Big Bend National Park

We stayed at The Gage Hotel in little Marathon, Texas, in many ways more of a ghost town than a big town, with a population of 430, a bar, a grocery, and a pizza shop. But this hotel offers a “big” range of comfort for its guests. It’s got a rustic feeling from brick patios to adobe walls, but it’s also elegant, with a pretty and heated pool, and rooms furnished with authentic Western style. It has an interesting history, too. It was originally built back in 1927 as a spot for owner Alfred S. Gage, to stay while he oversaw the cattle on his ranches. It was designed in Mission style by well-regarded architecht Henry Charles Trost, fell into disrepair, and beginning in the 1970s, was artfully restored by J.P. and Mary Jon Bryan. The current property is made up of the original, fifteen-room hotel, twenty adobe brick rooms slung low across the adjoining courtyard, and the newest section of the property, three large casitas and the five seven bedroom Captain Shepard House property.

The Gage Hotel

While dining is in the “fine” category at the hotel’s 12 Gage Restaurant, that doesn’t mean you have to head on down the street to the local pizzeria. The chef is very accommodating, and will offer smaller, plainer portions of inventive food items. Dining can be inside or on the patio, where with twinkling white lights overhead, the atmosphere is relaxed. Dinner over, it’s time to walk to the edge of the property, away from the lights, and gaze up. The spread of stars here is amazing; crisp dry air makes the starsgazing especially bright.

Rooms at The Gage

The Gage makes a perfect place to recharge after a day in Big Bend. Just driving the main roads into and out of the park provide plenty of picture-worthy stopping points, and there are over a hundred miles of paved roads that lead past spectacular rock monuments and offer glimpses of flora and fauna. But to really explore the region, it’s best to hike or walk. At 0.3 miles, the paved Window View Trail is by far the easiest, circling a hill and offering great views of the craggy peaks that ring the Chisos Basin. Another short and easy trail is the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail at 0.5 miles. This is a flat desert-climate trail that’s shaded by cottonwood trees in part. The remains of a Native American settlement are visible from it. Chisos Basin Loop Trail is 1.8 miles and unpaved, but it’s shaded and climbs slowly through pine and juniper. A great trail for bird watchers, we saw blue jays and orioles. In spring, agave plants along the trail burst into colorful bloom.

Roads lead to great views in Big Bend National Park

Adults and older kids will enjoy Chimneys Trail, a 4.8 mile trail studded with red rock shaped like chimneys. Some pinnacles have Native American petroglyphs carved on them.

Outside the park, there’s plenty more to see as well. Forty-five down the highway from the Gage in Marathon is the town of Marfa, home to sculptor Donald Judd’s Chinati Foundation, a former military fort converted into galleries. Full and half day tours are offered, and even older kids may get restive at the full day version. The half day will do it, leading visitors through many a light-filled space filled with sculpted shapes, neon streaks, and other minimalist artworks, most of them Judd’s. Even without a tour, you can enjoy grabbing a bite to eat at the Foodshark gourmet food truck in town, and taking your artful taco with you to marvel at Prada Mafa, a mock up of a boutique that would be right at home in Beverly Hills, but which enjoys a surreal spot on a dusty stretch of highway U.S. 90.

Heading west toward Marathon again, you’ll come to the viewing platform for another big attraction in West Texas, the Marfa lights: glowing white orbs often visible across the shimmering desert floor, particularly just about sunset. Communication from aliens or distant headlights reflecting off a mountain pass? You be the judge, along with a cheerful crowd of locals and tourists. Often a local musician will strum, sometimes locals sell food and drink.

Over-all, from landscapes to art, we found that the very biggest thing about Big Bend country was simple: big fun.

The Arizona Inn

ARIZONA INN

We stayed at the beautiful Arizona Inn, a history-packed classic with pink walls and red-tiled roofs. It’s truly an elegant place, with a beautiful fountain, carefully tended flowers, and rooms and suites that are large, comfortable, and filled with amenities from free Wi-Fi to private porches and original art work that depicts the region. Created in 1930 by Isabella Greenway, the Inn is still family owned, the staff is friendly and accommodating.

The pool at the Arizona Inn

ON-SITE FUN

What families may love best however is not the high-thread-count linens or polished service. It’s the pool. A beautiful rectangular oasis, there are free water toys and floats for the kids, meal and bar service at tables directly adjoining the pool, and from 5 to 7 every night in the summer months, there’s a free ice cream sundae bar. And it’s nothing casual: laid out in an adjoining lounge area are more toppings that you’ll see at your local Coldstone’s, plus choices of chocolate or vanilla ice cream, or raspberry sorbet. Oh my. Kids of all ages, and maybe even the adults, will be back for seconds in no time flat.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Other family friendly activities abound: crouquet and horsehoes, table tennis, tennis courts, and an exercise room. After a full day by the pool, free DVD rentals are provided – of all classic films. Kids have never seen Casablanca? Well, now’s the time.

DINING

Dining can be in the formal dining room with cathedral ceilings or al fresco at the Audobon bar where small birds peck for fallen crumbs and a canopy keeps things cool. Breakfast favorites like blue corn pancakes are gourmet enough for adults looking for flavor and totally fun for the little ones.

A fountain at the Arizona Inn

Talking to some of the other guests, it’s clear that many families – including Tucson area residents – make it a tradition to spend some of their summer at The Arizona Inn. With great rates, luxury,  and kid-friendly activities, what’s not to like?

SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK

If you can tear yourself away from the pool, the Saguaro National Park is less than twenty minutes away. Divided into two halves by the city of Tucson itself, there are several loop roads in both halves of the park that bring you up close and personal with the Saguaro cactuses without even exiting your air-conditioned car. In the Rincon Mountain District to the east, you can take a scenic drive on Cactus Forest Loop Drive and get stunning views of the Rincon Mountains. In the Tucson Mountain District, to the west, a loop drive that departs from the visitor’s center offer great looks at stands of Saguaro, the nation’s largest cactus. It’s here that you can easily access the Signal Hill Picnic Area, where a short hike of less than half a mile leads you to a close-up view of dozens of Hohokam petroglyphs. With a walk that takes ten minutes maximum each way, you can do this easy hike up a short set of stone steps any time of day. Even shorter is the hundred yard cactus garden trail in front of the Red Hills Visitors Center.

At twilight, you’ll want to watch the sunset, which is a cause for celebration and observation in Tucson. Gates Pass inside Tucson Mountain Park is a great spot to see the sun sink into the horizon with all the cactus creating iconic silhouettes. You won’t be alone: when we were there local families brought picnics and fast food to tailgate.

A Tucson Sunset

TUCSON ACTIVITIES

Tucson has a number of air-conditioned-cool indoor activities that will charm all year long, too.
The Tucson Museum of Miniatures offers a unique collection of miniatures; The Center for Creative Photography, located on the University of Arizona campus, shows world-class touring collections. Also on campus is a gem and mineral museum. In the heart of downtown Tucson is the Tucson Museum of Art, with a superb collection of contemporary art as well as Latin American and American Western art collections. On the way to or from the Tucson Mountain area of Saguaro National Park, you’ll find the International Wildlife Museum. Located in a building that resembles a castle, with a gigantic bronze lion in front, this museum contains 400 species of insects, birds, and mammals from collections donated and housed in natural-setting dioramas. Movies about animals and interactive video displays present information on habitats and conservation.

Fun and funky, a good dinner bet is Mariscos Chihuahua, with incredibly fresh seafood rumored to be driven up from the Mexican Gulf daily, inexpensive prices, bright murals, and a pretty patio. Off the beaten track and more locals than tourist oriented, fish tacos should appeal to even the pickiest small diner, friendly service and tasty Margaritas will make mom and dad smile.

So forget about the heat, and check out Tucson in the summer – from a great swim plus sundaes at the Arizona Inn to sunset views that appear to be projected in Technicolor, Tucson’s the place.

Showing your children the night sky is something of a miracle. There’s the wonder of the sky itself, the vastness of the universe that you yourself may sometimes take for granted. There’s the eye-opening, round-mouthed joy of children taking it all in. There’s the pleasure of being family together there in the darkness. Unless your children have been raised in a rural environment, the lights of suburbs or city may well have dimmed the full glory of the night sky. It’s almost a parental right of passage to show your offspring what stars really look like for the first time.

That stargazing brings happiness, togetherness, and a sense of awe is undisputed; the real question is where you should go to do your stargazing. Naturally, you’ll want a dark sky, with as little light pollution as possible, but you won’t want a spot so remote you’ll have difficulty heading back to wherever you’re spending the night afterwards.

PLANETARIUMS

Before you set out on a journey to explore the real night sky, it’s a great idea to take children to a made-made variation. Planetariums are an excellent resource because they can impart, in an usually short and succinct fashion, information about what you’re going to be seeing in the sky. In Los Angeles, we have Griffith Observatory’s varied shows, supplemented by looks at the planets and space in exhibits throughout the observatory as well as by the ability to look through a large telescope at a planet or two. Even if you don’t live in a large city, many colleges, including community colleges, have astronomy programs. Small teaching planetariums are often open to the public periodically throughout the year. If you can’t visit an actual planetarium, there are star charts, star projections, and on-line star presentations that are all great for giving kids a short course – and refreshing your own knowledge – on what you’ll be seeing in the night sky.

OBSERVER’S INN

The wonderful Observer’s Inn, which I’ve mentioned in a full article on this site, is another place to teach the wonders of the night sky. Located in Julian, Calif., where the skies are themselves stellar for viewing, this bed and breakfast’s private observatory conducts “star tours” four nights a week. Owners Mike and Caroline Leigh include non-guests in these tours, which last a bit over an hour and include the ability to look through four research-grade telescopes.

LOWELL OBSERVATORY

The area around Flagstaff – where Lowell Observatory, one of the oldest in the nation, is based, offers great star gazing once you get away from town. Drive west on U.S. 40 and pull off at any farm road exit, douse the headlights, and get out of the car. There’s the Milky Way.

DEATH VALLEY

Death Valley also offers excellent star gazing. The parking lot at the sand dunes area near Stovepipe Wells is a comfortable spot to look up and take everything in. If you’re staying at Stovepipe you’ll be less than fifteen minutes from your motel; stay at Furnace Creek and its twenty-five. Closer to Furnace Creek but not so close that the ranch and motel lights obscure your view, the parking lot at Zabriskie Point is also a good spot.

RED ROCK CANYON

Los Angeles residents will often drive to Red Rock Canyon just past Lancaster on Highway 14 to star gaze; if the weather is clear – no beach fog – fairly dark family campgrounds like those at San Diego county’s San Onofre State Beach offer excellent sky viewing.

MOAB’S ARCHES NATIONAL PARK & SAND DUNE ARCH

In Utah, Moab’s Arches National Park is open twenty-four hours, and Sand Dune Arch is less than 0.3 miles from the parking lot. Yes, star gaze from the lot if you’d like, or at the lot near the Park Avenue rock formations. But for more intimate, stunning gazing with soft sand under foot, bring a flashlight and take the short flat trail to the arch.

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

Big Bend National Park in Texas is also big on stargazing. With over a hundred miles of open, paved road, there doesn’t need to be a particular spot to pull over and gaze up, but the Chisos Basin area is very accessible and has paved parking lots.

EAST COAST STARGAZING SPOTS

Heading east, upstate New York’s Lake George area often boasts clear skies and sharp stars. In Maine, The Penobscot Narrows Bridge offers vast views of the region, and when the weather is dry, equally grand views of the night sky. To the south, Kiawah Island, South Carolina has warm, dark beaches and relatively zero light pollution.

K’AU DISTRICT – HAWAII

Perhaps our family favorite night sky viewing took place on Hawaii’s Big Island in the K’au district at the tip of the island. Staying at one of our favorite bed and breakfast’s there, Kalaekilohana, we simply opened the french doors to our room, stood out on the balcony, and watched the sky unfold a few feet from our beds.

Wherever you go to look up into millions of light years, millions of stars – savor the view.

Highlands House Villa Roccosa – Photo from Highlands Houses

If you’ve ever read your child a fairy tale…

And your child loved the story…

Then a stay in one of the Highlands Houses rental properties just outside of Joshua Tree National Park is in order.

THE PARK

The park itself, of course, is like something from a fairy tale. It has wonderfully strange rock boulders that look like something the giant from Jack in the Beanstalk tossed into the desert. Then there are the trees themselves, with their branches lifted as if they were frozen angels, the strange fuzzy tops of cholla, and the red blossoms of ocotillo. With short nature trails abounding, including the delightful stroll through the Cholla Cactus Garden at the southern end of the park, and the loop trail near the visitor’s center at the 29 Palms entrance to the park, there are plenty of ways for you and even the youngest traveler to enjoy the park. My children have loved it for years, including special side trips to tour a near by orchid farm (yes, orchids in the desert!) and the outdoor found art exhibits of Noah Purifoy. Barker Dam is another child-friendly stop in the park, with a ranger led tour taking groups through a recreated ranch property, and a pleasant trail around the dam itself.

HIGHLANDS HOUSES

The landscape is stunning – photo Highlands Houses

Highlands Houses are four desert vacation rentals spread out over five acres, and perfect for a family trip. The delightful indoor-outdoor configuration of the homes includes magical-feeling design elements that would entrance any child. And they’re close to the park entrance, too.

Villa Roccosa is all about the rocks. It is a large, modern cabin with a stainless steel and concrete kitchen, cozy Murphy bed in the living room, and ample futon for one or two children in a niche adjoining the dining room. The big draw here is a pile of stunning rock boulders that seem to have spilled into the living room. The windows are placed in such a way that through them, visions of rock out-croppings, Joshua Trees, and sky are visible like an ever changing picture book. Children old enough to enjoy a dip in a hot tub – with temperature settings, allowing a milder climate than hotel hot tubs would allow – will enjoy the outdoor, family sized tub here. It’s a great spot to watch the moon rise or the sunset. Star gazing is great, too. Look up from a spot on a porch or a while soaking in that hot tub, and take in the constellations. Light pollution is practically non-existent, which makes this a great place to teach the kids about the North Star, or show them the wonders of the Milky Way.

Another great spot to star gaze, possibly the best of all, is a grouping of chairs and table off the patio, facing into the desert. A perfect breakfast spot, you’ll feel as if your dining room is in the middle of the desert – because it more or less is.

The kids will also love the little touches here, a small Buddha and Ganesha statues, a rabbit statue crouched beneath a bush.

If this isn’t the home for your clan, check out the Artist Retreat, which has an adjoining art studio; the brightly painted small cabin at Luna Mesa, and the 1800-square-foot Sky House, with two bedrooms and a jacuzzi on the patio. The latter property would make a great spot for a large family reunion.

Luna Mesa – Highlands House property – photo Highlands Houses

ACTIVITIES

Owner Frederick Fulmer can set up massage, pilates, rock climbing, child care, and yoga classes in the homes. With views all around, it’s more than possible to enjoy an entire weekend just staying at the property.

You’ll find great views and plenty of privacy, as well as the ability to take short, child-friendly hikes around the desert terrain in what is essentially your own back yard. And with the park itself just a few minutes drive away, short trips into the heart of the park to explore strange formations like Skull Rock or take a stroll around blossoming ocotillo are easy to accomplish. One of the biggest luxuries and best family-friendly attribute of these properties is the ability to take limited jaunts through the park and return to a relaxing home base with plenty of space for the kids to enjoy.

FOOD

What about food? Well, stocking up to cook in one of the homes’ stylish kitchens is easy with major name groceries just a few miles away in Yucca Valley. In the town of Joshua Tree itself, try a slice of delicious pie or an eggless egg salad sandwich at Natural Sisters. This vegan and vegetarian spot has plenty of child-pleasers from the tasty veggie burger to chocolate chip cookies. If the kids want pizza, that’s available in Joshua Tree, too.

In short, with the backdrop of Highlands Houses, creating a magical desert weekend that’s easy for the entire family to enjoy is surprisingly simple, and very relaxing. From moon-rise to sun-up there’s always something to see and do – or lean back and do nothing at all.

For more information visit www.joshuatreehighlandshouses.com

SETTING

La Casa del Zorro
photo courtesy of La Casa del Zorro

La Casa del Zorro has a marvelous setting right in the middle of the over 600,000 acre desert. Views of the towering Santa Rosa Mountains beckon guests to explore the park. A gentle nature trail near the park’s visitor’s center is perfect for small children, who will also enjoy a look at the flora and fauna of the region at the center. Older children will find a variety of hikes suited to the entire family, through canyons and mesas, to petroglyphs view points. Spring is the time of wild flowers; autumn will lure visitors to take a forty minute drive to the community of Julian, renowned for apple orchards and apple pie. The hotel will happily pack up a picnic lunch to go for families who explore the area. Flowering ocotillo cacti, mud caves, steep cliffs, and vistas of the vast, wide desert floor are in many cases viewable from the roadside or from the car. It’s a treat just to take a drive through the park. Bird watching opportunities also abound, older kids will enjoy counting some of the species in the region. Or drive south to the Salton Sea, not much for swimming, but a view of the vast, inland body of water is intriguing for kids. Also a drive-able distance away is Salvation Mountain, the late Leonard Knight’s tribute to spirituality, hand painted and designed with intricate colors and found art.

ACCOMMODATIONS

With nineteen multi-bedroom casitas, each with either a small pool or hot tub of their own, large families can feel right at home. Smaller groups can enjoy the forty-four large, modern, hacienda-style rooms with sitting areas, fireplace, porch or balcony, and walk in showers, grouped around swimming pools, lounging areas, and jacuzzis.

DINING

Dining options include the formal, yet family-friendly Butterfield dining room, the open-air Rose Garden Terrace, which makes a terrific lunch or breakfast spot, and the Cantina, which serves casual meals. From breakfast waffles or oatmeal to delicious grape gazpacho for dinner, the service and menu may be traditional and elegant, but the vibe is homey and comfortable, inviting kids and parents alike to relax. Live music is on tap Friday and Saturday nights, the cozy Fox Den Bar and Cantina charms with an antique mural over the bar that shows the Copley family, the first owners of the resort, depicted as foxes.

ONSITE ACTIVITIES & POOLS

La Casa del Zorro
photo courtesy of La Casa del Zorro

This is family nirvana, forty-three acres of aqua water, gorgeous sculptures created by local artist Ricardo Breceda, a rose garden, shuffle board, a giant chess set, and plenty of swimming pools. The main pool is incredibly child-friendly, offering beach balls, swim “noodles,” a shallow depth, and underwater lighting when it gets dark. There are lemon trees to dart between, a vast swimming pool – 80,000 gallons of water – and exercise room, and more intimate pools within each cluster of rooms, or attached to each private casita. Stroll the grounds to find signs whimsically pointing up to “stars,” a fire pit, natural landscaping.

For parents who want to check out the spa, sip a classic libation at the bar, or just doze in a private cabana undisturbed, the hotel has an option our kids adored: the Kids’ Camp. Designed for children ages five to eleven, snacks and lunch are provided in both a half and full-day experience that includes arts and crafts, swimming, treasure hunts, story-telling, and exploring the grounds. Discounts for siblings, too.

The other must do: looking up at the night sky. La Casa del Zorro is part of a dark-sky community; devoid of city lights, star gazing is stellar year ‘round.Just off Highway 79 north of Julian, you’ll find more of the fine work of metal sculptor Ricardo Breceda whose sculptures dot the La Casa Del Zorro property. His sculpture yard inside the Vail Lake Resort, offers a look at dinosaurs, rearing horses, dragons, and snakes. Kids adore these giant, brilliant pieces, some of which Breceda created for his own children. The personable artist is often on-site and available to speak to visitors. This is a do-not-miss stop going to or from the resort or as an adventure away from it.

Indolence warning: the luxurious yet friendly accommodations, delicious dining, and yes, those swimming pools and hot tubs – make it very hard to leave the property.

For more information visit www.lacasadelzorro.com.

Wellspring Ranch – photo – Wellspring Ranch

Wellspring Ranch is a beautiful organic farm owned by Jennifer and Richard Arfa, whose loving care and devotion to detail has resulted in one idyllic, pampered, yet rustic resort. The road up from Highway 1 is only partially paved, but worry not, any passenger car will do just fine on the hardpack dirt.

Inside a cozy and plush yurt at Wellspring Ranch – Photo- Jack Burke

ACCOMMODATIONS

The accommodations include a lodge, a converted barn, a sleek silver air stream trailer, and the yurts. Carpeted canvas enclaves, the yurts have a magical, fairy tail quality to them. Possibly best for families, the Jane Suite in the main lodge has two rooms. No matter where you stay, your family will enjoy hammocks, a self-serve yoga studio, the thrill of private outdoor showers (along with private, full indoor bathrooms), graceful trees, and great evenings star gazing.

DINING

Twice a week, the resort serves up delicious tapas at both a screened-in dining area and an outdoor dining spot with heat lamps and paving stones. The kids will love the crisp, house-made tortilla chips, fresh guacamole and salsa, delights like a four-cheese quesadilla or thick, rich posole. After dinner, there’s a fire pit, s’mores are set up and ready to go. There’s nothing better than not having to make the campfire to make the s’mores. Stump seating offers just the right angle to hold skewers of marshmallows and create the perfect outdoor dessert. Breakfasts are offered daily, and while adults may adore the house-made almond milk, or the delicious, organic, local fruit; the kids will go wild for dishes like French Toast with an ‘egg in the hole,’ or cashew nut pancakes with fresh syrup.

Making s’mores – Photo – Wellspring Ranch

RESORT ACTIVITIES

Calories can be burnt off walking the easy-for-all-ages fire road to stellar views of the sea; older kids will enjoy bike rentals along the same road. On the ranch itself, trails criss-cross streams, lead across meadows and up lush green hillside. Or settle in beside the koi pond, where pomegranate trees blossom, and resident cats and dogs offer friendly playtime. The epitome of rustic chic, the tall oaks, rose garden, clusters of lavender, olive trees, comfortable loungers all combine to create a restful, blissful family experience. The family will also love the living room yurt in the center of the compound, with gas fireplace, board games, books, and a skylight that offers a glimpse of the stars and trees. We spent hours on games like Scrabble and Trouble; rain pattering on the yurt’s taut canvas, the cozy fire warming the spot. Kids love that yurts are round – what child wouldn’t love a round house – so be prepared for pleas to make your own abode corner-less when you head home again.

OFF-SITE FUN & DINING

Should you actually leave the property – we found it difficult to tear ourselves away – good side trips include the town of Cayucos, with its flat, broad, long beach and Morro Rock view. If the weather’s warm for sunbathing and sand castles, or warm enough for a walk, along with Cayucos State Beach, there’s Morro Bay and San Simeon State Beach, as well as the golden cliffs and sandy trails of Montana Del Oro State park. If you are driving north, check out the enormous elephant seals at a preserve just north of San Simeon. An easy boardwalk viewing spot above the seal’s favored beach is perfect for small fry. Another worthwhile spot includes the small artist’s enclave of Harmony, once William Randolph Hearst’s dairy farm. The kids will love watching the glass blowers at work here on the weekend, or picking out an inexpensive pottery elephant at the pottery shop. It’s fun to drive into Cambria, north of Cayucos from the ranch via Old Creek Road, a tree-lined, quiet passage.

No visit is complete with a stop for an ice cream cone at Cayucos Candy Counter, the ice cream and candy shop at the base of the pier – which is presently being rebuilt from winter storms. Duckie’s, famous for clam chowder and fish and chips, is a fine stop for lunch, and Ocean Front Pizza’s thin crust offerings are perfect, inexpensive family fare. Casual Skippers has to-die-for onion rings and fries, and soft serve ice cream, too. The kids will enjoy a look at the dolphin statue at the pier, or a quick scramble over not one, but three playgrounds, including one near the pier.

For more information on Wellspring Ranch visit www.wellspringranch.com.

Driving Death Valley – photo – Genie Davis

It’s been awhile since my family and I visited Death Valley, and an equally long time since I’ve written about it here. Viewed in the fall, with still-warm days and star-filled nights, or the spring, when a riot of wildflowers burst out along the valley floor; viewed in winter when snow crusts the Panamints and a wicked wind is liable to spring up at night, or in the summer, when the heat keeps visitors in their cars until dusk or dawn, and the Furnace Creek Ranch resort pool beckons – it’s all good.

5,219 miles of national park serves up views and visits that are ever changing. For the kids, the uniqueness of the geology makes just about everything about a visit interesting.

HIGHLIGHTS

Why not start at the top? Dante’s View emerges from a narrow paved road about 5000-feet over the valley. The view is expansive, and the kids will enjoy seeing the salt flats of Badwater, the craggy peaks of the Panamint Range, the golden, undulating dune system. Coming back down, it’s time to take the unpaved but perfectly-okay-in-a-passenger car Twenty Mule Team Canyon road. A great look at the canyon up close is a fun contrast with the vast view at the top.

Zabriskie Point is just about finished with the rehabilitation of its trail and parking, and with a spring-time reopening, it’s a must-see. A closer view of the park’s scenery than observable from Dante’s View, the trail is easy enough for even small children to walk, and there are several benches along the way to sit and drink in the scenery.

The next stop for any family must surely be the way-below sea level Badwater. Let the kids loose on the salt flat, take the obligatory photo that indicates this part of the park is a whopping 282 feet below sea level. The salt flats crackle, the mineral-rich, foul-tasting water looks like a mirror, and the kids will be awed. Continue the experience with a drive through Artist’s Drive. The pastel palette is astonishing, and there are a number of easy stops for photos or to take a short stroll with a view.

ACCOMMODATIONS 

Staying at Furnace Creek Ranch, Xantera resorts’ family-friendly enclave in the park, has a number of advantages over staying outside the park. The wonderful, spring-fed, warm, and open-late swimming pool for one. With only minimal chlorine, the pool is constantly refreshed and heated to a delightful soaking temperature of around 82 degrees. Antique rail road cars, wagons, and mining equipment for the kids to explore for another. The large green oases that is the resort itself, with date palms, a well-equipped children’s playground, and tennis courts, and basketball court let the kids burn off steam in a comfortable environment. And of course, the resort is right in the park, so getting up for an early morning stroll on the Mesquite Flat sand dunes or heading out to hunt for pup fish at Salt Creek takes a minimal amount of time. An onsite gift shop and store is the perfect spot to claim a souvenir, a cold drink, or a candy bar.

DINING

Dining options include the Wrangler, a comfortable steak-house type experience that’s child-friendly and includes options other than steak, from fish to salad bar to risotto. At lunch, the dining room serves buffet-style. The 49er is more casual, and has great sandwiches and breakfast fare. In spring and fall, the ranch offers wagon rides around the property; live music often graces the porch outside the ranch’s mining museum.

MORE EXPERIENCES

Another gorgeous view – photo- Genie Davis

There are many options for experiencing the park, and you’ll know what suits your family best. Some will enjoy the guided tours of Scotty’s Castle, the mansion built on tall tales and a city-dwellers improved health in the desert air. Smaller children – and the whole family – will enjoy a trip to the sand dunes, to tumble down some soft sand, look for lizards, and write their names in the soft whiteness. Older kids will enjoy the scramble and vibrant rock colors and patterns along the Mosaic Canyon trail. The unearthly shapes at Devil’s Golf Course will enthrall, the deep pit of Ubehebe and Little Ubehebe Crater create the impression of being on the moon. If your car is equipped for rough roads – a four wheel drive vehicle with good clearance – driving out to see the rocks and flats of the descriptively apt Racetrack is a fun way to spend a morning or afternoon. In the cooler, evergreen Panamints, the beehive shaped Charcoal Kilns, once smelting ore for the Modock Mine, are a unique sight with a great echo.

Death Valley dunes late afternoon – photo – Genie Davis

If you head out to the west, make a stop at the Pannamint Resort for a hearty lunch and a view of the Panamint Valley; from the east, you’ll want to make a stop in Shoshone for a milk shake and grilled cheese at the tiny, quaint, Crowbar. A bit further afield, off Highway 395 heading to Los Angeles, there’s the refurbished ghost town of Randsburg, whose general store offers lunch, drinks, and souvenirs, and the old mining facades includes a one room jail house that kids always enjoy. Heading for I-15, the must-stop is the kitsch and baklava at the Mad Greek.

Interior of Deluxe Tent – Moab Under Canvas

The solution is “glamping,” a trend in accommodations that puts you out in the heart of nature’s beauty without having to pitch that tent or light that fire yourself. Older kids, teens, and adults will enjoy the camping experience without muss or fuss. Stargaze to your heart’s content, no one has to take down or pack up the tent tomorrow. Little ones will simply accept the idea of living in a beautiful, canvas walled room in the middle of a scenic view.

MOAB UNDER CANVAS – Moab, Utah

At Moab Under Canvas just outside Moab, Utah, everyone in the family will enjoy this 40-acre property just a stone’s throw down the road from Canyonlands National Park and less than ten minutes from the better known national park attraction, Arches.

Tipis

On the site, clusters of tipis equipped with cots, plus sleeping bags, and tables form the low-cost option for a night’s stay. Guests staying here will use clean, private group restroom facilities near the tents.

Deluxe Tent Cabins

While the tipis are cozy and comfortable, the true prize here are the Deluxe tent cabins. They are as spacious as a medium-sized hotel room and perched on a strong wooden floor with a porch. A number of these deluxe tents are configured even larger – as suites with sitting areas and sofa beds. For families with older children or simply large groups, tipis can be moved to adjoin the tent cabins, giving kids their own private space while mom and dad are close by. All deluxe options feature king or twin beds with plush linens. For chilly nights, there’s a wood-burning stove and the wood to stock it. In-tent bathrooms are nestled behind a canvas curtain, but are fully equipped with a flush toilet, shower, and sink. The beds are comfortable, the wooden floor smooth to bare feet, attractive Ikea-style dressers and coat racks abound. Goodbye late night treks to a chemical toilet.

Amenities

As welcoming as all the amenities are, the porch is truly the best. Whether you’re up for the sunrise or watching the Milky Way and the trajectory of the moon, the porch is the perfect place to observe. It’s also a great spot for breakfast, which can be ordered a night ahead from a local café in town and delivered to the office on site. So can lunches to go; and while we took our own tours and hikes in the national parks, Under Canvas offers guided sunset hikes and other excursions for guests.

And about that office: it’s open twenty-four hours, features charging stations for cell phones and computers as there’s no electricity in the tent cabins or tipis, and has friendly staff members who are on call all night. There’s hot tea, coffee, and cocoa available, and plenty of cold water too. Need a crib for a tot or extra blankets? Someone’s there to provide it at any hour.

Moab Under Canvas

At night, staff members set a large bonfire in a fire ring near the office, making s’mores a no-brainer. Metal roasting forks also provided. It’s a great spot to hang out and talk with other guests, too.

In short: kids who love camping will love it even more at this Utah spot with a view of red rocks and vast desert. Adults who may be waffling on the whole sleep-in-a-tent thing need waffle no more.

Family Property

We stayed at the Wyndham, which is a time share resort. Yes, they do try to entice you into listening to a presentation about the property with the promise of a gas card or American Express card and breakfast; but there’s no reason to comply, unless you want that credit card. A quiet setting with a nicely uncrowded pool that tops off at 5 feet deep, one of the best things about this property was having a full kitchen and a washer-dryer. The two-bedroom suite is big enough for any family; small balconies offer slices of the dramatic views that you’ve probably come here to enjoy. If you decide to make a meal or two, several national chain groceries – including a Whole Foods – is just down the road.

Sunset Watch

The hotel is close to one of the premiere attractions in Sedona: a spectacular sunset. At Airport Mesa just a few minutes away, there’s ample, flat viewing space to see the sun kiss and set below red rock hills – yes, there’s the color red again. One of the most popular viewing spots at twilight, there’s still plenty of room to stand and gawk; a jubilant mood and easy just-across-the road parking makes this a good family spot. If the kids are a little older, take them out to Crescent Moon Red Rock Crossing which boasts a view of the famous Cathedral Rock as red as a burning ember in the last of the sunlight.

Grand Views

During the day, Boynton Canyon offers several easy and appealing hikes, including Vista Point, where the trail meanders pleasantly along a sandy path before a bit of mild rock scrambling to get to the vista. Parents of very small children may want to carry or strap them in to carriers, but it’s doable and lovely. You get a sense of the desert vastness and a grand view of monuments and valleys. The Chapel of the Holy Cross also gives a stellar view, and this architectural wonder is nestled so firmly in the rocks that it seems to have sprung right out of them.

You can’t visit Sedona without hearing about its energy vortexes, reputed to provide health benefits and Zen moments. Two of the most famous are also a part of incredible views and great climbs:  Bell Rock and Cathedral Rock. Cathedral is challenging to all but the most intrepid of climbers, not a spot for young children unless sure-footed parents don’t mind carrying them along for the ride.  Bell offers an easier trail to the top. But even from the base of these gorgeous rock formations there is plenty to see, and kids will be fascinated by finding the vortexes – a sort of cosmic energy treasure hunt – as well as being captivated by the idea that they exist. Do they? Up to you to decide, but we certainly felt more positive and relaxed after a few days exploring them.

We took a hike about a third of the way up Cathedral Rock, to the point where the trail can be challenging for kids. From this cairn-guided stopping point, we nonetheless had a sweeping view of other rock formations, all a rich red in the sunlight, so picture-perfect against blue sky you’d think you’d imagined it, except for the climb back down.

If you’re not into hikes or even strolls, a cruise along Oak Creek in the car is one option, and a pleasant way to enjoy the red rock views and tree lined canyons. Another option:  jeep tours. A variety of jeep tour options abound in Sedona, and offer a great way to bounce pleasantly along the back-country and rocky trails without hiking. If you do stay at Wyndham, and you do get the sales pitch, discounts on jeep tours are also offered, along with the credit card incentive.

Beyond the Rocks

Looking for something more civilized? Then take the kids to the shops and galleries of Tlaquepaque, a graceful, tree shaded Spanish colonial-style shopping plaza. There are over forty shops; galleries feature locally produced art. Also on site is the Oak Creek Brewery, offering up cold micro-brews for parents and a bright, pleasant dining room. Kids will enjoy burgers, ample cheese and fruit plates, and sweet desserts. If you’re after some kid-friendly souvenirs, check out Mother Nature’s Trading Co. with eclectic kids’ items and objects of art.

A good spot for dinner is Javalina, inexpensive and tasty Mexican food served up both on a commodious patio overlooking outdoor sculptures and indoors. See if the kids can spot the miniature javalina in the fountain off the patio; don’t miss the crispy fish tacos.

Just outside of town, Slide Rock State Park is a place not to miss in warm weather. The park’s name comes from a natural water slide created from, what else, slippery rocks in Oak Creek. A great place for water splashing fun, above it are grand and rocky views, and alongside are lovely, shady trees. The park also includes a working apple farm, which, in autumn, provides yet another type of Sedona red.

The beautiful and historic La Posada Hotel

Do the kids know the Jackson Browne penned song the Eagles made famous, “Take it Easy?” If not, it’s time they learned the tune and you took them to Winslow, Arizona, for a visit to the Standin’ on the Corner Park which pays tribute to the song, and the profoundly awesome La Posada hotel.

The park itself is small but a lot of fun. There’s the life-size statue of the boy standing on that corner, there’s a flatbed Ford, too. Across the street are souvenir shops and a small Mexican eaterie, and sure enough the sleepy town is poised on the brink of becoming an artist enclave, with small galleries and workshops to explore. But it’s La Posada that will win the heart of any child or adult – age is no limit to appreciate the pleasures this venerable hotel has to offer.

But if the kids like fairytales they will like this one. On the brink of ruin, now owners Allan Affeldt and Tina Minion fell in love La Posada in 1997. Since then they’ve worked hard to recreate the 53 room hotel. Adults will love the copious art and southwest luxe ambiance. The kids will love that too. And so much more. Large gardens sprawl around the hotel, and then of course guests of all ages will enjoy sitting on a bench or strolling across the emerald back lawn to watch the trains come trundling down the tracks.

Don’t worry about the noise. Yes, there are a few rooms you can request if you are a train buff, where you can view the trains from your window. Even at that, this hotel was built with acoustic perfection, we never heard the trains roll by in the night. But when you want to hear and see them, just find a spot out back to train gaze or star gaze. There may be nothing quite like watching trains for family fun and togetherness and a peculiar kind of delightful clickety-clack zen.

La Posada by night – Photo – Jack Burke

ON-SITE ACTIVITIES & ENTERTAINMENT

There’s more to explore, too. A hay bale maze is designed to enchant the little ones. There’s a sunken garden and lovely fountains. The very reasonably priced rooms are each unique, homey in a Southwestern way with stylish wood pieces and tin mirrors. There’s a vast great room with plenty of games and books for more hours of family fun. Take the tots in hand and explore sculptures of horses, a spiral stair case, and grand murals.

And be sure to dine in the hotel at the stellar Turquoise Room, offering three meals a day with recipes exotic and interesting enough to fill the most contentious gourmet with satisfaction, and dishes easy enough on the palette to make your child – like mine – ask for more.

Chef John Sharpe offers meals that are organic and locally sourced, including the Killer Vegetable Platter that makes even carnivores quiver with delight. Fresh fish, rich chocolate-y deserts, soups and cheeses are all aspects of the dinner menu. Breakfast finds omelettes, pancakes, waffles – all perfectly prepared.

Kids will enjoy the plethora of jewelry, trinkets, kachinas, and postcards in the large gift shop too.

In the evenings, you’ll often find a flamenco guitarist holding forth outside the dining area, and there’s plenty of room for the kids to take a spin around the “dance floor” of lovingly polished tiles.

OFF-SITE FUN

Looking outside the hotel for fun? Less than fifteen minutes away is the Meteor Crater, a 550 foot chasm that includes a tourist-centric but fun film about the crater’s history, great views of the crater from several angles – including a playfully staged cutout of a minute looking human below. There are petroglyphs, Native American archeological sites, a kitschy collection of geode shops including one adorned with enormous and child-pleasing plaster dinosaurs all within a thirty minute drive. If the kids are clamoring for a snack, there’s a Sonic Drive-In at the edge of Winslow, and every once in awhile it’s hard to beat the chain’s “Happy Hour” for half priced drinks like fresh strawberry soda or a chocolate Coke.

An hour away, you’ll find the National Park treasures of the Petrified Forest and the Painted Desert, which we also explored, but that’s a different story.

Take the kids on a trip to a grand hotel of the past and a brilliantly accommodating one of the present. Let Amtrak drop you at the doorstep, or drive from Phoenix, Flagstaff, Vegas, or LA. It’s a journey everyone in the family will cherish.