Jackson Square is a hub of life in the French Quarter

Jackson Square is the heart of New Orleans’ French Quarter in Louisiana. Overlooking the Mississippi River, Jackson Square has been a free speech zone and hub of activity since the city’s earliest days. Today the Square is filled nearly 24 hours a day with a mix of tarot readers, visual artists, mimes, musicians, tourists and homeless young adults, all mingling and interacting in ways that are nearly unheard of in other cities.

While it would be easy to simply get caught up in the rhythms of life in the Square, try not to miss the Louisiana State Museums that ring the Square, as well as the St. Louis Cathedral. All are well worth a visit by tourists and locals alike.

Getting Your Bearings

St. Louis Cathedral is flanked by two Louisiana State Museums

An imposing building that faces the Chartres Street pedestrian plaza in Jackson Square, St. Louis Cathedral is hard to miss. The cathedral is flanked by two buildings that are only slightly less impressive–the Cabildo and the Presbytere. On the right as you face the cathedral, the Cabildo was the seat of Spanish government in New Orleans. The current structure was built after the Great Fire of 1788 destroyed the original. To the left of the cathedral, the Presbytere was built as a clergy residence, though it was never used for that purpose. It was built in 1791 to match the Cabildo, and the second floor completed in 1813. Both buildings were used for governmental purposes before becoming part of the Louisiana State Museum in 1911.

The oldest continuously rented apartments in the United States

The massive red brick buildings along the St. Peter and St. Ann sides of Jackson Square are the Pontalba Buildings. Built as townhomes by Baroness Micaela Almonester de Pontalba in the 1840s, the apartments upstairs are still in use today. The first floor is rented to a variety of restaurants and shops. One townhome on the St. Ann side is maintained as it would have been in 1850 and serves as the Louisiana State Museum’s 1850 House.

Presbytere

Combination tickets for the three Louisiana State Museum buildings are available at any of the three properties. As of 2011, combo tickets are $12 for adults and $9.60 for students, seniors and military members. Children under age 12 are free.

Watch news footage of Katrina or read a moment by moment timeline

You might want to begin your Jackson Square tour at the Presbytere. “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond” is a fantastic, though heartbreaking, look at life before, during and after the historic destruction of Hurricane Katrina. The exhibit uses a variety of artifacts and techniques to make the story accessible for people of all ages and interests. A timeline spells out the exact sequence of events, while authentic news footage from New Orleans covers the evacuation, the warnings and the subsequent landfall.

Learn to read an emergency building marking

Sit in a small room with wind blowing as you watch actual rare footage of the storm’s fury. View Fats Domino’s piano, discovered in the remains of his 9th Ward home, and the axes used by residents to chop their way onto rooftops. Pick up a telephone to hear individual citizens tell their stories, or learn exactly what the markings left on homes by emergency workers actually meant. A film at the end wraps up the entire story but ends with a message of hope and inspiration.

St. Louis Cathedral

The magnificent St. Louis Cathedral is a minor basilica

St. Louis Cathedral is open to the public during the day whenever there are no services, weddings or special events taking place. Built in 1850, the current cathedral is the third church building on the site. The first, a wooden structure finished in 1727, burned in the Great Fire of 1788. A new building was begun in 1789 and completed in 1794. It was to be enlarged for the growing community in 1849, but structural damage forced the demolition of virtually the entire building. Nonetheless, St. Louis Cathedral is distinguished as the oldest continuously operating Roman Catholic cathedral in the United States.

Pope Paul VI designated St. Louis Cathedral a minor basilica in 1964, and Pope John Paul II visited in 1987. The cathedral’s soaring ceilings and elegant stained glass make it a favorite for religious pilgrims and photographers alike. Donations are accepted but are not required.

Take a quick stroll down Pere Antoine Alley to the back of the cathedral, which faces Royal Street. The statue of Jesus was once flanked by two massive live oak trees. Hurricane Katrina took down the trees, snapping off the forefinger of one hand and the thumb of the other in the process. Although both pieces were discovered during subsequent cleanup, the archdiocese decided not to repair the statue yet. It is said that the Church will repair the statue once the city is made whole, i.e. fully recovered from the storm.

Cabildo

The Cabildo houses priceless artifacts from throughout New Orleans' history

A prominent player in New Orleans politics from the late 1700s through the beginning of the 20th century, today the Cabildo houses an extensive collection of historic artifacts. Informational signs tell the story of the various peoples that have called New Orleans home, and explain some of the city’s more colorful traditions.

The exhibits are much lower-tech and less interactive than those in the Presbytere, relying mostly on written information. If your kids are small, you may want to scan the signage and sum things up for them, rather than expecting the museum to keep them engaged. There is a great deal to learn that can enhance your visit, so plan to spend at least an hour or so. If there is a history buff in your family, it is easy to get wrapped up for half a day.

1850 House

Marvel at the luxury of the "middle class" 1850 House

Stop by the 1850 House, roughly midway down the Pontalba Building on the St. Ann side of Jackson Square. The self-guided tour takes less than an hour to complete, and provides an eye-opening look at the luxuries associated with “middle class” life in one of the most prosperous antebellum cities. Be sure to visit the slave quarters out back for a reminder that not everyone enjoyed that level of luxury. Both kids and adults seem to enjoy the artifacts, decorations and other details. Note that there is no elevator and the stairs are fairly steep.

The last steam-powered paddlewheeler in New Orleans

The Mighty Mississippi River has been inextricably linked with New Orleans since its earliest days. During the 19th century, when cotton was king, New Orleans was its most important port. In those days, the river was filled with steamboats of every description, carrying travelers on business and pleasure trips. Today the Port of New Orleans remains the centerpiece of the busiest port complex in the world, but steamboats are largely a thing of the past. The Natchez is the last remaining steam-powered paddlewheeler in New Orleans.

The Ship

The Natchez at dock

Commissioned in 1975, the current Natchez is the ninth ship to carry the name. The steam engines were originally built in 1925 for the sternwheeler Clairton, while the copper bell comes from the J.D. Ayres. The ship features a 32-note calliope and endless touches designed to evoke a more genteel era, including live jazz music on every cruise. Like her predecessors, the Natchez has never lost a steamboat race.

Virtually all areas of the ship are open to the public including the engine room, so take time to look around. The calliope plays a short concert before each sailing, which can be heard throughout Jackson Square.

The Cruise

The fully-narrated harbor cruise is great for kids

Dad and I chose the daytime Harbor Jazz Cruise, which boards daily at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. An evening Dinner Jazz Cruise is also available, with boarding at 6 p.m. Although both cruises welcome children, we both feel that the daytime cruise has more to offer for very young kids. The evening cruise has a bit more focus on dinner and dancing, while the daytime cruise offers a fully-narrated look at the New Orleans-area waterfront.

The optional Creole lunch was fantastic

We arrived at approximately 1:30 for our 2 p.m. cruise and there was already a long line to board the ship. We had tickets on hold, which necessitated a stop by the Lighthouse ticket booth on the pier. The Lighthouse handles tickets for a wide range of tours, and it was quite busy. Pick up your tickets in advance if possible.

Although the line was long, boarding was relatively quick and painless. You must stop for the obligatory tourist photo, billed as a necessary security measure. Your photo will be on display for sale as you leave the boat, but there is no pressure to buy.

We decided to purchase tickets for the optional Creole lunch (you must buy these before you board), so we headed directly for the elegant dining room. Lunch was served cafeteria-style, and we soon settled at a table by the window. The food was excellent! The menu that day included Creole fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, creamed spinach with artichoke hearts, coleslaw, baked beans, jalapeno and cheddar cornbread, fresh fruit and bread pudding. Menus change periodically, so your meal may be different. Everything is prepared fresh on the boat, and the quality was quite high.

You'll pass Jackson Square shortly after departure

Take your food outside if you want to get photos of Jackson Square and various French Quarter landmarks as you sail past. We chose the dining room, and I ended up dashing out to the open deck mid-meal to grab a few shots! If you are not taking pictures, though, the view from the dining room windows is just fine.

The engine room is well worth a visit

After lunch, we strolled around the boat, again rushing outside to take photos of interesting landmarks along the shoreline. The gift shop is small, but has some exclusive Natchez souvenirs. The Texas Bar, a beautiful but unpretentious small watering hole on the third deck, is a great place for the adults to relax with an alcoholic beverage. The paddle wheel was also fun to see up close. But as a former Navy man, Dad was most excited to see the engine room.

The engine room is visually stunning, though hot and steamy. Descriptive signage on the walls tells the story of the engines’ history, and explains how everything works. The engine operators are friendly and willing to answer questions, so don’t hesitate to ask. Although everything is fairly well chained off, keep a close eye on the kids. The heavy, moving parts could be dangerous, so keep them well back.

When we were finished exploring, we settled into deck chairs, eventually spending a bit of time on each of the three decks. The cruise is relaxing, allowing you to slip into a mindset that time no longer matters. There is a strong sense of connection with both the past and the future as the narrator discusses both historic and current events.

Tips for Parents

We took some time to relax on deck

Take your kids on a walk around the ship rather than expecting them to stay in one place for the two-hour duration. There is a lot to see and explore, and most kids we saw seemed fascinated. Let them take the lead, and be prepared to answer questions. Some children become absorbed by the narration, while others seem to tune it out. Try to listen as much as you can, so that if your child asks “What’s that?” you will have an answer for her.

Children under age six cruise for free, with a nominal charge for the optional lunch. Kids aged six to twelve receive a small discount off the adult price. If you prefer not to spring for a full lunch, sandwiches and drinks are available a la carte.

If anyone in your group is unable to negotiate stairs, you will be able to visit only the main level of the ship. The dining room and open deck are wheelchair-accessible, though some doorways have small lips. Nonetheless, the cruise is worthwhile even for those with mobility impairments.

Everyone loved the look and feel of the story book perfect New Orleans French Quarter.

Best of all, central New Orleans is truly a walking city – or if you can’t walk, you can take the street car. There are a variety of really charming hotels in and around the French Quarter.  We picked the Iberville Suites, partnered with but poorer cousin to, the Four Seasons. What the Iberville lacks in five-star dining, it more than makes up for in large rooms with separate living areas that feature sofa beds, mini-fridge and wet bar. We loved the art and chandeliers in the lobby and the old fashioned flocked wall paper and patterned carpets. Not a chain hotel by any means, we had also considered the Olivier House, recommended by friends. This is another family friendly option containing an enjoyable series of courtyards within its walls, conveniently located in the French Quarter as well.

Yes, Bourbon Street gets rowdy as the hour gets later, but an afternoon shrimp etouffe at Antoine’s, just a five minute stroll from your hotel, will make you more than satisfied with your location. The Ilberville was quiet at all hours, and the staff friendly, even offering us cold bottled water when we returned from touring the town on a warm summer afternoon. There’s plenty to see and do in this lovely city, which our kids termed the “real life Pirates of the Carribean.”

Let’s start with a look at some art at the completely child friendly Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art. This grassy open air home to over fifty beautiful sculptural pieces is the perfect place for kids to see and touch art under shady trees. From Henry Moore to Joel Shapiro, these sculptor’s master works range from the modern to classic, and are laid out around looping pathways just meant for children to run and play on. With five acres of Spanish moss dripping oaks, curving bridges, and flower lined lagoons this is a literal art playground, frequented by local and touring families alike. The museum itself features wonderful art, photography and glass collections inside.

For tiny travelers, there’s the sweet Louisiana Children’s Museum, named by the US Family Travel Guide the top-rated children’s museum in the US. Reopened and revamped after Hurricane Katrina damage, this tot delighting spot includes a miniature grocery store, television studio, and a cafe. Where else can your child move from a shopping experience to anchoring a news desk? There’s also a replica tow boat to sail down the Mississippi.

So with that taste of the river life in mind, we headed to the real thing. Despite steamy weather, it was great fun watching the river boats ply the waters. While we didn’t take them, several river boats offer dinner and sunset cruises, too.

Nightfall found us in the heart of the French Quarter at Preservation Hall, New Orleans most historic jazz spot and welcoming for all ages. Dedicated to the preservation of classic New Orleans Jazz, the venue was built as a private home in 1750. With no smoking or drinking allowed, this is a wonderful spot to introduce your children to jazz. Dancing, clapping, and singing along is encouraged – and we would’ve been hard put not to join in on a rousing finale of “When the Saints Go Marching In.” The walls are lined with photos of jazz musicians past and present. Doors open at eight p.m., but you can arrive mid-way through a set and still be welcomed.

Family friendly jazz at Preservation Hall - a great evening.

We started our second day in the Crescent City – named for the curves in the Mississippi here – with those awesome beignets from world famous Cafe Du Monde. The Original Cafe Du Monde opened in 1862; today it’s open seven days a week, twenty-four hours a day. The menu is limited to those awesome square French donuts coated with powdered sugar. You can have milk, coffee, or soda – that’s it for a beverage; we opted for lemonade from a street vendor in Jackson Square.

Jackson Square itself, beautifully dominated by St. Louis Cathedral, reminded our kids of another Disney attraction Sleeping Beauty’s Castle. Named for Andrew Jackson, hero of the Battle of New Orleans, this landmark square is ringed by historic buildings: the cathedral, the Louisiana State Museums housed inside the old Presbytere and Cabildo buildings, and the oldest apartment buildings in the US, the Pontalba Apartments. All this beautiful architecture is supplemented by art: an open air art show runs daily in the square, with artists displaying their wares on the iron fences surrounding it and painting by it.

After spending some quiet time in the elegant old church, our kids were ready for a livelier pursuit, and lunch. A great lunch option on the go: po’boy sandwiches. Inexpensive and enormous, designed for kids to share, with options from shrimp to veggies, meat and cheese, the beauty of these sandwiches is the perfect melding of fresh French bread and local fillings. We got ours at Johnny’s on St. Louis street, and while this casual eatery has seating we chose al fresco dining on a shady bench in Jackson Square.

Massive sandwiches shared and devoured, we spent the rest of our afternoon exploring Blaine’s Mardi Gras World, which houses massive and impressive creations made by the artists who create Mardi Gras floats and costumes every year. Blaine Kern is the world’s leading maker of floats and large scale props, and the exhibits are enthralling. You and your kids will feel Liliputian in size compared to the massive and magical fantasy figures prepared for the Mardi Gras floats. Blaine’s is not located in the Quarter, but they offer free shuttles from most area hotels, or take a brisk and inexpensive cab ride. The tour is fascinating and the color and scale of the exhibits will put on a smile on everyone’s face.

In my next blog: we’ll get to those flaming bananas!