Big Sur for Little Sirs and Ladies – North Bound

Genie Davis September 16, 2010 No Comments

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I’ve taken you on an excursion to the southern reaches of Big Sur California, with Ragged Point Resort as your base. There are other options for spending the night farther north, but its easy to stay where you are and take some wonderful excursions into Big Sur proper. 

Big Sur Lime Kilns State Park

Lime Lilns State Park

A great first stop: Lime Kilns State Park near Lucia. A very family friendly one mile round trip unpaved trail will lead you through pristine woods to the location of a quarried limestone operation. Limestone was broken down, or smelted in four large wooden kilns that still stand. The powdered lime created in those kilns was taken out into the ocean and shipped to San Francisco for use in cement making. As fascinating as these huge chambers are for kids of all ages now, they caused some destruction to the redwood trees in the area, which were chopped down for fuel when manufacturing was at its heyday. Luckily, the operation didn’t destroy the largest and most beautiful of the redwoods in this area, so today’s explorers can enjoy both manmade and natural attractions. Note – this trail is not stroller accessible; carrying small children is advisable; our son was two and a half when he walked it on his own. 

An even easier trail that is stroller and babe-in-arms friendly, and with spectacular views is found at the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park just up the road. Here a paved trail will take you three quarters of a mile through a short metal tunnel to grand vistas of sea, waterfall, and rock promontories. You’ll see more redwoods, stunning coastal images, and the only California waterfall – McWay Falls – that spills directly over one hundred feet – into the Pacific Ocean. This iconic postcard image is clearly visible from several easy overlooks. The short Waterfall trail is supplemented by another short trail, the Partington Cove. 

Seagull at Sand Dollar Beach Big Sur California

Seagull at Sand Dollar Beach Big Sur California

You’ll see the terrace of Waterfall House, all that remains of a once privately owned structure. You’ll also see a still-turning water wheel, and in the winter months you may get a glimpse of migrating whales. 

Another forty-five picturesque minutes of driving will take you to the turn off for Pfeiffer State Beach: rock arches dominate a long, sandy and windy beach, with several nicely separated coves. There’s a short, windy walk from the parking lot onto the sand, which offers fine stretches of hard packed sand for running, some small streams and rocky coves. Stay away from the rough surf itself here though, as rogue waves can find their way onto the shore. It’s a great picnic spot further up on the sand, and you can purchase the appropriate fixings or excellent sandwich creations at the Big Sur Deli just north of the Pfeiffer State Beach turn off. There are wonderful Italian sandwiches and salads including vegetarian options. You’ll also find some general store type supplies if you need them. 

Golden hour view from Ragged Point Big Sur California

Golden hour view from Ragged Point Big Sur California

For a different dining experience, visit Nepenthe restaurant: go at an off hour, when there isn’t a wait, or you’ll have hungry children, as peak hours offer half to full hour waits. An outdoor patio has splendid views and excellent family snacks to share such as the middle eastern plate of taboule, humus, and pita or the fruit and cheese platter. Full lunches and dinners are available too, and portions are generous enough to share. At twilight, an open air fire pit creates a cozy ambiance. Lucia Lodge, further south, also features a restaurant with an open deck area as well as indoor dining, and features seafood, and pasta dishes with homemade sauces. 

Continuing south again to return to Ragged Point, you’ll come to Sand Dollar Beach, with the longest sandy beach in the Big Sur area. You’ll find great beach combing here too with jade stones present on the soft sand. The .7 mile trail from the parking lot includes a set of stairs, but once down on the sand you can let the little ones run. Behind you, the Pacific Valley setting is verdant, and if you want to avoid the stairs, a simple bluff trail will let you admire the view. It’s a great spot for a sunset, although we try to return to Ragged Point for the sunset show which often includes applause from the viewers along the lookouts and on the grassy lawn.

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Genie Davis is a multi-published fiction author, screen and TV writer, and travel writer. If it was possible, she'd like to spend every day traveling. www.geniedavis.com

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