The New Orleans Museum District was revitalized in recent years

The New Orleans Museum District has undergone extensive revitalization in recent years, after sinking into neglect toward the end of the 20th century. Well-connected to the rest of the city via the St. Charles streetcar line, the area now contains entirely refurbished loft apartments and interesting restaurants. But the museums remain the central attractions. Anchored by the National World War II Museum, the district is also home to several smaller attractions. Dad and I visited the Louisiana Civil War Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art on our New Orleans Mardi Gras 2011 trip.

Louisiana Civil War Museum

The Civil War Museum opened in 1891

The oldest museum in Louisiana and one of the largest collections of Confederate artifacts, the Louisiana Civil War Museum opened in 1891. The museum building, known as Confederate Memorial Hall, was actually built specifically to house this collection and has never held anything else.

Though photography is not permitted, we were allowed to snap one quick photo for the article

The museum is the absolute antithesis of anything seen today, giving it a quaint and irresistible charm. The old wooden floors creak and groan with every step. The artifacts are displayed in a series of glass cases with old-fashioned, and in some cases hand-written, descriptive labels. The building smells old and slightly musty.

In order to fully appreciate the museum, it is necessary to understand how it came to be. The War Between the States came to an end in 1865. In the 1880s, when the museum was conceptualized, those who survived the war wanted a place to protect and honor their treasured mementos. Meanwhile, the families of those who gave their lives in the war wanted to pay tribute to their fallen loved ones. All parties agreed that it was important to provide a spot for future generations to learn the lessons of the Civil War. For a full history of this unique museum, visit the official website.

Unlike most modern museums, whose artifacts are often donated by people several times removed from their origins, the collection at the Louisiana Civil War Museum is extremely personal. Take the time to read some of the handwritten tags and labels. You’ll find uniforms donated by widows, rifles donated by sons, and letters contributed by the soldiers who wrote them. This fact, combined with the relatively small space and the age of the building, elicits a surprisingly emotional response in many visitors.

Despite its lack of high-tech thrills, the museum is well worth a visit, even for those with small children. The admission fee is nominal, and all proceeds go directly toward the museum’s upkeep and preservation. The sheer sense of history is simply awe-inspiring.

Ogden Museum of Southern Art

Ogden houses the largest collection of Southern art in the world

Housing the largest collection of Southern art in the world, the Ogden Museum of Southern Art opened next door to Confederate Memorial Hall in 2003. The shiny, modern five-story building creates a visually arresting juxtaposition of old and new that is representative of New Orleans as a whole.

Since its inception, Ogden has been known for its “Ogden After Hours” parties in which museum members and the general public alike are invited to listen to local musicians while enjoying the galleries. The museum was spared from significant damage in Hurricane Katrina, and it reopened with an After Hours party on October 27, 2005. Hoping to draw 100 guests, the party actually drew more than 600, taking its place as one of the biggest post-Katrina cultural events to that date.

The open floor plan showcases the art

Although the museum’s collection is massive, a wide-open floor plan prevents it from feeling overwhelming. Exhibits range from paintings to sculptures to photographs. The Ogden regularly debuts new and touring exhibits, offering something new almost every time you visit.

Dad and I attended one of the legendary After Hours parties, featuring noted New Orleans jazz guitarist Brian Seeger. Admission is only $10 (2011 pricing) and the parties take place every Thursday evening from 6 to 8 p.m. This allows parents to expose kids to the local music scene without keeping them out too late.

Children's activities are offered at every party

The parties are intentionally family-friendly, with a different craft activity for kids offered in the museum each week. Chairs are set up in front of the stage, but it is easy to hear the music throughout the galleries. After the performance, the musical guest is interviewed by a local music writer. This is a great chance to learn more about the musician, and the interviews are recorded for the museum archives.

It is possible to see the highlights of Ogden during the two-hour party, though art buffs may want to return for a closer look. The dress code is casual, but Dad and I felt slightly underdressed in our regular tourist clothes. If you plan to attend the party, you may want to freshen up and change into a slightly dressier shirt. Jeans are fine. A small selection of hors d’oeuvres is available for sale, and the full-service O Bar is open for business.

The Wax Museum explores the legend of Marie Laveau

It would be easy to spend an entire vacation in New Orleans’ French Quarter just shopping, eating and catching the street performers. Bigger attractions like the Audubon Aquarium and Insectarium might grab your attention, or you might wander to the outskirts of the Quarter to visit St. Louis Cemetery Number One.

However, no trip to New Orleans would be complete without stopping by at least one or two of the French Quarter’s smaller attractions. Inexpensive, uncrowded and exceptionally friendly, these attractions are great places to decompress and learn a little more of New Orleans’ unique culture. On our Mardi Gras 2011 visit, Dad and I took in the Beauregard-Keyes House, the Historical Wax Museum and the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum.

Beauregard-Keyes House

The Beauregard-Keyes House is reputedly haunted

While the majority of buildings in the French Quarter date to the 1800s, most have been modernized–cut up into apartments and shops with air-conditioning, cable and other modern amenities. The Beauregard-Keyes House allows visitors to see how wealthy New Orleanians lived in the early 1800s. The house was built in 1826 and is named for its two most famous residents. Confederate General P.T. Beauregard occupied the home from 1866-1868, while novelist Frances Parkinson Keyes lived there from 1944 until her death in 1970. The home is mostly decorated in 1800s style, though Keyes touches are evident throughout, particularly in the room that she used as a bedroom in later life.

Our guide at the Beauregard-Keyes House was incredibly welcoming

The tour guide lives on the property and there is a wealth of fascinating information about both the home and the city as a whole. Our group consisted of a middle-aged woman, Dad and me. We sat with the guide for quite awhile before the official tour began, just sharing Hurricane Katrina stories and chatting about various topics. At the end of the tour, our guide gave everyone a strand of Mardi Gras beads. It’s a fun takeaway that is especially great for children.

The house is located at 1113 Chartres Street, across from the Old Ursulines Convent (the oldest building in the Mississippi Valley, also open for public tours). As of 2011, admission is $10 for adults, $9 for students and seniors, and $4 for kids aged 6-12. Children under 6 are free. Tours are conducted every hour on the hour every day except Sunday. The house is a featured stop on many ghost tours, but the current guide claims that he has never experienced anything unusual.

Historical Wax Museum

The wax museum marks major events in New Orleans' history

The Historical Wax Museum of New Orleans is, in our opinion, one of the best places to get a clear and concise history of the city. Opened in 1963, the museum’s 154 wax figures detail the story of New Orleans from its early days through the modern era. The Battle of New Orleans, the mystery of voodoo queen Marie Laveau and even the Storyville adult district and its effects on the invention of New Orleans jazz are covered in great detail. Yet the displays stay away from the tawdry or salacious, focusing instead on the historical facts. There is a traditional Haunted Dungeon at the end, which features horror movie villains, but it can easily be bypassed if desired.

The museum is located at 947 Conti in the Upper Quarter. As of 2011, it is open only Mondays, Fridays and Saturdays. Admission is $7 for adults, $6.25 for seniors and $6 for kids aged 4 through 17. Children under 4 are free.

New Orleans Pharmacy Museum

The New Orleans Pharmacy Museum is filled with interesting artifacts

In 1822, Louis J. Dufilho, Jr. purchased land at 514/516 Chartres Street. He constructed a modest home and opened an apothecary shop downstairs in 1823.  Significant improvements were made on the house in 1837. The building was sold several times over the years and fell into neglect by 1937. It was purchased by then-mayor Maestri and donated to the city. The Pharmacy Museum opened in 1950.

Today the building is filled with artifacts dedicated to the practice of medicine and pharmacology in 1800s New Orleans.  A self-guided tour pamphlet contains a great deal of information, and the exhibits are well-labeled. Although the museum is traditional rather than high-tech or interactive, most kids seem fascinated by it. Be prepared for questions, as many of the instruments are eye-catching and exotic by modern standards.

As of 2011, the museum is open limited hours Tuesday through Saturday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and students, and free for children under age 6.

The Greek Revival plantation house is the main attraction

Oak Alley Plantation is sometimes known as the Grand Dame of the River Road, a collection of historic plantations located an hour from New Orleans in the town of Vacherie, Louisiana. Little is known about the plantation’s early years, but it was already a known landmark by the time the Capuchin Fathers settled St. James Parish in 1722.

The plantation is named for the 28 live oak trees lining the main path

The plantation is named for its sweeping alley of 28 live oak trees, arranged 14 on each side along the lane leading from the river to the home. Although it is impossible to see over today’s 30-foot levees, in the 1700s and 1800s the levees were only five to ten feet tall. The soaring live oaks played an important, if unintentional, role in ships’ navigation, as riverboat captains used them as a landmark to pinpoint their position.

From the Romans to the Stewarts

The interior of the home has been carefully restored

In 1836, Jacques Telesphore Roman acquired Oak Alley from his brother-in-law, Valcour Aime. It was already a working sugar plantation with 57 slaves and a steam sugar mill. In 1837, Roman began construction on the current home, the first documented plantation home on the property. Completed in 1839, the house is a stunning example of Greek Revival architecture, and is constructed of solid brick. All walls are approximately 16 inches thick, and the home is surrounded by 28 columns, each 8 feet in circumference.

The family held onto Oak Alley until 1866, when son Henri was forced to sell it at auction. The plantation fell into an era of bad luck, as owner after owner experienced struggles and hardships. Fortunes finally reversed in 1925, when the plantation was purchased by Andrew and Josephine Stewart.

The Stewarts put a great deal of time and money into renovating Oak Alley, which had deteriorated significantly during periods of abandonment. Josephine Stewart outlived her husband and created a nonprofit foundation for the preservation of Oak Alley. Upon her death in 1972, ownership of the home and 25 acres of surrounding grounds transferred to the Foundation.

Oak Alley Today

Josephine Stewart's bedroom was left unchanged

Josephine Stewart’s nephew, Zeb Mayhew, Jr., was raised in New England but often vacationed at the plantation. He attended college at Tulane University in New Orleans and, as an adult, assumed control of the Oak Alley Foundation. He also inherited a portion of the surrounding plantation land from his Aunt Josephine. Over time, Zeb became the sole owner of the entire plantation, except the home and the 25 acres owned by the Foundation.

In 1996, the Foundation hired a highly respected Louisiana antiques dealer to oversee a massive restoration project. The goal was to recreate the look of Oak Alley during the Roman family’s era. Every room in the house has been redone except one. Josephine Stewart’s bedroom was left unchanged as a tribute to her legacy and hard work on behalf of Oak Alley.

The Creole cottages mix traditional charm with modern amenities

Today the plantation home is only part of Oak Alley’s allure. Those who wish to spend the night have a range of Creole cottages to choose from. The cottages are decorated in 19th century style, but offer such modern amenities as cable TV, Tempur-Pedic mattresses and wireless internet access. Cottages range in size from two-person getaways to an entire four-bedroom house perfect for larger groups.

Try the freshly made dishes at the on-site restaurant

The on-site restaurant, open for breakfast and lunch, serves a variety of freshly prepared Cajun and Creole dishes. Prices are surprisingly reasonable, and the portions are easily large enough to share. Those staying in the Creole cottages can order a boxed dinner, delivered to the cottage in heat-and-serve containers.

Connected to the restaurant, the gift shop is a true must-see. It contains a mind-boggling array of Oak Alley souvenirs, regional cookbooks and even handmade collectibles. Plan to spend at least 30 minutes shopping, or longer if you plan to browse through the massive collection of books.

Oak Alley Hauntings

The Oak Alley grounds are beautifully manicured

Ghost hunters will be pleased to know that Oak Alley appears to be a hotbed of paranormal activity. Visitors and staff members alike have reported experiences ranging from unusual sights and sounds to flying candlesticks. The property was investigated by the team from Syfy’s Ghost Hunters in 2008.

Oak Alley in Film

The plantation and grounds have been heavily featured in television and film since the 1960s. Perhaps the most famous film appearance was in 1994’s Interview with the Vampire, starring Brad Pitt and Tom Cruise. Oak Alley continues to welcome film crews, appearing in such recent television productions as The Young and the Restless and American Idol.

Tips for Parents

Food and beverages are not allowed inside the house, for obvious reasons

The expansive plantation grounds are larger than they appear at first glance. Massive swaths of manicured grass provide an excellent place for kids to run and play, burning off excess energy. Try to time the house tour, which lasts nearly an hour, for shortly after lunch. There is a lot to see, and most kids seem to love the tour, but it can feel like a long hour for parents if the kids are tired or hungry!

Food and beverages are not permitted inside the house, but can be carried around the grounds. Keep everyone hydrated in the Louisiana heat and humidity. Benches in the shade offer a great place to sit down and relax.

If anyone in the group is disabled, let the ticket booth operator know. Only the lower level of the house is accessible to those who have trouble with stairs. Everything else is wheelchair and stroller accessible, but the distances between things are long. The ticket booth operator can provide a pass allowing you to drive the back roads through the plantation grounds, parking close to each building.

New Orleans' City Park is a natural home for a gondola ride

New Orleans is known for many things, from world-class cuisine to a constant backdrop of jazz and blues music. But when Dad and I saw an authentic Venetian gondola plying the waters of City Park, it was a bit of a shock even for us jaded locals. We had the pleasure of a private sunset cruise on the NOLA Gondola last month.

About NOLA Gondola

The elegant Bella Mae

NOLA Gondola is currently a one-man operation that is doing a booming business. Gondolier Robert Dula became fascinated by gondolas as a child thanks to the James Bond film Moonraker. He told his mother at a very early age that his goal was to own one. In 2003, Robert finally got his chance. He commissioned a gondola from a company in Venice, naming it the Bella Mae after his mother.

Robert set up shop in Pensacola, Florida in March 2004, providing gondola rides to the public. But a hurricane named Ivan had other ideas. Shortly before Ivan made landfall in the early morning hours of September 16, 2004, Robert did the only thing he could–he actually sank the gondola, allowing it to ride out the storm underwater. While the Bella Mae survived beautifully, Robert’s home was not so fortunate. Faced with the utter loss of his home and the destruction of the tourism that fed his company, Robert relocated to New Orleans.

City Park provides a lovely backdrop

Filled with waterways and massive live oak trees, New Orleans’ City Park offers a stunning backdrop for a romantic boat ride. Robert reinvented his business as NOLA Gondola and began offering rides through City Park in early 2005.

In August 2005, Robert found himself reliving the horrors of the previous year. As a monster storm named Katrina set its sights on New Orleans, Robert again sank his beloved Bella Mae, this time near the New Orleans Museum of Art in City Park. Like many New Orleans residents, Robert decided to stay and ride out the hurricane. It was a decision that would turn him into a local hero. Although Robert downplays his role in the aftermath of Katrina, the costliest and one of the deadliest hurricanes on record, the entry he wrote for The Gondola Blog cannot be denied.

Robert Dula became a hometown hero during Katrina

Like everyone else who rode out the fateful storm, Robert believed that the city had been spared by the storm’s last-minute wobble to the east. After a day spent clearing downed trees with a chainsaw, he went to bed early on August 29, 2005. Awakening at 3 a.m., he realized that his home was starting to fill with water. After moving what possessions he could salvage to his second floor balcony, Robert set out to see what he could do to help.

Over the course of the next six days, Robert participated in the rescue effort with his brand-new kayak, and used the walkie-talkie feature on his cell phone to stay in touch with a gondolier contact in Boston. The phone link became a lifeline for friends and strangers who were unable to get in touch with loved ones outside the city. Robert faithfully collected phone numbers and relayed them to his Boston friend, who in turn made a seemingly endless chain of calls to update family members on their loved ones’ status. Robert’s rescue efforts culminated in the evacuation of his neighbors and their two large dogs. A helicopter swooped down to plunk everyone off the roof, but it was Robert who slung the dogs over his shoulder and carried them up a ladder through the attic and onto the roof.

Robert left with the group and ended up taking the last seat on a random flight. He did not know until he was on the plane that the destination was Denver, Colorado. He spent two weeks in the barracks at Lowry Air Force Base, and has only glowing praise and rave reviews for his hosts and the people of Denver. But as soon as New Orleans was ready for residents to return, Robert came home. His beloved Bella Mae had weathered the storm admirably, and he was ready to get back to work.

The NOLA Gondola Experience

The Bella Mae was commissioned from Venice

The Bella Mae seats up to six guests. A fabric-draped loveseat is perfect for two, while elegant chairs are available for the rest of the group. Robert provides cheese triangles, crackers and chocolates for all guests. You are welcome to bring your own alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverages, and an ice bucket is available on request. Blankets are provided when the weather is chilly.

Robert keeps life jackets for infants as well as adults

Safety is taken very seriously, and Robert keeps the gondola stocked with life jackets in a range of sizes from infant through adult. He provides a steadying hand during boarding and disembarking, and carefully loads the boat to provide an even distribution of weight.

Classical music offers a romantic backdrop on cruises for two, but Robert is happy to play whatever CDs your family provides. He also has a small lineup of specialty music, including a version of “Happy Birthday” featuring dogs barking the song, so be sure to ask!

At 1300 acres, City Park is nearly twice the size of New York’s Central Park. The waterways are quite extensive, spreading out in multiple directions and snaking through the Sculpture Garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art. Bring your camera, as the views are nearly unparalleled, even in a city that is well-known for its natural beauty. The local wildlife is familiar with the gondola and often comes quite close. Robert knows a great deal about the animals and their daily habits, and is happy to point out various creatures.

Tips for Parents

Travel through the Sculpture Garden on your ride

NOLA Gondola has become popular for birthday parties and other kids’ events. Robert is good-natured and happy to work with any particular theme or experience that you can dream up. He told us that pirate parties go over well with many kids, while others prefer to dress up and have an “elegant” experience. You know your kids best, so don’t hesitate to involve Robert in your plans.

Make sure that your kids are comfortable in and around the water before your ride. The gondola rides low, and you can definitely feel the motion of the boat. Although Robert is an excellent gondolier, excess moving around and playing could cause the boat to capsize. Remind your kids to stay seated throughout the cruise.

If anyone in your group is disabled, let Robert know when you make the reservation. The normal dock requires two steep steps down, first onto a chair and then into the boat itself. An alternate dock is available with a smaller step into the boat. Robert is happy to assist with boarding in any way possible, but it is best to bring an able-bodied companion that can help with transferring into the gondola.

The last steam-powered paddlewheeler in New Orleans

The Mighty Mississippi River has been inextricably linked with New Orleans since its earliest days. During the 19th century, when cotton was king, New Orleans was its most important port. In those days, the river was filled with steamboats of every description, carrying travelers on business and pleasure trips. Today the Port of New Orleans remains the centerpiece of the busiest port complex in the world, but steamboats are largely a thing of the past. The Natchez is the last remaining steam-powered paddlewheeler in New Orleans.

The Ship

The Natchez at dock

Commissioned in 1975, the current Natchez is the ninth ship to carry the name. The steam engines were originally built in 1925 for the sternwheeler Clairton, while the copper bell comes from the J.D. Ayres. The ship features a 32-note calliope and endless touches designed to evoke a more genteel era, including live jazz music on every cruise. Like her predecessors, the Natchez has never lost a steamboat race.

Virtually all areas of the ship are open to the public including the engine room, so take time to look around. The calliope plays a short concert before each sailing, which can be heard throughout Jackson Square.

The Cruise

The fully-narrated harbor cruise is great for kids

Dad and I chose the daytime Harbor Jazz Cruise, which boards daily at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. An evening Dinner Jazz Cruise is also available, with boarding at 6 p.m. Although both cruises welcome children, we both feel that the daytime cruise has more to offer for very young kids. The evening cruise has a bit more focus on dinner and dancing, while the daytime cruise offers a fully-narrated look at the New Orleans-area waterfront.

The optional Creole lunch was fantastic

We arrived at approximately 1:30 for our 2 p.m. cruise and there was already a long line to board the ship. We had tickets on hold, which necessitated a stop by the Lighthouse ticket booth on the pier. The Lighthouse handles tickets for a wide range of tours, and it was quite busy. Pick up your tickets in advance if possible.

Although the line was long, boarding was relatively quick and painless. You must stop for the obligatory tourist photo, billed as a necessary security measure. Your photo will be on display for sale as you leave the boat, but there is no pressure to buy.

We decided to purchase tickets for the optional Creole lunch (you must buy these before you board), so we headed directly for the elegant dining room. Lunch was served cafeteria-style, and we soon settled at a table by the window. The food was excellent! The menu that day included Creole fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, creamed spinach with artichoke hearts, coleslaw, baked beans, jalapeno and cheddar cornbread, fresh fruit and bread pudding. Menus change periodically, so your meal may be different. Everything is prepared fresh on the boat, and the quality was quite high.

You'll pass Jackson Square shortly after departure

Take your food outside if you want to get photos of Jackson Square and various French Quarter landmarks as you sail past. We chose the dining room, and I ended up dashing out to the open deck mid-meal to grab a few shots! If you are not taking pictures, though, the view from the dining room windows is just fine.

The engine room is well worth a visit

After lunch, we strolled around the boat, again rushing outside to take photos of interesting landmarks along the shoreline. The gift shop is small, but has some exclusive Natchez souvenirs. The Texas Bar, a beautiful but unpretentious small watering hole on the third deck, is a great place for the adults to relax with an alcoholic beverage. The paddle wheel was also fun to see up close. But as a former Navy man, Dad was most excited to see the engine room.

The engine room is visually stunning, though hot and steamy. Descriptive signage on the walls tells the story of the engines’ history, and explains how everything works. The engine operators are friendly and willing to answer questions, so don’t hesitate to ask. Although everything is fairly well chained off, keep a close eye on the kids. The heavy, moving parts could be dangerous, so keep them well back.

When we were finished exploring, we settled into deck chairs, eventually spending a bit of time on each of the three decks. The cruise is relaxing, allowing you to slip into a mindset that time no longer matters. There is a strong sense of connection with both the past and the future as the narrator discusses both historic and current events.

Tips for Parents

We took some time to relax on deck

Take your kids on a walk around the ship rather than expecting them to stay in one place for the two-hour duration. There is a lot to see and explore, and most kids we saw seemed fascinated. Let them take the lead, and be prepared to answer questions. Some children become absorbed by the narration, while others seem to tune it out. Try to listen as much as you can, so that if your child asks “What’s that?” you will have an answer for her.

Children under age six cruise for free, with a nominal charge for the optional lunch. Kids aged six to twelve receive a small discount off the adult price. If you prefer not to spring for a full lunch, sandwiches and drinks are available a la carte.

If anyone in your group is unable to negotiate stairs, you will be able to visit only the main level of the ship. The dining room and open deck are wheelchair-accessible, though some doorways have small lips. Nonetheless, the cruise is worthwhile even for those with mobility impairments.

New Orleans' Cities of the Dead were born of necessity

New Orleans is sometimes known as the “City in a Bowl”. The original city, today’s French Quarter, is approximately eight feet above sea level. Much of the rest of the city is well below. New Orleans relies on a complicated system of levees and underground pumps to prevent it from filling with water after a hard rain.

Of course, early settlers had neither pumps nor levees. Cemeteries were traditionally built on the outskirts of town, where neither disease nor restless spirits could disturb city-dwellers. Early burials were placed underground, but the high water table and frequent rains often led to coffins popping out and floating down the city streets! Clearly another system was needed.

Above-ground tombs solved many problems

Above-ground tombs were the solution. Wealthy families built elaborate crypts and mausoleums. Many social societies and workers’ unions built communal tombs, allowing workers and their families to buy in for much less than the price of a family crypt. For the poor, wall ovens, a crude but effective solution, were available for rent. Paupers were still sometimes buried underground in unmarked mass graves, weighted down to try to avoid their popping back up.

Cities of the Dead

The cemeteries look like small cities

New Orleans’ cemeteries are often referred to as Cities of the Dead. The imposing mausoleums look like elegant homes with complicated design features, some surrounded by iron fences. The cemetery roads are generally paved and feature street signs. Deep in the heart of a cemetery, traffic noise is muffled and the rest of the city impossible to see. Time seems to stand still as gentle breezes whistle through massive live oak trees, creating a cityscape unlike any other in the world.

Tomb Construction

Wall ovens and private crypts are two common choices

All of the New Orleans above-ground tombs function in roughly the same way. In the New Orleans heat and humidity, the massive structures function as slow crematoriums. After a year and a day, the body has been reduced to ash, along with the thin burial coffin or shroud. It is then a simple matter of sweeping the remains to the back or into a catch basin at the bottom of the tomb and placing the next body inside. This allows literally dozens of people to be buried in the same space.

Wall ovens work on the same principle as all other above-ground tombs. Rather than elaborate mausoleums, however, they simply consist of dozens of coffin-sized vaults arranged in long rows and columns. A poor family might rent a wall oven for a year and a day, at which point it could be reused by another renter. Even wealthy families occasionally used wall ovens, if a second family member died before the year and a day was up for their family vault. The wealthy person’s remains could then be transferred to the family crypt.

Cemetery Walking Tours

We chose to tour with Historic New Orleans Tours

Dozens of companies offer walking tours of New Orleans’ most famous cemeteries, including St. Louis Number One on Basin Street and Lafayette Cemetery in the Garden District. Proverbial wisdom states that you should never go into a cemetery alone because the massive crypts provide hiding places for petty thieves. I find this to be marketing hype for the tour companies, however. Many of the old family tombs are still active, and on any given day it is not unusual to see relatives decorating a tomb or even having a picnic in the cemetery. I have toured the cemeteries alone and never felt unsafe.

The tomb of legendary voodoo queen Marie Laveau

Nonetheless, if you are a history buff, I do recommend taking a tour of St. Louis Number One. As the oldest existing New Orleans cemetery, dating to 1789, it contains a veritable who’s who of important historic figures from voodoo queen Marie Laveau to Homer Plessey of the landmark Plessey v. Ferguson civil rights case. While it is possible to find these tombs on your own, a good tour guide can provide an excellent overview of New Orleans history, using the cemetery as a jumping-off point.

Our Visit to St. Louis Number One

St Expedite--the patron saint of hurried people?

We chose the “Cemetery and Voodoo Tour” offered by Historic New Orleans Tours. We met our tour guide, David, at Café Beignet, a small eatery next door to the Eighth District Police Precinct on Royal Street. He provided some introductory remarks before leading us to Our Lady of Guadalupe Church on Rampart Street, where the tour really began. The small church, built in 1826, is still active today. It was built as a burial church during the yellow fever epidemic and is the oldest original church building in New Orleans.

Perhaps the most interesting of the church’s mysteries is the statue of St. Expedite. As the legend goes, when the church was built it received statues of various saints from Europe. But one box contained a statue that was unlabeled.

Searching the box for a clue, workers noticed a single word stamped on the outside of the container: Expedite. So they named him St. Expedite and put him on display, where he remains today.

Easy Rider was the first-and last-movie filmed here

Leaving the church, we walked through a small grotto before exiting near the cemetery. Inside the cemetery, David demonstrated a nearly encyclopedic knowledge of New Orleans history and culture, leading us through the maze of tombs and stopping to share stories at particularly notable spots.

Incidentally, although it is not appropriate for children, make sure all the adults in your group have seen the 1969 film Easy Rider before your visit. It was the only movie granted permission by the Archdiocese to film in St. Louis Number One, and the film’s content virtually guaranteed that no other movie will ever be given that opportunity.

The Voodoo Temple was quite interesting to see

After the cemetery, David escorted us to an authentic voodoo temple on Rampart Street, where we spent some time with Priestess Miriam. The temple and outdoor courtyard offered a shady spot to relax, and Priestess Miriam was a gracious hostess.

The kids in our group seemed fascinated by the entire tour. Naturally, some of the information went over the heads of the youngest, but they remained engaged and involved despite the heat and humidity. David was excellent at presenting a lot of information in a succinct and easy-to-follow way, and his presentation style was appropriate for the wide range of ages in the group.

Lafayette Cemetery

Lafayette Cemetery is the oldest planned cemetery in New Orleans

Located in the heart of the Garden District, across the street from the world-famous Commander’s Palace restaurant, Lafayette Cemetery is New Orleans’ oldest planned cemetery. It was established in 1833 on a portion of the former Livaudais plantation that was used for burials since 1824. Lafayette Cemetery is frequently mentioned in Anne Rice’s books, including the Vampire Chronicles and the Witching Hour series. It was used in filming Interview with the Vampire and numerous other movies. We elected to tour on our own, but cemetery tours are readily available from a wide variety of companies.

Canal Street Cemeteries

At the end of Canal Street, where it intersects with City Park Avenue, is a collection of six notable cemeteries. If you enjoy the dark beauty and architecture of the cemeteries, it is easy to simply take the Canal Streetcar from the French Quarter and explore all six at your leisure. If you are pressed for time, however, two in particular are not to be missed.

Gates of Prayer Cemetery

Gates of Prayer is the oldest Jewish cemetery in New Orleans

Built in 1846, the Gates of Prayer, located at Canal and Bernadotte, is the oldest existing Jewish cemetery in New Orleans. Unlike many New Orleans cemeteries that have room to drive through, Gates of Prayer is tightly packed. Street parking is readily available nearby. Burial underground is a strong Jewish tradition, leading to an unusual burial method in New Orleans. Rather than the above-ground mausoleums of the Catholic cemetery, Gates of Prayer mostly features gravesites that are built up above ground level and covered in earth. Many of the inscriptions are in Hebrew, particularly on the oldest tombstones.

Charity Hospital Cemetery and Katrina Memorial

The Hurricane Katrina memorial was quite touching

The old Charity Hospital Cemetery, more commonly known as Potter’s Field, was a pauper’s mass gravesite. Located at 5050 Canal Street, it was unusual in that burials took place directly in the ground. The cemetery opened in 1847 and the majority of burials were related to the yellow fever and malaria epidemics of the 19th century. The cemetery closed to the public toward the end of the 20th century, with bodies that would have been buried there cremated instead.

Located in the midst of the Cities of the Dead, in a section of New Orleans that took heavy flooding from Katrina, the property was the perfect site to erect an elaborate Hurricane Katrina memorial. The memorial consists of two sets of wall ovens, entirely black with no markings, in a curved layout surrounding a central memorial wall. Benches are located near the center. The design of the memorial replicates the shape of a hurricane. Plaques on the memorial wall describe Katrina’s impacts on the city, and the wall ovens hold human remains that were never identified or claimed.

The memorial is quite touching, and is definitely worth a visit. You may want to visit the Presbytere, located in Jackson Square, beforehand. The first-floor exhibit “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond” helps to put the entire disaster into perspective.

Tips for Parents

Perpetual Care has been mandatory since 1984

The weather in New Orleans is frequently hot and humid, and it can easily be ten degrees hotter in the middle of a cemetery. Carry bottled water or sports drinks, and make sure that everyone stays well hydrated. Carrying a few snacks is also recommended, since it is easy to lose track of time.

Follow your kids’ lead and be prepared for questions. New Orleans funeral rituals are eye-catching and exotic, and many children seem fascinated by their surroundings. Keep an eye on your kids, as the walkways can be quite uneven and it is easy to get lost.

Since 1984, all new Catholic cemetery tombs in New Orleans must carry Perpetual Care, charged as a one-time fee. Before 1984, however, it was optional. Perpetual Care gives the cemetery responsibility for upkeep and maintenance of the tomb. Without it, those items were left to the individual families. As families died out or moved away, neglected tombs began to crumble in the Louisiana sun. Some tombs have been re-plastered and repainted by preservationists, but many continue to rot away. This adds a certain layer of either charm or disgust, depending on your thoughts on the matter.

The Cities of the Dead have a two-fold appeal for many visitors. The striking beauty and exotic nature of the above-ground mausoleums make them a favorite for photographers, while the individual graves tell the story of New Orleans’ unique history and culture. The cemeteries are still in use today, and it is possible that you will witness one of New Orleans’ famed jazz funerals during your stay.

The wetlands form an important storm buffer for New Orleans

Just outside New Orleans, solid ground gives way to swamps and marshes. Swamps technically refer to water over land, while marshes refer to land over water. Southeast Louisiana has an eclectic mix of both. When New Orleans was settled in 1718, the wetlands provided a great deal of protection from hurricanes, slowing down storms as they crossed the mixture of water and solid ground.

As New Orleans grew into the most significant port city in the antebellum cotton trade, new channels were cut to divert the Mississippi River and make it easier for large ships to reach the docks. Construction of these channels continued well into the 20th century. These channels, particularly the Mississippi River Gulf Outlet, made it impossible for the wetlands to replenish themselves and they began to disappear. The receding wetlands were implicated as one of many causes that led to the disaster in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina.

The bayou offers a slower pace of life

Meanwhile, the bayou, a Native American word for slow water, defined the Louisiana way of life outside the city from prehistory through the 20th century. Even today, many homes are built facing the water, allowing boat travelers to pull up to the front door. Roads may connect to the back of the house, but the front is still considered the “company entrance.”

Swamp tours, often conducted by those who have lived on the bayou for generations, are easy to access from New Orleans. These tours allow visitors to traverse the bayou, learn more about the local Cajun population and experience the state’s abundant wildlife up close. We chose Cajun Pride as our tour operator.

About Cajun Pride

Our tour boat

Although Cajun Pride is a local staple, manager Paul Bair took the reins only the day before our visit. A highly knowledgeable swamp tour operator with nearly 20 years in the business, he has ensured a seamless transition and top-notch guest experience. He was full of stories, including the fact that local police officers sometimes stop along the bridge to feed the alligators!

Tour boat operators are carefully screened and chosen for their combination of skill and knowledge. Our boat driver lives on the bayou in a modern home built in the traditional Cajun cabin style. He says that in the small bayou communities, there is no need to lock the doors. At worst, someone might “break in” (by walking through the open door), make a cup of coffee or borrow a cigarette from an open pack, clean up after himself and leave again. Worlds apart from the big city of New Orleans!

The alligators love marshmallows. Who knew?

Cajun Pride owns a vast swath of private bayou in the Manchac Swamp. The privacy ensures that your tour will not be interrupted by water skiers or pleasure boaters. The animals are calm and used to the tour boats, protected from hunting and other human dangers.

About Manchac Swamp

Investigated by the team from A&E’s Extreme Paranormal, the Manchac Swamp is considered one of the most haunted spots on Earth. As the legend goes, the area was cursed by a voodoo queen, leading to the 1915 claiming of three small villages in a massive hurricane. The swamp is also one of the alleged habitats of the rougarou, a mythical Cajun swamp monster.

About the Tour

Guides are excellent at getting you right next to the wildlife

Tours depart from LaPlace, approximately 27 miles from downtown New Orleans. Shuttle bus service is available for an additional fee, and pickups are offered from most area hotels. If you choose to take your own car, follow the directions on the website rather than using your GPS. Several brands of GPS give directions to the middle of a residential street rather than the docks.

You can take a swamp tour only, or combine it with one of many additional tours. Several historic plantations are located near the boat dock, making them an excellent choice for a combination tour. Alternately, you might choose a tour of New Orleans.

One boat is wheelchair-accessible, so call and request it when you make your reservations. The shuttle buses can accommodate collapsible strollers and wheelchairs, but does not have a wheelchair lift or space for larger wheelchairs or ECVs.

Guides feed raw chicken to the occasional alligator

The swamp tour is fully narrated by an expert guide. The tour route is filled with dozens of alligators, snakes, birds, nutria (rat-like creatures that can approach the size of a small dog) and other water-based wildlife. The guides are excellent at spotting animals from quite a distance, and bringing the boat around to place you right next to various creatures. Along the way, you will also hear stories and legends associated with the unique Cajun bayou culture.

Gator Feeding

One of the most exciting parts of the tour is the feeding of alligators and other wildlife. The guides use marshmallows to lure animals closer to the boat. The sweet treats seem equally popular among gators, turtles and even birds. Additionally, the guides feed the occasional gator with raw chicken attached to a long metal pole. The gators excitedly go after the chicken, allowing you to take photos of them leaping from the water.

Beyond the Animals

This Cajun cabin is still maintained

Along the banks is a tiny abandoned cemetery, its iron fence nearly destroyed by time and weather. It is the only remaining evidence of a vibrant community of 300 people. This was one of the villages completely wiped off the map by the Great Storm of 1915.

You will also pass a small, traditional Cajun cabin. Although it has not been used as a home in more than 50 years, it is still maintained. The floating cabin can operate as a houseboat if needed. When school education was mandated, bayou kids had to traverse the waterways by boat, sometimes for several miles until they reached solid ground. Then they had to walk to school. This was tough on small children, so many families simply took the house to shore and tied up while the kids were at school, moving back to their home location at night.

In 2009, the CW network introduced a television show called 13: Fear Is Real. Isolated in the Louisiana bayou, contestants had to face a series of difficult and frightening tasks to avoid “death.” In a twist designed to make them fear each other as well as the situation, the show also introduced a “death box.” The secret holder of the box could “kill” fellow contestants. The last contestant standing won $66,666. Although not well-received critically, the show highlighted the creepy side of the Southeast Louisiana bayou. The show was filmed in Manchac Swamp, with Cajun Pride’s assistance. Some of the tasks took place on Cajun Pride boats.

Tips for Parents

You'll even get to hold a baby alligator

We shared a boat with kids of all ages, and everyone seemed quite content. There is so much to look at, and many of the kids competed to see who could spot animals first. The scarier aspects, such as the legend of the rougarou, are handled with good humor, making kids more likely to laugh than cry. The guides carry a baby alligator on board, and pass it around to guests. Keep your camera ready, as this is a great photo opportunity! Snacks and beverages are allowed on the boats, but there are no restrooms on board. Check out the small but adorable gift ship attached to the tour office.

Tarot and palmists readers practicing their trade

New Orleans’ Jackson Square is a study in contrasts. Tourists surge through on their way to dinner reservations at Muriel’s on the Square as homeless kids known as gutter punks huddle in a doorway. Balloon artists delight children with intricate balloon animals as a young man painted silver stands motionless on a milk crate, a sign asking for tips in front of him. But perhaps no contrast is more striking than the juxtaposition of a row of tarot readers and fortune tellers set up with camp chairs and folding tables in front of the elegant St. Louis Cathedral, the oldest Catholic cathedral in the United States.

The Role of Voodoo

Shops carrying voodoo items

Perhaps nowhere else on Earth are the religions of voodoo and a form of ”so-called” Catholicism are as interconnected as they are in New Orleans. Many so-called practicing Catholics often visit the city’s voodoo shops, while some of the most legendary voodoo priests and priestesses have been regular attendees at Mass. In places where both religions exist side by side, people have been shaped and changed by their exposure to them, creating a highly tolerant if a somewhat mixed-up culture.

The History of Religion in New Orleans

Many slaves were baptized in this Cathedral

In order to understand the complex relationship between various religions in New Orleans today, it is necessary to understand the city’s religious roots. New Orleans was founded by French Catholics. Much of the early population consisted of pirates, prostitutes and other criminals, who were granted early release from French prisons in exchange for building a city in a swamp in the New World. Control was ceded to Spain in 1763 and then back to France in 1801. In 1803, the Louisiana Purchase gave New Orleans to the United States.

Slavery was very much alive in the 1700s and 1800s and, as a major port town, New Orleans quickly developed the largest slave market in the United States. The Haitian Revolts of 1791 and 1804 brought a flood of both whites and free people of color, most of whom brought slaves with them. Haitian slaves and free people of color brought their native religion of voodoo with them.

Just a few symbolic voodoo items

In most antebellum cities, slaves were forbidden to gather. New Orleans, however, is to this day governed by a civil code that is largely based on 1800s Napoleonic Code (the only modern U.S. city to do so). In addition, the city’s black population was at the time governed by the Code Noir which, while setting strict limits, also mandated that slaves have Sundays and holidays off work. They were permitted to gather in Congo Square, across Rampart Street from the French Quarter. Slaves established an open-air market and joined together in song and dance. This allowed the slaves the opportunity to practice their native voodoo religion.

Meanwhile, most slave masters chose to baptize their slaves in the Catholic Church. Slaves and free people of color were permitted to attend Sunday services, and many did so quite faithfully. It was common for them to attend Mass and then gather in Congo Square for voodoo rituals.

Many of the white settlers in New Orleans were fascinated by the voodoo culture and it actually became a trend, similar to some of the New Age practices of today. But it took a highly shrewd African-American woman to jumble Catholicism and voodoo in New Orleans.

Marie Laveau

A portrait of voodoo queen Marie Laveau

Marie Laveau was the daughter of a white planter and a free woman of color, born in the French Quarter around 1794. She married Haitian immigrant and free black man Jacques Paris in 1814 and, following his death in 1820, entered a common-law marriage with Christophe Glapion. The couple had 15 children.

After the death of her first husband, Laveau took a job as a hairdresser catering to wealthy white women. According to reports she mixed Catholicism with other religious African concepts. But Laveau was best known as a voodoo priestess. Today, some say that she was merely an excellent listener and clever businesswoman, able to put together bits and pieces that she overheard along with creative deduction to tell people what they wanted to hear. Others claim that she was the most powerful voodoo queen ever. She was also said to have defeated the aging process, although now most feel that her eldest daughter quietly took over the Laveau role when the mother grew older.

Regardless of the truth behind Marie Laveau, she became a near-mythic figure to her contemporaries at all levels of society. Wealthy society women and poor slaves alike went to her for potions, spells, and words of comfort. In later years, Marie Laveau (either mother or daughter) invited curiosity seekers to view elaborate voodoo rituals in Bayou St. John on St. John’s Eve. Voodoo became deeply rooted in the culture of New Orleans, practiced by those of every dubious religious background and every standing in society.

Religious Evolution

St Louis Cathedral is a minor basilica and the oldest Cathedral in the United States

With voodoo and paganism inextricably linked to New Orleans, the door was open for religions of all stripes to flourish in 20th century here. New immigrants brought their own traditions, from Protestantism to Judaism. Although Catholicism remains dominant, virtually every religion imaginable can be found in modern-day New Orleans, peacefully coexisting and sharing many crossover traditions.

Jackson Square

Jackson Square's elegance hides a rather sordid past

Known as the Place d’Armes until 1814, when it was renamed in honor of the Battle of New Orleans, Jackson Square has always been a hub of New Orleans life. The Cathedral is flanked by the Presbytere, once a residence for the city’s Catholic priests, and the Cabildo, originally City Hall. Yet the center of the Square was also the site of public hangings, where disobedient slaves were executed and dismembered, then used to decorate the city gates.

Since its earliest days, New Orleans has drawn those who want to disappear, create a new life or simply reinvent themselves. It is said that legendary pirate Jean Lafitte owned a blacksmith shop on Bourbon Street (today a bar that has changed little since the 1700s) and ran a black market beside the Cathedral in what is now known as Pirate’s Alley.

Jackson Square has long been a free speech zone and hub for religious debate

With so much history, it was only natural for free spirits, hippies and travelers to find themselves in Jackson Square. By the 1920s, the Square was a haven for artists from professionals to students. The 1960s and 1970s saw the beginnings of the Square as a place of business for pagans and New Age devotees telling fortunes and reading palms and tarot cards.

One of the most influential early tarot readers was Jerik Danerson. Born in California in 1946, Jerik developed a strong early interest in ancient religions, particularly the Norse traditions. He became immersed in modern paganism in the 1960s and made his way to New Orleans. Setting up a tarot and palm-reading stand in Jackson Square, Jerik went on to found a new path of Wicca known as Southshire, which in turn influenced countless additional paths.

While most travelers float into New Orleans and back out again, Jerik put down roots. He practiced his trade on the corner of St. Ann Street for more than 30 years until his death in 2009. Jerik was also a stable influence, friend and surrogate father for street kids and gutter punks, homeless teens and young adults who found themselves alone in New Orleans. Food, clothing and even shelter were theirs for the asking, and he was happy to train them as palmists and tarot readers and let them work alongside him on the Square. Jerik was one of my first friends when I moved to New Orleans, and I was proud to call him my adopted uncle. Sadly, my photos of Jerik were lost in Hurricane Katrina.

Touring New Orleans’ Religious History

The statue of Jesus casts a welcoming shadow on the Cathedral at night

Today it is easy to take a walk through the religious history of New Orleans without ever leaving the French Quarter. St. Louis Cathedral, located on Jackson Square, is open to the public. Voodoo queen Marie Laveau is buried in St. Louis Cemetery #1, on Basin Street between St. Louis and Conti. Her grave is easy to find thanks to the red X’s and voodoo markings that decorate the vault. It is best to visit the cemetery with a tour group, as there are sometimes pickpockets and petty criminals.

The Voodoo Museum

Stop by the Voodoo Museum on Dumaine Street to learn more about the religion’s history, at Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop at St. Peter and Bourbon Street. Then, if you are so inclined, stroll through Jackson Square and have your fortune told. Whether you believe in fortune telling or not, the readers are highly entertaining and work strictly for tips. $10 to $20 is average, though you may give more or less.

New Orleans is one-of-a-kind in many ways, and perhaps none more so than its complicated web of religious traditions. Whatever your belief system may be, take some time out to explore. In many ways, the history of New Orleans’ religions is the history of its unique culture.

Whether you believe in ghosts or not, the French Quarter is creepy at night

New Orleans’ history is dotted with violence, disease, natural disasters and mysterious disappearances. Paranormal experts claim that the veil between the living and the dead is thinner in New Orleans, giving explanations that range from ley lines to voodoo curses. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, in New Orleans the truth is often stranger than fiction.

In a place that was founded by pirates and prostitutes, in an inhospitable swamp where plagues, fires and natural disasters were everyday occurrences, a seedy underbelly was inevitable. If you are in the mood to be spooked or just interested in New Orleans’ dark past, a ghost tour is an exciting way to spend an evening.

About the Tours

The oldest continuously operating pub in America is bound to be haunted

As a long-time French Quarter resident, I strongly recommend Haunted History. Featured on the Discovery Channel, the History Channel and dozens of other media outlets, Haunted History prides itself on presenting well-researched, provable stories alongside a bit of theatrical “what-if” speculation. In the French Quarter alone, Haunted History offers separate tours that focus on vampires, ghosts or voodoo.

Haunted History guides are theatrical but not over the top

Haunted History offers walking tours that stop outside various haunted properties. Tours are nearly two hours in length and offer one or two pub stops. Kids are welcome on the tours, and the guides are terrific at capturing children’s interest. As of 2011, regular price is $20 for adults, $17 for students and seniors, and $10 for ages 5 to 12. Kids under 5 are free. A printable coupon on the company’s website offers $3 off, while coupons in tourist magazines offer $2 off.

Haunted History guides are highly theatrical without going over the top. Expect gothic-style clothing, lanterns and other fun touches. They also have a nearly encyclopedic knowledge of the city as well as the details of the cases they present. If you have any questions about a stop on the tour or the city as a whole, feel free to ask. Guides are a great source of information on everything from the best place to eat to the most overrated tourist attractions.

What You Will See

Each guide has a list of favorite stops

All tour guides are required to learn a long list of ghost, voodoo and vampire legends, many more than would possibly fit into a single tour. In addition, guides sometimes learn of new tales and, with proper research and documentation, are permitted to add those stories to their tours. Each guide crafts his or her own tour based on personal interest, and may change things up from time to time. Consequently, no two tours are ever exactly the same.

Sample Site: LaLaurie Mansion

Guides do a fantastic job of drawing in the crowd

Located at 1140 Royal Street, the LaLaurie Mansion is one of New Orleans’ most famous paranormal sites. It is featured on most of the ghost tours and often mentioned on the vampire and voodoo tours. As the story goes, Madame Delphine LaLaurie was born in New Orleans in 1775. Following the mysterious disappearances of her first two husbands, she married Dr. Louis LaLaurie in 1825 and the couple moved to 1140 Royal Street in 1832.

The daughter of wealthy Creoles, Madame LaLaurie was accustomed to the finer things in life. She quickly became the most prominent Creole woman in New Orleans, managing her own affairs with little involvement by her husband and hosting elaborate parties in the home that seemed custom-designed for entertaining. By all accounts, she was beautiful, intelligent and extremely attentive to her guests’ every desire.

As was common for those in her position, Madame LaLaurie owned several slaves. Some say that she appeared attentive and solicitous toward them, but rumors gradually spread that she was a cold and heartless mistress. A local lawyer paid a visit to the home to remind the couple of local laws governing the treatment of slaves, but found no evidence of wrongdoing.

The LaLaurie mansion still stands today

Shortly thereafter, however, eyewitnesses reported a young slave girl dashing out onto the balcony of the LaLaurie home. Madame LaLaurie was allegedly hot on her heels, brandishing a whip. In an attempt to escape from the beating, the slave girl fell to her death on the sidewalk below. The LaLauries were charged with illegal cruelty and forced to forfeit nine slaves. But relatives purchased those slaves and returned them to the LaLaurie mansion.

A fire broke out at the LaLaurie home on April 10, 1834, apparently started by the cook, who was said to have been kept chained to the stove. Bystanders asked Madame LaLaurie for the key to the slave quarters, but were refused. On breaking down the door, they discovered the LaLauries’ shocking secret: apparently numerous slaves were found chained and mutilated, some barely alive and others having died some time before. Some sources claim that the couple was performing gruesome medical experiments on still-living slaves.

By the next morning, a mob had gathered. While the whereabouts of Dr. LaLaurie are unknown, Madame LaLaurie emerged from the house and stepped into a waiting carriage. With the mob in hot pursuit, the carriage sped away through the streets of the French Quarter and on to Bayou St. John. Madame LaLaurie booked passage to Mandeville, north of New Orleans. What became of her is not known. Some say she hid out with relatives in the area. Some say she went to Paris. There is even a rumor that she may have escaped to Jamaica, transforming herself into the White Witch of Rose Hall, though this appears to be a fanciful connection between two similar legends.

The mansion at 1140 Royal Street still stands, and is reputed to be haunted. As the story goes, later businesses were plagued with bad luck. After the building’s conversion to apartments, it has been nearly impossible to keep tenants. Apparitions, strange noises and smells, and vague feelings of foreboding have all been reported.

Tips for Parents

The gate to the Old Ursuline Convent opened mysteriously as I approached

Tours depart multiple times per night. The earlier tours are typically less crowded, but depending on the time of year, it may not be fully dark yet. Later tours, particularly on the weekends, are more likely to draw drunk or rowdy tourists. If you are visiting during Mardi Gras or another festival, book your tour as early as possible. Tours commonly sell out during these events.

Prepare your kids in advance for the tour. In our experience, kids take in whatever they are ready to process and everything else goes right over their heads. Nonetheless, an open dialogue can help keep children from being frightened or disturbed. Explain that they will hear some scary stories, but those things happened a long time ago and there is nothing to fear now. Also give them some basic information about the city’s history to help give the stories some context.

The stories are scary but fascinating

Be prepared for questions, and don’t hesitate to involve your guide if you don’t know the answers. Kids are perceptive, and may be curious about the details of various stories.

Take lots of pictures. If you see anything unusual, let your tour guide know. Many of the buildings are still under active paranormal investigation, and guest reports are always welcome.

Keep a close eye on your kids. The streets are narrow and both streets and sidewalks are uneven. In the dark, paying attention to the guide, it would be easy for them to trip and fall. Also make sure that they are standing on the sidewalk rather than in the road during each stop. As many of the guides say, you don’t want to become the next attraction on the tour!

We lived half a block from here

Before we decided to travel full-time in our RV, Dad and I lived in the French Quarter of New Orleans. Living in the Quarter is so much different than visiting, as I would imagine is true for any extremely popular tourist destination. For example, Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop is a hugely crowded tourist bar on Bourbon Street. It was also half a block from our apartment. I used to love going into the bar in my pajamas at 4 a.m. to use the ATM, entirely freaking out all the tourists who were dressed to the nines!

We got our mail at 1000 Bourbon Street

We only had a mail slot at our apartment, so we had all packages sent to the French Quarter Postal Emporium, located at 1000 Bourbon Street. More than once, we were on the phone with someone giving them the delivery address. The response went roughly like this: “Bourbon Street?!?! I’ve never sent anything to Bourbon Street before! You mean people actually LIVE there?!?”

We left New Orleans in 2007, and Mardi Gras this year was our first opportunity to return. While many of the faces have changed, the Quarter still feels like our neighborhood. The feeling was just what anyone would have when going home after a few years away. But New Orleans is a welcoming place, where anyone from anywhere can feel at home within a matter of days. With that in mind, here’s your guide to doing the French Quarter Local-Style.

Getting Your Bearings

The French Quarter sits along the banks of the Mississippi River

It’s hard to tour local-style if you don’t know where you are. Download or purchase a map of the French Quarter before you arrive and try to memorize as many of the streets as possible. Here are the major points to remember. The French Quarter is a 14-block by 7-block grid. Although this may sound like a lot, remember that the Quarter was laid out in the 1700s. Each block is less than half of a modern city block, and the entire Quarter is pedestrian-friendly and extremely walkable. Plan to park your car, if you have one, and explore the Quarter solely on foot.

The Quarter is bounded by the Mississippi River and Rampart Street in the 7-block direction, and Canal Street and Esplanade Avenue in the 14-block direction. Don’t worry about compass directions, as locals never use them. Just orient yourself according to the river, and you’ll be able to follow whatever directions you may be given.

The streetcars are both local transportation and tourist attraction

Past Esplanade is the Marigny, an up and coming artsy district where the locals like to hang out. Past Canal is the Central Business District and then the Garden District. All the street names change when you cross Canal, but the one you want to remember is St. Charles (which is Royal inside the Quarter). That’s where the historic streetcar runs, easily transporting you from the Quarter to the Garden District. Past Rampart is the Treme. If you’ve ever seen the HBO show Treme, it is set in this neighborhood in the post-Katrina rebuilding period. Be very careful if you explore the Treme though, as the neighborhood changes block by block from “funky and interesting” to “dangerous.”

Jackson Square and the Cathedral bisect the French Quarter

The Quarter is bisected by Orleans Street near Rampart and by Jackson Square, with the St. Louis Cathedral, near the river. From this area toward Esplanade is known as the Lower Quarter, while the area toward Canal is known as the Upper Quarter. The Upper Quarter is touristy, loud and contains most of the sightseeing attractions. The Lower Quarter is more residential, somewhat quieter and contains most of the local-oriented restaurants, bars and hangouts.

Where to Stay

The Andrew Jackson is one of many historic French Quarter hotels

The French Quarter and surrounding area offer plenty of moderate and high-end chain hotels, from the Holiday Inn to the Ritz-Carlton. While these properties are very nice, they are still chains. Why come to New Orleans to experience the same hotel room you could have in Peoria? The Quarter is filled with small, independent hotels and guest houses with a great deal of history. Some are reputed to be haunted.

Why not try out the Andrew Jackson Hotel, located on Royal Street in the residential Lower Quarter, which stands on the site of the courthouse where future President Andrew Jackson, already a war hero, was charged with contempt of court and obstruction of justice? Or how about the Dauphine Orleans, located in the tourist-oriented Upper Quarter, which was created from a collection of historic buildings? You might get a room in the cottage where John James Audubon painted his famous “Birds of America” series or one in a former bordello. If you prefer a more upscale atmosphere, try the Hotel Monteleone. It’s been one of New Orleans’ most luxurious (and haunted!) hotels since the 1880s.

What to See

World-famous Bourbon Street is a must-see. Once.

Without a doubt, you must see world-famous Bourbon Street. The epicenter of French Quarter tourist activity is the corner of Bourbon and St. Peter in the Upper Quarter. It’s fine to take younger children down Bourbon during the day, and even at night mid-week. Keep an open mind, as Bourbon Street makes no secret of its strip clubs, bars and lingerie shops, but your odds of seeing anything truly risqué out on the street are fairly low. Keep the kids away on weekend nights and particularly during Mardi Gras, when the anything-goes atmosphere is decidedly adult oriented.

The statue casts a wonderful shadow on the Cathedral at night

Once you’ve checked Bourbon Street off your list, move on. The truth is that most locals rarely visit Bourbon Street at all, except the section that stretches through the residential Lower Quarter. If you are interested in antiques and art galleries, head a block over to Royal Street. The collection of galleries is highly impressive. You’ll pass the back of the St. Louis Cathedral between St. Ann and St. Peter, so stop and check out the statue of Jesus.

Hurricane Katrina took down two immense live oak trees, one on each side of the statue. The trees broke the forefinger off one hand and the thumb off the other, but the statue remained standing. Relief workers found the pieces, but the Archdiocese decided not to repair the statue until the city is whole again.

The tarot readers ply their trade in the shadow of the Cathedral

Head down Pirate’s Alley, which runs beside the Cathedral. This is where infamous pirate Jean Lafitte allegedly set up a black market. If you’re in the mood for a break, the Pirate’s Alley bar has coffee and tea as well as a full menu of alcoholic beverages. If the adults are feeling particularly adventurous, try the absinthe. Legalized in the United States in 2007 after a nearly 100-year ban, absinthe was hugely popular in 1800s New Orleans.

Be sure to tour St. Louis Cathedral, an elegant minor basilica that is the oldest Catholic Cathedral in the United States. Then pay a visit to the fortune tellers in Jackson Square, just outside the Cathedral. They work for tips and are highly entertaining, even if you do not believe in palmistry or tarot. Take a break inside the park, where on warm afternoons you will find families playing in the grass or catching a nap.

Take a stroll along the river on the Moon Walk

Across Decatur Street from Jackson Square is the Moon Walk, a riverfront walking path named after former Mayor Moon Landrieu, father of current Mayor Mitch Landrieu and Senator Mary Landrieu. The view of the Mississippi River is well-worth the trek. As you face the river, the Riverwalk, a shopping complex that houses the New Orleans Cruise Terminal and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum is to your right, along with Harrah’s Casino. Across the river is Algiers, a small residential community. A free passenger ferry crosses the river at regular intervals until midnight, which you can catch at the foot of Canal Street.

Cafe du Monde is a French Quarter institution

When you have had your fill of the Moon Walk, stop by Café du Monde on Decatur Street. This French Quarter icon has served café au lait (chicory coffee with lots of milk) and beignets (French doughnuts coated in powder sugar) since 1862. Open 24 hours per day, 7 days per week, it closes only for Christmas and occasional hurricanes. The restaurant was spared during Hurricane Katrina, but took advantage of the down time when the city was under a mandatory evacuation order to perform some needed upgrades. It reopened in October 2005.

Now follow the river in the opposite direction from the Moon Walk to the French Market. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, this six-block combined flea market and farmer’s market has been in the same spot since 1791. Shopping opportunities are seemingly limitless, from fresh-picked produce to sunglasses and New Orleans souvenirs.

The Voodoo Museum gives a peek into New Orleans rich history

Lower Decatur Street is packed with low-priced restaurants, bars and shops of every description. Take a few minutes to look around before back tracking to Dumaine Street. Today Dumaine is sort of voodoo row, featuring the Voodoo Museum, Esoterica Occult Goods and the Voodoo Authentica shop. The Museum is well worth the price of admission which, as of 2011, is $7 for adults with discounts for students, seniors and children. Here you will find displays, photos and information detailing the history of voodoo in New Orleans. When you are finished, stop by one or both of the shops to get a sense of the role that voodoo plays in modern New Orleans life.

Tips for Parents

The acrobat troupe always draws a huge crowd

It would be easy to spend a month in the French Quarter and not see nearly everything. The Quarter is a vibrant community filled with colorful characters. Use this guide as a list of suggested highlights, not a hard and fast tour schedule. There are dozens of treasures not mentioned here, and it is very easy to get distracted by the events of the day. Relax, take your time and keep your eyes open. Walking parades known as second lines take place at seemingly random times. Street performers, from musicians to balloon artists, compete for attention. Spontaneous conversation with a local resident can turn into a day of lounging and chatting. New Orleans is the sort of place where it is best to slow down, say hello to everyone and expect utterly random good things to happen.

The Clover Grill is hugely popular. Read your menu closely for a good laugh!

Keep an eye on the kids, but let them feel free to explore (under your guidance). The French Quarter is a carnival for the senses, and you never know what may catch their eyes. Set some ground rules in advance for purchases, as there is a seemingly endless assortment of trinkets and souvenirs. Take frequent rest stops and keep everyone drinking water, as the heat and humidity can be intense. Try to tour on a sunny day, as rain tends to send locals and tourists alike scurrying for cover.

Although popular media depicts the French Quarter as an adult-oriented place, there are plenty of things for kids to enjoy. Confine your visit to Bourbon Street to daylight hours or early evening midweek, and you and your family can have a wonderful time exploring the rest of the Quarter local-style!