The New Orleans Museum District was revitalized in recent years

The New Orleans Museum District has undergone extensive revitalization in recent years, after sinking into neglect toward the end of the 20th century. Well-connected to the rest of the city via the St. Charles streetcar line, the area now contains entirely refurbished loft apartments and interesting restaurants. But the museums remain the central attractions. Anchored by the National World War II Museum, the district is also home to several smaller attractions. Dad and I visited the Louisiana Civil War Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art on our New Orleans Mardi Gras 2011 trip.

Louisiana Civil War Museum

The Civil War Museum opened in 1891

The oldest museum in Louisiana and one of the largest collections of Confederate artifacts, the Louisiana Civil War Museum opened in 1891. The museum building, known as Confederate Memorial Hall, was actually built specifically to house this collection and has never held anything else.

Though photography is not permitted, we were allowed to snap one quick photo for the article

The museum is the absolute antithesis of anything seen today, giving it a quaint and irresistible charm. The old wooden floors creak and groan with every step. The artifacts are displayed in a series of glass cases with old-fashioned, and in some cases hand-written, descriptive labels. The building smells old and slightly musty.

In order to fully appreciate the museum, it is necessary to understand how it came to be. The War Between the States came to an end in 1865. In the 1880s, when the museum was conceptualized, those who survived the war wanted a place to protect and honor their treasured mementos. Meanwhile, the families of those who gave their lives in the war wanted to pay tribute to their fallen loved ones. All parties agreed that it was important to provide a spot for future generations to learn the lessons of the Civil War. For a full history of this unique museum, visit the official website.

Unlike most modern museums, whose artifacts are often donated by people several times removed from their origins, the collection at the Louisiana Civil War Museum is extremely personal. Take the time to read some of the handwritten tags and labels. You’ll find uniforms donated by widows, rifles donated by sons, and letters contributed by the soldiers who wrote them. This fact, combined with the relatively small space and the age of the building, elicits a surprisingly emotional response in many visitors.

Despite its lack of high-tech thrills, the museum is well worth a visit, even for those with small children. The admission fee is nominal, and all proceeds go directly toward the museum’s upkeep and preservation. The sheer sense of history is simply awe-inspiring.

Ogden Museum of Southern Art

Ogden houses the largest collection of Southern art in the world

Housing the largest collection of Southern art in the world, the Ogden Museum of Southern Art opened next door to Confederate Memorial Hall in 2003. The shiny, modern five-story building creates a visually arresting juxtaposition of old and new that is representative of New Orleans as a whole.

Since its inception, Ogden has been known for its “Ogden After Hours” parties in which museum members and the general public alike are invited to listen to local musicians while enjoying the galleries. The museum was spared from significant damage in Hurricane Katrina, and it reopened with an After Hours party on October 27, 2005. Hoping to draw 100 guests, the party actually drew more than 600, taking its place as one of the biggest post-Katrina cultural events to that date.

The open floor plan showcases the art

Although the museum’s collection is massive, a wide-open floor plan prevents it from feeling overwhelming. Exhibits range from paintings to sculptures to photographs. The Ogden regularly debuts new and touring exhibits, offering something new almost every time you visit.

Dad and I attended one of the legendary After Hours parties, featuring noted New Orleans jazz guitarist Brian Seeger. Admission is only $10 (2011 pricing) and the parties take place every Thursday evening from 6 to 8 p.m. This allows parents to expose kids to the local music scene without keeping them out too late.

Children's activities are offered at every party

The parties are intentionally family-friendly, with a different craft activity for kids offered in the museum each week. Chairs are set up in front of the stage, but it is easy to hear the music throughout the galleries. After the performance, the musical guest is interviewed by a local music writer. This is a great chance to learn more about the musician, and the interviews are recorded for the museum archives.

It is possible to see the highlights of Ogden during the two-hour party, though art buffs may want to return for a closer look. The dress code is casual, but Dad and I felt slightly underdressed in our regular tourist clothes. If you plan to attend the party, you may want to freshen up and change into a slightly dressier shirt. Jeans are fine. A small selection of hors d’oeuvres is available for sale, and the full-service O Bar is open for business.

The Wax Museum explores the legend of Marie Laveau

It would be easy to spend an entire vacation in New Orleans’ French Quarter just shopping, eating and catching the street performers. Bigger attractions like the Audubon Aquarium and Insectarium might grab your attention, or you might wander to the outskirts of the Quarter to visit St. Louis Cemetery Number One.

However, no trip to New Orleans would be complete without stopping by at least one or two of the French Quarter’s smaller attractions. Inexpensive, uncrowded and exceptionally friendly, these attractions are great places to decompress and learn a little more of New Orleans’ unique culture. On our Mardi Gras 2011 visit, Dad and I took in the Beauregard-Keyes House, the Historical Wax Museum and the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum.

Beauregard-Keyes House

The Beauregard-Keyes House is reputedly haunted

While the majority of buildings in the French Quarter date to the 1800s, most have been modernized–cut up into apartments and shops with air-conditioning, cable and other modern amenities. The Beauregard-Keyes House allows visitors to see how wealthy New Orleanians lived in the early 1800s. The house was built in 1826 and is named for its two most famous residents. Confederate General P.T. Beauregard occupied the home from 1866-1868, while novelist Frances Parkinson Keyes lived there from 1944 until her death in 1970. The home is mostly decorated in 1800s style, though Keyes touches are evident throughout, particularly in the room that she used as a bedroom in later life.

Our guide at the Beauregard-Keyes House was incredibly welcoming

The tour guide lives on the property and there is a wealth of fascinating information about both the home and the city as a whole. Our group consisted of a middle-aged woman, Dad and me. We sat with the guide for quite awhile before the official tour began, just sharing Hurricane Katrina stories and chatting about various topics. At the end of the tour, our guide gave everyone a strand of Mardi Gras beads. It’s a fun takeaway that is especially great for children.

The house is located at 1113 Chartres Street, across from the Old Ursulines Convent (the oldest building in the Mississippi Valley, also open for public tours). As of 2011, admission is $10 for adults, $9 for students and seniors, and $4 for kids aged 6-12. Children under 6 are free. Tours are conducted every hour on the hour every day except Sunday. The house is a featured stop on many ghost tours, but the current guide claims that he has never experienced anything unusual.

Historical Wax Museum

The wax museum marks major events in New Orleans' history

The Historical Wax Museum of New Orleans is, in our opinion, one of the best places to get a clear and concise history of the city. Opened in 1963, the museum’s 154 wax figures detail the story of New Orleans from its early days through the modern era. The Battle of New Orleans, the mystery of voodoo queen Marie Laveau and even the Storyville adult district and its effects on the invention of New Orleans jazz are covered in great detail. Yet the displays stay away from the tawdry or salacious, focusing instead on the historical facts. There is a traditional Haunted Dungeon at the end, which features horror movie villains, but it can easily be bypassed if desired.

The museum is located at 947 Conti in the Upper Quarter. As of 2011, it is open only Mondays, Fridays and Saturdays. Admission is $7 for adults, $6.25 for seniors and $6 for kids aged 4 through 17. Children under 4 are free.

New Orleans Pharmacy Museum

The New Orleans Pharmacy Museum is filled with interesting artifacts

In 1822, Louis J. Dufilho, Jr. purchased land at 514/516 Chartres Street. He constructed a modest home and opened an apothecary shop downstairs in 1823.  Significant improvements were made on the house in 1837. The building was sold several times over the years and fell into neglect by 1937. It was purchased by then-mayor Maestri and donated to the city. The Pharmacy Museum opened in 1950.

Today the building is filled with artifacts dedicated to the practice of medicine and pharmacology in 1800s New Orleans.  A self-guided tour pamphlet contains a great deal of information, and the exhibits are well-labeled. Although the museum is traditional rather than high-tech or interactive, most kids seem fascinated by it. Be prepared for questions, as many of the instruments are eye-catching and exotic by modern standards.

As of 2011, the museum is open limited hours Tuesday through Saturday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and students, and free for children under age 6.

Jackson Square is a hub of life in the French Quarter

Jackson Square is the heart of New Orleans’ French Quarter in Louisiana. Overlooking the Mississippi River, Jackson Square has been a free speech zone and hub of activity since the city’s earliest days. Today the Square is filled nearly 24 hours a day with a mix of tarot readers, visual artists, mimes, musicians, tourists and homeless young adults, all mingling and interacting in ways that are nearly unheard of in other cities.

While it would be easy to simply get caught up in the rhythms of life in the Square, try not to miss the Louisiana State Museums that ring the Square, as well as the St. Louis Cathedral. All are well worth a visit by tourists and locals alike.

Getting Your Bearings

St. Louis Cathedral is flanked by two Louisiana State Museums

An imposing building that faces the Chartres Street pedestrian plaza in Jackson Square, St. Louis Cathedral is hard to miss. The cathedral is flanked by two buildings that are only slightly less impressive–the Cabildo and the Presbytere. On the right as you face the cathedral, the Cabildo was the seat of Spanish government in New Orleans. The current structure was built after the Great Fire of 1788 destroyed the original. To the left of the cathedral, the Presbytere was built as a clergy residence, though it was never used for that purpose. It was built in 1791 to match the Cabildo, and the second floor completed in 1813. Both buildings were used for governmental purposes before becoming part of the Louisiana State Museum in 1911.

The oldest continuously rented apartments in the United States

The massive red brick buildings along the St. Peter and St. Ann sides of Jackson Square are the Pontalba Buildings. Built as townhomes by Baroness Micaela Almonester de Pontalba in the 1840s, the apartments upstairs are still in use today. The first floor is rented to a variety of restaurants and shops. One townhome on the St. Ann side is maintained as it would have been in 1850 and serves as the Louisiana State Museum’s 1850 House.

Presbytere

Combination tickets for the three Louisiana State Museum buildings are available at any of the three properties. As of 2011, combo tickets are $12 for adults and $9.60 for students, seniors and military members. Children under age 12 are free.

Watch news footage of Katrina or read a moment by moment timeline

You might want to begin your Jackson Square tour at the Presbytere. “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond” is a fantastic, though heartbreaking, look at life before, during and after the historic destruction of Hurricane Katrina. The exhibit uses a variety of artifacts and techniques to make the story accessible for people of all ages and interests. A timeline spells out the exact sequence of events, while authentic news footage from New Orleans covers the evacuation, the warnings and the subsequent landfall.

Learn to read an emergency building marking

Sit in a small room with wind blowing as you watch actual rare footage of the storm’s fury. View Fats Domino’s piano, discovered in the remains of his 9th Ward home, and the axes used by residents to chop their way onto rooftops. Pick up a telephone to hear individual citizens tell their stories, or learn exactly what the markings left on homes by emergency workers actually meant. A film at the end wraps up the entire story but ends with a message of hope and inspiration.

St. Louis Cathedral

The magnificent St. Louis Cathedral is a minor basilica

St. Louis Cathedral is open to the public during the day whenever there are no services, weddings or special events taking place. Built in 1850, the current cathedral is the third church building on the site. The first, a wooden structure finished in 1727, burned in the Great Fire of 1788. A new building was begun in 1789 and completed in 1794. It was to be enlarged for the growing community in 1849, but structural damage forced the demolition of virtually the entire building. Nonetheless, St. Louis Cathedral is distinguished as the oldest continuously operating Roman Catholic cathedral in the United States.

Pope Paul VI designated St. Louis Cathedral a minor basilica in 1964, and Pope John Paul II visited in 1987. The cathedral’s soaring ceilings and elegant stained glass make it a favorite for religious pilgrims and photographers alike. Donations are accepted but are not required.

Take a quick stroll down Pere Antoine Alley to the back of the cathedral, which faces Royal Street. The statue of Jesus was once flanked by two massive live oak trees. Hurricane Katrina took down the trees, snapping off the forefinger of one hand and the thumb of the other in the process. Although both pieces were discovered during subsequent cleanup, the archdiocese decided not to repair the statue yet. It is said that the Church will repair the statue once the city is made whole, i.e. fully recovered from the storm.

Cabildo

The Cabildo houses priceless artifacts from throughout New Orleans' history

A prominent player in New Orleans politics from the late 1700s through the beginning of the 20th century, today the Cabildo houses an extensive collection of historic artifacts. Informational signs tell the story of the various peoples that have called New Orleans home, and explain some of the city’s more colorful traditions.

The exhibits are much lower-tech and less interactive than those in the Presbytere, relying mostly on written information. If your kids are small, you may want to scan the signage and sum things up for them, rather than expecting the museum to keep them engaged. There is a great deal to learn that can enhance your visit, so plan to spend at least an hour or so. If there is a history buff in your family, it is easy to get wrapped up for half a day.

1850 House

Marvel at the luxury of the "middle class" 1850 House

Stop by the 1850 House, roughly midway down the Pontalba Building on the St. Ann side of Jackson Square. The self-guided tour takes less than an hour to complete, and provides an eye-opening look at the luxuries associated with “middle class” life in one of the most prosperous antebellum cities. Be sure to visit the slave quarters out back for a reminder that not everyone enjoyed that level of luxury. Both kids and adults seem to enjoy the artifacts, decorations and other details. Note that there is no elevator and the stairs are fairly steep.

The New Orleans Museum of Art is in City Park

Founded as the Delgado Museum of Art in 1911, the New Orleans Museum of Art is one of several attractions in New Orleans’ City Park. Although the park took heavy damage in 2005’s Hurricane Katrina, the elevated museum suffered only basement flooding and most of the collection was undamaged. The museum features over 40,000 pieces of art as well as a five-acre sculpture garden. Dad and I visited during the museum’s 100th anniversary celebration in 2011.

Visiting the New Orleans Museum of Art

The Grand Staircase is truly stunning

As of 2011, admission to the museum is $10 for adults and $6 for children aged 7 to 17. Seniors, military members and students with ID pay $8, while children 6 and under are free. The sculpture garden is free to all except for designated special events. Every Wednesday is Free Day, on which everyone is invited to visit the museum at no charge. Free parking is readily available in a massive lot in front of the museum as well as throughout City Park. The museum is open 10 to 5 Tuesday through Sunday.

Friday evenings from 5 to 9, the museum hosts a special collection of programming called “Where Y’Art?” Children’s activities, music concerts and guest speakers are among the available options. Check the museum website for details.

Our Experience

The galleries were surprisingly uncrowded, even on Free Wednesday

We visited on a Free Wednesday, expecting the museum to be packed. While there were a number of other visitors, they were spread fairly evenly throughout the building. We never felt cramped or had any difficulty examining things in depth.

We arrived around 11 a.m. and stayed until closing. It would be possible to take a quick tour in a few hours, but art buffs should plan to spend the day. The collection runs the gamut from prehistory through today in a variety of media. You will find works by household names such as Picasso and Degas alongside those of lesser-known, but no less talented, local artists.

We were surprised to see this sculpture when the elevator doors opened

Due to arthritis, Dad generally prefers to take the elevator rather than the stairs. Particularly in older buildings, we often find the elevator tucked into a corner, away from the main action. Imagine our surprise when we reached the second floor only to have the elevator doors open directly in front of a massive Asian sculpture!

The first-floor Courtyard Café is run by the legendary Brennan family, chef-owners of such noted New Orleans spots as Brennan’s and Commander’s Palace. The counter-service food is homemade using fresh, locally sourced ingredients, and is surprisingly inexpensive. This is a wonderful way to introduce your kids to fine dining without making them sit through a long, formal meal.

Educational Programs

Free children’s activities are frequently offered at the museum. For kids with a deeper interest in art, the museum sponsors a variety of day camps and special events. New Orleans school children generally visit the museum in the spring as an educational field trip. Contact the museum to find out what is going on during your stay.

Sculpture Garden

The Sculpture Garden is elegant but unpretentious

The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden features over 60 sculptures set along winding footpaths and City Park’s noted waterways. We actually saw the bulk of the Sculpture Garden during our cruise on NOLA Gondola, but all sculptures are accessible by foot as well. A small donation is requested, but not required, for the self-guided tour map or audio tour. Yoga and Pilates classes are taught in the garden on Saturdays for a nominal charge.

Special Exhibits

A large gallery on the first floor is set aside for temporary exhibits. During our visit, the work of 17th century Zen Master Hakuin was featured. His calligraphy used a fascinating blend of humor and philosophy to examine the human condition. A documentary at the beginning of the exhibit explained a bit about Hakuin’s life and times, setting the stage for his work.

That exhibit has since closed, and the space is currently used for “Ancestors of Congo Square,” a celebration of African art that runs through mid-July 2011. It is not yet known what will replace that exhibit.

Tips for Parents

The expansive galleries can be disorienting

The New Orleans Museum of Art is much bigger than it appears. It is easy to get lost in the winding galleries, so keep a close eye on your kids. City Park offers wonderful opportunities to rest in the shade or run and play, so schedule frequent breaks from the museum. Although the extensive collection is truly amazing, the sheer quantity of art can become overwhelming.

Be sure to stop by the first-floor gift shop. Packed with souvenirs for all ages, including a massive collection of art books, the gift shop is worth a visit even if you do not plan to buy anything.

Take the time to read some of the historic posters

Opened in 2000, New Orleans’ D-Day Museum was officially designated the National World War II Museum by Congress in 2003. A massive recent expansion brought the size of the museum to over 70,000 square feet, more than triple the size of the Smithsonian Institute’s National Museum of American History. Although the official recommendation is to allow 3 hours, we found that it took a good day and a half to see everything in detail.

Visiting the Museum

The National World War II Museum is in the heart of New Orleans' Museum District

The National World War II Museum is on Andrew Higgins Drive in New Orleans’ revitalized Museum District. The Ogden Museum of Southern Art and the historic Civil War Museum are just a block away. Paid parking is readily available around the museum.

As of 2011, exhibit admission is $18 for adults, $14 for seniors and $9 for children aged 5 to 12. Students and military members with photo identification also pay $9. Uniformed military, World War II veterans and children under age 5 are free. Add Beyond All Boundaries, a high-tech 4-D film narrated by Tom Hanks, for a nominal fee. Purchase a second day’s admission for just $5 for adults or $4 for seniors and children.

Our Experience

John Besh's American Sector is well worth the money

The museum is open daily from 9 to 5. We stopped by the Civil War Museum first, arriving at the World War II Museum around 11 a.m. We selected tickets for the 4 p.m. showing of Beyond All Boundaries, then went in search of lunch. The soda shop and café inside the main building was closed for renovation, so we went across the street to American Sector, a highly themed restaurant owned by celebrity chef John Besh that focuses on modern updates of classic American dishes.

The food was excellent and portions easily large enough to share. Although pricier than a typical museum café, the cost was not overwhelming. Casual dress is acceptable. If you enjoy musical theater, check into the dinner and a show package. On certain evenings, you can enjoy dinner at American Sector followed by a high-energy rendition of a live radio show circa 1945.

Toy soldiers demonstrate just how outmatched the United States really was

With full bellies, we returned to the museum. The first floor is an open exhibit area featuring tanks, planes and other equipment from World War II. Special presentations are frequently held here. The second and third floors consist of a series of galleries that tell the story of the United States’ entrance into World War II, the battles we faced and our ultimate victory against all odds.

Don’t miss the special exhibit gallery on the second floor opposite the main galleries. On our visit, the special exhibit was on Jews in World War II. You will need to take a different elevator or staircase to access this gallery, so take a peek at your museum map for directions.

We actually ran out of time to explore the full museum together, so we decided to split up. I went to the third floor while Dad went across the street to the Solomon Victory Theater to see Beyond All Boundaries. He was so impressed that he insisted on taking me to see the movie a few days later.

Beyond All Boundaries

Try not to miss the epic Beyond All Boundaries

The experience begins in a small preshow theater. Arrive early if you want to sit down, as the preshow theater has only a few bench seats. During the seven-minute preshow, Tom Hanks gives a brief overview of what was happening around the world in the months leading up to Pearl Harbor. Period photos punctuate the narrative, creating a gripping experience that sets the stage.

The main theater has 250 comfortable movie theater-style seats. A 1930s-style radio sits alone on the stage. The show begins as the radio begins broadcasting a football game. The game is soon interrupted as the red velvet curtain rises to reveal three large screens broadcasting news of the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Throughout the 39-minute film you are transported into the middle of some of the most important events of World War II. You will find yourself behind the walls at a concentration camp, in the middle of a tank battle, and even caught in the blast of the atomic bomb at Hiroshima. Moving, shaking seats and in-theater effects dramatically enhance the experience.

Parental guidance is recommended. We suggest that you preview the film before taking any child under age 8, or older children with particular fears. There were several kids in the audiences at both our showings, and everyone seemed fascinated rather than afraid. However, we did not see any very small kids. If you have any doubts, sit at the end of a row and be prepared to leave if necessary.

Tips for Parents

Some of the images are rather graphic, but sensitively handled

The museum provides a highly interactive and very realistic depiction of World War II. Several film clips and photos are extremely graphic, though sensitively handled. These items are blocked off by curtains or walls, allowing more sensitive members of the family to bypass them. Keep a close eye on your kids and pay attention to signage if you want to bypass the more graphic displays. The rest of the museum is both educational and entertaining for visitors of all ages.

You are free to come and go from the museum at your leisure, so plan for occasional breaks. Sit down outside in the shade or let the kids run around on the lawn of the Victory Theater. Make time to stop by both gift shops as well, where souvenirs run the gamut from inexpensive toys to pricey collectibles. If at all possible, plan to break your visit into two days. The massive museum continues to expand, and it is nearly impossible for adults to see everything in one day. With kids, it could easily start to feel overwhelming.

The Audubon Insectarium is the newest addition to the Audubon Nature Institute

The Audubon Nature Institute has been a part of the New Orleans family since 1914, when the Audubon Commission was established by state law. The Commission’s first project was the development of Audubon Park, an urban green space on the site of the United States’ first commercial sugar plantation. The park, originally named Upper City Park, was built by the City of New Orleans for the 1884 World’s Industrial Centennial and Cotton Exposition. The Audubon Commission added a flight cage in 1916, and by 1929 the park was home to a full zoo.

Audubon continued to grow and expand, adding facilities across the city. Today Audubon owns 10 parks and attractions in New Orleans. The newest addition is Audubon Insectarium, which opened in 2008. Dad and I had our first chance to visit on a recent trip to New Orleans.

Visiting the Museum

The Insectarium is in the old U.S. Custom House

The Audubon Insectarium is on Canal Street in New Orleans’ Central Business District (CBD). Parking is available in paid lots nearby, some of which offer a discount with paid museum admission. If you are staying in the French Quarter or along one of the streetcar lines, however, we strongly suggest walking or taking public transportation. Traffic ranges from difficult to horrific depending on the day of the week and time of day, while parking is notoriously expensive.

The Insectarium is in the old U.S. Custom House, making it the only Audubon facility that requires guests to go through a metal detector. Although the process is quick and easy, make sure you clean out your pockets! Dad had a pocket full of loose change and several other metal items, and there is not much room provided to step out of line and remove your metal objects. Also, there is no re-admission to the museum, so be sure you have everything you need for the day.

As of 2011, individual admission to the Audubon Insectarium is $15.95 for adults, $12.95 for seniors over age 65 and $10.95 for children ages 2 to 12. If you plan to visit the other Audubon properties, though, combination tickets offer a significant savings. If you will be in town for awhile, Audubon offers annual memberships that provide numerous discounts and benefits.

Our Experience

At select times of the day, you can sample cooked insect dishes

The museum is open from 10-5 Tuesday through Saturday, but the Eat a Bug program is offered only during select hours. On the day of our visit, bug tastings were offered from 10 to 12, but the times change frequently. If you want to participate, check the official website for details.

We arrived at approximately 10:30 and went straight to the Eat a Bug café. It is located behind the main cafeteria at the far end of the building. Tastings are included with your admission fee and there is no limit on how much you may eat. The menu changes daily. Crickets and worms were featured on the day we visited–ground up in a variety of dips and roasted in several ways. The cinnamon roasted super worm tasted exactly like cinnamon cereal! All the dishes were surprisingly tasty, and we went back for seconds on a few things. You can even get a hand stamp afterwards telling the world that you ate a bug!

The Termite Gallery is disturbingly realistic

The museum consists of a series of connected galleries lining both sides of the main hall. The Louisiana Swamp gallery is particularly intriguing for its realistic depiction of the swamp, including a small alligator. The Termite gallery is a stomach-churning but all-too-real look at the ongoing Formosa termite problem in New Orleans and across the country.

The Underground Gallery shrinks visitors to the size of an insect

Unless your child is scared of the dark, don’t miss the Underground gallery. This dimly-lit exhibit makes it appear that you have shrunk to the size of an insect as you explore the recreation of a subterranean habitat. Watch out for the giant spider!

Awards Night is a short but hilarious 4-D film featuring insects on the red carpet. In-seat and in-theater effects add a bit of realism. Very sensitive children might be scared by the seat effects, so hold them in your lap if it is a concern. All of the kids in the theater with us, however, were amused rather than afraid.

The Butterfly Garden was my personal favorite

My favorite exhibit was the expansive butterfly garden. Designed as an Asian-style retreat, the area offers benches for you to relax and enjoy the free-ranging butterflies, as well as a koi pond. You are asked not to touch the butterflies, although they frequently land on visitors. Check your clothes before you leave to ensure that you don’t have a hitchhiker attached.

Tips for Parents

The museum has a number of light-hearted exhibits

We spent approximately three hours at the Insectarium including lunch at the (bug-free!) café. We could have spent another hour taking things in a bit more slowly, but this is definitely a half-day museum. If your child is particularly afraid of insects you may want to pass this one up, but overall the Insectarium seems carefully designed to appeal to both kids and adults.

The signage is excellent for those who want to learn more, and educators are stationed throughout the museum to give demonstrations and answer questions. We even had the opportunity to pet a Madagascar hissing cockroach! All on one level and small enough not to overwhelm, this is a particularly good choice for a day when you are feeling overwhelmed by New Orleans’ constant barrage of sights and sounds.

The Insectarium is fully accessible, and a small number of wheelchairs are available free of charge at the Information Desk. Small strollers are permitted throughout the museum.

The Audubon Aquarium sits at the foot of Canal Street

Established in 1914 as the Audubon Commission, the Audubon Nature Institute operates 10 parks and attractions throughout the city of New Orleans, Louisiana. Opened in 1990, the Audubon Aquarium is located on the edge of the French Quarter where Canal Street meets the Mississippi River. The Aquarium was one of the first attractions to establish the Quarter as a family-friendly destination. On a plot of land 15 feet above sea level, it also demonstrates New Orleans’ sense of irony. In a city known to be gradually sinking into the swamp, the highest ground is occupied by fish!

Visiting the Audubon Aquarium

The outer plaza is sometimes filled with performers and vendors

The Aquarium is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10-5. Basic admission to the exhibits is, as of 2011, $19.95 for adults, $15.95 for seniors over age 65, and $12.95 for children aged 2 to 12. Combination tickets include significantly discounted admission to the attached Entergy IMAX Theatre. If you plan to visit other Audubon properties, ticket packages save a great deal of money. For long-term visitors, Audubon memberships offer a variety of discounts and benefits.

Parking is available at multiple lots near the Aquarium. Although discounts are available for Aquarium visitors, parking in New Orleans is notoriously expensive. Traffic is often quite heavy, and roads are often blocked for parades and special events. If you are staying in the French Quarter or along a streetcar line, consider walking or taking public transportation.

Our Experience

The entrance tunnel reminds me of Jaws 3-D!

We arrived at the Aquarium around noon on a Sunday. It was absolutely packed with the after-church crowd. Although we were able to see everything, if you have a flexible schedule, choose a weekday instead.

We decided to take in both the Aquarium and the IMAX. We chose the last show of the day and headed into the Aquarium. Actually getting inside may take awhile, as there are frequently street performers and food vendors in the plaza outside the building. Leave time in your schedule to hang around for a bit, as many of the musicians are surprisingly good.

There are seven main exhibit areas, each featuring numerous types of sea life. Special programs throughout the day allow you to observe animal training or feeding. The main entrance tunnel is eerily reminiscent of the tunnel in Jaws 3-D, but aquarium staff assured me that there are no Great White sharks anywhere in the vicinity!

The Amazon Rainforest is highly realistic

Creatures both large and small are represented, from delicate sea horses to playful sea otters. The massive Amazon exhibit consists of a highly realistic walk through a simulated rainforest complete with wildlife from anacondas to piranhas. As expected, the exhibit is significantly hotter and more humid than the rest of the Aquarium.

White Alligators

One of only a handful of leucistic white alligators in the world

The Mississippi River exhibit provides an extensive, highly detailed look at the animals that make the area home. The crown jewels of the collection are the almost mythical-appearing leucistic white alligators. Unlike the better-known albinos, leucistic alligators have brilliantly blue eyes. They are also unbelievably rare. The Aquarium’s pair was transferred from the Audubon Zoo, where 18 white hatchlings were raised following their discovery in a nearby swamp in 1987. Only two other captures of leucistic alligators have ever been recorded, both in the Louisiana swamp.

Parakeet Pointe

You can feed the friendly parakeets

Parakeet Pointe, opened in 2011, is the newest addition to Audubon Aquarium. For just $1, you can purchase a treat stick before entering the massive aviary, filled solely with parakeets. The friendly, docile parakeets are happy to settle on your outstretched hand or arm to enjoy a snack. An educator is available inside the exhibit to answer questions and provide more information on the colorful birds.

Hurricane on the Bayou

Catch Hurricane on the Bayou if you can

Although the Entergy IMAX Theatre screens a variety of films, we strongly recommend that you take in Hurricane on the Bayou. To our knowledge, this is the only place the film is currently showing. Debuted on the first anniversary of 2005’s Hurricane Katrina, Hurricane on the Bayou is the true story of then-14 year old Amanda Shaw.

The film begins several months before Katrina. Amanda is a rising fiddle prodigy determined to use her talent as a platform to spread a message of wetlands conservation. Ironically, Amanda is in the middle of a school project focused on the importance of the wetlands as a hurricane buffer when Katrina hits. The rest of the film follows Amanda’s evacuation, rare footage from the storm, and her attempts to rebuild her life when the family returns home.

Hurricane on the Bayou is an excellent jumping off point for helping kids make sense of the storm. It also draws attention to many of the factors that helped create the disaster without ever sounding preachy or inauthentic. Even the more disturbing aspects, including the total loss of Amanda’s grandparents’ home, are handled in a sensitive manner. Appropriate humor helps to defuse the more intense emotions.

Tips for Parents

Adventure Island is an extensive kids' playground

Adventure Island is the Aquarium’s indoor playground for small kids. The area features climbing equipment and a variety of interactive displays, as well as informational signs describing pirate life in the Caribbean. Special kids’ programs are sometimes held in this section.

Take a moment when you arrive to sit down with the activity schedule. Feeding sessions, training sessions and educational programs are available throughout the day. Arrive early for any program that interests you, as large crowds often gather.

A reasonably priced food court is located outside Parakeet Pointe, and street vendors sometimes set up outside the Aquarium. If you want to leave and return, let the attendant at the door know. We had no problem coming and going at our leisure. The Aquarium is fully accessible, and a few wheelchairs are available free of charge at the Information Desk. Small strollers are allowed inside.

The Audubon Zoo began as a 19th century urban park

The Audubon Nature Institute consists of 10 parks and attractions throughout New Orleans, all devoted to conservation. The Institute got its start in 1914 as the Audubon Commission, established by state law to manage what was then Upper City Park. Now known as Audubon Park, it was built on a portion of the nation’s first commercial sugar plantation in 1884 as part of the World’s Industrial Centennial and Cotton Exposition.

One of the Audubon Commission’s first projects was the 1916 addition of a flight cage. The Commission continued to add animal exhibits throughout the 1920s. Despite the Great Depression, the Works Progress Administration (WPA) helped keep the project going and, with the help of a private benefactor, the Merz Memorial Zoo officially opened in 1938.

The Swamp Train runs through the center of the Zoo

The zoo hung on through the next two decades, but in 1958 it was blasted in the media as an “animal ghetto.” By 1970, the Humane Society was calling for its closure. The Audubon Commission rallied with the help of local volunteers, spearheading a remarkable renovation project decades ahead of its time. The new master plan called for expanding the zoo to 58 acres and creating natural habitats beyond anything the United States had seen. In 1981, the now-renamed Audubon Zoo received accreditation from the American Zoo and Aquarium Association (AZA), and quickly became a role model for other older parks.

Today the Zoo remains the centerpiece of the Audubon collection, regularly adding new exhibits and experiences. Dad and I visited on a warm Sunday in April 2011.

Visiting the Zoo

As of 2011, individual Zoo admission is $14.95 for adults, $11.95 for seniors over age 65 and $9.95 for children aged 2 to 12. If you plan to visit multiple Audubon attractions, combination tickets offer a significant discount. For long-term visitors, annual membership offers a variety of discounts and benefits. Attractions such as Cool Zoo, the Swamp Train, Dinosaur Adventure and the Carousel, require separately priced tickets.

Our Experience

Lines are sometimes long, but usually move quickly

The Zoo is located off Magazine Street in New Orleans’ Uptown district. Unlike the downtown properties, the Zoo has a massive free parking lot attached. Unfortunately for us, a new section had just opened and it seemed everyone in New Orleans decided to visit! Time your visit for a weekday and you should be able to find a reasonably close parking spot.

There were long lines at the ticket booths, but they moved surprisingly quickly. You’ll get a hand stamp as you enter the gate, allowing you to come and go all day. Grab a park map on your way in, as the maze-like feel of the sweeping exhibits can be disorienting. There is a “suggested route” printed on the map, but we didn’t totally follow the recommendations. Take a look at the activity schedule, as feeding and training sessions are offered throughout the day.

The elephant ring provides excellent photo ops

We were just in time for the elephant demonstration, so we headed there first. An educator narrates, giving all sorts of interesting information about elephant behavior, while a handler leads the elephant through a series of exercises. This was a terrific photo opportunity, as the elephant ring is quite close to the gathered crowd.

Divided into sections such as “Jaguar Jungle” and “Asia Domain,” the zoo was filled with animal encounters around every turn. Unlike many zoos that require a long walk between exhibits, the Audubon Zoo is relatively compact and each exhibit leads seamlessly into the next.

The Zoofari Cafe serves typical fair foods

We had lunch at the main Zoofari Café, located roughly in the middle of the park near the historic Carousel. Menu options included such typical tourist fare as burgers and hot dogs. If you are in the mood for more authentic New Orleans dining, hold out for the Cypress Knee Café in the Louisiana Swamp exhibit. Red beans and rice and gumbo are among its more popular offerings. The Flamingo Café at the main entrance offers outdoor counter service. A variety of snack and beverage stands are found throughout the Zoo.

Historic Traditions

The Sea Lion habitat dates to 1928

Despite massive renovations, the Zoo retains much of its 1930s charm. The elegant columns of the Sea Lion habitat date to 1928, while the grounds are dotted with historic brick buildings from the WPA era. Monkey Hill is a New Orleans tradition, built in the WPA era to show the children of flat New Orleans what a hill looks like. At 28 feet tall, it is the highest point within city limits! Today Monkey Hill offers a rope bridge, animal sculptures and a wading pool, but retains a grassy slope. A roll down Monkey Hill is a time-honored tradition for local kids.

Louisiana Swamp

The Louisiana Swamp highlights the relationship between man and water

The massive Louisiana Swamp exhibit has won national acclaim for its portrayal of a well-balanced habitat. Along a series of walkways, you will discover the harmonious relationship that early Cajun settlers had with the land and water around them. Take time to check out the wooden buildings and catch an alligator feeding. Near the end of the Louisiana Swamp is a display dedicated to Audubon’s famed leucistic white alligators.

Leucistic alligators are incredibly rare

Unlike the somewhat more common albinos, leucistic white alligators have brilliant blue eyes. The first leucistic alligators were discovered in a swamp near Houma, Louisiana in 1987. Their bright coloring makes it impossible for them to survive in the wild, so 18 leucistic hatchlings were brought to the Zoo. International media attention quickly turned them into the Zoo’s most enduring symbol. A single female was discovered in 1994, and two more were found in 2009. All have become part of the Audubon family, although some of the gators are eventually transferred to other facilities around the country. These three discoveries are the only documented cases of leucistic alligators in recorded human history.

Separately Priced Attractions

Go back in time at the realistic Dinosaur Adventure

You could easily fill an entire day at the Zoo without indulging in any separately priced attractions. But they are fun, reasonably priced and potentially worth a stop. The newest upcharge attraction is Cool Zoo. This splash park, priced at $5 per person as of 2011, offers three distinct zones including one specifically for younger children.

Dinosaur Adventure is a walk-through exhibit that simulates the natural world in the age of the dinosaurs. Massive, highly realistic audio-animatronic dinosaurs are the highlight of the exhibit, which also features fossil digs and educational activities. As of 2011, tickets are $4 per person.

The Swamp Train is a fun narrated ride across the park, departing throughout the day from the Carousel and the Louisiana Swamp. The Gottesman Family Endangered Species Carousel features 60 animals from a wide variety of species. As of 2011, the Swamp Train costs $5 and the Carousel is $2.

Tips for Parents

The reptile house closes 30 minutes before park closing

The Zoo is easily a full-day park. The Reptile House closes 30 minutes before park closing, so make sure to budget your time. We were inside when it closed, and it was rather eerie when they started turning off the lights!

There is a single smoking area, located in the far corner past the aviary. The area once led to the loading dock for the Zoo Cruise, a riverboat ride between the Zoo and the Aquarium. The riverboat cruise closed several years ago, but the area remains a nice place to relax.

The Zoo offers plenty of opportunities for kids to run around and burn off energy, so don’t pack your schedule too full. Also remember that New Orleans is hot and humid. Dress in lightweight clothing and drink plenty of fluids to keep everyone hydrated.

Audubon Zoo is fully accessible. Wheelchairs, strollers and wagons are available for rent at a nominal charge. You must present a photo ID or a $5 deposit for all rentals.

The Greek Revival plantation house is the main attraction

Oak Alley Plantation is sometimes known as the Grand Dame of the River Road, a collection of historic plantations located an hour from New Orleans in the town of Vacherie, Louisiana. Little is known about the plantation’s early years, but it was already a known landmark by the time the Capuchin Fathers settled St. James Parish in 1722.

The plantation is named for the 28 live oak trees lining the main path

The plantation is named for its sweeping alley of 28 live oak trees, arranged 14 on each side along the lane leading from the river to the home. Although it is impossible to see over today’s 30-foot levees, in the 1700s and 1800s the levees were only five to ten feet tall. The soaring live oaks played an important, if unintentional, role in ships’ navigation, as riverboat captains used them as a landmark to pinpoint their position.

From the Romans to the Stewarts

The interior of the home has been carefully restored

In 1836, Jacques Telesphore Roman acquired Oak Alley from his brother-in-law, Valcour Aime. It was already a working sugar plantation with 57 slaves and a steam sugar mill. In 1837, Roman began construction on the current home, the first documented plantation home on the property. Completed in 1839, the house is a stunning example of Greek Revival architecture, and is constructed of solid brick. All walls are approximately 16 inches thick, and the home is surrounded by 28 columns, each 8 feet in circumference.

The family held onto Oak Alley until 1866, when son Henri was forced to sell it at auction. The plantation fell into an era of bad luck, as owner after owner experienced struggles and hardships. Fortunes finally reversed in 1925, when the plantation was purchased by Andrew and Josephine Stewart.

The Stewarts put a great deal of time and money into renovating Oak Alley, which had deteriorated significantly during periods of abandonment. Josephine Stewart outlived her husband and created a nonprofit foundation for the preservation of Oak Alley. Upon her death in 1972, ownership of the home and 25 acres of surrounding grounds transferred to the Foundation.

Oak Alley Today

Josephine Stewart's bedroom was left unchanged

Josephine Stewart’s nephew, Zeb Mayhew, Jr., was raised in New England but often vacationed at the plantation. He attended college at Tulane University in New Orleans and, as an adult, assumed control of the Oak Alley Foundation. He also inherited a portion of the surrounding plantation land from his Aunt Josephine. Over time, Zeb became the sole owner of the entire plantation, except the home and the 25 acres owned by the Foundation.

In 1996, the Foundation hired a highly respected Louisiana antiques dealer to oversee a massive restoration project. The goal was to recreate the look of Oak Alley during the Roman family’s era. Every room in the house has been redone except one. Josephine Stewart’s bedroom was left unchanged as a tribute to her legacy and hard work on behalf of Oak Alley.

The Creole cottages mix traditional charm with modern amenities

Today the plantation home is only part of Oak Alley’s allure. Those who wish to spend the night have a range of Creole cottages to choose from. The cottages are decorated in 19th century style, but offer such modern amenities as cable TV, Tempur-Pedic mattresses and wireless internet access. Cottages range in size from two-person getaways to an entire four-bedroom house perfect for larger groups.

Try the freshly made dishes at the on-site restaurant

The on-site restaurant, open for breakfast and lunch, serves a variety of freshly prepared Cajun and Creole dishes. Prices are surprisingly reasonable, and the portions are easily large enough to share. Those staying in the Creole cottages can order a boxed dinner, delivered to the cottage in heat-and-serve containers.

Connected to the restaurant, the gift shop is a true must-see. It contains a mind-boggling array of Oak Alley souvenirs, regional cookbooks and even handmade collectibles. Plan to spend at least 30 minutes shopping, or longer if you plan to browse through the massive collection of books.

Oak Alley Hauntings

The Oak Alley grounds are beautifully manicured

Ghost hunters will be pleased to know that Oak Alley appears to be a hotbed of paranormal activity. Visitors and staff members alike have reported experiences ranging from unusual sights and sounds to flying candlesticks. The property was investigated by the team from Syfy’s Ghost Hunters in 2008.

Oak Alley in Film

The plantation and grounds have been heavily featured in television and film since the 1960s. Perhaps the most famous film appearance was in 1994’s Interview with the Vampire, starring Brad Pitt and Tom Cruise. Oak Alley continues to welcome film crews, appearing in such recent television productions as The Young and the Restless and American Idol.

Tips for Parents

Food and beverages are not allowed inside the house, for obvious reasons

The expansive plantation grounds are larger than they appear at first glance. Massive swaths of manicured grass provide an excellent place for kids to run and play, burning off excess energy. Try to time the house tour, which lasts nearly an hour, for shortly after lunch. There is a lot to see, and most kids seem to love the tour, but it can feel like a long hour for parents if the kids are tired or hungry!

Food and beverages are not permitted inside the house, but can be carried around the grounds. Keep everyone hydrated in the Louisiana heat and humidity. Benches in the shade offer a great place to sit down and relax.

If anyone in the group is disabled, let the ticket booth operator know. Only the lower level of the house is accessible to those who have trouble with stairs. Everything else is wheelchair and stroller accessible, but the distances between things are long. The ticket booth operator can provide a pass allowing you to drive the back roads through the plantation grounds, parking close to each building.

New Orleans' City Park is a natural home for a gondola ride

New Orleans is known for many things, from world-class cuisine to a constant backdrop of jazz and blues music. But when Dad and I saw an authentic Venetian gondola plying the waters of City Park, it was a bit of a shock even for us jaded locals. We had the pleasure of a private sunset cruise on the NOLA Gondola last month.

About NOLA Gondola

The elegant Bella Mae

NOLA Gondola is currently a one-man operation that is doing a booming business. Gondolier Robert Dula became fascinated by gondolas as a child thanks to the James Bond film Moonraker. He told his mother at a very early age that his goal was to own one. In 2003, Robert finally got his chance. He commissioned a gondola from a company in Venice, naming it the Bella Mae after his mother.

Robert set up shop in Pensacola, Florida in March 2004, providing gondola rides to the public. But a hurricane named Ivan had other ideas. Shortly before Ivan made landfall in the early morning hours of September 16, 2004, Robert did the only thing he could–he actually sank the gondola, allowing it to ride out the storm underwater. While the Bella Mae survived beautifully, Robert’s home was not so fortunate. Faced with the utter loss of his home and the destruction of the tourism that fed his company, Robert relocated to New Orleans.

City Park provides a lovely backdrop

Filled with waterways and massive live oak trees, New Orleans’ City Park offers a stunning backdrop for a romantic boat ride. Robert reinvented his business as NOLA Gondola and began offering rides through City Park in early 2005.

In August 2005, Robert found himself reliving the horrors of the previous year. As a monster storm named Katrina set its sights on New Orleans, Robert again sank his beloved Bella Mae, this time near the New Orleans Museum of Art in City Park. Like many New Orleans residents, Robert decided to stay and ride out the hurricane. It was a decision that would turn him into a local hero. Although Robert downplays his role in the aftermath of Katrina, the costliest and one of the deadliest hurricanes on record, the entry he wrote for The Gondola Blog cannot be denied.

Robert Dula became a hometown hero during Katrina

Like everyone else who rode out the fateful storm, Robert believed that the city had been spared by the storm’s last-minute wobble to the east. After a day spent clearing downed trees with a chainsaw, he went to bed early on August 29, 2005. Awakening at 3 a.m., he realized that his home was starting to fill with water. After moving what possessions he could salvage to his second floor balcony, Robert set out to see what he could do to help.

Over the course of the next six days, Robert participated in the rescue effort with his brand-new kayak, and used the walkie-talkie feature on his cell phone to stay in touch with a gondolier contact in Boston. The phone link became a lifeline for friends and strangers who were unable to get in touch with loved ones outside the city. Robert faithfully collected phone numbers and relayed them to his Boston friend, who in turn made a seemingly endless chain of calls to update family members on their loved ones’ status. Robert’s rescue efforts culminated in the evacuation of his neighbors and their two large dogs. A helicopter swooped down to plunk everyone off the roof, but it was Robert who slung the dogs over his shoulder and carried them up a ladder through the attic and onto the roof.

Robert left with the group and ended up taking the last seat on a random flight. He did not know until he was on the plane that the destination was Denver, Colorado. He spent two weeks in the barracks at Lowry Air Force Base, and has only glowing praise and rave reviews for his hosts and the people of Denver. But as soon as New Orleans was ready for residents to return, Robert came home. His beloved Bella Mae had weathered the storm admirably, and he was ready to get back to work.

The NOLA Gondola Experience

The Bella Mae was commissioned from Venice

The Bella Mae seats up to six guests. A fabric-draped loveseat is perfect for two, while elegant chairs are available for the rest of the group. Robert provides cheese triangles, crackers and chocolates for all guests. You are welcome to bring your own alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverages, and an ice bucket is available on request. Blankets are provided when the weather is chilly.

Robert keeps life jackets for infants as well as adults

Safety is taken very seriously, and Robert keeps the gondola stocked with life jackets in a range of sizes from infant through adult. He provides a steadying hand during boarding and disembarking, and carefully loads the boat to provide an even distribution of weight.

Classical music offers a romantic backdrop on cruises for two, but Robert is happy to play whatever CDs your family provides. He also has a small lineup of specialty music, including a version of “Happy Birthday” featuring dogs barking the song, so be sure to ask!

At 1300 acres, City Park is nearly twice the size of New York’s Central Park. The waterways are quite extensive, spreading out in multiple directions and snaking through the Sculpture Garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art. Bring your camera, as the views are nearly unparalleled, even in a city that is well-known for its natural beauty. The local wildlife is familiar with the gondola and often comes quite close. Robert knows a great deal about the animals and their daily habits, and is happy to point out various creatures.

Tips for Parents

Travel through the Sculpture Garden on your ride

NOLA Gondola has become popular for birthday parties and other kids’ events. Robert is good-natured and happy to work with any particular theme or experience that you can dream up. He told us that pirate parties go over well with many kids, while others prefer to dress up and have an “elegant” experience. You know your kids best, so don’t hesitate to involve Robert in your plans.

Make sure that your kids are comfortable in and around the water before your ride. The gondola rides low, and you can definitely feel the motion of the boat. Although Robert is an excellent gondolier, excess moving around and playing could cause the boat to capsize. Remind your kids to stay seated throughout the cruise.

If anyone in your group is disabled, let Robert know when you make the reservation. The normal dock requires two steep steps down, first onto a chair and then into the boat itself. An alternate dock is available with a smaller step into the boat. Robert is happy to assist with boarding in any way possible, but it is best to bring an able-bodied companion that can help with transferring into the gondola.