit of background on the scene, while the others act out the events. Each scene ends in a shooting, which can be quite loud. If your kids are sensitive, encourage them to cover their ears.

Tips for Parents

Gunfights are frequent around town

Regardless of your personal feelings on guns, gunplay was an important part of Tombstone’s history. Both the O.K. Corral and Helldorado present a balanced view of the events that led to each shooting. The shows are sensitively done and lightened with a great deal of humor.

If you are not sure how your kids will react to the noise, choose a seat near the exit. You are free to come and go at both shows, so don’t hesitate to take a nervous child out of the theater, calm her down and then return.

Arrive early for each show. Although all seats are good, the lines can get long just before showtime. Poke around the displays or enjoy a snack rather than wasting your time standing in line.

Tombstone Arizona is hot and dry. Water, sunscreen and a hat are essential. Keep an eye on your kids and move into the shade if anyone starts showing signs of exhaustion or dehydration.

Tombstone is filled with original buildings

I am a huge fan of Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia, a living history center focusing on the Revolutionary War era. I love the experience of walking the historic streets as reenactors draw me into the lives of the people who founded this country. Consequently, when Dad and I decided to visit the American Southwest, Tombstone, Arizona was at the top of my list.

One of the best-preserved Old West boom towns in the country, Tombstone celebrates its history with a wide variety of performances and historic tours. I hoped that Tombstone would give me the same feeling of historic immersion that I get in Colonial Williamsburg, and the town did not disappoint.

About Tombstone

The mountains around Tombstone were filled with silver mines

In 1877, prospector Ed Schieffelin set out from Camp Huachuca, Arizona into dangerous Apache territory, determined to find silver. Soldiers jeered at him, telling Ed that the only thing he would find in those mountains was his own tombstone. When Schieffelin discovered a major silver vein, he decided to give the claim the ironic name of “Tombstone.” Then known as Goose Flats, the town changed its name to Tombstone in 1879.

The Tombstone claim was just the first in a long line of successful mining operations. During the 1870s and 1880s, the mines produced an estimated $85 million in silver. The town of Tombstone quickly grew into a boom town with an opera house, multiple banks and newspapers, a variety of shops and restaurants, and churches representing each of the major Christian denominations.

Boom towns also appealed to the seedier elements, and Tombstone was no exception. The town boasted 14 gambling halls, more than 100 saloons and dozens of brothels. In 1881, the Bird Cage Theater opened its doors, quickly drawing a reputation as the wildest night spot in the West.

The O.K. Corral shootout is synonymous with Tombstone

Shootouts were frequent in Tombstone’s early history, as Cowboys (which in those days referred to a loosely organized gang of outlaws) clashed with lawmen. Tombstone’s most famous shootout is now known as the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, though the fight did not actually take place inside the corral. On October 26, 1881, the Earp lawmen faced off against the Cowboy gang of the Clantons and McLaurys.

Within seconds, the battle was over. Brothers Tom and Frank McLaury were dead, along with Billy Clanton. Cowboys Billy Claiborne and Ike Clanton had fled from battle. Virgil and Morgan Earp were injured, as was Doc Holliday. Wyatt Earp alone emerged unscathed. The Earps were later indicted for murder, as witnesses testified that the Cowboys were in the process of surrendering, but they were ultimately cleared.

The hometown July 4th parade went right past the wooden buildings

Filled with hastily constructed wooden structures, as was common in boom towns, Tombstone nearly burned to the ground twice, in 1881 and 1882. Both times citizens rebuilt quickly. But when the mines started to flood, Tombstone’s grand era was over. Despite the installation of massive pumps, the mines were largely unusable by 1886. Tombstone nearly died out, dropping from an estimated population of 20,000 in the boom years to fewer than 700 by the turn of the 20th century.

When the county seat moved to nearby Bisbee in 1929, many thought that Tombstone was dead. But the “Town too Tough to Die” rallied, as the remaining residents turned to tourism. The annual Helldorado Days festival began that year, a tradition that remains today. By 1961, Tombstone was a National Historic District Landmark. Today more than 450,000 tourists visit each year.

Our Visit to Tombstone

Stagecoaches and covered wagons still fill the streets

Driving into town with our travel trailer, we were immediately stopped by a stagecoach in the road! This was our first hint that Tombstone is a different sort of experience. We stayed at the Wells Fargo RV Park, an incredibly friendly and reasonably-priced park literally next door to the O.K. Corral. We picked out our site and turned off the car. We would not turn it on again all week except to drive to Bisbee, a mining town turned arts community a few miles up the road. We also took the car to Boot Hill, though we could have visited by trolley had we so decided.

Getting around Tombstone Arizona is incredibly easy. The Historic District is six blocks long by three blocks wide–and each block is less than the half the length of a modern city block. The area is roughly bounded by the O.K. Corral at one end of Allen Street, the main road through the Historic District, and the Birdcage Theater at the other. Vehicles are not permitted on the historic portion of Allen Street, but free visitor parking is available at either end of town. Public restrooms are located near the parking lots, and the restaurants have facilities for their customers. The town is reasonably wheelchair-accessible.

Tombstone Trolley

The Tombstone Trolley was great for disabled and able-bodied alike

At the recommendation of the RV park owners, our first order of business was a trolley tour. We always like to get a narrated overview of each place we visit before exploring in more detail on our own, and the park owners assured us that Tombstone Trolley was well worth the price. They were absolutely correct!

The 25-minute trolley ride departs from the corner of 4th and Toughnut Street, behind the Tombstone Art Gallery and across from the Big Iron Shooting Gallery (where you can fire an authentic 1800s Colt six-shooter for just $3). Trolleys leave every half-hour throughout the day. At 2011 prices of $5 for adults and $3 for kids aged 6 to 12 (5 and under are free), it is an incredible value.

The highly knowledgeable trolley drivers provide a fully-narrated tour of the Historic District, sharing stories and legends of some of the town’s most infamous residents. At various points, representatives of other local businesses, such as the Good Enough Mine Tour and the O.K. Corral, board the trolley to speak for a moment about their attractions. But they are actors rather than salespeople, and the experience feels authentic and fun rather than like a sales pitch.

Tombstone's most infamous residents are buried in Boot Hill

The trolley also goes to the Boot Hill cemetery, a few blocks up the main highway from the Historic District. Although it is within walking distance, the highway is heavily trafficked and lacking in sidewalks. You can depart the trolley at the cemetery and catch a ride back on the next one 30 minutes later. We decided to wait and take our car to Boot Hill another day, to allow ourselves more time to explore, but as it turns out 30 minutes is about right.

The trolley is fully wheelchair-accessible via a lift, and is the only accessible public transportation within the Historic District. The narration mixes historical facts with puns and jokes, creating a spiel that captures the attention of all ages. We highly recommend this tour for everyone! An evening Ghosts and Murders tour covers Tombstone’s grisly past, but we did not have the opportunity to take that ride.

Old Butterfield Stagecoach

This stagecoach was actually built in the 1860s!

It seems like every time you turn around in Tombstone, you will see another old-fashioned, horse-drawn vehicle. Stagecoaches and covered wagons vie for attention on virtually every street corner. But if you are going to shell out for a ride, why not go for authenticity? The Old Butterfield Stagecoach is the only one that was actually built in the 1800s. All the others in town are reproductions.

The stagecoach entered service in the 1860s as a mail coach along the old Butterfield route from St. Louis to San Francisco. The trip originally took approximately three weeks, with as many as six passengers crowded into the tiny coach. There were four in our group, and I honestly don’t know where two more would have fit!

The vintage seats are worn but so comfortable

The coach is kept in safe transport condition, but has not been “restored.” The original paint and velour seat covers are showing definite signs of wear, which I was glad to see. I prefer for historical artifacts to look historic, rather than brand new.

The 20-minute ride covered most of the same sites as the trolley, but we were more interested in the experience of the stagecoach itself. We were warned that it was a bumpy ride, but we just thought it was fun. Then again, we both adore bone-rattling old wooden roller coasters, so we may not be the best judges! But the elderly gentleman with a portable oxygen tank who rode with us seemed perfectly comfortable. As of 2011, the ride costs $10 for adults and $5 for children. Kids aged 5 and under are free.

Shopping and Dining in Tombstone

Big Nose Kate's is just one of several historic saloons in town

Tombstone’s Historic District is lined with fascinating shops that sell a plethora of interesting memorabilia. In sharp contrast to many tourist towns, T-shirts are not the only souvenir. Handmade crafts by local artisans, Western clothing and a wide range of antiques abound. In this era of bookstore closings and e-readers, I was thrilled to find a mind-boggling assortment of books. Western history is the predominant theme, from photo essays to biographies. Pay attention as you shop, as most spots have signage describing the original 1880s tenants. Some major gun battles took place in what are now shops.

It is tough to find a bad meal in Tombstone. In its heyday, Tombstone’s streets were lined with saloons. Today most of them have retained the original décor, but now serve food to all ages. We were particularly impressed with the Crystal Palace, the Longhorn, and Big Nose Kate’s, but would not hesitate to try the others as well.

Tips for Parents

You can find gunfighters on the street and in multiple shows

Carry plenty of cash. Nothing is expensive in Tombstone, and those from big cities may be quite surprised at how low prices actually are. But there are endless opportunities to shell out a few dollars for an authentic Western experience, from firing an antique gun to posing for old-time photos. Although it is not required, all of Tombstone’s various performers and tour guides accept tips, so make sure you have plenty of singles.

If your kids are old enough, let them carry their own spending money. Cheap but fun souvenirs are plentiful, providing a wonderful opportunity to teach a lesson on budgeting. Some parents prefer to give kids their entire spending budget at once, with the caveat that once it’s gone, it’s gone. Others dole out a portion each day, so that if kids make poor choices one day, they have the opportunity to try again the next.

Carry lots of water each day. Front porches along each building offer awnings and benches, providing space to rest in the shade. But the streets and many of the activities are in full sun, and it is easy to get dehydrated. Tightly capped bottles of water are allowed in virtually every location. Sunscreen and a hat are also essential.

Related Tombstone Arizona Articles:

The Bird Cage Theater: A True Time Capsule of the Old West

The Good Enough Mine Tour: The Source of Tombstone’s Wealth

Gunfights of Tombstone, Arizona

Sometimes the locals just dress up for fun

Tombstone, Arizona is a lot of fun. Both professional reenactors and local residents wander the streets in full Wild West regalia, joining the tourists at the Crystal Palace for a cold beer or simply relaxing on a bench watching people pass by. Historic tours and staged gunfights bring the feeling of the Old West to life. But some purists argue that the Tombstone of today is largely manufactured. Reconstructed buildings, dubious timelines and tall tales have in some ways turned Tombstone into a living piece of mythology rather than a fully-accurate depiction of life in the 1880s.

But one building remains an indisputable historic artifact, a living monument to Tombstone’s golden era, when Wyatt Earp, Bat Masterson, the Clantons and the McLaurys passed their time in the town’s saloons and gambling houses. The Bird Cage Theater might have suffered the same indelible imprints of time as the rest of Tombstone, had fate not intervened.

Bird Cage History

Tombstone was built to support the mines that run below

Boom towns in the Old West generally had two main categories of residents: the rough and tumble miners and the somewhat more refined mine owners. Everyone else generally worked in a support industry. While the miners were often single, the mine owners often brought their families to town.

Boom towns of any size had to balance the needs of both types of residents–building schools, churches, opera houses and dress shops for the families, and gambling houses, saloons and brothels for everyone else. Invariably, these diversions also drew a large population of transients–outlaws and professional gamblers who stayed for a few days or weeks at a time before disappearing into the sunset. They were tolerated, and in many cases welcomed, because they always had money to spend.

It was in this spirit that the Bird Cage Theater got its start. The doors opened on Christmas Day, 1881, just three months after the infamous gunfight at the O.K. Corral. Home to roughly 20,000 residents, Tombstone was flush with men eager to spend their ready cash on women, gambling and alcohol.

Outlaws and gunfighters were prevalent in Old Tombstone

Within its first year, the Bird Cage developed the reputation as the wickedest, wildest spot west of New Orleans’ Basin Street. With live entertainers such as Lillian Russell and Lillie Langtry on stage, the Bird Cage also offered less respectable entertainment. Faro was the card game of choice for many men of the era, and a table in the main room allowed gamblers to keep an eye on the performance. The balconies on either side held “cribs,” referred to as “bird cages,” where high-dollar ladies of the evening could draw a curtain for privacy while entertaining their clients.

This poker game lasted for more than eight years straight

Downstairs, a never-ending poker game was just steps away from another set of cribs. The minimum buy-in to the poker game was $1,000–or roughly $22,000 in today’s money! Would-be gamblers placed their names on a list, sometimes waiting as long as 4 days for a seat at the table.

The Bird Cage Theater was open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Always packed with rough and ready frontier men, virtually all of whom were drunk and carrying firearms, and ladies of the night, who were by necessity armed and always ready to fight, the Bird Cage saw more than its share of violence. It is unclear exactly how many gun battles and knife fights occurred, but it is estimated that 26 lives were taken. The theater is riddled with 140 bullet holes.

The Bird Cage sat boarded up for nearly 50 years

The Bird Cage escaped the Tombstone fire of 1882, but was in the potential flood path when the mines flooded in 1889. The theater owners carefully boarded up the property before fleeing. Though the theater was undamaged, the town was virtually abandoned. It was not until early promoters developed Tombstone’s tourist trade in 1929 that the town began to rebound.

The Bird Cage sat abandoned, its doors and windows still covered by their original boards, until new owners opened it in 1934. Incredibly, the theater was still in surprisingly good condition. The Hunley family made as few changes as possible, bringing in some museum-style exhibits but leaving the original furnishings in place. Within a few months, they opened the theater as a tourist attraction. Consequently, it remains a sort of time capsule, a chance to step back into the 1880s as they were rather than as they are portrayed today.

Our Visit to the Bird Cage

The entrance sets the stage for what will follow

**Note** Personal photography is permitted inside. However, you must get written permission to post photos anywhere online, including Facebook.

As of 2011, daytime admission to the Bird Cage is $10 per person. The evening ghost hunt is $20 per person, and is not recommended for children. The daytime tour is self-guided, and your ticket is valid all day. You are welcome to come and go at your leisure from 9 a.m. until 6 p.m.

The front room houses a small gift shop and ticket counter along with a few historical artifacts. It was cool, but not that different from other historic buildings that we have visited. As soon as we stepped through the door into the main part of the theater, however, our jaws dropped.

Bat Masterson and Doc Holliday played faro on this table

Although it sounds incredibly cheesy, the door felt like a literal portal, whisking us back in time to the 1880s. The antique wooden floor boards creaked beneath every step. The musty scent of dust, decay and the passage of time was thick in our nostrils as we gazed dumbfounded around the room. At the far end was the stage, with the grand piano directly in front on the main floor and the faro table slightly to my left of the piano. Above us on the balconies were the original bird cages–the cribs in which the ladies of the evening entertained their clients.

We hardly knew where to look first!

Throughout the main floor were glass cases containing all manner of artifacts. Dad got down to business, the camera shutter flying as he attempted to capture everything on film. I took a slow, purposeful walk around the perimeter of the room, trying to drink in every detail. Carefully written informational signs explained each new thing that I discovered.

Gradually we made our way to the stage, where a staircase at stage right invited us backstage. After stopping to examine the bullet holes made when an onlooker decided to send the performer a message, we climbed onstage. Gazing out towards the main floor, it was easy to imagine Bat Masterson and Doc Holliday facing off over the faro table.

A mix of original props and movie props backstage

Backstage were new discoveries. Props, set pieces and random objects from long-forgotten performances still sat where they were left on that fateful night in 1889. Some of the bigger props stored underneath the stage looked like they would require very little work to be pressed back into service for another play.

Scattered backstage were additional artifacts from the town’s history, including various articles of clothing and even a horse-drawn hearse. A few more recent movie props were back there as well, including an ornate casket created for the movie Tombstone. Photos of past performers hung on the walls.

What lies at the bottom of the creaking wooden staircase?

While making our way down the wooden steps to the basement, I felt sort of like we were entering the inner sanctum. The ladies’ small bedrooms, which also served as cribs, lined the wall. Directly across from the cribs was the site of the famous eight-year poker game, abandoned the night of the flood. The tables were strewn with coins, cards and chips, giving the distinct impression that the players had left in a hurry. A small bar underneath the main stairs was ready to serve players whatever libations they might desire. At the far end of the room, a shorter staircase, now blocked off, led to the main floor.

All too soon, it was time to exit through the main gift shop. We spent roughly two hours inside, and easily could have spent two more. The Bird Cage Theater captivated our imaginations in a way that few tourist attractions have managed to do.

Tips for Parents

Downstairs felt like the inner sanctum

The Bird Cage Theater is a terrific stop for families of all ages. Several groups touring at the same time as we were had young children, and they all seemed fully engaged. The sense of history and urban exploration is powerful, and seemed to affect everyone in an almost visceral way.

Be prepared for questions. Many of the artifacts are exotic and eye-catching by today’s standards. The topic of prostitution is sensitively handled, and nothing inappropriate is visible. I heard more than one parent explaining the downstairs cribs as bedrooms for women who worked in the theater, which is certainly a truthful yet age-appropriate explanation.

Be receptive to your kids’ attention spans. While the theater is engaging, it is also overwhelming. Since you are free to come and go all day, it may be best for families with young children to explore one section at a time, taking a break to play outside in between.