We lived half a block from here

Before we decided to travel full-time in our RV, Dad and I lived in the French Quarter of New Orleans. Living in the Quarter is so much different than visiting, as I would imagine is true for any extremely popular tourist destination. For example, Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop is a hugely crowded tourist bar on Bourbon Street. It was also half a block from our apartment. I used to love going into the bar in my pajamas at 4 a.m. to use the ATM, entirely freaking out all the tourists who were dressed to the nines!

We got our mail at 1000 Bourbon Street

We only had a mail slot at our apartment, so we had all packages sent to the French Quarter Postal Emporium, located at 1000 Bourbon Street. More than once, we were on the phone with someone giving them the delivery address. The response went roughly like this: “Bourbon Street?!?! I’ve never sent anything to Bourbon Street before! You mean people actually LIVE there?!?”

We left New Orleans in 2007, and Mardi Gras this year was our first opportunity to return. While many of the faces have changed, the Quarter still feels like our neighborhood. The feeling was just what anyone would have when going home after a few years away. But New Orleans is a welcoming place, where anyone from anywhere can feel at home within a matter of days. With that in mind, here’s your guide to doing the French Quarter Local-Style.

Getting Your Bearings

The French Quarter sits along the banks of the Mississippi River

It’s hard to tour local-style if you don’t know where you are. Download or purchase a map of the French Quarter before you arrive and try to memorize as many of the streets as possible. Here are the major points to remember. The French Quarter is a 14-block by 7-block grid. Although this may sound like a lot, remember that the Quarter was laid out in the 1700s. Each block is less than half of a modern city block, and the entire Quarter is pedestrian-friendly and extremely walkable. Plan to park your car, if you have one, and explore the Quarter solely on foot.

The Quarter is bounded by the Mississippi River and Rampart Street in the 7-block direction, and Canal Street and Esplanade Avenue in the 14-block direction. Don’t worry about compass directions, as locals never use them. Just orient yourself according to the river, and you’ll be able to follow whatever directions you may be given.

The streetcars are both local transportation and tourist attraction

Past Esplanade is the Marigny, an up and coming artsy district where the locals like to hang out. Past Canal is the Central Business District and then the Garden District. All the street names change when you cross Canal, but the one you want to remember is St. Charles (which is Royal inside the Quarter). That’s where the historic streetcar runs, easily transporting you from the Quarter to the Garden District. Past Rampart is the Treme. If you’ve ever seen the HBO show Treme, it is set in this neighborhood in the post-Katrina rebuilding period. Be very careful if you explore the Treme though, as the neighborhood changes block by block from “funky and interesting” to “dangerous.”

Jackson Square and the Cathedral bisect the French Quarter

The Quarter is bisected by Orleans Street near Rampart and by Jackson Square, with the St. Louis Cathedral, near the river. From this area toward Esplanade is known as the Lower Quarter, while the area toward Canal is known as the Upper Quarter. The Upper Quarter is touristy, loud and contains most of the sightseeing attractions. The Lower Quarter is more residential, somewhat quieter and contains most of the local-oriented restaurants, bars and hangouts.

Where to Stay

The Andrew Jackson is one of many historic French Quarter hotels

The French Quarter and surrounding area offer plenty of moderate and high-end chain hotels, from the Holiday Inn to the Ritz-Carlton. While these properties are very nice, they are still chains. Why come to New Orleans to experience the same hotel room you could have in Peoria? The Quarter is filled with small, independent hotels and guest houses with a great deal of history. Some are reputed to be haunted.

Why not try out the Andrew Jackson Hotel, located on Royal Street in the residential Lower Quarter, which stands on the site of the courthouse where future President Andrew Jackson, already a war hero, was charged with contempt of court and obstruction of justice? Or how about the Dauphine Orleans, located in the tourist-oriented Upper Quarter, which was created from a collection of historic buildings? You might get a room in the cottage where John James Audubon painted his famous “Birds of America” series or one in a former bordello. If you prefer a more upscale atmosphere, try the Hotel Monteleone. It’s been one of New Orleans’ most luxurious (and haunted!) hotels since the 1880s.

What to See

World-famous Bourbon Street is a must-see. Once.

Without a doubt, you must see world-famous Bourbon Street. The epicenter of French Quarter tourist activity is the corner of Bourbon and St. Peter in the Upper Quarter. It’s fine to take younger children down Bourbon during the day, and even at night mid-week. Keep an open mind, as Bourbon Street makes no secret of its strip clubs, bars and lingerie shops, but your odds of seeing anything truly risqué out on the street are fairly low. Keep the kids away on weekend nights and particularly during Mardi Gras, when the anything-goes atmosphere is decidedly adult oriented.

The statue casts a wonderful shadow on the Cathedral at night

Once you’ve checked Bourbon Street off your list, move on. The truth is that most locals rarely visit Bourbon Street at all, except the section that stretches through the residential Lower Quarter. If you are interested in antiques and art galleries, head a block over to Royal Street. The collection of galleries is highly impressive. You’ll pass the back of the St. Louis Cathedral between St. Ann and St. Peter, so stop and check out the statue of Jesus.

Hurricane Katrina took down two immense live oak trees, one on each side of the statue. The trees broke the forefinger off one hand and the thumb off the other, but the statue remained standing. Relief workers found the pieces, but the Archdiocese decided not to repair the statue until the city is whole again.

The tarot readers ply their trade in the shadow of the Cathedral

Head down Pirate’s Alley, which runs beside the Cathedral. This is where infamous pirate Jean Lafitte allegedly set up a black market. If you’re in the mood for a break, the Pirate’s Alley bar has coffee and tea as well as a full menu of alcoholic beverages. If the adults are feeling particularly adventurous, try the absinthe. Legalized in the United States in 2007 after a nearly 100-year ban, absinthe was hugely popular in 1800s New Orleans.

Be sure to tour St. Louis Cathedral, an elegant minor basilica that is the oldest Catholic Cathedral in the United States. Then pay a visit to the fortune tellers in Jackson Square, just outside the Cathedral. They work for tips and are highly entertaining, even if you do not believe in palmistry or tarot. Take a break inside the park, where on warm afternoons you will find families playing in the grass or catching a nap.

Take a stroll along the river on the Moon Walk

Across Decatur Street from Jackson Square is the Moon Walk, a riverfront walking path named after former Mayor Moon Landrieu, father of current Mayor Mitch Landrieu and Senator Mary Landrieu. The view of the Mississippi River is well-worth the trek. As you face the river, the Riverwalk, a shopping complex that houses the New Orleans Cruise Terminal and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum is to your right, along with Harrah’s Casino. Across the river is Algiers, a small residential community. A free passenger ferry crosses the river at regular intervals until midnight, which you can catch at the foot of Canal Street.

Cafe du Monde is a French Quarter institution

When you have had your fill of the Moon Walk, stop by Café du Monde on Decatur Street. This French Quarter icon has served café au lait (chicory coffee with lots of milk) and beignets (French doughnuts coated in powder sugar) since 1862. Open 24 hours per day, 7 days per week, it closes only for Christmas and occasional hurricanes. The restaurant was spared during Hurricane Katrina, but took advantage of the down time when the city was under a mandatory evacuation order to perform some needed upgrades. It reopened in October 2005.

Now follow the river in the opposite direction from the Moon Walk to the French Market. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, this six-block combined flea market and farmer’s market has been in the same spot since 1791. Shopping opportunities are seemingly limitless, from fresh-picked produce to sunglasses and New Orleans souvenirs.

The Voodoo Museum gives a peek into New Orleans rich history

Lower Decatur Street is packed with low-priced restaurants, bars and shops of every description. Take a few minutes to look around before back tracking to Dumaine Street. Today Dumaine is sort of voodoo row, featuring the Voodoo Museum, Esoterica Occult Goods and the Voodoo Authentica shop. The Museum is well worth the price of admission which, as of 2011, is $7 for adults with discounts for students, seniors and children. Here you will find displays, photos and information detailing the history of voodoo in New Orleans. When you are finished, stop by one or both of the shops to get a sense of the role that voodoo plays in modern New Orleans life.

Tips for Parents

The acrobat troupe always draws a huge crowd

It would be easy to spend a month in the French Quarter and not see nearly everything. The Quarter is a vibrant community filled with colorful characters. Use this guide as a list of suggested highlights, not a hard and fast tour schedule. There are dozens of treasures not mentioned here, and it is very easy to get distracted by the events of the day. Relax, take your time and keep your eyes open. Walking parades known as second lines take place at seemingly random times. Street performers, from musicians to balloon artists, compete for attention. Spontaneous conversation with a local resident can turn into a day of lounging and chatting. New Orleans is the sort of place where it is best to slow down, say hello to everyone and expect utterly random good things to happen.

The Clover Grill is hugely popular. Read your menu closely for a good laugh!

Keep an eye on the kids, but let them feel free to explore (under your guidance). The French Quarter is a carnival for the senses, and you never know what may catch their eyes. Set some ground rules in advance for purchases, as there is a seemingly endless assortment of trinkets and souvenirs. Take frequent rest stops and keep everyone drinking water, as the heat and humidity can be intense. Try to tour on a sunny day, as rain tends to send locals and tourists alike scurrying for cover.

Although popular media depicts the French Quarter as an adult-oriented place, there are plenty of things for kids to enjoy. Confine your visit to Bourbon Street to daylight hours or early evening midweek, and you and your family can have a wonderful time exploring the rest of the Quarter local-style!

The French Quarter gets pretty wild on Mardi Gras

New Orleans Mardi Gras is known world-wide for its rowdy debauchery and anything-goes attitude for adults. Certainly no parent would want to take their child into the middle of such a scene, right? In reality, this perception, fueled by the popular media, reflects only the tiniest bit of what Mardi Gras is all about.

The party on Bourbon Street is adult-oriented

At night throughout the season and all day on Fat Tuesday, Bourbon Street is indeed the epicenter of a wild party primarily attended by adult tourists. But the rest of the city celebrates Mardi Gras in much the same manner as Christmas–as an opportunity for family reunions, barbecues and a whole lot of all-ages fun. There is no reason to deny your kids the chance to celebrate a holiday that kids in New Orleans take for granted. However, advance planning is crucial to enjoyment for both you and your kids.

When to Go

The superkrewes roll on the weekend before Mardi Gras day

Mardi Gras day, or Fat Tuesday, is the day before Ash Wednesday. Consequently, its date changes every year depending on when Easter falls, but is always in February or very early March. The Carnival season (often just called Mardi Gras) begins on Twelfth Night or the Epiphany, which is always January 6. While there are a few parades and celebrations early in the season, the party really ramps up in the two weeks preceding Fat Tuesday. You definitely want to arrive by the Friday before Mardi Gras as the so-called superkrewes, with dozens of floats and celebrity guest riders, parade all weekend. The celebration ends promptly at midnight the night of Mardi Gras day, when mounted police ceremonially sweep the revelers out of the streets in preparation for Ash Wednesday.

Where to Stay

If you can afford to stay on St. Charles, the parades will roll past your door

The biggest drawback to Mardi Gras is the expense. Hotel rates generally double or even triple beginning on the Friday before Mardi Gras. Some rates rise even before then. Between the inflated prices, which can easily top $400 per night, and the drunken revelry, the French Quarter is NOT the best place for families to stay over Mardi Gras.

If your budget can accommodate prices similar to those in the Quarter, choose a hotel along St. Charles Avenue. Known as the Garden District, this area is more family-oriented and less chaotic, and the parades will literally roll outside your front door.

If cost is a concern, prices drop dramatically the further you get off the parade routes. Staying in the suburbs can be significantly less expensive but you will need to factor in parking, which can be both pricey and difficult to obtain. We camped in our RV at St. Bernard State Park about 20 miles outside the city, but if we could do it over again, we would pay a bit more for an RV site closer in. I doubt we saved much by the time we factored in parking and gas. Wherever you decide to stay, make reservations extremely early, up to a year in advance. It is not unusual for hotels to book solid.

Parking Considerations

Don't let this happen to you

Street parking in the Garden District is free and relatively easy to get. The closer it gets to parade time, the further from the route you will need to park, but there is generally enough for everyone. In the Central Business District and around the French Quarter, street parking is almost impossible. Garages and paid lots are widely available, but quite pricey. Expect to pay an average of $10-$20 per day in the run-up to Mardi Gras, and as much as $60 per day through Mardi Gras weekend. Note that parking spots are tight and parallel parking is common. If you have a hitch or other attachment on your vehicle, remove it as soon as you get into town.

If you want to park on the street, pay very close attention to all relevant signs. The French Quarter is entirely closed to vehicular traffic during Mardi Gras weekend. All vehicles must be off the street for street sweeping (Tuesday mornings on some blocks and Thursday mornings on opposite blocks). Some areas require resident parking permits to park for more than two hours during specific times of day. Parking is not permitted on parade routes from two hours before the parade until two hours after. The city makes a lot of money on towing and impound fees during Mardi Gras, so be extremely careful about where you choose to park.

What to Expect

Crowds are all part of the Mardi Gras experience

The entire city will be crowded, literally shoulder to shoulder in some spots at various times. You may need to stand in line for upwards of an hour to get a table at a casual restaurant, while more upscale eateries are generally fully booked months in advance. Even using the restroom can be a challenge, requiring you to make a purchase and stand in line for more than 30 minutes. Try hotels, restaurants and even bars for emergency restroom stops. Although you must be 21 to enter most bars, staff often makes exceptions for kids who just need relief.

Emergency services are always easy to find at Mardi Gras

Despite  seeming chaos, Mardi Gras is remarkably well controlled. New Orleanians are, almost without exception, friendly and welcoming. Once you stake a claim on your patch of sidewalk for the parades, don’t be surprised if everyone around you strikes up a conversation.

You will probably be offered snacks and beverages by your fellow parade-goers, and you will end up sharing beads and other “throws.” There is a heavy police presence, and any potential incident is dealt with quickly. For example, we saw someone try to climb over a barricade Monday night during a parade. Two police officers grabbed the guy and literally placed him back on the proper side of the barricade before he even hit the ground.

About the Parades

Ladder seats give kids and adults alike a great view of the proceedings

At Mardi Gras, you’ll almost never experience just a single parade. Two or even three parades back-to-back is common, and there may be both morning and afternoon parades. Some parades last upwards of three hours. Most people just arrive early and set up their spot for the day.

With the exception of Endymion, which rolls in the Mid-City neighborhood on the Saturday before Mardi Gras, and some of the local suburban parades, everything rolls on the same route along St. Charles Avenue and Canal Street. St. Charles is significantly more family-oriented and recommended for children.

Snack vendors are common, but beverage vendors are not. Remember that drinking on the street is legal in New Orleans as long as you do not have a glass bottle. Many families bring coolers with an assortment of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, snacks and sandwiches. Some even bring grills, crab pots and other cooking equipment. Restaurants and convenience stores along the routes are open, but there may be very long lines. Domino’s Pizza sells personal-sized pizzas out of small portable warmers along each route.

Bring folding camp chairs or plan to sit on the curb. Grandstand tickets are sold to the public each year, but are pricey and sell out quickly. Although some people stand the entire time, the days can be quite long. Dad and I stayed in the same spot on St. Charles Avenue for 16 hours last Sunday! If you are feeling industrious, consider making a ladder seat for small children. A long-standing New Orleans tradition, ladder seats consist simply of a ladder with a small wooden seat attached on top. You’ll see kids (and sometimes their parents!) on these ladders all along the parade route.

Flambeaux are a connection to Mardi Gras history

Flambeaux, or torches, are carried by African-American men alongside many of the night parades. In the days before electricity, flambeaux illuminated the floats for patrons’ enjoyment. The first flambeau carriers were slaves, and many of today’s carriers are descendants of the original carriers.

Today their purpose is ceremonial, but the tradition is taken seriously by both flambeau carriers and the crowd. Many of the men dance with their flambeaux, performing an intricate series of gyrations and poses that rivals any performance within the parade itself. It is traditional, though not required, to tip a dollar to any flambeau carrier who particularly grabs your attention.

Parade Throws

The most coveted throw of all-the Zulu coconut

Throws are items that float riders throw to the crowd. Beads are by far the most common, but throws can be virtually anything. We’ve gotten stuffed animals, roses (both real and synthetic), wooden spears, plastic swords, footballs, Frisbees, plastic cups bearing the name of the krewe, doubloons (small aluminum coins stamped with the krewe name and year), coloring books and all sorts of other throws. One year my dad was even handed a plastic cup of wine! By far the most coveted throw, which I am proud to say I got this year, is the Zulu coconut.

The Zulu krewe is a fan favorite

The Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club is a definite fan favorite. Although the African-American krewe officially incorporated in 1916, their roots are shrouded in mystery. It is known that the earliest members belonged to a Benevolent Society, a common turn-of-the-twentieth century alternative to insurance, in which members paid low annual dues in exchange for financial assistance if they or their families became ill or passed away. They marched during Mardi Gras 1901, but were not officially known as Zulus until 1906.

Today Zulu parades at 8 a.m. on Mardi Gras day in a spectacle that lasts for several hours. Zulu is immediately followed by Rex, the oldest white krewe, and the two kings hold celebrations together. Zulu coconuts are literally coconuts that have been hollowed out and painted. In 1988, the city of New Orleans forbade the throwing of coconuts due to the potential for injury. The only way to get a Zulu coconut today is to be handed one directly by a Zulu float rider. They are relatively rare compared to the sheer volume of beads and other throws, and it is considered an honor to be gifted with one.

This is just part of one day's loot!

Bring a sturdy bag to haul your loot. Dad and I only went to four days of parades, intentionally tried NOT to catch too much, shared some of our beads with those around us, and still ended up with approximately 75 pounds worth of throws. Try to empty your bag into another container before each parade, or at least at the end of each day.

Parade Etiquette

Be careful when picking up dropped throws

Believe it or not, there is a fairly elaborate code of etiquette attached to the Mardi Gras parades. Remember, many of the local families have been attending for generations upon generations. The biggest rule to remember is how to pick up a dropped throw. Invariably, some of the beads and other goodies hit the ground. To avoid being stepped on in the resulting scuffle, place your foot firmly on top of the throw. That stakes your claim and allows you to pick it up when things calm down a bit.

Never try to squeeze in front of people who have been patiently waiting. Families stake out their spots as much as 24 hours in advance, although it is relatively easy to get a spot as late as an hour before most parades. Showing up late and elbowing your way in is a great way to make enemies! Of course, the crowds are fluid, so it is always fine to try to get closer to the front. Just stand back and watch the crowd flow for a few minutes first to get a sense of where to go.

Anything that draws attention can net you more throws

Drawing attention to yourself is always appropriate. Raise both hands over your head and shout the traditional Mardi Gras cry, “Throw me something, Mister!” Some people use fishing nets on poles, cardboard targets, posters with catchy sayings and other techniques. All are fine, and may help you net that special throw. If you are close to a float and see something specific that you want, it never hurts to ask. Riders like to make the crowd happy. Of course, thanking the rider for the throw is always a good idea.

If you and someone else catch opposite ends of the same throw, use common sense. Generally the person with the larger half keeps the throw, but some people are prone to being extra “grabby.” With liberal drinking laws, it’s never worth picking a fight. If someone wants the throw that badly, let him have it. There will always be another one.

Parade Safety

Stay a couple of steps back from the floats to avoid injury

Portions of the route, typically along Canal Street, have metal barricades to keep the crowd back. Other portions, particularly along St. Charles, do not. It is traditional for the crowd to “rush” the floats in an attempt to get special throws. This is perfectly acceptable and generally safe, but use common sense. The floats are heavy, moving pieces of machinery.

Approach cautiously and stay a couple of steps back, even if someone cuts in front of you. Keep a close eye on kids, who may be tempted to run directly in front of an oncoming float to pick up goodies from the street. Also keep an eye out for what is coming next. The marching bands spread out to fill the entire street, with handlers walking ahead to move people back. If you see a band coming, retreat to the curb immediately.

Keeping Kids Entertained

The spectacular parades will keep everyone paying rapt attention

While the parades themselves are filled with enough spectacle to dazzle even the most jaded child (or adult!), the waits before and between parades can be lengthy. It is, after all, “New Orleans time” (an expression with which you will become quite familiar). If you have chairs to mark your spot, try going for a walk to explore the neighborhood. Bring a small football, Frisbee, jump rope or other play equipment or join in an impromptu game with others. Handheld gaming systems are another option, but try not to let your kids spend the entire time behind a screen. There is a lot to look at and do, so focus on engaging with your surroundings. With just a bit of ingenuity, it will be remarkably easy to keep a child planted in one spot for hours on end.