The Waikoloa Petroglyph Field is one of the best preserved sites of its kind in Hawaii. Found just north of the border between the ancient kingdoms of Kohala and Kona, this impressive lava field has one of the largest major concentrations of ancient rock carvings in all the Hawaiian Islands.

People wishing to cross the border between the ancient kingdoms of Kohala and Kona needed permission to do so. While waiting, they would sometimes make simple encampments to shelter themselves from the elements within the caves and rock walls scattered throughout the lava field. The surface carvings they left behind may have been made to commemorate an important ritual, such as one of religious significance, or a birth, or other noteworthy event.

The numerous carvings are believed to date back to between 1000 and 1800 A.D., and depict figures of humans, animals, and religious symbols. Most of the carvings were chiseled into the surface using sharp and blunt hammering stones, while others were rubbed, pounded, or incised there.

I had the opportunity to visit this rocky field alone, and had it all to myself on a hot summer day when most tourists were lounging by the sea, the poolside, or indulging in the many attractions this beautiful island has to offer. With every step I took, I thought about the ancient ones who were here before me. I felt a secret thrill at their nearness, as though I could reach out, slowly draw back the thin veil of time separating us, and touch them. I could almost hear their steps, sense their thoughts, and feel the beating of their hearts with every breath I took. The same trade winds caressing my skin filled their lungs with air. The same sun beating down on my head, heated their path. For an exhilarating moment I was lost in time—somewhere between the present and past—an eternal NOW, existing, feeling, yearning, connecting with those who were here before me.

Where do the roads lead? Where do they come from? It is a mystery. This rocky field is desolate and abandoned, more so because I am alone, and yet I turn to glance around me, almost glimpsing the ancient ones, feeling their timeless presence. I wonder what secrets and mysteries the rocks hold. What have they heard, what have they witnessed? I ponder each step I take and wonder about those who came before me: where were they going, and where did they come from?

I see birds and lizards on my path and think that they too are descendants of the ancient creatures that came before them. Past and Present appear to merge as the veil is not only drawn back, but ripped away in a passionate moment. The experience is rather exciting. It is the kind of emotion derived from traveling back in time through ruins and ancient things, to feel the eternal human condition that unifies us all. Yes, that hot summer day was an experience to remember. Perhaps someday, another lone visitor will sense the presence of my fiery soul among the many who traversed that vast, desolate field, and step away with a sense of wonder as well.

We usually stay at a charming resort overlooking the ocean. The town, quaint and very appealing, is perfect for exploring with its boutique shops, restaurants, cafes and all sorts of beach-town fun.

Carlsbad

There is a lot to do in and around Carlsbad. From spending a day at Legoland with the little ones, to strolling through the Flower Fields with almost 50 acres of colorful plants and flowers, to exploring the coastal wetlands of one of the nearby lagoons, or just enjoying the beach or town attractions.

Legoland’s Taj Mahal

For those who like venturing out a bit farther, Temecula Valley Wine Country is less than an hour’s drive. My favorite thing to do when visiting Temecula is strolling through the vineyards. Feeling the sun warm my back, the earth crunch softly underfoot, the grapes ripening on the vine, the soft buzzing of insects and the endless sky above makes for one of those sublime sensual experiences. While most people are crowding around the bar, sampling the wine inside one of the kid-friendly wineries, I prefer to escape to the vineyard itself to get away from it all. This is where I imagine that I am far away, perhaps Tuscany or in the Bordeaux Region.

A vineyard at Temecula

Another great venue is the San Diego Zoo Safari Park. It too is less than an hour’s drive from Carlsbad, and makes for a fun day’s excursion for the whole family.

Lions at the San Diego Zoo Safari Park

My favorite activity by far is walking on the strand by the beach. The water sparkles brilliantly with reflected sunlight, and the salty breeze seems to wash right through my soul. Sometimes I stand at the bridge over the inlet and turn my face to the sea, closing my eyes briefly to surrender myself to the heady rapture of the moment. I like to imagine that I’m standing at the bows of a ship as the wind blows through my hair and fills me with a kind of euphoria. Where do I wish to go? I have only to imagine it, to make it so. Perhaps the Cyclades Islands in the Aegean Sea; or the Galapagos in the Pacific. The World is suddenly at my whim, as my spirit soars in the moment. The experience is utterly romantic and sweeps me away for the duration of my walk. Yes, I am in Carlsbad, but my mind is flying free, carried on the sea breeze, tangy and oh so delicious.

Once the day is done and the westering sun is deepening its descent, I love watching the sea turn to gold. There is a glorious stillness to the hour, made more poignant by the seaside’s enchantment. The pounding of the surf on the sand echoes the life bursting within my breast.

Yes, Carlsbad makes for a lovely escape, being so close to home. It has something for everyone in the family. But it is its seaside charm that draws us back again and again.

Hearst Castle by Durova CC BY-SA 3.0

Hearst Castle was once a vacation home belonging to newspaper mogul William Randolph Hearst. It sits high atop a hill in San Simeon, California, overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  Its location is certainly beautiful, and was aptly named “La Cuesta Encantada,” The Enchanted Hill, for the views are simply enchanting. It was first opened to the public in 1958 after becoming a California State Park in 1954.

I had the opportunity to visit this site for the second time in my life some months back. The first time I went, I was a child of about eleven or twelve, so my impressions were quite different.  What impressed me most during my childhood visit were the swimming pools. I have always been drawn to water, so gazing upon their sparkling depths, was like staring at a pastry locked behind a glass cabinet: I could look all I wished, but I could not touch, no matter how much I longed to do so. And for someone who loved to swim almost as much as a fish, this unfulfilled longing bordered on a kind of torture. Oh how I wanted to dive into those pools…

Neptune Pool by Stan Shebs CC BY-SA 3.0

NEPTUNE POOL

The Neptune Pool, empty during our recent visit while it undergoes restoration, is an outdoor pool with fountains, marble sculptures, marble pavilions, and an ancient temple façade. It offers gorgeous views of the coastline, the property, and the Pacific Ocean.

ROMAN POOL

This indoor pool is an artistic masterpiece. It was inspired by the ancient Roman baths of Caracalla from the early third century AD. Copies of ancient Greek and Roman statues, mosaic glass tiles fused with gold, vaulted arches, and the domed ceiling are all exquisite. What attracted me most was that the water was actually heated during its heyday. Now that is luxury. I think I could spend hours in such a pool.

Hearst Castle by King of Hearts CC BY-SA 3.0

ESTATE

Hearst Castle features the main “castle” called Casa Grande, and three guest houses known as Casa del Mar, Casa del Monte, and Casa del Sol. Casa Grande is what attracts most visitors. The estate has 56 bedrooms, 61 bathrooms, 19 sitting rooms, over 100 acres of gardens, tennis courts, a movie theater, and indoor and outdoor swimming pools. At the time of Mr. Hearst’s ownership, it also included an airfield, and the world’s largest private zoo with a diverse collection of wild animals grazing freely over the hills. Included among the animals were camels, deer, ostriches, emus, antelope, zebras, llamas, kangaroos and sheep. Other animals like giraffes, tigers, bears, lions, leopards, chimpanzees, orangutans, monkeys, macaws, and an elephant were kept in menagerie cages. Today, zebras can still be seen roaming the hillside.

View from a terrace at Hearst Castle
by Daderot CC0

CASA GRANDE

Casa Grande’s décor is an eclectic mix of architectural styles and elements that Mr. Hearst acquired during his extensive travels around the world. There are large European oil paintings, tapestries, rugs, furniture, decorative pieces of art, a rare-books collection, and even Egyptian artifacts dating back to more than two millennia.

A MELANCHOLIC ENCHANTMENT

While the design is handsome, and each component chosen with obvious care, the overall effect of the estate left me a little ambivalent. Perhaps that is why I waited some months to write about it after my most recent visit. Yes, Hearst Castle is beautiful, but it’s also forlorn. There is something hollow and gloomy about it. It is like a body without a soul. I would even go as far as to say that it reflects the man who had it built. He traveled far and wide, searching for priceless artifacts with which to fill the house, but the resulting effect was rather like an orphanage of uprooted valuable pieces all housed in permanent exile in one place. The built-in carved wood seats lining the dining room wall seem to pine for the old European monastery from whence they came. The elaborate stone fireplace sits cold and brooding over its genteel past. The centuries-old ceilings gaze not upon the graceful mansions and palaces from where they came, but upon an incongruous collection bordering on the ostentatious. It is almost gaudy in its proportions, as though the Master of the house went on a shopping spree and binged on a varied assortment of precious artifacts he was determined to find a place for in his new home; determined to fill a void that perhaps nothing tangible could fill. It left me with a feeling of melancholy. A subtle despondence that lingered even after leaving the estate.

Hearst Castle by Zlatko CC BY-SA 3.0

Regardless, Hearst Castle is definitely worth a visit. It will be especially appreciated by those who enjoy things at face value which is, perhaps, the best way to approach this California Historical Landmark. But I could not help imagining the artifacts as they once were in their points of origin.  I had a home in France, one relic would whisper in reminiscence. And I in Belgium, another would say. And I in an ancient Egyptian temple, a third would reply.

And so the castle goes on murmuring its secrets when no one is around. Its relics tell their many tales with all the wistful eloquence of a bygone time. But I’m sure I caught a word or two of their nostalgic undertones. If you listen carefully, you just might hear them too.

And that alone makes a visit worthwhile.

Street of Pompeii
photo by Paul Vlaar CC BY-SA 3.0

Seldom have ancient ruins stirred one as do those of Pompeii. The catastrophic eruption that buried this seaside resort town in AD 79 preserved it with remarkable detail. So much so in fact, that it is this town which has provided much evidence of life in ancient Rome for historians to study.

The region of Campania by the Bay of Naples in Italy was no stranger to seismic activity. There was much evidence found during excavations that attested to this fact by repairs done on Pompeii’s temples, water systems, houses and public buildings. Only sixteen years before the deadly eruption of Mount Vesuvius, a massive earthquake caused much damage to the town. But people were quick to forgive nature’s fury and overlook its volatile temper, opting to remain in the thriving resort town that drew many wealthy Romans, merchants and service classes to its lush and fertile grounds.

Mount Vesuvius rising behind the ruins of Pompeii
photo by Kim Traynor CC BY-SA 3.0

Walking through the excavated ruins of Pompeii is like stepping back in time almost two millennia ago. Pompeii is the quintessential Roman town complete with a forum, temples, civic buildings, amphitheater, theater, ordered neighborhood blocks comprising of tenements and upper class villas, shops, workshops, taverns, public bath houses, a city wall, and well-kept roads connecting everything inside the luxury city.

Remains of House of the Faun
photo by Porsche997SBS CC BY-SA 3.0

Visitors can walk in the footsteps of ancient Romans as they made their way on the streets to buy or sell things from the marketplace. Or as they flocked to the great arena for the games displayed in bloody glory including gladiatorial combats. Or as they went about their daily work and pleasure in the seaside town that was drenched in golden sunlight and endless possibilities. Life was good. Especially for the upper classes.

But on that fateful day in late August of AD 79, all that changed. People stared at the sky when a strange mushroom cloud was spewed from the crater of Mount Vesuvius. They were mesmerized by its colossal size and ominous appearance. Many abandoned the town after the initial earthquakes leading up to the eruption, but others stayed, whether by choice or by obligation.

Garden of the Fugitives
photo by Lancevortex CC BY-SA 3.0

It was the fallout that buried the town and preserved it with such detail. Freshly baked bread was found to remain in situ in a clay oven. Exquisite frescos and mosaics were uncovered in stunning colors and patterns. Jewelry, homes, and artifacts galore—including armor and weapons from gladiators—have been found buried there. But what is perhaps most touching are the human plaster casts of the people who died there. No matter what artifacts and architecture have been preserved, it is its people that are the most poignant and precious discovery of all. Perhaps because it is a reminder of our own mortality, and of the fleeting nature of this life. It is also a reminder that amid the ruins and ashes of this life, our dreams and desires transcend the boundaries of the moment, linking us with our ancestors across the great sea of time.

Upon passing through the main entrance to the Westin Kierland Resort & Spa, one is greeted by tall palms flanking the drive like sentinels at attention. I couldn’t help whispering aloud, Ah… the avenue of palm trees, for I was reminded of the Avenue of Sphinxes leading to a grand temple in the desert of ancient Egypt. Only this lush avenue leads to a desert oasis in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Everything about this resort is beautiful and blends perfectly into the lovely Scottsdale landscape, from the pools and manicured gardens, to the restaurants and countless amenities.

But my personal favorite is strolling on the golf course at sunset, after the westering sun has swept its majestic way across a dazzling sapphire sky, and the last of the golfers has long since departed. That is when a lone bagpiper in full Scottish Highland regalia takes up a haunting tune that echoes over Dreamweavers Canyon through the sloping green fairways. He moves along the edge of green, a lonely silhouette cut against a painted sky ablaze in crimson and gold. Deepening shadows spread over the canyon and the sound of a screeching bird seems to transcend the boundaries of time.

It is a little mesmerizing. Is he the Pied Piper? I find myself transfixed.

There is a glorious stillness to the hour, a splendor that saturates the very depths of my soul. It is made more acute by the bagpiper’s keen and poignant melodies. I close my eyes, half expecting to open them again and see a clan of men galloping on horseback toward me.

But none appear. It is only my imagination carrying me away to a long forgotten time.

If the palm-flanked entrance of the resort reminded me of ancient Egypt, Dreamweavers Canyon took me straight to Scotland. Traditional tunes like Scotland the Brave/Rowan Tree, Highland Cathedral, Loch Lomond, and Caledonia seem to transport listeners to another place and time. A time of chivalry and honor.

The experience was rather sublime.

The beauty of the setting, my own intensely romantic imagination, and the bagpiper’s haunting tune made me ache with a kind of longing. There was a serenity of the moment, made more poignant by the breathtaking surroundings. This is one truly special feature that sets this resort apart from others.

There are plenty of activities to keep families happily busy here all day long: from three heated outdoor pools, a 110-foot waterslide, 900-foot lazy river and an adult lap pool, to a FlowRider, two lighted tennis courts, a fitness studio, family kids club, a full-service spa, and more. There is the golf course too, naturally, though I prefer strolling along there at sunset when the bagpiper arrives.

Dining at the resort is excellent, and a free shuttle service is also available to drop off guests at the restaurants and shops located just across the boulevard.

Despite all the wonderful amenities this resort has to offer, it was the Scottish bagpipes at sunset that won me over. Even now, if I close my eyes and recall his beautiful playing, I find myself swept away to the rugged beauty of the Scottish Highlands.

Perhaps someday I will.

But for now, I would visit the Westin Kierland again if only for this enchanting experience.

For more information on the resort, visit kierlandresort.com.

The first thing that came to mind when I visited Alderbrook Resort & Spa was a dearly loved poem by Robert Frost: “The Road Not Taken.”  Two roads diverged in a yellow wood… begins the famous poem. Only this particular wood is green and lies along the Hood Canal, and it led us to Alderbrook.

The setting of this resort is magnificent

In a word, it’s idyllic. It makes the most of the spectacular scenery and location.

View of the dock

The charm of nature is unparalleled, and evident in every detail at this resort, from the cozy cottages, to the stately pines reaching for a benevolent sky, to the tranquil waters of the Hood Canal that simply took my breath away. I am a city girl, not by choice but by necessity, and this place struck a deep chord. I have always preferred remote locations especially by the water, and reveled in the symphony of silence, and Alderbrook certainly was a treat. It has the best of modern luxuries while being tucked away in one of the Northwest’s most magnificent settings. Can you ask for anything more?

ACCOMMODATIONS

The resort has 77 guest rooms and 16 cottages, each with complimentary Wi-Fi, Keurig single cup coffee and tea selections, plush linens, sumptuous bath products, and attention to detail which leaves one rested and rejuvenated.

One of the sixteen cottages at the resort

We stayed in one of the charming cottages nestled on the picturesque shores of the Hood Canal, and surrounded by trees and breathtaking beauty.

Living room of our cottage

The spacious cottages come with one or two bedrooms, separate living rooms, fully-furnished kitchens, and fireplaces which would be perfect for the cooler months.

View of the Hood Canal from our cottage window

They have the cozy feel of a beach or lake house with gorgeous views of the Hood Canal and Olympic Mountains.

AMENITIES

The resort boasts a full-service spa, indoor swimming pool and whirlpool, steam room and sauna, first-class restaurant and bar, an 18-hole PGA golf course, tennis courts, 1500 linear-foot dock with guest moorage and boat rentals, water sports, and miles of groomed nature trails for hiking.

Indoor swimming pool

The hiking trails were a favorite. I like imagining I am wandering through the primeval wood. It is easy to do so with the moss-draped trees, lush ferns and foliage, and the sound of a creek winding below the undergrowth. I felt like I was in another place and time, far away from civilization.

The nature trails are so lush and inviting

Some water sports we enjoyed were kayaking, paddle boating, and hydro cycling. The canal waters are calm and perfect for this.

Kayaking is one of the many activities offered here

Strolling out on the dock at dusk, just after the sun has dipped below the horizon, and an enchanting stillness claims the air is sublime.  The breeze picks up then, carrying the sweet and briny tang of the saltwater which fills the senses with a kind of bliss.

Every hour of the day has it splendor

DINING

Dining at the resort was always excellent. The Restaurant at Alderbrook offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, making it very convenient for guests of the resort. It also boasts gorgeous views of the Hood Canal, and a wonderful variety of wines and freshly prepared cuisine to suit even the most discriminating palate.

Grand Marnier prawns

Things like grand marnier prawns, clams in a white wine butter sauce, clam chowder, fish and chips, caesar salad, risotto, salmon, berkshire pork chop and duck confit are savory and satisfying.

Duck confit

Their desserts are tempting as well, including such fare as chocolate napoleon and vanilla bean creme brulee. There is also outdoor dining on the Patio, complete with live music Wednesday through Sunday evenings.

Another stunning view at dusk

The resort has a gift shop, complimentary electric vehicle charging station, pet-friendly rooms, a “Gamers’ Hideaway” with Xbox, nine 37” TVs, and one 55” TV, each with individual Xbox and Turtle Beach headset. There are ballrooms and conference centers for private events as well. The resort’s own Lady Alderbrook—a 54-foot boat—is available for scenic sunset cruises, private events, and more.

The shores at low tide

This idyllic escape is only about two hours west of Seattle and north of Portland, and located on 88 verdant acres with panoramic views of the tranquil canal and Olympic Mountains, yet it’s truly a haven when you want to get away from it all.

Borrowing Robert Frost’s words,

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—   I took the one to Alderbrook, And that has made all the difference.

For more information visit Alderbrook.

The dock at Barraterre where we boarded

The best way to explore the many cays in the Exumas is by boat, and Island Boy Adventures made the experience wonderful.

We chartered a private half-day tour so that we could visit the cays at our leisure. This was led by Jeffrey and  Quentin who were very friendly and knowledgeable. They made us feel instantly welcome and at ease. I tend to get seasick easily, but had no problems at all on this excursion.

The pigs swam right up to our boat

SWIMMING WITH THE PIGS

One of the wildlife highlights of the Exumas is swimming with the pigs. We visited a small cay inhabited by these adorable creatures, and when our boat neared the shore, they immediately swam toward us with their heads and snouts above water, hoping for a treat.

It was fun roaming the cay where the pigs live

I don’t know what I was expecting precisely, but these pigs were very big! Nevertheless, I did not feel afraid of them.

I hopped into the water and made my way to the shore as they followed me closely, sniffing to see if I had any food.

The nursing piglets were so cute

I spied some piglets on the cay and just had to go get a closer look. They were so cute! Exploring the cay was lots of fun because there were plenty of pigs living there. They seem to spend their time eating or napping in the shade of some shrubs and bushes.

Even the piglets sleep in a pile together. We saw a few of them suckling milk from their mother. It was so endearing!

Now that’s a big pig…

Although they are wild, the pigs are well cared for. They are given plenty of food and fresh water daily, not to mention the occasional treats by visiting tourists.

Seeing the pigs was one of the most memorable parts of this excursion.

The secluded beach was gorgeous

SECLUDED BEACH TOUR

After spending a good while with the pigs, we climbed back into the boat, and Jeffrey took us to a small deserted cay with a gorgeous secluded beach. We ate our boxed lunch on the boat and then hopped into the water, snorkeled, and waded to the white sandy shore, where we strolled along the beach.

There were countless conch shells littering the sand by the trees and shrubs. Rocks near one end of the beach formed many small tide pools that were fun to investigate.

The iguanas came right up to us to be fed

The water was clear and beautiful as it is throughout the Exumas, and we enjoyed a quiet afternoon there without another soul to be seen anywhere.

FEEDING THE IGUANAS

Once we left the secluded beach, Jeffrey took us to another cay inhabited by large iguanas.

The iguanas are very cute

Although I remained on the boat this time, my son hopped off and made for the shore.

Soon after, one iguana appeared, then another, then many more. They came from the other side of the cay, as though on cue.

Like the pigs, they were eager for a treat, and knew from experience to equate visitors with food.

They were not disappointed.

There were lots of iguanas there

THE RIDE BACK

The ride back was breezy but fun also

On our way back to the dock from the excursion, it began to rain, but it was still an enjoyable ride. I never felt any seasickness at all.

We had taken plenty of photos, a few of which are included here. It was lovely exploring the natural beauty and wildlife for which the Exumas are known, and Island Boy Adventures made the experience a lot of fun.

They also offer fishing charters, group tours, and full-day tours. Other activities include swimming with sharks, snorkeling in the cays, and exploring hidden grottos. It’s a wonderful way to see the best of Exuma with friendly and knowledgeable guides.

For more information visit Island Boy Adventures.

Grand Isle Resort & Spa

Nestled on a gently sloping hill overlooking the powdery-sand beach of Emerald Bay on Great Exuma, Grand Isle Resort & Spa captures all the magic of the Exumas in the Bahamas.

One of the resort’s oceanfront villas

This resort is truly in a class of its own. It offers the best, most family-friendly accommodations on the island. These aren’t your standard hotel suites either, but rather private, spacious villas with spectacular views of the gorgeous aquamarine-hued ocean.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Spacious living room

If you are going to spend a week away from home on holiday, you want to do it comfortably. The 78 villas at this resort are fully-furnished with custom, elegant décor like something out of an architectural magazine: high ceilings, crown moldings, travertine tile with mosaic detail, granite countertops, stainless steel appliances, and much more.

Fully-appointed gourmet kitchen

The villas come in a choice of one- to four-bedrooms, so that even larger families have a comfortable place to relax. Wireless internet, plasma televisions, washer/dryer, air conditioning and fully-appointed gourmet kitchens offer all the comforts of home.

View from the balcony

The private balconies make the most of the sweeping vistas and balmy breezes. Lush landscaping with palm trees, hibiscus, and all kinds of tropical foliage bursting with color make this resort gorgeous.

Imagine taking a deep, invigorating breath of the salty sea breeze as you stand on the balcony, gazing out at the water. Seagulls shriek and swoop overhead, catching the breeze that lifts them high above the ground. You close your eyes briefly as you listen to the water lapping at the shore a short walk from where you stand. It is quiet and serene as the sun warms your skin.

ACTIVITIES

This four-diamond award winning resort comes with a spa, fitness room, infinity-edged swimming pool, concierge service, daily housekeeping, complimentary supervised children’s activities, kayaks, stand up paddle boards, snorkel gear, access to the Emerald Bay Golf Course, and more.

Delicious on-site restaurant: Palapa Grill

DINING

The on-site Palapa Grill restaurant is absolutely gourmet, and one of the best restaurants on the island. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a full bar and wine list so you don’t need to go anywhere else. Breakfast features tasty options like eggs, omelets, buttermilk pancakes, coconut French toast, smoked salmon bagels, fruit, pastries, specialty coffees and teas, and more.

Infinity pool

Lunch and dinner offer a variety of choices from salads, burgers and sandwiches, to delectable appetizers, fresh fish and seafood, local cuisine, and even beef tenderloin that is cooked to perfection every single time. Things like gazpacho, Caesar salad, Bahamian conch bites, grouper, roasted pork chop, and seafood fettuccini are all wonderful.

GETTING AROUND

Golf cart in the private garage of our villa

Golf cart rentals are available for getting around the resort, and can be parked inside your private garage that comes with each of the villas.  For those who wish to explore the island, renting a car is the best way, and can be easily arranged with the resort concierge. It can also be delivered to the resort for your convenience. The concierge is also very helpful with providing information about places to see on the island, printed directions, and tours. Help is plentiful and readily available so you can spend your time making the most of your vacation.

Layout of the resort

For those interested in getting groceries delivered to your villa, the concierge offers this service also. Dining reservations, tee times and any special requests or events can be arranged with them as well.

STAFF

Path leading to the beach of Emerald Bay

The Bahamian people are warm and very friendly, and this goes for the staff at the resort as well. From the moment of our arrival, we were made to feel welcome, especially after a long day of travel. Every time we past one of the locals on the street or a staff member at the resort, they always offered us a genuine smile and a wave. Theirs is an easygoing cheerful manner inspired by the beauty of the islands, which is reflected in their eyes.

If you are going to visit paradise, make it a special treat to remember. The Grand  Isle Resort & Spa is a breathtaking resort that makes the most of this Bahamian haven. It reflects the splendor of the dazzling jewel-toned waters of the Exumas. This is a trip of a lifetime, and one you will never forget. It certainly was for us.

If you’ve been bitten (or at least nibbled on) by the travel bug, you’re probably already daydreaming about where you and your family would like to go on your next vacation. The idea of traveling to Europe sounds pretty chic to most Americans. But maybe it seems like London, Paris and Rome are a little too “been there, done that.” I mean, if I had a dime for every Facebook friend who’s posted a selfie standing in front of the Eiffel Tower…well, you get the picture.

May I suggest a fresh, new destination for your next European adventure? Think north. Way north. I’m talking about the beautiful city of Helsinki. Yep, Finland. Land of the Midnight Sun.

Scandinavia doesn’t usually pop up on the radar of most Americans as a vacation destination. But I’ve spent the past two summers traveling and eating my way through Helsinki, thanks to the gracious hospitality of a Finnish friend I happened to met on Facebook. (That’s another story for another time.) It is one of the most stunningly beautiful, clean and spacious countries I have ever been to, and I’ve fallen in love with it. Let me count the ways!

Because Finnish winters are so long, cold, and dark, (and no self-respecting Southern Californian could possibly endure the frigid temperatures), you and your family will probably want to go in the summer. Finns take maximum advantage of their short summers and outdoor activities abound. Your family is sure to enjoy a visit a beautiful Finnish beach (yes, beach!) like I did. Complete with cute blonde lifeguards, a beach volleyball game, and Helsinki’s own answer to the fabled “Muscle Beach” in Venice.

The beach was on a lake. One of Finland’s nicknames is “Land of a Thousand Lakes,” but that’s a pretty modest moniker, considering there are more than 188,000 lakes in the country. They’re gorgeous and pristine, and most city residents have a tiny lakeside cottage for summer use. I think it’s pretty funny that this California girl first learned how to do stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) on a Finnish lake last summer! Surprisingly, SUPping is extremely popular in Finland in the summer, and a great family activity as well as relatively inexpensive.

Outdoor music festivals are everywhere–and who knew that Finland has the world’s highest concentration of heavy metal bands?? I didn’t–until two summers ago. And because in the summer the Finnish sun only barely dips below the horizon before rising again, (hence its other nickname, “Land of the Midnight Sun,”) you have nearly 24 hours of daylight, so these festivals go on well into the wee hours!

The Finnish language is one of the most complex and beautiful languages I’ve ever encountered. I’ve been studying it for the past two years and have acquired roughly enough vocabulary to have a conversation with a Finnish toddler. Almost. But that shouldn’t stop you from going there! Finns speak excellent English, and even though they’re pretty shy and reserved at first, they warm up very quickly and I have found them exceptionally gracious and welcoming. I’ve been invited to people’s homes to pick strawberries, and I’ve been invited for Lettu, a scrumptious Finnish pancake served with berries, whipped cream and ice cream. The Finns have a huge thing for berries, by the way. Berry stands are everywhere in the city, and the berries are huge, delicious and cheap!

Speaking of food, an American can find some pretty exotic cuisine in and around Helsinki. My friend insisted on taking me to a Lappish restaurant downtown. In Lapland, the northernmost part of the country, reindeer is standard fare. So, yeah…I ate Rudolph. And actually enjoyed it immensely! The reindeer meat is tender, juicy, and was served on a heaping bed of mashed potatoes with gravy, and garnished with a side of bright red lingonberries. Appealing to my eyeballs and my tastebuds! Plus they gave us such big servings we got doggie bags and enjoyed it again the next day.

Of course, you can also find pizza and hamburgers, which may be more palate-pleasing to younger and pickier family members–but why go to Helsinki for that? You can try a plate of reindeer meatballs at the outdoor market place, or a crispy basket of muikku–tiny fish fried whole, kind of like French fries, served with a yummy garlic aioli sauce.

But, for the true Finnish experience, you have to go all the way. Without clothes.

I meant you have to take a Finnish sauna. What were you thinking? ;)

Finnish sauna is a tradition–heck,  it’s an institution. There’s even a sauna in the Finnish Parliament. You can find them in nearly every household and hotel, and they are seen as a necessity for relaxation, not a luxury. They are often co-ed, but sauna is a strictly non-sexual place and even sort of sacred. No swearing is allowed, and arguments and controversial topics are avoided. While you will find people wearing bathing suits in some co-ed or family saunas, usually clothing is considered a faux pas, even though it’s OK to sit on a small towel. After a few sauna sessions I began to relax and enjoy myself when I realized that no one cares that you’re not wearing clothes. Hey, when in Rome!! (or Helsinki).

There’s much more to Finland that an American ought to experience–the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis), the clean and efficient public transportation, the beautiful pre-war architecture and the contrasting Scandinavian minimalist design–I loved how my friend’s apartment looked precisely as if it came out of an IKEA catalog!

I hope you’ll get the chance to visit someday…and people can say “WTF” (Welcome to Finland) to you too!

P.S. Wanna know what to do next?? Check out SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) for some good deals on flights to Helsinki. I’ve traveled with them twice and I highly recommend them!!

The Exumas are one of the Bahamas best kept secrets

This is one of many remote beaches in the Exumas

I had few expectations before visiting the Exumas in the Bahamas. I was more concerned about safe flights and staying healthy. Even the prospect of rain did not trouble me. I actually love the rain, especially on a tropical island. Anything from a gentle shower, heady with the fragrance of rich vegetation and the salty sea, to a drenching downpour, beating the landscape into utter submission. There is a kind of wild romance about a drenching downpour. Not the sweet, tender variety either, but a hedonistic, all-encompassing passion that is totally exhilarating.

The water is as clear as an aquamarine

What I discovered after arriving on Great Exuma – the largest cay of the islands comprising the Exumas – was something altogether enchanting. Gazing out of the plane’s window, I was greeted with a bird’s-eye view of the 37-mile-length island. From this perspective, it looked rather primitive:  lush, green, largely undeveloped and uninhabited. It looked like a place which Civilization had not yet beaten into submission. Taking in the view, I could feel the first stirrings of excitement begin to course through my veins.

The Exuma cays are fun to explore, and easily accessible by boat

This is not a place for those who seek loud nightlife. Nor is it a place for shoppers who delight in browsing the glamorous wares deemed fashionable by a so-called cultured society. Neither is it a stylish venue to people-watch, and see or be seen.

Everywhere you look, the views are stunning

But if you like peace, quiet, tranquility, and the splendor of nature in all its unspoiled glory, the Exumas are a kind of paradise. No crowds, no skyscrapers, no noise. Just miles of deserted beaches, breathtaking water, numerous cays waiting to be explored, and friendly welcoming locals who make you feel right at home on the islands. This is the kind of place where one is romanced by the splendor of nature. The lull of the tide, the balmy fragrant trade winds, the gulls and other wildlife all form a symphony that resonates deeply in the soul, inspiring a kind of euphoria.

The wild pigs are too cute – especially the piglets

Forget crowds, blaring music, nights on the town, and all the trappings of a harried civilization. This is where the aromatic breezes, powdery-white sand beaches, and water the color of pale aquamarine will capture your heart and set your imagination on fire.
All I wanted to do was enjoy this natural splendor: long walks on the beach and leisure swims in the water made for an unparalleled delight. The water here far surpasses that of Fiji, the far coasts of Africa, and even Bora Bora. It took my breath away.

These local stingrays love being fed

Yes, it’s a bit off the beaten path, but that is what makes the Exumas so appealing in its remoteness. If it were easier to get there, it would be far more crowded. If you live on the East Coast of the USA, it is not hard to get there. But if you are west of the Mississippi, count on at least two flights to paradise. But it’s worth it. This is one place where you will find many pristine beaches that are completely deserted. Just bring some sunscreen and a sense of adventure.

HISTORY

The Exumas were first settled by expatriates in the late 1700s, who maintained their loyalty to King George III during the Revolutionary War. They set up cotton plantations on the islands. But before that, the Exumas served as a hideout for many pirates, including Captain Kidd who was eventually caught, sent to England, tried, and finally executed in 1701. Poor fellow… He did not manage to escape as did a certain Captain James Blackburn, with whom I am very well-acquainted. Ah, but that is another subject matter entirely.

Now back to the Exumas…

This big guy is a sweetheart. He swam right up to us from a cay in hopes of a treat

With all its cays, one can easily see how the Exumas, and many of the islands of the Bahamas, were attractive hideouts to pirates fleeing capture and seeking a place to stash their treasures. There are many hidden beaches and secluded bays that would have been perfect to careen their ships safely out of sight.

This storied background only enhances the Exumas appeal, spicing it with a hefty dose of myths, legends and romantic adventures.

ACTIVITIES

The Lighthouse Cafe and Ice Cream Parlour made a lovely treat after a day at the beach

It’s always fun to go exploring a new place, especially one like the Exumas. Boat tours offer visitors a chance to visit some of the many cays, hidden grottos and caves. There are so many unnamed beaches whose white sandy shores and clear waters just beckon to be discovered.

This iguana likes to be fed as much as the pigs do

There is an abundance of picturesque wildlife including iguanas, sting rays, starfish, and swimming pigs – a major Exuma attraction. Snorkeling and water sports are also popular, with great snorkeling opportunities along the reefs. The National Family Island Regatta is a sailing competition held in the Exumas annually.

Whatever your passion, the Exumas are not to be missed. With its many beaches, balmy weather, and warm and inviting locals, the Exumas will continue to beckon visitors to its pristine shores for a very long time. It is one of those places that has remained untouched by time, but is certain to leave a lasting impression on those who come here. It did for me.