The Buckhorn and Texas Ranger Museum is three attractions in one

When Dad and I planned this summer’s road trip through the American Southwest, we created a loose itinerary based on major attractions. The Alamo is one the Old West’s most famous sites, so we planned a trip to San Antonio, Texas. When we got to San Antonio, we were happily surprised to discover a plethora of attractions within easy walking distance of the Alamo’s downtown location. One of the most interesting was the Buckhorn Saloon and Texas Ranger Museum.

About the Buckhorn

The Buckhorn Saloon still has its original furnishings

The Buckhorn is sort of three attractions in one. The Buckhorn Saloon, opened in 1881, has changed little since its inception. Most of the original furnishings remain, offering tourists a wonderful opportunity to enjoy a local brew at the same bar once frequented by Pancho Villa and Teddy Roosevelt. An attached café is open for lunch.

The Buckhorn Museum, located on the second floor, has its roots in the 19th century. Buckhorn Saloon founder Albert Friedrich accepted antlers and horns in lieu of payment for drinks, while his wife accepted rattlesnake rattles for use in her artwork. As the collection grew, the museum was born.

The Texas Ranger Museum is a new addition to the first floor. The museum houses hundreds of authentic artifacts related to the Rangers, but the most interesting section is the indoor recreation of turn-of-the-century San Antonio.

Our Experience

The scrimshaw horns were impressive

Dad and I arrived at the Buckhorn in mid-afternoon after a few hours at the Alamo. Although the place looked fascinating, I admit that I was partly motivated by the promise of cold air-conditioning. It was well over 100 degrees, and most of the Alamo exhibits are outside!

As of 2011, admission is $16 for adults and $12 for children. Your ticket includes both the Buckhorn Museum and the Texas Ranger Museum. There is no charge to look around the Saloon and Café. Check with the nearby tourist information center or any of several discount booths for a coupon worth $1 or $2 per person.

After obtaining our tickets, we went through a turnstile for the self-guided tour. Directional signs lead you through the two floors of exhibits, making it impossible to get lost. Upon entering the museum, we were immediately overwhelmed by the sheer amount of “stuff.” Antique mirrors, a vast quantity of antlers and a mind-boggling array of saddles were among the first exhibits.

Taxidermy

The taxidermy rooms feature animals taken by bow and arrow

As we continued our journey, it became clear that this is not the right place to visit if you are morally opposed to hunting. A huge portion of the Buckhorn Museum is dedicated to Bill Negley, the only man to have taken all of Africa’s “Big Five” with a bow and arrow. When we arrived, we had no idea what the Big Five might be, but we soon learned that it is a hunting term referring to the five most ferocious and difficult to kill African animals–lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard. Taxidermied specimens of these animals, along with dozens of others, fill massive rooms. Though I do not personally care for hunting, it was pretty interesting to imagine taking down these animals with only a bow and arrow. Mixed in among the animal specimens were various animal skulls, Native American artifacts and an impressive collection of weapons. This section of the museum reminded me of the German hunting club in the 1995 PC game Gabriel Knight 2: The Beast Within.

American Sideshows

Welcome to the American Sideshow

Continuing through the Alaska room with its endless mounted fish, polar bear and moose, we left the taxidermy behind. Next up were the newer exhibits based on the American Sideshow. Traditionally, sideshows were secondary acts presented alongside a traveling carnival. They were popularized in the mid-1800s and lasted through the early 1960s. Changing public tastes and increasing regulations largely killed the traditional sideshow. In the late 20th century, however, a new breed of sideshow emerged–self-proclaimed “freaks” performing bizarre and dangerous feats for public entertainment. The new sideshows are not necessarily connected to carnivals, but may be feature acts in their own right.

Although relatively small, the Buckhorn exhibit was impressive. Through the magic of modern technology, both P.T. Barnum and Buffalo Bill Cody welcomed us to their shows. Helpful informational signs provided a brief history of both men’s illustrious careers. A combination of old posters and actual exhibits introduced us to some of the most famous sideshow exhibits including Elmer McCurdy, the executed outlaw whose corpse was displayed in carnivals and dark rides until 1977, and the FeeJee Mermaid, possibly the most famous sideshow hoax ever.

Carnival of Curiosities

We had fun posing in impossible positions

Leaving Barnum and Cody behind, we came upon a recreated mystery spot called the Carnival of Curiosities. Mystery spots were all the rage during the early days of automobile travel, but only a few remain today. Mystery spots are always housed in strange little cabins that are slightly tilted. The back story, explained at the beginning of the attraction, always has something to do with a mudslide or other natural phenomenon, thereby explaining the tilt. Inside the shack, strange things happen–water travels uphill, people lean or sway in strange directions, and impossible gravity effects are achieved. Some spots claim a paranormal explanation, usually based on ley lines or vortexes, while others leave it to the tourists to explain.

The Buckhorn recreation followed all the traditional mystery spot rules. The highly entertaining and interactive exhibit gave us the chance to pose in impossible positions, play in an eerie mine and scratch our heads at all sorts of gravity-defying effects. Outside the shack was a collection of optical illusions, complete with explanations.

Texas Ranger Museum

The impressive exhibits depict turn-of-the-century San Antonio

Back on the first floor, it was time for the Texas Ranger Museum. The first couple of rooms are packed with paintings, informational signs and life-size figures depicting the history of the Texas Rangers. Although the information was quite interesting, we were starting to feel overwhelmed. The next room, though, was literally jaw-dropping.

As we went through the doorway, we found ourselves in late-1800s San Antonio. The sheriff’s office, feed lot, jail, bank, telegraph office and a variety of shops were among the highlights. Wanted posters depicting famous outlaws hung on the walls, and most of the buildings were open for perusal. Around the corner, we found ourselves staring at the Bonnie and Clyde car, followed by an extensive display on outlaws through the ages.

Tips for Parents

The collection of Texas Ranger artifacts is huge

The Buckhorn complex is much bigger than we anticipated. Expecting to kill an hour or so, we were inside for better than three hours. The entire museum is surprisingly interactive. Even the oldest hunting section offers a series of fascinating videos, and the newer exhibits provide hands-on entertainment.

It is impossible to leave without walking through the remainder of the museum, making it difficult to come and go. Plan to visit when you have plenty of time to spend. Restrooms are available inside. There are benches scattered throughout, providing the chance to sit down and take a break.

With so much to look at and interact with, the Buckhorn is a great choice for families. Follow your kids’ lead and don’t expect them to fully absorb everything. With a bit of patience and a relaxed attitude, the Buckhorn could easily fill an entire afternoon. Although the main path utilizes the grand staircase, an elevator is available, making the museum fully wheelchair-accessible.

Downtown San Antonio grew up around the Alamo

In virtually every way, San Antonio, Texas is a modern big city. One of the most populous and fastest growing cities in the nation, San Antonio offers medical research facilities, Fortune 500 companies, dozens of schools and colleges, and a mind-boggling array of tourist spots. Looking out over San Antonio’s downtown skyline, it is amazing to realize that the city was literally built around a single historic structure.

The Alamo

The current Alamo site is just a fraction of the original

Settled by the Spanish in 1716, San Antonio originally consisted primarily of a series of missions protected by a fortified base called a presidio. Mission San Antonio de Valero was the first Spanish mission in San Antonio, founded in 1718 along the San Antonio River. The mission was secularized and then abandoned in the 1790s. The Mexican War of Independence gave control of Texas to Mexico, and Mexican forces occupied the mission from the early 1800s until the Texas Revolution. It is believed that the Mexican army changed the mission’s name to Alamo.

Texas Revolution

The original mission chapel

Under Mexican rule, Texas became part of a new state, Coahuila y Tejas, whose capital was hundreds of miles away. Sparsely populated and in need of settlers, Texas extended an open invitation to United States citizens who wanted to start a new life. Americans responded in a big way, and “Gone to Texas” signs appeared on homes and businesses throughout the United States.

Soon settlers from the United States vastly outnumbered Mexican-born citizens. Feeling increasingly isolated and disillusioned, Texas residents wanted to split from Coahuila to become a separate Mexican state. When Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna became president of Mexico in 1833, however, he implemented a number of policies that were unacceptable to Texas. Increasingly, residents desired all-out revolution and independence from Mexico.

In 1835, Santa Anna issued a decree that all state militias should be dissolved. He insisted that the militia in Gonzales, Texas return a cannon previously given to them by Mexico in 1831. Defiantly, the militia responded to Santa Anna’s request: “Come and take it.” Mexican troops were dispatched to retrieve the cannon, but Texas forces were ready for them. The Battle of Gonzales, fought on October 2, 1835, was the first skirmish of the Texas Revolution.

Battle of the Alamo

The real life Davy Crockett

By January 1836, Texas forces had established a small garrison of less than 100 men at the Alamo. On January 14, acting Alamo commander Colonel James C. Neill requested assistance from Sam Houston, unofficial head of the entire Texas army. Lacking the resources to replenish the garrison, Houston sent Colonel James Bowie (who popularized the Bowie knife) with a small force to salvage artillery from the Alamo and close it down. However, Neill convinced Bowie that the Alamo’s strategic location made defending it crucial. On Bowie’s request, a handful of additional men were dispatched to the garrison, including David Crockett (who spawned the legend of Davy Crockett).

Soon an army of 1500 Mexican soldiers took the nearby town of Bexar and set their sights on the Alamo. Though they knew they were outnumbered and likely to die, the men of the Alamo garrison refused to surrender. Legend has it that William Travis, who took command when Neill departed in search of reinforcements, drew a line in the sand. He asked all who were willing to die for the cause to cross the line. All but one did so, most with little hesitation.

The Battle of San Jacinto won the Texas Revolution

Skirmishes erupted for 12 days, beginning on February 23. On March 6, the Mexican army launched a full assault on the Alamo. The garrison repelled two attacks, but the third breached the defenses. By 6:30 a.m. the battle was over. A few women and children who had taken refuge in the Alamo and a slave man named Joe were allowed to depart. Everyone else was killed.

Three weeks later, a portion of the Texas army was forced to surrender during the Goliad Campaign. On Palm Sunday, March 27, under direct orders from Santa Anna, the prisoners of war were murdered by Mexican forces in what has been termed the Goliad Massacre.

The defeat at the Alamo and the massacre at Goliad marked a turning point in the Texas Revolution. On April 21, despite being outnumbered, Texas troops under the command of Sam Houston used the element of surprise for a decisive victory at the Battle of San Jacinto. Soldiers shouted “Remember the Alamo!” and “Remember Goliad!” as they dove into the melee. After just 18 minutes, it was over. Santa Anna was captured, and Sam Houston agreed to save his life in exchange for Texas independence.

The Alamo Today

These walls are part of the original Alamo complex

The modern city of San Antonio literally grew up around the Alamo. Today, the historic mission is in the center of downtown, across the street from the Ripley’s Believe It or Not museums. Much of the original complex no longer exists, but visitors can tour the chapel, barracks building and grounds. Across the street, beside the museums, a series of low walls serve as benches for tired sightseers. Take a close look at the signs around the walls. These are actually pieces of the original Alamo complex.

Touring the Alamo

The plaza outside is filled with vendors and tourists

Inside the Alamo chapel, docents ask visitors to respect their environment as a sacred space. Out front, however, vendors hawk snacks and audio tours while photographers take advantage of the entry queue to snap the obligatory “I went to the Alamo” pictures, conveniently available for sale.

There was already a long line by the time Dad and I arrived at roughly 10:30 a.m. Free, or even close, parking is nearly impossible to obtain, so we settled on a $10 lot a few blocks away. We joined the snaking line, already extending to the chapel’s corner. The line moved relatively quickly, and we were inside by 11:00. There is no admission fee, but we decided to rent the audio tour. At a cost of $6 per person (2011 pricing), we felt that the historical descriptions were well worth the money.

Though photography is prohibited in the chapel, we were allowed to snap one for this article

It was a smart decision. We would have been lost without the tour. There are informational signs in most spots, but it can be difficult to get close enough to read them in the crowded building. With the tour, we were able to step back from each display and listen to the narration, and then step forward for a quick look.

Though the chapel building was packed with tourists, the much larger grounds area had plenty of room for everyone to spread out. The beautifully manicured grounds, with restrooms and vending machines at the back, provided a shady oasis to rest and relax. Narrated presentations are offered throughout the day.

The former barracks is now a museum filled with artifacts. A short film presentation, offered multiple times throughout the day, tells the story of the Alamo in a succinct, easy to follow way. Docents are on hand to share information or answer questions, and the audio tour continues throughout the building.

Tips for Parents

Docent presentations are offered throughout the day

Don’t be put off by the chaotic scene and long lines in the entrance plaza. Once you make it through the chapel doors, you will enter a world where history is respected and celebrated. The Alamo is a critical part of American history, and deserves to be shared with the next generation.

There were a lot of families with small children on the day we visited, and the kids seemed absolutely enraptured. The Alamo offers a lot to see and do, providing an educational and entertaining experience for all ages.

With so much to absorb, though, take full advantage of the outdoor areas. There is plenty of space to sprawl out and relax or run and play. Taking frequent breaks from the history overload can keep everyone refreshed and recharged. Keep your family hydrated as well. It was extremely hot and dry on the day we visited, and many people looked close to collapse. Carry a water bottle to refill at the fountains, or purchase cold beverages at the vending machines. Pack a few snacks as well, as you are likely to spend longer than you anticipate.

San Antonio, TX

On our recent trip to Austin Texas, one of the must-sees on my list was San Antonio.  I figured my last vacation to the city didn’t count as I was only three years old at the time!  I have pictures of myself running around the Alamo, chasing birds and felt it would be kind of cool to see my three-year old running around doing the same thing.  So, on the fourth day of our visit to Texas my little family and my mother-in-law hopped in the car and made the hour and half drive to visit historic San Antonio.  

The first thing we found upon arriving at the city was that we were once again faced with a parking situation, (see the article Downtown Austin and the Children’s Museum).  Just like in Austin, we had to either park in one of the very limited spots along the street or pay to park in a lot or garage.  We ended up parking in a large lot (it was only $5 so that wasn’t bad) about a block from the Alamo.  I strapped our three-month old into her front pack, plopped my son into a borrowed stroller and off we went!  

The River Walk in San Antonio, TX.

As it was already after twelve o’clock by the time we arrived, we decided to head straight for the River Walk (about 3 ½ blocks from our parking lot), to eat before checking out the Alamo.  I had a few limited memories of my last visit to the Alamo, but I had absolutely none of the River Walk and I was taken off guard by just how beautiful it was!  To access it from the street, we had to head down two flights of stairs before emerging onto the scene below.  There we saw the San Antonio River winding along serenely between the shops, hotels, and restaurants that line its rock-walled banks.  Stone bridges arched over the water at intervals allowing pedestrian crossing from one side to the other while long, flat tour boats drifted past on the river below.  Large trees provided both ambiance and shade as they hung over the water and walkways along side it.  

Myself, my husband, son, daughter, and mother-in-law at the River Walk in San Antonio, TX

We walked along the river a short ways before picking a small Mexican restaurant for lunch and seating ourselves at a table next to the river.  As we ate, our son pointed out a Mariachi group strolling down the walkway.  He’s been quite taken with that style of music ever since attending a wedding in Acapulco more than a year ago and was excited to see that they were coming our way.  They stop and play only when someone “hires” them and fortunately, a table next to ours decided that they’d like to be serenaded.  This group had only string instruments with them but they were absolutely wonderful!  Our son had a blast dancing next to the table while they played their two songs before moving on.  

When we’d finished our lunch, we went out to explore the rest of the River Walk.  After passing a number of quaint restaurants and river-front hotels, we decided to cross a bridge to the other side.  There we found the ticket booth for the boat rides.  Although we were very tempted to take one,  (adult tickets were $8.25 and child tickets ages 1-5 were only $2), we weren’t all that sure that our three-year old would sit still during the 35 minute ride.  

Tour boat at the River Walk. Photo courtesy of riosanantonio.com.

Even though he loved pointing out every single boat that floated past us (and there had to be a million of them), we weren’t sure that we were up to trying one ourselves.  Instead we continued on down the walkway until we came to a series of small shops selling everything from candy and souvenirs to clothing and sunglasses.  We enjoyed browsing for a while then decided it was time to head back up to the street and the Alamo. 

The Alamo, San Antonio, TX.

We’d been warned before visiting the Alamo that it was “a lot smaller than it looks.”  This was true in some ways but not in others.  The front of the Alamo itself sits in a short plaza just off the street, on the other side of which are a number of restaurants, museums, and hotels.  Once you step inside the Alamo Shrine or walk through the gates on either side of it though, the grounds are actually fairly extensive.  They’re also very beautiful.  Green grass covers the lawns and large draping trees hang over the sidewalks and benches set around them.  At the very back of the property is a kind of “rest area” with a picnic table, benches, vending machines, and the bathrooms.  It’s a great place to sit and enjoy the view of the grounds.  We walked the outside perimeter of the Alamo property (while our son chased the birds), before heading into the buildings.  A large gift shop and museum sits just next to the Alamo Shrine and we walked through there first then headed over to the shrine itself.  There are no pictures allowed inside this building or inside the Long Barracks, so be warned!  We saw a curator reprimand a tourist from all the way across the room for taking a picture of one of the displays!  

Our son chasing the birds in the "rest area" at the Alamo.

While our son did a great job at not touching anything he wasn’t supposed to, the Alamo didn’t have anything that was particularly interesting to a three-year old.  My husband, my mother-in-law, and I enjoyed the buildings and history very much but our son had a lot more fun walking around the grounds and laughing at the birds.  He also liked looking at some of the swords and guns in the display cases, but my husband had to carry him so he could be up high enough to see.  He did like the gift shop as well though since a number of the little Texas related novelties and Alamo toys they had were more at his eye level.  

I felt our entire San Antonio experience was very family friendly.  Though we did have to park in a paid lot, it wasn’t far from either of our destinations and really our son would have done fine even without a stroller.  All of the restaurants along the River Walk had outside seating which was perfect because it gave our son something to look at and talk about while we waited for our food and ate lunch.  There were no lines to wait in or buses to take so the entire day was fairly relaxing and very enjoyable.  We’re looking forward to taking our kids back and doing it all again when our daughter is old enough to enjoy it too!